From 00765487d209b690636e5fb4ed9097d17e3b854a Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: mariannebautista Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2021 16:48:01 -0700 Subject: [PATCH 01/15] Create volume4 --- diary-volumes/volume4 | 43 +++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ 1 file changed, 43 insertions(+) create mode 100644 diary-volumes/volume4 diff --git a/diary-volumes/volume4 b/diary-volumes/volume4 new file mode 100644 index 000000000..854888b8a --- /dev/null +++ b/diary-volumes/volume4 @@ -0,0 +1,43 @@ + + + + + + Diary of Mrs. Emma B. Andrews. Volume 4 1896-1897 + + Emma B. Andrews + + + Sarah Ketchley + + + + + Emma B. Andrews Diary Project + +
+ University of Washington, Seattle, WA +
+ + his work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial Share-Alike 4.0 International License. + + 2021-07-28 + + +

American Philosophical Society, Philadelphia

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Established in 2010, the goals of the Emma B. Andrews Diary Project include the transcription and digitization of a wide range of primary historical material from the 'Golden Age' of Egyptian archaeology at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. A founding partner of Newbook Digital Texts (www.newbookdigitaltexts.org), the EBA Diary Project offers undergraduate and graduate digital humanities education and internships at the University of Washington. Emma B. Andrews is best remembered for her association with the millionaire lawyer turned archaeologist/art and antiquities collector, Theodore M. Davis. Traveling to Egypt with him between 1889 and 1912, she kept detailed journals of these voyages along the Nile, including his important yet under-reported excavations of over 20 significant tombs in the Valley of the Kings. Emma provides a vital commentary on the archaeology and pioneering Egyptologists of the time, painting a revealing picture of the lives of the colonial gentry and the cultural and scientific literati in at the dawn of the twentieth century. Analysis of the content of her diaries, along with a broad range of additional primary source material, will afford scholars information about important historical resources for the first time.

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PAGE 73 S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896 We sailed at 10 o'clock on Saturday the 14th - Mr. Convers, Mr. Luling and Mr. Jevons were down to see us off. A cold bright morning - and the cold lasted until yesterday - everyone congealed - but we are now in warmer waters - and constant sunshine - I have a large bright room - at a table in which I am writing. The sun looks into my port by day, and the moon by night -for we have fortunately fallen upon the second quarter of the moon. The last thing I do, after having turned out the light at night, is to climb up on the sofa, and take a look at the night, and the wide waste: of blue black water, in which our ship makes its great furrow of dashing white foam - what a beautiful immensity it is, and a grand picture to carry into the oblivion of the night. There are comparatively few passangers - and I have never known such pleasant ones. The Hamilton Fisks of New York - Dr. Doty, the Health Officer of the N. Y. Port, Mrs. Ward Howe Elliot, the daughter of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe - and a Mr. Pratt - now American Consul General at Singapore, and for five years our Minister to Persia - a really cultivated man. We all have tea together in the afternoon, and make very merry - and we have Mrs. Bend of New York and her two daughters at our table. I asked Mr. Pratt how long Benjamin, former Minister to Persia, had lived in that country, and he said 3 years. I said that was rather a short time acquaintance with a country about which to write an exhaustive work. He tole me Benjamin had given great offence to the Shela, and others in his book - and that he had seen absolutely nothing of parts of Persia about which he writes. PAGE 74 Nov. 27. We will reach Genoa in a few hours, and I will gladly say au revoir to the sea for 3 or 4 days. It is very cold this morning, but clear. Until we reached Gibraltar our beautiful balmy weather lasted. We passed the Azoros on the 20th - running very close to the large island of San Miguel - very picturesque with its background of mountains, and the steep slopes, some of them quite cultivated to the top - its pleasant looking houses and villages - and the miles of low grass houses, where immense quantities of pineapples are cultivated. On Monday morning the 23d we reached Gibraltar, and went ashore, despite of some threatening clouds. We took Beatrice Bend in our carriage and went as far as Europa Point, but before we again reached the town, rain began to fall, and there was nothing to do but stop at the wretched Hotel Royal, and wait until it was time to go back to the steamer - and there we waited staring out on the same little square where I spent so many hours doing the same thing two years ago. Theodore went out and bought 3 umbrellas - a pair of overshoes for me, and 3 yards of macintosh cloth for us to sit upon on the wet, unprotected decks of the little tender. From that time until last night the gale has raged - and 3 miserable nights have I spent and 2 days in my forward cabin, tossed up and down. Yesterday morning early the 26, we dropped our anchor in the bay of Naples - and in spite of some rain and a high wind, I went ashore with the rest, and spent a pleasant day. The two Bend girls we took immediately to the Grand Hotel, and found pleasant rooms for them, and by the time Mrs. Bend arrived from the PAGE 75 Custom House, we had ordered luncheon, and made a short visit to the Aquarium. How good that lunch was, and how good the stable land was! Then we said goodbye to our friends, and started back to the steamer - stopping a few moments at Squadriblis to buy some shell things. We have had a quiet night, and are running smoothly this morning. S.S. Freiderick der Grosser. near Port Said. Dec. 6 I am so thankful that this long voyage has almost come to an end - and that we will arrive at Port Said early tomorrow morning - we reached Genoa on the 27 Nov. just too late to catch the only train to Florence at noon - and after a slight delay at the Custom House, made a long journey through the streets of the town to the "Hotel du Pare" a rather attractive looking ancient Villa standing in large grounds with trees, which might be cheerful on a summers day, but on that chill afternoon, dripping with rain, was truly disconsolate. The palatial rooms and halls, with their tiny fires and enormous windows shaking and rattling in the gale, made us thankful we were only going to stop for the night. The next day we were off for Florence at 12 o'clock - which we reached at 7 P.M. - a weary ride - slow and rough, through never ending tunnels. The girls and Hassan were waiting for us, and went with us to the Grande Bretagne, where we were installed in our old appartment. Florence the next day was cold, but bright. I spent the Sunday morning with Mary shopping - I found her chattering Italian like a native. Theodore and Nettie went to the Uffizzi - PAGE 76 Clarence and Jones to do as much of the town as they could. Lizzie and both girls came to breakfast, and the girls stopped to lunch - after which a drive to Fiesole, and the rest of the time with Lizzie in their pretty little appartment, 2 Via Venezia, and then all came home with us to dinner. Berenson also came to dinner, looking very well. The next day we were off to Genoa again, with Mary along and went for the night to the "Hotel Isotta", much more comfortable than the other. At 2 o'clock the next day we went out to the Frederick the Great - and after enormous trouble and anxiety, through the insufficiency and want of order of the North German Lloyd Co. we succeeded at last in getting all our 30 pieces of luggage out of the Custom House and aboard the steamer - and sailed about 5 o'clock the next morning for Naples. We found the steamer very pleasant, but rather durious in her arrangement. Large as she is she only carries 120 first class passengers - but she carries enormous freight to Australia - her decks are charming - the service and the food very poor. Reached Naples the next morning - rain pouring - everyone else went ashore - I stayed at home - Dr. Peabody and family, Mr. Pratt and Dr. Doty arrived in the afternoon. So did the Kaiser Wilhelm, just from New York, a week later than ourselves. We were at last off on the home stretch for Egypt at 6 P.M. Since then the weather has been bad, and heavy seas until today - which is lovely. In my room during most of the voyage from Genoa. PAGE 77 Shepheards Hotel. Cairo. Dec. 9 - 96 We arrived day before yesterday the 7th at 6 P.M. and took possession of our pleasant old appartment facing the street no. 120 et suite. On the evening of the 6th we passed the Damietta light, and the ship steamed slowly and almost imperceptibly along until she dropped anchor at Port Said about 2 o'clock A.M. There was but little sleep to be had - what with the coaling, the babbling and shrieking outside, and the stir inside - and as the night was warm, and all the doors and ports closed because of the coaling, sleep was far from every one. At 6 o'clock Amilie came to call me, and I was glad to give up the struggle and get up. We had little trouble at the Custom House, and were soon in a clean and very comfortable railway carriage for Ismailia, where we got an excellent lunch at the new hotel established lately by Shepheards, and waited for the Cairo train. We find Shepheards practically empty - and this season is to be a bad one for Egypt I fear. The next morning we had a grand disappointment in finding that our boat was a month behind time - painters and carpenters still at work - the boom not raised, and general helplessness. The English foreman of Thubron is quite ineffectual - and Thubron has shown gross negligence and carelessness. Instead of the boat ready, and in sailing order for the 1st of Dec. as the contract calls for - Thubron has evidently given his whole attention to building gunboats up the river. He has been at Dongola for 3 months - and has allowed the Beduin to care for herself. Theodore with admirable patience made PAGE 78 himself master of facts through the dire confusion of falsehoods and incompetency, and then he went for Thubron and his foreman, with such well directed effort and so much energetic talking, that the foreman is scared out of his life, and the workmen are jumping about like monkeys. I am busy all the time now with an hundred practical details. Sunday, Dec. 13. Mary and Clarence have gone off in the carriage with Salah to see the Tombs of the Mameluks and the Khalifs - Theodore, Dr. Doty and Dr. Peabody, have gone on donkeys to see the dahabeah. We go every day to the boat to watch and direct its progress - and we hope to be able to get off by the 1st of January. The great trouble now is that the furniture was not shipped from England until the 6th of Dec.! We have engaged our old cook Hanna - poor Selim having died here not more than a month ago - Hanna speaks no French or English, but as we have engaged a very promising young Nubian as waiter whom Salah knows very well, and who has lived for years in England, we can get on very well. Ibrahim too is engaged as 2d man and laundress - and my Mohammed Ibrahim is going in no capacity that I can think of, except to learn more English, and if he can, to wait and do domestic work. It is impossible now to tell how much English he knows, as he is so shy and frightened when he trys to speak. Theodore gave a dinner last night, and had Dr. Sandwith and Peabody and Doty. Theodore and I had a delicious drive yesterday in the afternoon to the Ghezireh Palace, and walked about the shady avenues PAGE 79 and among the flowers - stopping to return the visit of Dr. Sandwith and Mrs. Sandwith on our way home. Ghesireh Palace Hotel. Dec. 27. We left Shepheards this morning and came over here, to escape the smells and noise of Cairo and are so enchanted with the delicious air and space - our rooms are really palatial - and look out on the beautiful garden - and the sitting room opens on a balcony, which the present hot weather makes quite delightful. The sun was so hot this afternoon that the awning was necessary. The house is practically empty - and it is so enormous, that only in the evening after dinner, when everyone congregated in the big hall, that there seems to be anyone here. We are so busy, trying to help along the boat - and there are so many vexatious delays, that our patience is fairly exhausted. I am amazed at Theodore's apparent patience with Thubron and his unprincipled inefficiency. I have never been so long in Cairo before - and I think I am tired of it - if not of Cairo, certainly of the life of hotels - and the dreary people. It is nice to see the interest and enjoyment of Clarence and Mary in everything. I am well - and quite free from cold for the first time in Cairo. Jan. 3. Second Sunday after Christmas. Still waiting impatiently to get off - some progress has been made during the past week to be sure. The obscure and troublesome - PAGE 80 Jan. 9th - what I intended saying when I began that last sentence, quite a week ago, I have now not the faintest idea. Each day since has been so busy, with tiresome occupations, driving down to the dahabeah through that squalid Boulak-Ramleh quarter - until I am fairly sick with the sight of so much misery that no one can relieve. The long delayed furniture came yesterday - and with much trepidation I saw it unpacked, and if my worst fears were not realized, there were enough disappointments to make it almost unbearable. Chairs too large for the rooms - everything a little too big, or a little too small - the side board entirely forgotten - and I had to get into the carriage with Thubron, and drive to 3 different furniture places before I found a little second hand buffet that freshened and polished, will answer for this winter - then I bought finger bowls, caraffes - liqeur glasses - candlesticks - match boxes - soap dishes etc. etc. etc. Still with all these drawbacks the Beduin is so comfortable and so convenient and pretty, that we are thoroughly happy that on Monday morning we will take possession of her, and at last start up the river. We have had real Cairo winter weather for 10 days - high winds, clouds, occasional sharp rains. These things would not be unbearable - were it not for the discomfort of indoors in such weather. We would never think it possible at home to sit in a room where the thermometer stood at 62° only. But my thermometer has been just there for several days. There is in each of our big rooms, a tiny, ornamented accidental fireplace, between two of the big windows - these are strictly ornamental, and are almost hidden by the magnificent satin draperies of the windows. But two or PAGE 81 three days ago when the wind was high and cold, I asked the waiter if we could have a fire, and it was made, much to the cost of our comfort, for the only draught was out into the room - and if the fuel had been anything but charcoal, the consequences might have been disastrous - as it was, all the wooden mantle was scorched, and the windows had to be opened to clear the room. We learned afterwards that there were no openings at the top to these chimneys - so that the fireplaces were purely pieces of ornamental furniture. Dahabeah "Beduin". Monday, Jan. 11. 1897. We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to Bedrasheen, where we are now lying. Mary and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the Beduin, under convoy of the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o'clock. Just as we reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our "Beduin" stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her go by - and I heard her pronounced the "handsomest craft on the river". Immediately after lunch, when poor Theodore had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us, until we came down. In the midst of it, Mrs. and Miss Taylor arrived for a parting visit. Then there was the "debbil to pay" as dear old Salah would say, as Theodore PAGE 82 discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as Assiut; they had no food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt blessing from us all to the impossible Thubron, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are happy, if not yet in order. Jan. 12. We have made about 18 miles - and are somewhere between Bedreschein and Wasta. The tug proves a worthless thing. She can make about 2 miles with us, an hour, without any assistance from us - but if we have a wind that at all fills our sails, we sail right on to her and she has to cast off. Various "désagrémens" have developed themselves, the most important of which is old Henna, our cook, who was with us for 2 winters on the Herodotus has taken fright at the range in his kitchen, and thinks he can do nothing with it, although he makes much better bread with it, than I have ever known him do before. And, we greatly need the forgotten sideboard - and many rather necessary things have been overlooked. However, we are so pretty and convenient, that we are quite ashamed of ourselves in complaining of anything. My room is entirely charming - and so are all the bedrooms in their pretty chintzs and simple fittings - and the saloon would be a charming interior anywhere - with its Morris green brocades and art fabrics. Then the big upper deck is entirely perfection, with its pretty rugs, its big brown PAGE 83 wicker hooded chairs and easy chairs, with their bright yellow and black cushions and pillows in bandana stuffs. But best of all, the Beduin has proved a rattling good sailor, and there can be no happier man on earth than our Rais Fuli, who for the first time in his life is 1st Captain. He has been twice with us as 2d Captain and we have always said he should be captain of our dahabeah when it was built. He is such a fine specimen of a calm, serene Mohammedan, and has a gentle personal dignity I have never seen equalled. He is a Nubian, knows the river thoroughly, and we could trust him with everything we have. The boat will now be his house summer as well as winter - and he will get ￡3. a month and during the summer feed himself - I think I am as pleased as he is. He has chosen an admirable crew - I never saw so good a one on the Nile - and in their brown cardigans with "Beduin" in blue letters across the breast, they look very well. Jan. 13. Made 23 miles - are now lying near Wasta - day calm, with some head wind - heavy storm of wind during the night - very busy settling. Jan. 14. Beautiful warm weather - though my self-registering barometer on my little verandah went down to 40° during the night. Passed Benisoef about noon - ran until 8 o'clock this evening, - made 23 miles today. PAGE 84 Jan. 15th. A long run today - starting at 6 A.M. and bringing up at 7 o'clock P.M. within 3 miles of Golasseheh - busy all day - made 57 miles. Jan. 16. I wakened before it was light this morning and heard the rippling of the water that showed how fast we were slipping along - but, a little after 7 o'clock we ran into a dense fog - I never saw such a sight before on the Nile - and we pulled up awhile until the hot sun had dissipated it. We passed Minieh at 11 o'clock - and Beni Hassan this afternoon and are now lying at Rhodah having made 51 miles. Some high wind today from the right quarter - and we have had to cast the tug off, but the wind has been fitful. Have passed such lovely palm fringed shores. This morning the usual begging saint from Der el-Tayr, or Mountain of the Bird, swam out to us - and demanded the usual toll. The boat is now in perfect order - and I am now resting from my labors. Thermometer registered last night 45° and today at 2 o'clock 72°. I had my little stove lighted and brought into my room for the first time this morning. Jan. 17. Second Sunday after Epiphany. We have only made 20 miles today. There has been but little wind, and what there was, from the wrong quarter. Something was the matter with the tug, and we had to stop for 3 hours to have her tickered. PAGE 85 We are now within 4 miles of Gebel Abou Fedah - day has been overcast, and a little cool. Thermometer last night 42° - today 72°. A remarkable sunset - really the most wonderful and gorgeous in its beauty I ever saw. Jan. 18. A very disappointing day. Thubrons wretched little tug has given out entirely, and been abandoned by us. The Engineer reported early this morning a leak in the boiler - but as that has been the case for several days, it seemed to be no reason that we should not go on in the same slow way. So Theodore went aboard the tug - found that the engineer in order to "see in the boiler" as he said, had taken off the cylinder head, and then found a loose nut kicking about somewhere, and said if he moved their lives would be in danger. There was nothing to do but to leave her, which we did, declining to give the man 2 oars as he wished us to do, to paddle back to Cairo. Day warm and beautiful - sailed for nearly 2 hours in a very light wind and think we have made about 10 miles. On deck until nearly 7 o'clock, watching the radiant moon-rise and the colors on the Gebel Abu-Fedah chain. Jan. 19. We began tracking a little after seven o'clock this morning - a very little south wind made it hard work for our poor fellows - but in spite of it, we have made 9 or 10 miles. The English dahabeah Thames passed us in tow about dark. Our people inquired about our tug, and PAGE 86 they answered they had passed her near Hager Kandil, floating down to Cairo. A pleasant little walk this A.M. along the banks of the Bar Jusef canal - larks singing - wheat to my knees. Jan. 20. A trying day as far as getting on - warm, still and a haze that about noon assumed a rather threatening look. Our fellows have tracked and pulled to the anchor - and in this fashion we have been creeping past the Abu Fedah cliffs this afternoon. A strong north wind sprang up and helped us along, though the weather was so threatening we did not dare hoist a sail. About 6 o'clock the gale broke upon us - but no rain, and we are safely tied up for the night under the lee of a high bank. The air has cleared and the moon shows faintly from a veil of light clouds. Jan. 21. We began sailing at 8 o'clock this morning with a strong north wind - and the Beduin had her first good opportunity to test her true sailing qualities. She behaved splendidly to the great delight of her Captain and her crew, to say nothing of her owner. She sailed on the wind in so fine a fashion, that the crew were enthusiastic. I found the wind too strong on deck, and went below to the entrance deck, where I stood sometime watching the sailors, who were laughing and cheering apostrophising the wind - then the boat - then shaking hands in congratulation. We careered and made more motion than I have ever felt on the PAGE 87 Nile.- but then we had never sailed like that in such a wind before. In the midst of our triumphal progress in making a difficult bend of the river we came in collision with a working or ferry boat, anchored just at the point. Her boom scraped our sides a little to the great distress of Rais Fuli - but no real harm done. In swinging round to avoid as much as possible the shock of the contact, we went aground on the sand - and it was 3 hours before we got off, so that we did not reach Assiut until after 5 P.M. - too late to go into the town - Theodore, Clarence and Jones set off for the P.O. We found waiting for us, the 2 tables from Hatoun's for which we had written - and the box of table linen from Paris. The "Thames" lying opposite Assiut. We made about 30 miles today. Jan. 22. Mary and I took Abdul this morning, and rowed down to the town, and took a carriage there. We made a few little purchases - drove through the bazaars, to the imminent risk it seemed to me of the lives of everybody there - certainly to their great discomfort. These carriages are an innovation. I have never seen them before. In trying to find some flower pots, I came across a young Egyptian in European dress, who got into the carriage with us, and took us to his garden, where he gave us everything that was in bloom, which was not much, as the gardens are at this season practically dead as to flowers. Among other things he gave us 2 remarkable fruits I had never seen before, which he called "Kishta" or cream. It seems it is an imported delicacy PAGE 88 from the West Indies - the Anona squamosa. I got my pots - but we were not allowed to pay for anything - our young host being an amateur gardiner, and as polite and kind as he could be. After many thanks, we left him and came home, it being too late to go to the American College as I had intended, to inquire about the 2 American women doctors who have lately arrived and about whom I wish to know something. There was no wind to get away - in the afternoon the "Ramesis the Great" from up the river, and the "Ramesis" from Cairo arrived, and were near us. On the former were the Case family from Boston, people who were on the Gens, and whom Theodore knew. They came aboard to see the Beduin. An evening of wonderful beauty and color - with a late full moon rising over the placid water. There are splendid trees - palms and scents all about Assiut. Jan. 23d. We are still in sight of Assiut - though we have made 5 miles by tracking and pulling to the anchor - the wind when there was any, being dead ahead. Mary and I have been spending the afternoon on my pleasant little verandah - reading and working. Jan. 24. Third Sunday after Epiphany. A day of almost perfect calm - by tracking and polling and using the occasional little puffs of wind, we have made 15 miles. Such beautiful opalescent effects all day - the whole world done in pearly, pink, gray heat. PAGE 89 Jan. 25. Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o'clock the wind came up, and we got about an hour's sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking and poling, brought us within 10 miles of Tahtah - making 12 miles altogether. The Mena, flying the English flag - and the Elephantine flying the French flag, passed us today - and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°. Jan. 26. A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are tonight 5 miles from Sohag - passed Tahtah at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and exhilerating, that seems to renew one's life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their animals before them, or dragging them PAGE 90 after. It is no unusual thing to see donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing 3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a time. Jan. 27. Started this morning in a strong wind and came to Sohag just as breakfast was ready. Most of the male population of this good looking thriving town were ranged along the bank above us - we had to stop for mail and butter, which took about an hour - and in the mean time we bought some of the bright Akmim cloths which a merchant was displaying on the bank. They used to be made in Akmim, but I suspect they more often now, come from Birmingham, England. The river here makes a very bad turn, and north and south seem to change places. We came to grief here once before in the Herodotus - and again this morning, our delay of an hour resulted in staying all day near Sohag - for the strong wind at last found us on shore about 2 miles above the town - and opposite Akmim. The wind blew a hurricane all day - and all windows and doors had to be closed to keep out the driving fine sand. Towards evening we pulled to the anchor across the river near Akmim - and would rather have been above than below the town - as the cholera raged at this place during the summer. Made 9 miles. Jan. 28. We have made 35 miles today - beginning at 6:30 o'clock with a PAGE 91 fair wind that grew so strong we had to lie by at Balliana for more than 2 hours. Jan. 29. With the exception of Jan. 15, we have made today our best record - 49 miles - and are lying tonight near Keneh. Passed the Philetus - like a dream. Jan. 30. A good wind this morning then sailed and tracked until we tied up for the night, having made 32 miles. Jan. 31. Luxor. Fourth Sunday after Epiphany. We made the intervening 12 miles between our landing place of last night and Luxor at 4:30 - having had a variable light wind all day - sometimes no wind, when we tracked and poled. About 11 o'clock, we descried the streamer of a dahabieh in the distance - then her sails, and the sails of 3 more - to our great delight as we have been thirsting for a foe worthy of our steel. We crept slowly along towards them, making Luxor the same time as the Manhattan, and just behind the Zenet-el Nil, the Sesostris and the Ammon Ra - in front of which last we tied up, just below the Castle. The rest went into the town, and I stayed to enjoy the quiet of our dahabeah and our beautiful deck - and the wonders of the setting sun - and the shadows creeping over the mountains. Heaps of letters and newspapers. PAGE 92 Feb. 3. Luxor. We have had a tremendously high wind for 2 days - yesterday neither Mary nor I stirred from the boat. Although protected by the high bank, we were really buffetted about and the waves race high - everything was kept closed - doors, windows, screens and tambooshes - but in spite of all the dust penetrated everywhere - though to a much less degree than in any other boat I have been on. Across the river, the sand obscured the sight of the mountains at times - and I was sorry for the Cookites, who were swarming on the sands, starting for their various excursions - for 2 or 3 steamers are in - and of course their passengers cannot wait for more favorable weather. Mary and I this morning climbed up the high bank, with the intention of walking back into the country - but our skirts blew over our heads, our hats off our heads - and our eyes were blinded with sand - so that we soon gave up the contest and came home, glad to finish our walk on the sheltered deck. Salah came to see us soon after our arrival, very proud of us, and of our sailing record. He is almost willing to let us beat his Zenet-el Nil -M. Goleinschief's boat, of which he has charge. Old Mohammed Mohassib also came one evening - excessively pleased - and we presented our little gifts to him. Theodore reports Karnak in the hands of the Excavation Society - I have not yet seen it. Mr. Baldwin who is on the Ammon-Ra, with his wife, and son-in-law, Dr. Grinell - was here today. Mrs. Baldwin is very wretched since she came on the river. They want us to start for Assouan when they do. The Fell party on the Zenet-el-Fil go back to Cairo from here - much to Salah's PAGE 93 disgust. This morning we had a visit from Rev. Mr. Huhatt - the English clergyman at Luxor, and Mr. Coulson - they begged us to go to the Luxor Hotel to a "Cinderella Fancy Dress" Ball for the benefit of the little Hospital here. Theodore made no promises, but took several tickets. Ramadan begins today - very early this year. Luxor. Feb. 5. Yesterday afternoon we rode over to Medinet Habout - very warm going - this splendid temple has been much excavated since I saw it last. Today we had our photographs taken by old Beato, who afterwards came into the boat to see it - and was loud in praises of it. Then we pulled across the river to the gizereh, and went again to Medinet, where we had lunch - and afterwards rode over the burning desert to Der el Bahari -leaving Mary at Medinet to finish her sketches It was very hot - and I am well tired tonight. Feb. 6. We did not much want to leave Luxor this morning - but as Mrs. Baldwin has religious scruples about starting on Sunday - it was today or next week - and as Theodore is anxious to test the sailing qualities of the Beduin with the Ammon-Re, Cooks best and largest boat, we left about noon, twenty minutes or more after they were under way - the wind was very light, but in an hour we had easily overtaken and passed her, to the intense disgust of her men, and the delight of our own. Indeed Rais Fuli, with his calm, serene manner repressed the too PAGE 94 exultant manner of our men - though it must have been the triumph of his own life. About 6 o'clock after much tracking we pulled up near Erment where we now are. I was rather sorry to leave Luxor so soon. We had one very busy day while there - to Karnak in the morning - the races in the afternoon - Mr. and Mrs. Huhatt, Mr. and Mrs. Brown - Miss Scott - and Miss Norton, to tea at 5 o'clock, and Laura Billings and her sister and Mr. Fahenstock of New York to dine in the evening. We had a lovely dinner - and I had some splendid red roses from the Luxor Hotel. This morning before leaving, I went to the Roman Catholic Italian Convent, to see if it were possible to arrange for Zenobia, my little arab child here in whom we have been much interested, to enter the school. I had an interview with the Mother Superior, or rather Mary had, for she could speak only Italian. We found the cleanest, quietest place I have ever seen in Luxor - pleasant airy courts, good gardens - and everything so spotlessly clean - the the Superior herself, clean, fat and sweet as she could be - and strongly reminding us of "The Abbess" of Moroni - a photograph of which I brought with me from home. Zenobia, her father, and her sister, now married - the sweet child of 2 years ago, were at the boat this morning. The sister well clothed, in the usual Arab fashion - veiled as becomes a married woman - and Zenobia as pretty and taking, and round and brown, as she used to be. I fear it will be impossible to get her into the Italian school - but I may succeed with the American Mission school when I go down. I would like to lift the child somewhat out of her dirt and poverty. For the first time at Luxor, I rode in one of the carriages, PAGE 95 2 or 3 of which are supplied by the Hotel - and I felt almost ashamed of myself - one doesn't like to see such unnecessary innovations. Feb. 7. Fifth Sunday after Epiphany. We stopped a short time at the Erment garden to get oranges and lemons this morning, and the Ammon-Ra passed ahead - light wind and calms most of the day. We overtook the Ammon-Ra and sailed her out of sight. Tied up at Esneh at 7:30 - but the wind coming out strong at 9 o'clock, we pulled up our stakes, and were off and did not stop until one o'clock, when we pulled up at Al-Kab having made in all 41 miles. The nights have now a wonderful beauty. A little new moon appeared 3 nights ago - and Venus is resplendent - and so is Sirius. Yesterday and today warm. Feb. 8th. Did not sail early this morning - and as we began tracking about 11, the Ammon-Ra appeared in sight. At 2 o'clock we pulled up at Al-Kab, to see Mr. Somers-Clarke - who is living there on his dahabeah at work at excavations. He came on the Beduin for a short visit, and it was quite an hour before we got away, the A.R. being by that time more than a mile in advance - before an hour had gone by, we had caught and passed her. Passed Edfou about 5 o'clock - what beautiful wide country - what splendid great domes of sycamore trees! We have come about 5 miles above Edfou - and have made 24 miles today. The Beduin seems to sail almost without wind - so smoothly she glided along PAGE 96 mile after mile this evening, through the glittering moon lit water, without a ripple, other than she made. Feb. 9. I do not know how we have made 23 miles today - it has been so calm with so little wind - but at 7 o'clock we passed Silsilis, and are now lying 2 miles above - such a perfect night and so warm. We crept silently along by the dangerous Silsileh rocks, as it was growing dark, and I never saw a more beautiful scene - the water without a ripple - everything bathed in moonlight - and Venus almost as bright as the moon. Ammon-Ra came up later and tied up behind us - and before we had finished dinner Dr. and Mrs. Grinell came over. Busy all day, writing and working, having succeeded in rousing myself out of my long indolence. Feb. 10. A hot calm day - a little tracking this A.M. then laid up, with the Ammon-Ra just behind us. Thermometer at 86° in the afternoon. At 7 came a good wind and we were off, and sailed until 9 o'clock - 2 miles above Kom Ombo which was beautiful as we passed it in the moonlight - made 15 miles. Feb. 11. Thuesday. Assouan. Arrived at 10:30 this morning - having started at 6 o'clock, with the Ammon-Ra and Manhattan within sight behind us - and made 23 miles in 4 hours -having lost sight of both boats. Passed the Gazelle PAGE 97 just below Assouan on her way down. Found the "Sesestris", "Istan", "Philetus" and "Thames" here at Elephantine - and now that the "Ammon-Ra" and "Manhattan" have arrived, we make 7 dahabeahs here. The Philetus started this afternoon for the ascent of the Cataract. Sailed in the felucca towards the Cataract, rowing home. This scenery and these rocks never lose in vividness of expression - and the same beautiful afterglow, that I always associate with Assouan. Feb. 12. Went over to Philae by train - Mary and I - with all our entourage of servants and sailors and hampers - Theodore and Clarence following later on their donkeys, in time for lunch. I found Yemma waiting for me, having heard through one of our sailors that we would arrive. He is little grown - and is really a very efficient little guide - Dendowi too, the unapproachable - who appropriated Mary for the day. Newmans not here this year. Mary at once selected an eligible spot for painting and set to work - and after wandering about and photographing all the children and Mohammet the sailor, I established myself in the long colonnade near Mary, out of the sun, and wind - and read - while Jones and Ibrahim got the lunch ready - I made Yemma and the children sing for me - and when I grew tired of their shouting, I begged them to sing me something soft and low - and they sang squatted on the ground about me, the song I always call the cataract song - as one hears it about here all the time - they sang it softly - in a constantly recurring refrain, putting their heads on their hand to express PAGE 98 sleep - I asked Yemma what the song was, and they all replied that it was the "Dongola" song - and when I asked what it meant, Yemma replied that it was a slumber song (though of course these are not his words) that the mother was singing the baby to sleep - and was telling him not to be afraid, although there was war and fighting in Dongola, here it was safe and quiet - to sleep and not fear. I thought it very pretty, but I believe one song is used for various words. After lunch we walked about, and climbed to the roof of the temple - where of course the views were delicious - and the birds eye view of the island gave a very good idea of the extent of Capt. Lyons work and explorations of last year. Dr. and Mrs. Grinnell also lunched out there but they were in Pharaoh's Bed. We came home by one of the Cataract boats -bringing Yemma and Dendowi with us to show them the boat - then sent them back. They were such amusing little guests. Feb 17. Before 5 o'clock this morning, I heard the preparations for departure. Our splendid big boom was taken down the day we spent at Philae - and for 2 or 3 days the boat has been getting ready for her downward journey. We have had a lovely week at Assouan - the pleasantest I have ever known - at our same old landing, with the same views before us, we felt quite at home. Assouan has greatly improved since we were here, the river front has been faced with stone, and steps made here and there to the water. The main street following the river bank is now clean, and quite well built, with some good government houses, PAGE 99 which with the hotel, give a very bright, clean look. It is very quiet almost no soldiers at the garrison - all having gone to the front. I like the air here better than any place along the river - it is so pure and so entirely from the desert, there being so little vegetation here. A day or two after we arrived, Prof. Sayce and Lord Fitz-Hardinge came to call. The Fitz-Hardinges have the little Thames which they built years ago - and Prof. Sayce on his Istar, was just behind us. A nice, entertaining young fellow with the Fitz-Hardinges, Dr. Bridgman, who found him an enthusiastic gardener, and the only person I ever met who could tell me anything about horticulture in Egypt. We had Prof. Sayce one evening to dinner - and found him very interesting -telling us a great many things we wanted to know. We left Lord Fitz-Hardinge very ill - with threatened pneumonia. He has during the past year succeeded to the title, we having formerly known of him as Hon. Mr. Berkeley. With this title which is one of the oldest in England, dating from the time of King Stephen, he has become owner of Berkeley Castle one of the most interesting historical Castles of England, and also to an income of ￡70,00 a year. He has no children, he and his wife are past 60 - have very quiet tastes - devoted to church work - schools and charities, and terribly depressed by this change of fortune, which breaks up old habits, and entails so much state and responsibility for which they have no liking. The next heir, is Lord Berkeley of Oxford - a man no longer young - no children, and who cares only for chemistry and geology - and devoutly dreads the day when he shall succeed. - Next to him is an unmarried woman not young, the oldest of 9 children of a clergyman, who has just 600 ￡s PAGE 100 to spend a year! Prof. Sayce on the Istar, started down at the same time we did this morning - but he told us yesterday, that he would float faster than we could, as his boat is heavy, with a keel - one of the heavy, old fashioned wooden boats, which would not have the ghost of a chance with us in sailing. We have floated against the wind, but with so little progress that at 7 this morning we stopped judging we have made about 15 miles. We are lying in the cove of the bend of the river, at anchor, some distance from shore, with the "Istar" near below, her lights showing hospitably against this desert shore. The night most resplendent, the moon full and the great yellow sand drifts over the mountain sides, glowing with almost as much color as they do by day. I would not have my blinds closed, and slept with all the curtains back from the windows that I might get all the outside beauty possible - and waking several times during the night, I sat up in my bed and looked out at it all. What beautiful, resplendent loneliness! Feb. 18. We made about 3 miles, starting at half past 6 this morning, but this wretched north wind increasing we gave it up, and lay again in the stream as the shore was so sandy - the Istar almost a mile below us. Prof. Sayce sent over a note, asking us to come to tea - which we did going down in the felucca - very hard rowing against the wind, even with the current, and there really were waves. We had a charming visit Prof. S. Showing us some of his interesting works on Egypt - Belzoni's splendid great volume, with hand painted pictures of the temples and PAGE 101 tombs - his rendering of the hieroglyphs, being remarkably accurate, though at that time there was no key to them - and of course he was ignorant of their meaning - and it was like copying any other detail of decoration. The great Napeonic work, of the French Scientific Expedition which I had never seen before - the travels of Ligh, the Englishman a copy of which Howard Amory gave me from his grandfather's library, and others - one an account of travel written by and Italian "del Valle" in 16____. The Istar is a big, old fashioned boat, and looked most comfortable - 20 ft. wide. We and Cooks new boats are 17 ft. This width gives her a beautiful saloon, and a wide corridor to the stern cabin, which is also very large, and fitted as a library - with bookcases to the ceiling - a charming, scholarly room - and here Prof. S. says he really does his work for the whole year. Another wonderful night but the wind as strong as ever - and we are rocking uncomfortably - indeed I never rocked so much on the river as we have been doing all day. Friday. Feb. 19. We began the morning very early with a light wind, but it soon changed into a big blow - and we were soon driven upon the lee bank, where we pounded up and down in the sand, until Theodore suggested an anchor put out at the stern when we were more comfortable. I have just finished reading Stevenson's "South-Sea Sketches", and a second reading of his Vailima Letters - and are now going to read Ebb Tide. A great blow going on. PAGE 102 Feb. 20. I had quite an attack of neuralgia or rheumatism in my back and chest last night, which kept me from sleeping - and finding when my morning cup of tea was brought me at 7 o'clock - that the gale was still blowing and the boat rocking, I decided after having my bath to go back to bed, and have my breakfast. Wind continued all day, and weather hopeless. I began reading Prof. Sayce's "Egypt of the Hebrews". Last night we got away from our lee shore, and took refuge on the opposite side of the river, where we are now lying, more quietly. Read aloud a long time in Milner's "England in Egypt". Feb. 21. Sexagesima Sunday. The men rowed, or we floated all the latter part of the night until 7 this morning, when I saw Kom Ombo directly in front of us. A fine all around view of it, perched so high on its cliff - we pulled up soon, and after breakfast went up to the Temple - it is charming in its height, though not specially interesting; and is certainly very much swept and garnished. The wind falling, we decided not to linger, but pushed off, just as Gage's Steamer "Memphis" was coming up to her landing. Passed the Istar lying by a little below Kom Ombo. This is our 5th day from Assouan, and we have only covered 29 miles. Feb. 22. Monday. We were off before 6 o'clock this morning - rowing - and in the face of the north wind which still holds with more or less fitfullness - PAGE 103 we passed Silsilis about 3 o'clock - but did not stop, as we are so belated. About an hour afterwards we had gained very much upon the Istar - and our men were pulling lustily - when the order from the Rais was suddenly given to stop, and in a moment after, we went rather hard upon a sand bank - which delayed us about an hour - when we went on until 7 o'clock - apparently by the light of Venus, almost as good as a moon. We tied up at a pleasant bank under some scent trees, having come between 3 and 4 miles below Silsilis - making today 15 miles. It is so easy to tell who is keeping Ramadan. Quite a proportion of crew are and they are so solemn and melancholy. Our nice Mathar, the 2d captain, hasn't even a smile - Rais Fuli, and he, and 5 or 6 of the crew, are carefully keeping it. Tuesday. Feb. 23. We have allowed ourselves just a month from today to reach Cairo - there will be so much to do there about changes in the boat, and getting her ready to leave her, that the 10 days between March 23 and April 3d when we leave for Hrindisi will not be more than we need. But this north wind must cease blowing! This morning we started out before 6 - and when Ainely came to my room, she reported the Istar some distance in advance of us, and another dahabeah. We are wondering if it can be the Gazelle, which left Assouan, the day we arrived. Yesterday the Nephtis passed up, with the Duke of Hamilton on board. His own flag I suppose at the mast, yellow, with a grimping lion - very effective. He has only lately succeeded to the title we were told - and jumped from PAGE 104 a lieutenant in the navy to his present titles and possessions. A pleasant thing. Reached El Kab - 36 miles. Wednesday. Feb. 24. Morning calm - did not start until 10 o'clock - as we had hoped to se Mr. Somers-Clarke. I wanted very much to see his boat. But we found he and Prof. Sayce had gone early to the tombs, so after a little inspection of the old town, we came away - and have with difficulty, against a head wind made 15 miles. Thursday. Feb. 25. We floated down 2 miles to Esneh early this morning - and all the rest went off in the felucca to see the temple - which I don't care for - Jones and Henna went marketing - and they all joined us again at the end of the town. Our men have rowed tremendously this afternoon, hoping to bring us to Luxor tonight - but at 11 o'clock the wind grew so strong that we tied up within sight of the Luxor lights - having made 36 miles. Friday. Feb. 26. We came to our old place near the Castle early this morning. High wind has been blowing all day, and I did not ride out to Karnac with them this afternoon - though we walked into town, and I went to the American Mission to ask about the little arab girl "Nubia" and the chances of sending her to school. I saw Mrs. Nichols in her pleasant PAGE 105 clean rooms - and she could not give me any encouragement. Asked her and Mr. Nichols to come to tea this afternoon - and had a very pleasant visit. They are soon going to America for a vacation year, having spent 7 years here. Only 4 dahabeahs here - the Hyksos, Anna, Gamilla, and one other. Mr. Huhatt came to play chess. Saturday, Feb. 27. Today the Cheops, Columbia and Ammon-Ra came down. All went over early to the Tombs of the Kings for the day - I could not face the idea of such a long excursion in this heat - so stayed on the boat all day - and had a rest and did all manner of delightful little independent things. Intensely hot - I had "Nubia" part of the morning with me, but she was such a restless little colt, I had to send her away at 12 o'clock - quite happy with numerous possessions - the chief of which was a pair of red shoes - which Mohammed Schaiyeh, my singer, bought for her in the town. The family came back at 6:30 -powdered with dust, and tired, and clamouring for lemonade and tea - having had a delightful day. The Osiris came in this afternoon and is lying close behind us. Quinquagesima Sunday. Feb. 28. We had thought of getting off today, but there was no wind, and Mr. Baldwin wants us to wait for him tomorrow. I did not leave the boat, in the afternoon the wind very high. Mrs. Constantine Read and her cousin made us a visit, and Mr. Shephard and his sister of the PAGE 106 Hyksos also came. He, the Engineer of the new railroad. Mohammed Mohassib also came. March 1st. Monday. We did not get away until 7 o'clock this morning - and had not lost sight of the town when a very hard north wind sprang up, and after trying to float, gave it up and anchored, until about 4 o'clock, when it came out a little to the south, and we gladly spread our sails, and had soon come to a big turn in the river which brought the wind on our side, so that we could not keep off the bank. Found here tied up, under the same circumstances, the Osiris which left Luxor the day before us, and the Ammon-Ra who got away an hour before us this morning - and here we all are for the night. Two Mecca pilgrims going to Mecca stopped on the bank above us after the sun had gone down, to break the long fast of the day and eat their evening meal. They were dressed entirely in white, and had a donkey, carrying their luggage. March 2d. Tuesday. A very early start this morning and rowing and floating in company with the Ammon-Ra and the Osiris, we reached Keneh about 3 o'clock, and the rest started in the felucca, before we reached the opposite landing for Denderah, and we floated down below and waited for them. Very hot for 2 hours - found the Columbia at Denderah. They reported on coming home, very unruly donkey boys, and very exciting rows with them. All the morning we were just in advance of the Osiris, PAGE 107 and she floated most unpleasantly near us - two or three times we were actually in collision side by side, and great commotion among the crews. Lord St. Oswald is on her. They all came back in an hour and a half, and we floated and rowed 3 or 4 miles farther down - and tied up with strong wind blowing from the north, at 6:30. I enjoyed a walk on deck while they were away - looking at the splendid desert mountains across the river beyond Keneh. What a hot, desolate spot Keneh must have been last summer, when the cholera raged so violently! I have never been in the town but once - and it lies so back from the river that it cannot be well seen. I suppose just now the Mecca pilgrims are crowding them on their way to Mecca - I should like to have ridden into the town today, and out a way upon the Koser road. The descriptions of this desert route have always fascinated me. We think we have made 31 miles today. Wednesday. March 3. This is Ash Wednesday - and the last of the 30 days of Ramadan - for which we are truly thankful - for Rais Fuli - 2 Rais Mattar - Moomond the big Mohammed, and Baken the little sailor, all keep it rigourously. They represent the very pick of the crew - and things will now be more cheerful. This had been a distracting day. Such a mix as we, the Osiris, the Ammon-Ra, the Columbia and several large working boats have been in most of the day. I have never known such an experience - the wind has been from the north most of the time. Our crew have worked splendidly at their oars, and beaten all the others PAGE 108 out and out. It was a splendid triumph. The gale increased and at 5 o'clock we tied up, followed by all the others - and we are strung along the bank, within 2 or 3 miles of Kasr-el Sayd. After we landed we went to visit the Baldwins. We have made 25 miles - and are rolling a little uneasily in the wind. Thursday. March 4. Made about 5 miles early this morning - heavy gale from the north has made it impossible to stir since 8 o'clock. We are 3 miles below Kasr el-Sayd. Friday. March 5. Started at 5 o'clock this morning - and before I got up, while enjoying my book and cup of tea, we passed the bridge at Nagh-el-Hamadi. Ammon-Ra and Osiris ahead of us. Saturday. March 6. Our men began rowing at 1 o'clock this morning - reached Balliana at 10:30 and started immediately for Abydos. That pleasant ride of 7 miles out and 7 back, never seemed so tiresome - for the very worst donkeys of all the notorious bad donkeys of Abydos or rather Balliana fell to our lot. The day was tremendously hot - the natives specially tormenting. I arrived at the temple more dead than alive - and by 3:30 we were in our saddles again - and I came home resolving PAGE 109 never to do that expedition again. The Ammon-Ra and Osiris did not stop - but the Chensu (English) and the Columbia (American Jews) did, and went to the Temple. We are having the most beautiful little new moon imaginable. For the first two nights it had the resplendent beams almost within its bow. The last winter we were here on the river we used constantly to see the Zodiacal lights - but I have not seen it this time. I saw in the Abydos fields today, the most beautiful light vivid green birds - large as our robin, but more slender and elegant. 1st Sunday in Lent. March 7. Made from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. 27-1/2 miles - are now at Akmim. Monday. March 8. Started early, and made Sohag by 9 o'clock - where we stopped to get coal and provisions and our mail. By 11 o'clock P.M. had come 6 miles below Sohag - making the whole day 11 miles. North wind. Tuesday. March 9. Made 2 miles today early - tied up since in a gale - wind a little west of north - so that we are hoping it may move around to the south. We would like so much to have one record day of gentle south wind! Chonsu passed us, being so heavy, she floats fast. Columbia still behind. Had a row in the felucca. PAGE 110 Wednesday. March 10. Early this morning, we managed to make about 10 yards - but the wind increasing we tied up again - and now lying just as we did all day yesterday at the mercy of the wind, blowing across miles of sand. For days the sky has been full of clouds and last evening they were so ominous, that I hoped the night would bring rain, and perhaps break this deadly magic spell of north wind - but it has been even worse today. We have had the boat as tightly closed as possible, but the air everywhere has been thick with this fine, impalpable sand. Thursday. March 11. Still lying at the same spot, and a gale still blowing - impossible to be on deck except for a walk near sunset - so much sand still flying - rugs cushions etc. all folded and packed away. Friday. March 12. Got away at 6 o'clock and rowed and floated until about 10 - when the wind grew into such a sudden gale, we pulled with difficulty to the shore - where some work boats had taken refuge. Soon after the Nephtys, with the Duke of Hamilton, and a tug came down the river, and came to the shore just below us. 3 miles today. Saturday - March 13. Started in a light wind at 6 A.M. at 11 it was blowing such a gale that we tied up at the high cliffs about 2 miles above and opposite PAGE 111 Tahtah. Just where there is a group of palms - and the white little mosque against the yellow cliffs. Luckily it was not a hot day, or the reflection from those towering limestone cliffs would have been insufferable. But how the wind has blown - in our sheltered position however we got no sand. The canvass on the river side, and over the deck, and at the back were put up - leaving the land side with its pretty sights open - and under the hooded seats, the deck was charming for sitting. All the others went to walk, but I took mine on the clean deck. The Columbia came in sight this morning, and drew up just above us. At 6:30 we both went off, in the bright moonlight, the wind having fallen very much - and the men are still rowing. (They rowed until 12:30, thus making 27 miles). Second Sunday in Lent. March 14. Started early rowing. North wind strong most of the day. We are now tied up 2 miles above Assiut - the lights of the town plainly to be seen. Columbia near us. A superb sunset. Monday, March 15. Between marketing, getting in coke, and the mail, we were at Assiut, until after one o'clock. The afternoon a regular gale blowing, made 2 miles at 8 o'clock. PAGE 112 Tuesday. March 16. We are now beginning to calculate the distance made from 1:30 P.M. of each day. Since that time last night we have made 32 miles - and have passed the troublesome Gebel Abufedah, and are anchored in the stream. We have an almost full moon now, and lovely effects this evening. Wednesday. March 17. Made 21 miles - were blown ashore in the strong wind early in the afternoon near Haggi Kandul - and a lot of noisy children and rough looking men hung about the boat making it hideous with their clamour. We got away from that unpleasant neighborhood and floated down until 10 o'clock. Such a radiant night! Thursday. March 18. We have made 25 miles in the last 24 hours - the day being the calmest we have had and the hottest. We were all driven down stairs after luncheon by the heat. Passed Beni Hassan at one o'clock - but did not stop - as we are so belated. Every day Theodore says "tomorrow" I shall telegraph for a tug, if the south sind doesn't come. Each day we hopefully look for it - and we would even welcome a Khamseen. We reached Minieh at 7 o'clock and got our mail, and will lie here all night. The full moon was wonderfully beautiful and the night so soft. A heavy mist however lying along the river. PAGE 113 Friday. March 19. An early start, and rowing and occasional sailing, or lying by when the wind was too strong, has brought us to within 3 miles of Fashen - making since 1:30, 44 miles, or 61-1/2 from Minieh this morning - a strange, wonderful sunset - and a cloudy night. Saturday - March 20. Started at 6 A.M. made Benisoef about 1:30 - and a drifting and sailing delightfully along before a light wind, all the afternoon, we are now lying 7 miles from Wasta, - 54-1/2 miles since 1:30 yesterday, and 25 miles since 1:30 today. Medum in sight. Third Sunday in Lent. March 21st. An early start in a good wind brought us along so surprisingly that we were near Bedrascheen at 10:30, having discovered some minutes before that beautiful view of the dome and slender minarets of Mohammed Ali - shining in the sun above the thick haze, looking like some enchanted palace. The sailing was so fine, and the Beduin showing her paces so splendidly, that we suddenly decided we would not stop for the visit to Sakkarah, and kept on for the Museum landing at Ghizeh. The sky being full of great clouds, very unlike Egypt - all the morning the blue sky making such delightful contrasts with their great swelling white domes, and the pyramids of Lisht, Dashur, and Sakkarah showing splendidly - until quite in a moment the clouds grew dirty and the atmosphere thick, the wind increased, and we were blown to the bank, with PAGE 114 great effort escaping collision with the rocky foundation of a big sakiyeh on the top of which as usual a blindfolded bullock was walking round and round his wheel. Here we have been ever since, the wind growing into a gale, and the opposite shore almost hidden by the clouds of sand blowing across its sandy waste. We are quite sheltered here from it, though we get enough of it as the atmosphere is so charged with it and when in the afternoon it began softly to rain, the drops seemed like mud, and made a fine mess of our clean windows. The waves beat so high and roughly on the lee shore against which we lay, that the two feluccas, were in danger, and our men worked almost stripped, for 2 hours before they were bailed and lifted to a place of safety. In my stern room the uproar was tremendous - Theodore and Clarence went for a walk, but were driven home by the wind and rain, and there was a great fracas on deck, getting everything under canvass, safe from the wet. The men are always so funny with a rain - like children with a snow storm, and never seem quite to know what to do - 67 miles to 1:30 today. At 11 o'clock this evening, I saw two or three stars showing. Monday, March 22d. We attempted to get on this A.M. at 6 o'clock and succeeded only in making a start and were driven to shore about Old Cairo - tremendous wind, and rain almost amounting to hail in the afternoon - and with our new decks so warped, we came to great grief - the boat leaking in many places - so that when Theodore and Clarence came back from Cairo, where they went and had lunch and came back late in the PAGE 115 afternoon - they found us with curtains taken down from the windows, and bowls and pans standing about everywhere. They were so pleased to get home - they were ineffably amiable - said it seemed after Cairo like Paradise. Tuesday. March 23. We made the Museum landing at Ghizeh this morning early - and fortunately we were to have accomplished it - for the wind has increased in violence - it has been a gale all day - and it is cold and disagreeable - a bad March day for any part of the world. We spent a pleasant morning however at the Museum - and had it all to ourselves. Theodore and Clarence have been into Cairo, and report it dismal. Wednesday. March 24. A gale all day - with rain now and then. Morning at the Museum - Salah came out to see us. Thursday. March 25. Very busy all the morning with the various work people coming to the boat. Carpenters, painters, upholsterer, sail makers. Mary and I drove in the afternoon - charming and warmer - Cairo very pretty with flowering shrubs and vines - very quiet and empty. Poor Abdul had been quite ill for some days, and so suffering that we sent for Dr. Sandwith yesterday, who said he must go to the hospital for a few days. So this PAGE 116 morning the men with Jones, took him down in the felucca- being able to go quite to its doors in the boat. He is a great loss to us just at present not being simply the valued servant, but interpreter. Fortunately we have fallen back on Salah, who fortunately has no engagement just now, and comes out to us every day. Excessively warm. I have never been in Cairo when so warm. Friday. March 26. Mrs. Taylor and Florence came this morning and made a visit, and were very pleasant - putting us en rapport with everything in and about Cairo - asking us to dine on Saturday with them at the Gesireh to meet Sir John Scott, who wants to know Theodore, and whom Theodore is very keen to meet. Sir John is Judicial Advisor to the Khedive, and did excellent work in India before coming here to help straighten out Egyptian affairs. In the afternoon went to the races - which were rather slow - met Mrs. Hamilton Lang and her daughter - saw Gen. Kitchener, the Sirdâr and other notables. Fourth Sunday in Lent. March 28. I was ill all day yesterday, and could not go to dinner with Mrs. Taylor - which was reported very pleasant. This afternoon Dr. and Mrs. Sandwith came to tea - and Mrs. Taylor and Florence, and her fiancé Mr. Morice to dine. We had a nice evening. PAGE 117 Tuesday, March 30. Cairo. We came over to Shepheards this afternoon - and are in the corner room we had 5 years ago, when Fielding was with us. Then it was cold and we had a fire in the big sitting room. Now it is so hot, that we have all the windows open at night and shut during the day to keep out the heat. But it is very noisy and smelly. I do not like it, although my balcony opens on the pretty garden. Hotel quite empty - very tired from yesterday - packing and arranging. Wednesday, March 31. Over at the boat which still lies at Ghizeh - and where our Rais intends to stay all summer because it is so much cooler. Delightful drive in the afternoon. Thursday, April 1st. Theodore and Clarence went to the Courts of Justice this morning with Sir John Scott and Mr. Morice, and were much interested. Abdul came back from the hospital, very weak and thin, but almost well. A bothersome time for days getting all the carpets, curtains, stuffs, etc. of the boat safely packed away from dangers of moths and vermin. The boat reeks with the smell of Naphthaline and Camphor. The poor Beduin, so changed - closed and dark, with her thick brown summer awnings enshrouding her - all the men gone but Rais Fuli, and Arbuk, the nice little crew cook, who stays with the Captain - and Abdul, who will live with Fuli on the boat, and look after the inside cleaning - as he PAGE 118 reads and writes English, it will be very convenient for us - and Rais Fuli is immensely glad to have him. The Taylors sailed for Marseilles today in the Clyde. Friday, April 2d. We were obliged to go again to the boat to confer with the old French painter as to the colours for the outside. Then goodbye to all - and a delightful drive. Theodore and Clarence on their horses with us most of the way. The air has been quite delightful for 2 days - all our friends beg us to stay for the charming April weather. We are off tomorrow morning for Alexandria and sail for Brindisi in the afternoon. Rome. Bristol Hotel. April 15. A long interval in this journal. We left Alexandria the afternoon of the 3d in the fine new S.S. Bohemia for Brindisi. Weather very warm - and we were glad of the welcome change which two or three hours at sea brought. Boat very comfortable - but passage rough - almost every one in his bed - I stayed in mine Sunday and Monday - and we landed at Brindisi at 5 o'clock and made our train, because they were complaisant enough to hold our train 40 minutes for us. The long ride to Naples was not so tiring, and seemed more pleasant than usual. So delightful the country seemed in its fresh spring greenness - and the huge vegetable garden which stretches as far as the eye can see, without boundaries, for miles before reaching Naples, is something quite wonderful. Everything planted under the thin foliaged trees, with their garlands PAGE 119 of vines stretching from tree to tree. We found pleasant rooms at the Grand Hotel, but Theodore had taken a cold in crossing, which developed into a light form of grippe, which gave him much suffering and restlessness - and he had the Doctor (Malbrane) who is always so simple and helpful, and stayed in the room all the time, and one day in bed. As the weather was not good, clouds everywhere, Vesuvius and the islands hidden from view most of the time, I stayed at home with Theodore - and on Saturday the 10th he was well enough to come on here - Clarence, Mary, Amilie and Jones spent one day at Pompeii, and Clarence the next day at Vesuvius. We had rooms engaged at the Quirinal, but found them much too small and fortunately having had an offer from the Bristol we came here, which is always my favorite hotel in Rome. But alas, I have since coming here developed the grippe also - and have been in bed and in the house all the time until yesterday, as uncomfortable as I ever remember of being - with Dr. Bull in daily attendance. All the world more or less is in Rome - and to my thinking Holy Week is not the time to visit Rome, unless one is interested in church ceremonies. The pictures in churches covered, many galleries closed etc. Hotel Grande Bretagne. Florence. April 22. We got away from Rome Tuesday the 20th at 9 o'clock in the morning - I was glad to leave - for Mary had taken cold, and we were all under the weather. On Easter Sunday, I was able to drive out 7 miles on the Campagna to the Villa Livia, where we met by invitation Mrs. Elliott, who had asked some of her friends to take tea with us there. PAGE 120 Mrs. Stillman, the once favorite beauty was there - Mr. Larz Anderson - the young Swedish American sculptor Anderson, whose mother lives in Newport was there and others. It was not quite my idea of enjoyment - sitting at 5 o'clock P.M. on rugs on the ground at the top of a windy hill - but Mrs. Elliott's intention was good and kind. The next morning, Theodore, Mary and I went to St. Peters and saw the lovely Melozzo angels and frescoes in the inner sacristy - then drove to the Colosseum and along the Via S. Gregorio, the morning being quite warm and beautiful. Theodore went to lunch with the Elliotts, and in the afternoon Mary and I drove to the Villa Doria Pamphilia, the lovely grounds of which were full of people, it being Easter Monday and a holiday. But the weather had changed and the wind was cold - so we drove to the Piazzo Rusticucci to say goodbye to Mrs. Elliott and had a pleasant visit - meeting for the first time Mr. Elliott - a handsome, rather invalid looking man, whom I liked - especially when he took me on to his roof garden which he cultivates entirely himself, and which has charming views of S. Pietro and the whole quarter. It was gay with vines and climbing roses and flowers and quite fascinating. Clarence met us there, and after tea we all drove home. Mrs. Elliott and her cousin Miss Von Ralem having dined with us the night before. We had a pleasant ride to Florence, found Nettie waiting for us, and who soon went off with Mary. We have pleasant rooms here overlooking the Arno and Ponto Vecchio, and we, that is Theodore and I, have decided to stay here and not go to Venice - Clarence will go alone. PAGE 121 April 24. Saturday. We are having a rainy day - Nettie and I however went for a little shopping this morning - before the rain began - the wind was blowing and the dust flying however. We brought up at Pelotti's where we met Theodore, and looked at many enticing things. Mr. Berenson came to lunch - and after Lieutenant Niblock called - home all the afternoon the rain pouring. Theodore still has a troublesome cold, and I have quite mended. Yesterday morning, Nettie, Theodore and I drove a long time in the lovely Cascine. In the afternoon a visit to the Bardini palace with its fascinating collection, and then a visit to Lizzie - Mary and Clarence have been busy each day doing Florence. This afternoon Clarence went off alone to Venice, charged with the precious things and the mission to the Armenian convent of St. Lazarre. We have done the Uffizzi and Academia, and had a lovely afternoon at San Miniato. Wednesday evening Mrs. Bend and her daughters dined with us, and on Thursday Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. Sunday after Easter. April 25. We are just home from the Victoria Hotel, where we have been dining with Mrs. Bend and spent a pleasant evening with her and her two pretty girls. The day has been lovely - Nettie and I had a delicious morning together at the Pitti - and afterwards went to the church of the Carmine to see the Masaccio frescoes - which I knew well from my photographs - and could therefore intelligently enjoy in detail, despite the darkness of the little chapel where they are, and their faded condition. PAGE 122 Lizzie Buttles and both girls came to lunch, and stayed to tea. After they had gone, Mrs. Baldwin called. I found her simple, pleasant and unaffected - and I enjoyed talking to her. She has asked us to lunch on Tuesday. Monday. April 26. After a morning with Mary and Theodore at the Bargello, among the della Robias and Donatellos - Theodore and I drove out to the Villa Rosa at Fiesole to lunch with Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. A nice scotch woman was there - a Miss Christina Breenner - worker in and writer on education of women. A pleasant visit, and much talking - and a charming drive down the hill and a turn in the Cascine which was quite too lovely - none of the gay throng having arrived - the air so delicious - the birds singing like mad. We had to hurry home, for Mrs. Bend and her girls were coming to tea to meet Lizzie and the girls. Nettie, poor child, detained at home with one of her bad neuralgia headaches - Theodore and I dined alone - and have had a quiet evening, writing letters. Tuesday, April 27. Such a busy day - shopping this morning - lunching at Dr. Baldwins - where we had a delightful visit - and a beautiful luncheon, the house charming - home to meet Nettie for some searching of photographs at Alinaris - then to Lizzies to tea - and Nettie sang for us in splendid voice. Then a drive with Theodore and Mary in the Cascine. Mary came to dine, and Nettie came for her with Hassan in the evening. PAGE 123 Afterwards Theodore and I went up to Mrs. Woodward Haven's rooms to pay a visit and say goodbye. Weather very warm - off tomorrow for Milan. Wednesday. April 28th. A very busy morning with Mary - Lizzie and the girls came to lunch - and at 2 o'clock we had to say goodbye to Lizzie and Mary - and Nettie, Theodore and I started for Milan, which we reached comfortably enough at 10 o'clock - taking possession of our old, pleasant rooms at this Hotel Cavour. Thursday. April 29. Theodore, Nettie and I started out at 10 o'clock for the Brera - where we stayed quite 2 hours - this afternoon Nettie and I drove to the other end of everywhere, to the interesting little church of S. Eustorgio. We found it was a festa, and the little piazza in front of the church full of bazaars and peasants. As the especial picture we wanted to see was near the entrance, we got the wife of the Sacristan to open it for us - the picture is a lovely one of the Madonna enthroned by Borgognone. The 3 different entrances to the church were lined with collections of blind, lame and halt, and the poor things all begging. Then we drove along distance to S. Ambrogio, which I saw some years ago. Here there was a great service going on, and we could see nothing. So we came home, stopping on the way to buy some flowers. What a contrast to Florence - which was literally lined with flowers and roses. Here not a flower for sale on the streets, and hardly any PAGE 124 shops to be found of them. The streets of Milan are now so intersected by tramways that driving is impossible and uncomfortable. We found Lord Fitzhardinge and his party here just on their way up from Egypt, and Dr. Bridgman came to dine with us - and stayed until nearly 12 o'clock - talking continually in his amusing way. They go tomorrow direct to London - Clarence came back from Venice, enthusiastic, in time for dinner. Friday. April 30. This morning we spent at the Poldo, Pozzoli, and Ambrosiana - delightful but tiring. In the afternoon Dr. Bridgman and Clarence and Nettie went to the Brera - afterwards to the Cathedral - and back in time for lunch. It was so pleasant in our sitting room with its big windows opening to the Park, and the sweet fragrant air pouring in, that after tea we walked over, and looked at the trees, and the swans and pheasants. A beautiful soft evening, with great masses of clouds, touched with rosy light, giving promise of rain tomorrow. We start for Turin at 11:30 tomorrow morning. Saturday. May 1st. Turin. Grand Hotel de Turin. We left Milan at 10:30 this morning and arrived here at 2 P.M. After lunch we went immediately to the Musée, to see the Egyptian things we had so long wanted to see. After climbing 2 huge stone staircases we came to the Egyptian department, and looked in for a moment, and then PAGE 125 went on to the next floor very foolishly to see the paintings. Not much that is interesting, though we were much interested in seeing the Bugiardini with the little St. John, almost the exact counterpart of the St. John in Theodore's so called Francia. The subject was the Madonna and Child, adored by the infant St. John and a lovely picture it was. Berenson had written Theodore a year or more ago, that his picture was a Bugiardini and not a Francia and the other day at Fiesole he had shown him the photograph of this Turin picture, and quite convinced him of Bugiardini as the artist. We lingered so long with these pictures that we were too late for the Egyptian gallery - and put our visit off for tomorrow morning. Then we drove about the town, with its handsome well shaded streets and modern houses, and picturesque river bank, and were quite delighted with it - but long before we had finished our drive, one of the horses being rather restive broke his traces, and we were forced to leave the carriage - Nettie and I taking a cab to the hotel, and Theodore and Clarence walking. We are having a dull evening - in our big gloomy rooms - Theodore is not well - seems to have taken cold, and has been sleeping ever since dinner. Monday, May 3d. Hotel Westminster - Paris. Yesterday morning Theodore seemed much better, but not well enough to venture upon a visit to stony, cold galleries. So Nettie and I went off at 10 o'clock for a morning in the Egyptian department. What was our dismay and disgust at finding the Museum did not open until 1 o'clock - PAGE 126 and we starting for Paris at 2:10! So we ordered lunch at 12:30 and immediately afterwards started again for the Musée, intending to drive from there in half an hour to the station, meeting the rest there. On reaching the gallery we deposited our parasols with the custodian and quickly toiled up those great staircases, only to find the doors of the Egyptian department closed! No words could describe our indignation and dismay - we tried bribery - demanded the director, who was not there of course, and baffled and angry we had to return to our hotel - wishing we had gone as usual to Paris by the Basle and Lucerne route. We got away from Turin at 2:30 and found 2 very comfortable compartments reserved for us in the sleeping car - and the afternoon proved delightful. The Scenery was beautiful - grand with splendid effects - I think I never enjoyed a railway ride so much. As with the help of 2 powerful engines we climbed the Mt. Cenis mountain route, it was charming - green smiling plains - snow tipped mountains - streams of rushing, tumbling water pouring down the mountains sides - and every where fascinating Alpine plants growing - such as we try to cultivate in our rock gardens at home, and generally fail in doing. The night was very comfortable - our beds clean - and by 9 o'clock we were established in our familiar apartments here, which we have already occupied twice before. Paris looks quiet. Few Americans here, it is said. Tuesday, May 4. This morning I drove with Theodore away off to the Ave-de la Republique to Calmonts to buy a pair of field glasses for Fuli, and another PAGE 127 for Clarence. It was really cold, with piercing winds - and I was very uncomfortable. We stopped at the Hotel de France at Choiseul to see Mrs. Taylor and Florence - and found them both with bad colds, and made them promise to come and dine this evening. They have just gone home. Wednesday. May 5. A very dreadful thing happened here yesterday - about 4 o'clock in the afternoon: a charity Bazaar was being held in a large building built and often used for such purposes in the Rue Jean Gonjou near the Palais de l'Industrie. At the time it was crowded with people representing the very best element in French society. The Duchesse d'Alençon sister of the Queen of Austria being at the head of it. Suddenly flames broke out, in an instant the light painted wooden roof was in flames, and within 20 minutes the whole thing with nearly 200 of the audience, who did not succeed in in escaping, were all a charred and smoking mass. People escaped without clothing, and shoes. The crowd of waiting carriages did not receive half of their occupants - almost before help could be rendered the thing was over - the Duchesse d'Alençon was burned at her stall, and no remnant of her has been discovered. The streets are almost silent - a pall over the whole city - one thinks, talks, and sees nothing else. Never was a catastrophe so sudden - so complete - so full of horrible details. The weather is bad - cold - rain and even a little snow. PAGE 128 Thursday. May 6. We have plunged into the travail of dress making and shopping which seems almost heartless in this stunned and bereaved city. The daily details of this horrible accident grow worse and more harrowing. The whole civilized world stands aghast. The weather of yesterday repeats itself today, - rain, snow, and cold, cold winds. I am a little wretched - and so is Theodore. Terry Boal arrived today from Thonon - with his wife - having left the baby with his Aunt Sara and Annie at their home in Thonon. They are on their way to America - and why they have left the baby, with the mothers heart rent with grief, no one can say - their plans seem very vague and uncertain. Friday. May 7. This is Theodore's birthday - his 58 birthday. We made a little festa this afternoon, and asked Mrs. Taylor and Florence to tea, and Terry and Mathilde were here. A cold, rainy day - I spent most of the morning in Dr. Bull's office, having my eyes examined - and this afternoon Nettie and I tried to accomplish something, but were driven home by the wind and rain. Florence Talylor came to dinner, and has gone to the Opera with Theodore, Nettie and Clarence, to hear Lohengrin. The theatres have been closed for 2 days, on account of the dreadful catastrophe. This morning, I could hardly drive to the Flower market at the Madeline, on account of the carriages ranged around it, and the front draped in black. This is the day of most of the enterrements - some of the churches are dressed in white, marking the funerals of the young, the others in black. PAGE 129 Fourth Sunday after Easter. May 16. A week or more has gone by, with very little to chronicle, except continued bad and gloomy weather and constant shopping and sight seeing and wrestling with Paris dressmakers and milliners. It has seemed as if the weather were in mourning with the city. The Taylors dined with us last night and said goodbye and Terry and Mathilde come to dine tonight. We are off tomorrow for London, and very glad we all are. We are very much delighted these last days because Theodore has secured the beautiful Chigi Madonna of Botticelli for which he has been bargaining since before we left Rome. He has also stumbled upon a charmingly interesting painting of a Madonna and Child by that rare old Venetian painter the father of the Venetian school, Bartolemmeo Vivarini. He saw it a few days ago at Durand-Ruel's rooms - who had bought it with two or three old Italian daubs at an auction or sale from an old Paris family - he paid 400 dollars for it and evidently did not know its value. It was in a wretched condition - the panel warped and worm eaten. Theodore wanted it from the first and took me and Nettie to see it - we were charmed. Nettie pronounced it excellent and when a day or two after Theodore heard that the Louvre people were looking at it, he decided to buy it and have it transferred to canvas. He paid 1600 dollars for it. The Madonna is seated with the child on her knee - behind her a red curtain hung on a black cord, a gold background, beautifully dulled and reddened by time - signed - PAGE 130 London - Hotel Bristol. Friday - May 21. We came over from Paris last Monday the 17th - had a good but cold crossing - but a comfortable cabin, in which Nettie and I stretched ourselves out, and slept almost the whole way over. We have a gorgeous appartment here, on the first floor. London is very empty of Americans. Everyone is I suppose waiting for the Queen's 60th anniversary of her reign - it will be a great Jubilee - decorations and scaffoldings for seats are going up everywhere. The weather has been very good ever since our arrival - we have been busy shopping for the house and the dahabeah - seeing pictures and driving. Nettie and I go out to Sanderstead Court tomorrow to stay over Sunday with the Wallaces - and Theodore and Clarence go to Oxford to stay over Sunday. Monday. May 24. Nettie and I came back from Sanderstead Court this morning, where we had gone on Saturday to pay a visit to those dear Wallaces. The weather was bright - but a cold north east wind blowing - so that it was a great contrast to our last visit there. There was a pleasant house party - especially an interesting old woman, Miss Ogle of Northumberland and we talked and walked about the park, and the terrace, and investigated the gardens - Nettie sang to them in the evenings, to their great delight. There is such comfort and luxury in these English country houses. Gaspard Farrar came to dinner tonight. PAGE 131 Wednesday evening. May 26. We made our 3d visit to the National Gallery this morning - weather cold and threatening. We have found driving, even in the park, disagreeable. Busy shopping and seeing things. Last evening we dined at Sir William Farrars - and had a charming evening. Sir William in spite of his age and infirmities very interesting and agreeable. To the play this evening: "My Friend the Prince". Very laughable. Sunday - after Ascension. May 30. We spent a delightful day on Thursday. Going out to Sevenoaks where we had lunch at the "Royal Crown" and then drove to Knole - and saw that wonderful house with its picturesque courts and rooms and countless treasurers. Theodore and I were fascinated with the beautiful Persian rugs, which are said to have been in the house since the time of Queen Elizabeth. Then we walked and drove about the great park with its renowned beeches, until it was time to take the train back to London. Fielding was with us. On Friday, Theodore and Clarence went to Sanderstead Court to lunch - the day cold and stormy. Nettie and I went to the National Gallery, and took a drive and in the evening we all went to dine with Fielding and his sister Lady Winifride Cary-Elwes and such a pleasant evening, as they are musical, and Nettie sang a great deal - and it was after 12 o'clock when we came home. On Saturday Fielding and Mr. Cary-Elwes came early, and Nettie sang the PAGE 132 whole morning - they stayed to lunch, and most of the afternoon. Rain all day - Theodore went out to Hothorpe to stay until Monday. This morning, the weather being fairly pleasant, we decided, Nettie, Clarence and I, that we would go to Hampton Court - and ordered a carriage to be ready at 11 o'clock. Waited until half past, when the porter sent word he had not been able to get a carriage, having tried 3 stables. So very wrathfully we gave up Hampton Court, and ordered a hansom for the National Gallery - which we found closed, the policeman saying it was only open on Sunday from 2 to 6. Then we decided to go to Westminster Abbey, where we found the congregation just dispersing, and were told the Abbey was closed on Sunday between services. There was nothing then to do but come home and have lunch and start for Kno Gardens - for which we had ordered a carriage. We spent 2 delightful hours walking about there - and just after we got home, after 6 o'clock, Mrs. Davis, and Terry Boal and Mathilde arrived from Paris. Tuesday evening. June 1st. Nettie departed this morning for Florence. Afterwards Theodore and I went to the stores, and at the top of the first staircase, I met Mrs. Sandwith, just arrived from Cairo, and as she turned away, I saw Theodore speaking to Mr. Somers-Clarke who said he left Cairo a few days since, the thermometer had been 106 in the shade - and a damp heat at that. His boat is lying next the Beduin, at Shubron's yards. We left cards this afternoon on various friends - and settled our final arrangements - packing etc. Mrs. Davis, Clarence, Terry Boal and Mathilde all took an early PAGE 133 dinner, and departed for the Military Tournament - and at this hour 11:30 are not yet home. Lady Winifride and Mr. Cary-Elwes, Lady Agnes and Mr. de Trafford, and Mr. Fielding came to dinner with Theodore, and me at 8 o'clock, and we had a charming, jolly evening. Delightful people. They have just gone. We are off tomorrow at noon for Liverpool and will sail about 5 in the afternoon. 11

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PAGE 73 S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896 We sailed at 10 o'clock on Saturday the 14th - Mr. Convers, Mr. Luling and Mr. Jevons were down to see us off. A cold bright morning - and the cold lasted until yesterday - everyone congealed - but we are now in warmer waters - and constant sunshine - I have a large bright room - at a table in which I am writing. The sun looks into my port by day, and the moon by night -for we have fortunately fallen upon the second quarter of the moon. The last thing I do, after having turned out the light at night, is to climb up on the sofa, and take a look at the night, and the wide waste: of blue black water, in which our ship makes its great furrow of dashing white foam - what a beautiful immensity it is, and a grand picture to carry into the oblivion of the night. There are comparatively few passangers - and I have never known such pleasant ones. The Hamilton Fisks of New York - Dr. Doty, the Health Officer of the N. Y. Port, Mrs. Ward Howe Elliot, the daughter of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe - and a Mr. Pratt - now American Consul General at Singapore, and for five years our Minister to Persia - a really cultivated man. We all have tea together in the afternoon, and make very merry - and we have Mrs. Bend of New York and her two daughters at our table. I asked Mr. Pratt how long Benjamin, former Minister to Persia, had lived in that country, and he said 3 years. I said that was rather a short time acquaintance with a country about which to write an exhaustive work. He tole me Benjamin had given great offence to the Shela, and others in his book - and that he had seen absolutely nothing of parts of Persia about which he writes. PAGE 74 Nov. 27. We will reach Genoa in a few hours, and I will gladly say au revoir to the sea for 3 or 4 days. It is very cold this morning, but clear. Until we reached Gibraltar our beautiful balmy weather lasted. We passed the Azoros on the 20th - running very close to the large island of San Miguel - very picturesque with its background of mountains, and the steep slopes, some of them quite cultivated to the top - its pleasant looking houses and villages - and the miles of low grass houses, where immense quantities of pineapples are cultivated. On Monday morning the 23d we reached Gibraltar, and went ashore, despite of some threatening clouds. We took Beatrice Bend in our carriage and went as far as Europa Point, but before we again reached the town, rain began to fall, and there was nothing to do but stop at the wretched Hotel Royal, and wait until it was time to go back to the steamer - and there we waited staring out on the same little square where I spent so many hours doing the same thing two years ago. Theodore went out and bought 3 umbrellas - a pair of overshoes for me, and 3 yards of macintosh cloth for us to sit upon on the wet, unprotected decks of the little tender. From that time until last night the gale has raged - and 3 miserable nights have I spent and 2 days in my forward cabin, tossed up and down. Yesterday morning early the 26, we dropped our anchor in the bay of Naples - and in spite of some rain and a high wind, I went ashore with the rest, and spent a pleasant day. The two Bend girls we took immediately to the Grand Hotel, and found pleasant rooms for them, and by the time Mrs. Bend arrived from the PAGE 75 Custom House, we had ordered luncheon, and made a short visit to the Aquarium. How good that lunch was, and how good the stable land was! Then we said goodbye to our friends, and started back to the steamer - stopping a few moments at Squadriblis to buy some shell things. We have had a quiet night, and are running smoothly this morning. S.S. Freiderick der Grosser. near Port Said. Dec. 6 I am so thankful that this long voyage has almost come to an end - and that we will arrive at Port Said early tomorrow morning - we reached Genoa on the 27 Nov. just too late to catch the only train to Florence at noon - and after a slight delay at the Custom House, made a long journey through the streets of the town to the "Hotel du Pare" a rather attractive looking ancient Villa standing in large grounds with trees, which might be cheerful on a summers day, but on that chill afternoon, dripping with rain, was truly disconsolate. The palatial rooms and halls, with their tiny fires and enormous windows shaking and rattling in the gale, made us thankful we were only going to stop for the night. The next day we were off for Florence at 12 o'clock - which we reached at 7 P.M. - a weary ride - slow and rough, through never ending tunnels. The girls and Hassan were waiting for us, and went with us to the Grande Bretagne, where we were installed in our old appartment. Florence the next day was cold, but bright. I spent the Sunday morning with Mary shopping - I found her chattering Italian like a native. Theodore and Nettie went to the Uffizzi - PAGE 76 Clarence and Jones to do as much of the town as they could. Lizzie and both girls came to breakfast, and the girls stopped to lunch - after which a drive to Fiesole, and the rest of the time with Lizzie in their pretty little appartment, 2 Via Venezia, and then all came home with us to dinner. Berenson also came to dinner, looking very well. The next day we were off to Genoa again, with Mary along and went for the night to the "Hotel Isotta", much more comfortable than the other. At 2 o'clock the next day we went out to the Frederick the Great - and after enormous trouble and anxiety, through the insufficiency and want of order of the North German Lloyd Co. we succeeded at last in getting all our 30 pieces of luggage out of the Custom House and aboard the steamer - and sailed about 5 o'clock the next morning for Naples. We found the steamer very pleasant, but rather durious in her arrangement. Large as she is she only carries 120 first class passengers - but she carries enormous freight to Australia - her decks are charming - the service and the food very poor. Reached Naples the next morning - rain pouring - everyone else went ashore - I stayed at home - Dr. Peabody and family, Mr. Pratt and Dr. Doty arrived in the afternoon. So did the Kaiser Wilhelm, just from New York, a week later than ourselves. We were at last off on the home stretch for Egypt at 6 P.M. Since then the weather has been bad, and heavy seas until today - which is lovely. In my room during most of the voyage from Genoa. PAGE 77 Shepheards Hotel. Cairo. Dec. 9 - 96 We arrived day before yesterday the 7th at 6 P.M. and took possession of our pleasant old appartment facing the street no. 120 et suite. On the evening of the 6th we passed the Damietta light, and the ship steamed slowly and almost imperceptibly along until she dropped anchor at Port Said about 2 o'clock A.M. There was but little sleep to be had - what with the coaling, the babbling and shrieking outside, and the stir inside - and as the night was warm, and all the doors and ports closed because of the coaling, sleep was far from every one. At 6 o'clock Amilie came to call me, and I was glad to give up the struggle and get up. We had little trouble at the Custom House, and were soon in a clean and very comfortable railway carriage for Ismailia, where we got an excellent lunch at the new hotel established lately by Shepheards, and waited for the Cairo train. We find Shepheards practically empty - and this season is to be a bad one for Egypt I fear. The next morning we had a grand disappointment in finding that our boat was a month behind time - painters and carpenters still at work - the boom not raised, and general helplessness. The English foreman of Thubron is quite ineffectual - and Thubron has shown gross negligence and carelessness. Instead of the boat ready, and in sailing order for the 1st of Dec. as the contract calls for - Thubron has evidently given his whole attention to building gunboats up the river. He has been at Dongola for 3 months - and has allowed the Beduin to care for herself. Theodore with admirable patience made PAGE 78 himself master of facts through the dire confusion of falsehoods and incompetency, and then he went for Thubron and his foreman, with such well directed effort and so much energetic talking, that the foreman is scared out of his life, and the workmen are jumping about like monkeys. I am busy all the time now with an hundred practical details. Sunday, Dec. 13. Mary and Clarence have gone off in the carriage with Salah to see the Tombs of the Mameluks and the Khalifs - Theodore, Dr. Doty and Dr. Peabody, have gone on donkeys to see the dahabeah. We go every day to the boat to watch and direct its progress - and we hope to be able to get off by the 1st of January. The great trouble now is that the furniture was not shipped from England until the 6th of Dec.! We have engaged our old cook Hanna - poor Selim having died here not more than a month ago - Hanna speaks no French or English, but as we have engaged a very promising young Nubian as waiter whom Salah knows very well, and who has lived for years in England, we can get on very well. Ibrahim too is engaged as 2d man and laundress - and my Mohammed Ibrahim is going in no capacity that I can think of, except to learn more English, and if he can, to wait and do domestic work. It is impossible now to tell how much English he knows, as he is so shy and frightened when he trys to speak. Theodore gave a dinner last night, and had Dr. Sandwith and Peabody and Doty. Theodore and I had a delicious drive yesterday in the afternoon to the Ghezireh Palace, and walked about the shady avenues PAGE 79 and among the flowers - stopping to return the visit of Dr. Sandwith and Mrs. Sandwith on our way home. Ghesireh Palace Hotel. Dec. 27. We left Shepheards this morning and came over here, to escape the smells and noise of Cairo and are so enchanted with the delicious air and space - our rooms are really palatial - and look out on the beautiful garden - and the sitting room opens on a balcony, which the present hot weather makes quite delightful. The sun was so hot this afternoon that the awning was necessary. The house is practically empty - and it is so enormous, that only in the evening after dinner, when everyone congregated in the big hall, that there seems to be anyone here. We are so busy, trying to help along the boat - and there are so many vexatious delays, that our patience is fairly exhausted. I am amazed at Theodore's apparent patience with Thubron and his unprincipled inefficiency. I have never been so long in Cairo before - and I think I am tired of it - if not of Cairo, certainly of the life of hotels - and the dreary people. It is nice to see the interest and enjoyment of Clarence and Mary in everything. I am well - and quite free from cold for the first time in Cairo. Jan. 3. Second Sunday after Christmas. Still waiting impatiently to get off - some progress has been made during the past week to be sure. The obscure and troublesome - PAGE 80 Jan. 9th - what I intended saying when I began that last sentence, quite a week ago, I have now not the faintest idea. Each day since has been so busy, with tiresome occupations, driving down to the dahabeah through that squalid Boulak-Ramleh quarter - until I am fairly sick with the sight of so much misery that no one can relieve. The long delayed furniture came yesterday - and with much trepidation I saw it unpacked, and if my worst fears were not realized, there were enough disappointments to make it almost unbearable. Chairs too large for the rooms - everything a little too big, or a little too small - the side board entirely forgotten - and I had to get into the carriage with Thubron, and drive to 3 different furniture places before I found a little second hand buffet that freshened and polished, will answer for this winter - then I bought finger bowls, caraffes - liqeur glasses - candlesticks - match boxes - soap dishes etc. etc. etc. Still with all these drawbacks the Beduin is so comfortable and so convenient and pretty, that we are thoroughly happy that on Monday morning we will take possession of her, and at last start up the river. We have had real Cairo winter weather for 10 days - high winds, clouds, occasional sharp rains. These things would not be unbearable - were it not for the discomfort of indoors in such weather. We would never think it possible at home to sit in a room where the thermometer stood at 62° only. But my thermometer has been just there for several days. There is in each of our big rooms, a tiny, ornamented accidental fireplace, between two of the big windows - these are strictly ornamental, and are almost hidden by the magnificent satin draperies of the windows. But two or PAGE 81 three days ago when the wind was high and cold, I asked the waiter if we could have a fire, and it was made, much to the cost of our comfort, for the only draught was out into the room - and if the fuel had been anything but charcoal, the consequences might have been disastrous - as it was, all the wooden mantle was scorched, and the windows had to be opened to clear the room. We learned afterwards that there were no openings at the top to these chimneys - so that the fireplaces were purely pieces of ornamental furniture. Dahabeah "Beduin". Monday, Jan. 11. 1897. We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to Bedrasheen, where we are now lying. Mary and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the Beduin, under convoy of the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o'clock. Just as we reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our "Beduin" stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her go by - and I heard her pronounced the "handsomest craft on the river". Immediately after lunch, when poor Theodore had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us, until we came down. In the midst of it, Mrs. and Miss Taylor arrived for a parting visit. Then there was the "debbil to pay" as dear old Salah would say, as Theodore PAGE 82 discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as Assiut; they had no food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt blessing from us all to the impossible Thubron, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are happy, if not yet in order. Jan. 12. We have made about 18 miles - and are somewhere between Bedreschein and Wasta. The tug proves a worthless thing. She can make about 2 miles with us, an hour, without any assistance from us - but if we have a wind that at all fills our sails, we sail right on to her and she has to cast off. Various "désagrémens" have developed themselves, the most important of which is old Henna, our cook, who was with us for 2 winters on the Herodotus has taken fright at the range in his kitchen, and thinks he can do nothing with it, although he makes much better bread with it, than I have ever known him do before. And, we greatly need the forgotten sideboard - and many rather necessary things have been overlooked. However, we are so pretty and convenient, that we are quite ashamed of ourselves in complaining of anything. My room is entirely charming - and so are all the bedrooms in their pretty chintzs and simple fittings - and the saloon would be a charming interior anywhere - with its Morris green brocades and art fabrics. Then the big upper deck is entirely perfection, with its pretty rugs, its big brown PAGE 83 wicker hooded chairs and easy chairs, with their bright yellow and black cushions and pillows in bandana stuffs. But best of all, the Beduin has proved a rattling good sailor, and there can be no happier man on earth than our Rais Fuli, who for the first time in his life is 1st Captain. He has been twice with us as 2d Captain and we have always said he should be captain of our dahabeah when it was built. He is such a fine specimen of a calm, serene Mohammedan, and has a gentle personal dignity I have never seen equalled. He is a Nubian, knows the river thoroughly, and we could trust him with everything we have. The boat will now be his house summer as well as winter - and he will get ￡3. a month and during the summer feed himself - I think I am as pleased as he is. He has chosen an admirable crew - I never saw so good a one on the Nile - and in their brown cardigans with "Beduin" in blue letters across the breast, they look very well. Jan. 13. Made 23 miles - are now lying near Wasta - day calm, with some head wind - heavy storm of wind during the night - very busy settling. Jan. 14. Beautiful warm weather - though my self-registering barometer on my little verandah went down to 40° during the night. Passed Benisoef about noon - ran until 8 o'clock this evening, - made 23 miles today. PAGE 84 Jan. 15th. A long run today - starting at 6 A.M. and bringing up at 7 o'clock P.M. within 3 miles of Golasseheh - busy all day - made 57 miles. Jan. 16. I wakened before it was light this morning and heard the rippling of the water that showed how fast we were slipping along - but, a little after 7 o'clock we ran into a dense fog - I never saw such a sight before on the Nile - and we pulled up awhile until the hot sun had dissipated it. We passed Minieh at 11 o'clock - and Beni Hassan this afternoon and are now lying at Rhodah having made 51 miles. Some high wind today from the right quarter - and we have had to cast the tug off, but the wind has been fitful. Have passed such lovely palm fringed shores. This morning the usual begging saint from Der el-Tayr, or Mountain of the Bird, swam out to us - and demanded the usual toll. The boat is now in perfect order - and I am now resting from my labors. Thermometer registered last night 45° and today at 2 o'clock 72°. I had my little stove lighted and brought into my room for the first time this morning. Jan. 17. Second Sunday after Epiphany. We have only made 20 miles today. There has been but little wind, and what there was, from the wrong quarter. Something was the matter with the tug, and we had to stop for 3 hours to have her tickered. PAGE 85 We are now within 4 miles of Gebel Abou Fedah - day has been overcast, and a little cool. Thermometer last night 42° - today 72°. A remarkable sunset - really the most wonderful and gorgeous in its beauty I ever saw. Jan. 18. A very disappointing day. Thubrons wretched little tug has given out entirely, and been abandoned by us. The Engineer reported early this morning a leak in the boiler - but as that has been the case for several days, it seemed to be no reason that we should not go on in the same slow way. So Theodore went aboard the tug - found that the engineer in order to "see in the boiler" as he said, had taken off the cylinder head, and then found a loose nut kicking about somewhere, and said if he moved their lives would be in danger. There was nothing to do but to leave her, which we did, declining to give the man 2 oars as he wished us to do, to paddle back to Cairo. Day warm and beautiful - sailed for nearly 2 hours in a very light wind and think we have made about 10 miles. On deck until nearly 7 o'clock, watching the radiant moon-rise and the colors on the Gebel Abu-Fedah chain. Jan. 19. We began tracking a little after seven o'clock this morning - a very little south wind made it hard work for our poor fellows - but in spite of it, we have made 9 or 10 miles. The English dahabeah Thames passed us in tow about dark. Our people inquired about our tug, and PAGE 86 they answered they had passed her near Hager Kandil, floating down to Cairo. A pleasant little walk this A.M. along the banks of the Bar Jusef canal - larks singing - wheat to my knees. Jan. 20. A trying day as far as getting on - warm, still and a haze that about noon assumed a rather threatening look. Our fellows have tracked and pulled to the anchor - and in this fashion we have been creeping past the Abu Fedah cliffs this afternoon. A strong north wind sprang up and helped us along, though the weather was so threatening we did not dare hoist a sail. About 6 o'clock the gale broke upon us - but no rain, and we are safely tied up for the night under the lee of a high bank. The air has cleared and the moon shows faintly from a veil of light clouds. Jan. 21. We began sailing at 8 o'clock this morning with a strong north wind - and the Beduin had her first good opportunity to test her true sailing qualities. She behaved splendidly to the great delight of her Captain and her crew, to say nothing of her owner. She sailed on the wind in so fine a fashion, that the crew were enthusiastic. I found the wind too strong on deck, and went below to the entrance deck, where I stood sometime watching the sailors, who were laughing and cheering apostrophising the wind - then the boat - then shaking hands in congratulation. We careered and made more motion than I have ever felt on the PAGE 87 Nile.- but then we had never sailed like that in such a wind before. In the midst of our triumphal progress in making a difficult bend of the river we came in collision with a working or ferry boat, anchored just at the point. Her boom scraped our sides a little to the great distress of Rais Fuli - but no real harm done. In swinging round to avoid as much as possible the shock of the contact, we went aground on the sand - and it was 3 hours before we got off, so that we did not reach Assiut until after 5 P.M. - too late to go into the town - Theodore, Clarence and Jones set off for the P.O. We found waiting for us, the 2 tables from Hatoun's for which we had written - and the box of table linen from Paris. The "Thames" lying opposite Assiut. We made about 30 miles today. Jan. 22. Mary and I took Abdul this morning, and rowed down to the town, and took a carriage there. We made a few little purchases - drove through the bazaars, to the imminent risk it seemed to me of the lives of everybody there - certainly to their great discomfort. These carriages are an innovation. I have never seen them before. In trying to find some flower pots, I came across a young Egyptian in European dress, who got into the carriage with us, and took us to his garden, where he gave us everything that was in bloom, which was not much, as the gardens are at this season practically dead as to flowers. Among other things he gave us 2 remarkable fruits I had never seen before, which he called "Kishta" or cream. It seems it is an imported delicacy PAGE 88 from the West Indies - the Anona squamosa. I got my pots - but we were not allowed to pay for anything - our young host being an amateur gardiner, and as polite and kind as he could be. After many thanks, we left him and came home, it being too late to go to the American College as I had intended, to inquire about the 2 American women doctors who have lately arrived and about whom I wish to know something. There was no wind to get away - in the afternoon the "Ramesis the Great" from up the river, and the "Ramesis" from Cairo arrived, and were near us. On the former were the Case family from Boston, people who were on the Gens, and whom Theodore knew. They came aboard to see the Beduin. An evening of wonderful beauty and color - with a late full moon rising over the placid water. There are splendid trees - palms and scents all about Assiut. Jan. 23d. We are still in sight of Assiut - though we have made 5 miles by tracking and pulling to the anchor - the wind when there was any, being dead ahead. Mary and I have been spending the afternoon on my pleasant little verandah - reading and working. Jan. 24. Third Sunday after Epiphany. A day of almost perfect calm - by tracking and polling and using the occasional little puffs of wind, we have made 15 miles. Such beautiful opalescent effects all day - the whole world done in pearly, pink, gray heat. PAGE 89 Jan. 25. Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o'clock the wind came up, and we got about an hour's sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking and poling, brought us within 10 miles of Tahtah - making 12 miles altogether. The Mena, flying the English flag - and the Elephantine flying the French flag, passed us today - and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°. Jan. 26. A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are tonight 5 miles from Sohag - passed Tahtah at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and exhilerating, that seems to renew one's life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their animals before them, or dragging them PAGE 90 after. It is no unusual thing to see donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing 3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a time. Jan. 27. Started this morning in a strong wind and came to Sohag just as breakfast was ready. Most of the male population of this good looking thriving town were ranged along the bank above us - we had to stop for mail and butter, which took about an hour - and in the mean time we bought some of the bright Akmim cloths which a merchant was displaying on the bank. They used to be made in Akmim, but I suspect they more often now, come from Birmingham, England. The river here makes a very bad turn, and north and south seem to change places. We came to grief here once before in the Herodotus - and again this morning, our delay of an hour resulted in staying all day near Sohag - for the strong wind at last found us on shore about 2 miles above the town - and opposite Akmim. The wind blew a hurricane all day - and all windows and doors had to be closed to keep out the driving fine sand. Towards evening we pulled to the anchor across the river near Akmim - and would rather have been above than below the town - as the cholera raged at this place during the summer. Made 9 miles. Jan. 28. We have made 35 miles today - beginning at 6:30 o'clock with a PAGE 91 fair wind that grew so strong we had to lie by at Balliana for more than 2 hours. Jan. 29. With the exception of Jan. 15, we have made today our best record - 49 miles - and are lying tonight near Keneh. Passed the Philetus - like a dream. Jan. 30. A good wind this morning then sailed and tracked until we tied up for the night, having made 32 miles. Jan. 31. Luxor. Fourth Sunday after Epiphany. We made the intervening 12 miles between our landing place of last night and Luxor at 4:30 - having had a variable light wind all day - sometimes no wind, when we tracked and poled. About 11 o'clock, we descried the streamer of a dahabieh in the distance - then her sails, and the sails of 3 more - to our great delight as we have been thirsting for a foe worthy of our steel. We crept slowly along towards them, making Luxor the same time as the Manhattan, and just behind the Zenet-el Nil, the Sesostris and the Ammon Ra - in front of which last we tied up, just below the Castle. The rest went into the town, and I stayed to enjoy the quiet of our dahabeah and our beautiful deck - and the wonders of the setting sun - and the shadows creeping over the mountains. Heaps of letters and newspapers. PAGE 92 Feb. 3. Luxor. We have had a tremendously high wind for 2 days - yesterday neither Mary nor I stirred from the boat. Although protected by the high bank, we were really buffetted about and the waves race high - everything was kept closed - doors, windows, screens and tambooshes - but in spite of all the dust penetrated everywhere - though to a much less degree than in any other boat I have been on. Across the river, the sand obscured the sight of the mountains at times - and I was sorry for the Cookites, who were swarming on the sands, starting for their various excursions - for 2 or 3 steamers are in - and of course their passengers cannot wait for more favorable weather. Mary and I this morning climbed up the high bank, with the intention of walking back into the country - but our skirts blew over our heads, our hats off our heads - and our eyes were blinded with sand - so that we soon gave up the contest and came home, glad to finish our walk on the sheltered deck. Salah came to see us soon after our arrival, very proud of us, and of our sailing record. He is almost willing to let us beat his Zenet-el Nil -M. Goleinschief's boat, of which he has charge. Old Mohammed Mohassib also came one evening - excessively pleased - and we presented our little gifts to him. Theodore reports Karnak in the hands of the Excavation Society - I have not yet seen it. Mr. Baldwin who is on the Ammon-Ra, with his wife, and son-in-law, Dr. Grinell - was here today. Mrs. Baldwin is very wretched since she came on the river. They want us to start for Assouan when they do. The Fell party on the Zenet-el-Fil go back to Cairo from here - much to Salah's PAGE 93 disgust. This morning we had a visit from Rev. Mr. Huhatt - the English clergyman at Luxor, and Mr. Coulson - they begged us to go to the Luxor Hotel to a "Cinderella Fancy Dress" Ball for the benefit of the little Hospital here. Theodore made no promises, but took several tickets. Ramadan begins today - very early this year. Luxor. Feb. 5. Yesterday afternoon we rode over to Medinet Habout - very warm going - this splendid temple has been much excavated since I saw it last. Today we had our photographs taken by old Beato, who afterwards came into the boat to see it - and was loud in praises of it. Then we pulled across the river to the gizereh, and went again to Medinet, where we had lunch - and afterwards rode over the burning desert to Der el Bahari -leaving Mary at Medinet to finish her sketches It was very hot - and I am well tired tonight. Feb. 6. We did not much want to leave Luxor this morning - but as Mrs. Baldwin has religious scruples about starting on Sunday - it was today or next week - and as Theodore is anxious to test the sailing qualities of the Beduin with the Ammon-Re, Cooks best and largest boat, we left about noon, twenty minutes or more after they were under way - the wind was very light, but in an hour we had easily overtaken and passed her, to the intense disgust of her men, and the delight of our own. Indeed Rais Fuli, with his calm, serene manner repressed the too PAGE 94 exultant manner of our men - though it must have been the triumph of his own life. About 6 o'clock after much tracking we pulled up near Erment where we now are. I was rather sorry to leave Luxor so soon. We had one very busy day while there - to Karnak in the morning - the races in the afternoon - Mr. and Mrs. Huhatt, Mr. and Mrs. Brown - Miss Scott - and Miss Norton, to tea at 5 o'clock, and Laura Billings and her sister and Mr. Fahenstock of New York to dine in the evening. We had a lovely dinner - and I had some splendid red roses from the Luxor Hotel. This morning before leaving, I went to the Roman Catholic Italian Convent, to see if it were possible to arrange for Zenobia, my little arab child here in whom we have been much interested, to enter the school. I had an interview with the Mother Superior, or rather Mary had, for she could speak only Italian. We found the cleanest, quietest place I have ever seen in Luxor - pleasant airy courts, good gardens - and everything so spotlessly clean - the the Superior herself, clean, fat and sweet as she could be - and strongly reminding us of "The Abbess" of Moroni - a photograph of which I brought with me from home. Zenobia, her father, and her sister, now married - the sweet child of 2 years ago, were at the boat this morning. The sister well clothed, in the usual Arab fashion - veiled as becomes a married woman - and Zenobia as pretty and taking, and round and brown, as she used to be. I fear it will be impossible to get her into the Italian school - but I may succeed with the American Mission school when I go down. I would like to lift the child somewhat out of her dirt and poverty. For the first time at Luxor, I rode in one of the carriages, PAGE 95 2 or 3 of which are supplied by the Hotel - and I felt almost ashamed of myself - one doesn't like to see such unnecessary innovations. Feb. 7. Fifth Sunday after Epiphany. We stopped a short time at the Erment garden to get oranges and lemons this morning, and the Ammon-Ra passed ahead - light wind and calms most of the day. We overtook the Ammon-Ra and sailed her out of sight. Tied up at Esneh at 7:30 - but the wind coming out strong at 9 o'clock, we pulled up our stakes, and were off and did not stop until one o'clock, when we pulled up at Al-Kab having made in all 41 miles. The nights have now a wonderful beauty. A little new moon appeared 3 nights ago - and Venus is resplendent - and so is Sirius. Yesterday and today warm. Feb. 8th. Did not sail early this morning - and as we began tracking about 11, the Ammon-Ra appeared in sight. At 2 o'clock we pulled up at Al-Kab, to see Mr. Somers-Clarke - who is living there on his dahabeah at work at excavations. He came on the Beduin for a short visit, and it was quite an hour before we got away, the A.R. being by that time more than a mile in advance - before an hour had gone by, we had caught and passed her. Passed Edfou about 5 o'clock - what beautiful wide country - what splendid great domes of sycamore trees! We have come about 5 miles above Edfou - and have made 24 miles today. The Beduin seems to sail almost without wind - so smoothly she glided along PAGE 96 mile after mile this evening, through the glittering moon lit water, without a ripple, other than she made. Feb. 9. I do not know how we have made 23 miles today - it has been so calm with so little wind - but at 7 o'clock we passed Silsilis, and are now lying 2 miles above - such a perfect night and so warm. We crept silently along by the dangerous Silsileh rocks, as it was growing dark, and I never saw a more beautiful scene - the water without a ripple - everything bathed in moonlight - and Venus almost as bright as the moon. Ammon-Ra came up later and tied up behind us - and before we had finished dinner Dr. and Mrs. Grinell came over. Busy all day, writing and working, having succeeded in rousing myself out of my long indolence. Feb. 10. A hot calm day - a little tracking this A.M. then laid up, with the Ammon-Ra just behind us. Thermometer at 86° in the afternoon. At 7 came a good wind and we were off, and sailed until 9 o'clock - 2 miles above Kom Ombo which was beautiful as we passed it in the moonlight - made 15 miles. Feb. 11. Thuesday. Assouan. Arrived at 10:30 this morning - having started at 6 o'clock, with the Ammon-Ra and Manhattan within sight behind us - and made 23 miles in 4 hours -having lost sight of both boats. Passed the Gazelle PAGE 97 just below Assouan on her way down. Found the "Sesestris", "Istan", "Philetus" and "Thames" here at Elephantine - and now that the "Ammon-Ra" and "Manhattan" have arrived, we make 7 dahabeahs here. The Philetus started this afternoon for the ascent of the Cataract. Sailed in the felucca towards the Cataract, rowing home. This scenery and these rocks never lose in vividness of expression - and the same beautiful afterglow, that I always associate with Assouan. Feb. 12. Went over to Philae by train - Mary and I - with all our entourage of servants and sailors and hampers - Theodore and Clarence following later on their donkeys, in time for lunch. I found Yemma waiting for me, having heard through one of our sailors that we would arrive. He is little grown - and is really a very efficient little guide - Dendowi too, the unapproachable - who appropriated Mary for the day. Newmans not here this year. Mary at once selected an eligible spot for painting and set to work - and after wandering about and photographing all the children and Mohammet the sailor, I established myself in the long colonnade near Mary, out of the sun, and wind - and read - while Jones and Ibrahim got the lunch ready - I made Yemma and the children sing for me - and when I grew tired of their shouting, I begged them to sing me something soft and low - and they sang squatted on the ground about me, the song I always call the cataract song - as one hears it about here all the time - they sang it softly - in a constantly recurring refrain, putting their heads on their hand to express PAGE 98 sleep - I asked Yemma what the song was, and they all replied that it was the "Dongola" song - and when I asked what it meant, Yemma replied that it was a slumber song (though of course these are not his words) that the mother was singing the baby to sleep - and was telling him not to be afraid, although there was war and fighting in Dongola, here it was safe and quiet - to sleep and not fear. I thought it very pretty, but I believe one song is used for various words. After lunch we walked about, and climbed to the roof of the temple - where of course the views were delicious - and the birds eye view of the island gave a very good idea of the extent of Capt. Lyons work and explorations of last year. Dr. and Mrs. Grinnell also lunched out there but they were in Pharaoh's Bed. We came home by one of the Cataract boats -bringing Yemma and Dendowi with us to show them the boat - then sent them back. They were such amusing little guests. Feb 17. Before 5 o'clock this morning, I heard the preparations for departure. Our splendid big boom was taken down the day we spent at Philae - and for 2 or 3 days the boat has been getting ready for her downward journey. We have had a lovely week at Assouan - the pleasantest I have ever known - at our same old landing, with the same views before us, we felt quite at home. Assouan has greatly improved since we were here, the river front has been faced with stone, and steps made here and there to the water. The main street following the river bank is now clean, and quite well built, with some good government houses, PAGE 99 which with the hotel, give a very bright, clean look. It is very quiet almost no soldiers at the garrison - all having gone to the front. I like the air here better than any place along the river - it is so pure and so entirely from the desert, there being so little vegetation here. A day or two after we arrived, Prof. Sayce and Lord Fitz-Hardinge came to call. The Fitz-Hardinges have the little Thames which they built years ago - and Prof. Sayce on his Istar, was just behind us. A nice, entertaining young fellow with the Fitz-Hardinges, Dr. Bridgman, who found him an enthusiastic gardener, and the only person I ever met who could tell me anything about horticulture in Egypt. We had Prof. Sayce one evening to dinner - and found him very interesting -telling us a great many things we wanted to know. We left Lord Fitz-Hardinge very ill - with threatened pneumonia. He has during the past year succeeded to the title, we having formerly known of him as Hon. Mr. Berkeley. With this title which is one of the oldest in England, dating from the time of King Stephen, he has become owner of Berkeley Castle one of the most interesting historical Castles of England, and also to an income of ￡70,00 a year. He has no children, he and his wife are past 60 - have very quiet tastes - devoted to church work - schools and charities, and terribly depressed by this change of fortune, which breaks up old habits, and entails so much state and responsibility for which they have no liking. The next heir, is Lord Berkeley of Oxford - a man no longer young - no children, and who cares only for chemistry and geology - and devoutly dreads the day when he shall succeed. - Next to him is an unmarried woman not young, the oldest of 9 children of a clergyman, who has just 600 ￡s PAGE 100 to spend a year! Prof. Sayce on the Istar, started down at the same time we did this morning - but he told us yesterday, that he would float faster than we could, as his boat is heavy, with a keel - one of the heavy, old fashioned wooden boats, which would not have the ghost of a chance with us in sailing. We have floated against the wind, but with so little progress that at 7 this morning we stopped judging we have made about 15 miles. We are lying in the cove of the bend of the river, at anchor, some distance from shore, with the "Istar" near below, her lights showing hospitably against this desert shore. The night most resplendent, the moon full and the great yellow sand drifts over the mountain sides, glowing with almost as much color as they do by day. I would not have my blinds closed, and slept with all the curtains back from the windows that I might get all the outside beauty possible - and waking several times during the night, I sat up in my bed and looked out at it all. What beautiful, resplendent loneliness! Feb. 18. We made about 3 miles, starting at half past 6 this morning, but this wretched north wind increasing we gave it up, and lay again in the stream as the shore was so sandy - the Istar almost a mile below us. Prof. Sayce sent over a note, asking us to come to tea - which we did going down in the felucca - very hard rowing against the wind, even with the current, and there really were waves. We had a charming visit Prof. S. Showing us some of his interesting works on Egypt - Belzoni's splendid great volume, with hand painted pictures of the temples and PAGE 101 tombs - his rendering of the hieroglyphs, being remarkably accurate, though at that time there was no key to them - and of course he was ignorant of their meaning - and it was like copying any other detail of decoration. The great Napeonic work, of the French Scientific Expedition which I had never seen before - the travels of Ligh, the Englishman a copy of which Howard Amory gave me from his grandfather's library, and others - one an account of travel written by and Italian "del Valle" in 16____. The Istar is a big, old fashioned boat, and looked most comfortable - 20 ft. wide. We and Cooks new boats are 17 ft. This width gives her a beautiful saloon, and a wide corridor to the stern cabin, which is also very large, and fitted as a library - with bookcases to the ceiling - a charming, scholarly room - and here Prof. S. says he really does his work for the whole year. Another wonderful night but the wind as strong as ever - and we are rocking uncomfortably - indeed I never rocked so much on the river as we have been doing all day. Friday. Feb. 19. We began the morning very early with a light wind, but it soon changed into a big blow - and we were soon driven upon the lee bank, where we pounded up and down in the sand, until Theodore suggested an anchor put out at the stern when we were more comfortable. I have just finished reading Stevenson's "South-Sea Sketches", and a second reading of his Vailima Letters - and are now going to read Ebb Tide. A great blow going on. PAGE 102 Feb. 20. I had quite an attack of neuralgia or rheumatism in my back and chest last night, which kept me from sleeping - and finding when my morning cup of tea was brought me at 7 o'clock - that the gale was still blowing and the boat rocking, I decided after having my bath to go back to bed, and have my breakfast. Wind continued all day, and weather hopeless. I began reading Prof. Sayce's "Egypt of the Hebrews". Last night we got away from our lee shore, and took refuge on the opposite side of the river, where we are now lying, more quietly. Read aloud a long time in Milner's "England in Egypt". Feb. 21. Sexagesima Sunday. The men rowed, or we floated all the latter part of the night until 7 this morning, when I saw Kom Ombo directly in front of us. A fine all around view of it, perched so high on its cliff - we pulled up soon, and after breakfast went up to the Temple - it is charming in its height, though not specially interesting; and is certainly very much swept and garnished. The wind falling, we decided not to linger, but pushed off, just as Gage's Steamer "Memphis" was coming up to her landing. Passed the Istar lying by a little below Kom Ombo. This is our 5th day from Assouan, and we have only covered 29 miles. Feb. 22. Monday. We were off before 6 o'clock this morning - rowing - and in the face of the north wind which still holds with more or less fitfullness - PAGE 103 we passed Silsilis about 3 o'clock - but did not stop, as we are so belated. About an hour afterwards we had gained very much upon the Istar - and our men were pulling lustily - when the order from the Rais was suddenly given to stop, and in a moment after, we went rather hard upon a sand bank - which delayed us about an hour - when we went on until 7 o'clock - apparently by the light of Venus, almost as good as a moon. We tied up at a pleasant bank under some scent trees, having come between 3 and 4 miles below Silsilis - making today 15 miles. It is so easy to tell who is keeping Ramadan. Quite a proportion of crew are and they are so solemn and melancholy. Our nice Mathar, the 2d captain, hasn't even a smile - Rais Fuli, and he, and 5 or 6 of the crew, are carefully keeping it. Tuesday. Feb. 23. We have allowed ourselves just a month from today to reach Cairo - there will be so much to do there about changes in the boat, and getting her ready to leave her, that the 10 days between March 23 and April 3d when we leave for Hrindisi will not be more than we need. But this north wind must cease blowing! This morning we started out before 6 - and when Ainely came to my room, she reported the Istar some distance in advance of us, and another dahabeah. We are wondering if it can be the Gazelle, which left Assouan, the day we arrived. Yesterday the Nephtis passed up, with the Duke of Hamilton on board. His own flag I suppose at the mast, yellow, with a grimping lion - very effective. He has only lately succeeded to the title we were told - and jumped from PAGE 104 a lieutenant in the navy to his present titles and possessions. A pleasant thing. Reached El Kab - 36 miles. Wednesday. Feb. 24. Morning calm - did not start until 10 o'clock - as we had hoped to se Mr. Somers-Clarke. I wanted very much to see his boat. But we found he and Prof. Sayce had gone early to the tombs, so after a little inspection of the old town, we came away - and have with difficulty, against a head wind made 15 miles. Thursday. Feb. 25. We floated down 2 miles to Esneh early this morning - and all the rest went off in the felucca to see the temple - which I don't care for - Jones and Henna went marketing - and they all joined us again at the end of the town. Our men have rowed tremendously this afternoon, hoping to bring us to Luxor tonight - but at 11 o'clock the wind grew so strong that we tied up within sight of the Luxor lights - having made 36 miles. Friday. Feb. 26. We came to our old place near the Castle early this morning. High wind has been blowing all day, and I did not ride out to Karnac with them this afternoon - though we walked into town, and I went to the American Mission to ask about the little arab girl "Nubia" and the chances of sending her to school. I saw Mrs. Nichols in her pleasant PAGE 105 clean rooms - and she could not give me any encouragement. Asked her and Mr. Nichols to come to tea this afternoon - and had a very pleasant visit. They are soon going to America for a vacation year, having spent 7 years here. Only 4 dahabeahs here - the Hyksos, Anna, Gamilla, and one other. Mr. Huhatt came to play chess. Saturday, Feb. 27. Today the Cheops, Columbia and Ammon-Ra came down. All went over early to the Tombs of the Kings for the day - I could not face the idea of such a long excursion in this heat - so stayed on the boat all day - and had a rest and did all manner of delightful little independent things. Intensely hot - I had "Nubia" part of the morning with me, but she was such a restless little colt, I had to send her away at 12 o'clock - quite happy with numerous possessions - the chief of which was a pair of red shoes - which Mohammed Schaiyeh, my singer, bought for her in the town. The family came back at 6:30 -powdered with dust, and tired, and clamouring for lemonade and tea - having had a delightful day. The Osiris came in this afternoon and is lying close behind us. Quinquagesima Sunday. Feb. 28. We had thought of getting off today, but there was no wind, and Mr. Baldwin wants us to wait for him tomorrow. I did not leave the boat, in the afternoon the wind very high. Mrs. Constantine Read and her cousin made us a visit, and Mr. Shephard and his sister of the PAGE 106 Hyksos also came. He, the Engineer of the new railroad. Mohammed Mohassib also came. March 1st. Monday. We did not get away until 7 o'clock this morning - and had not lost sight of the town when a very hard north wind sprang up, and after trying to float, gave it up and anchored, until about 4 o'clock, when it came out a little to the south, and we gladly spread our sails, and had soon come to a big turn in the river which brought the wind on our side, so that we could not keep off the bank. Found here tied up, under the same circumstances, the Osiris which left Luxor the day before us, and the Ammon-Ra who got away an hour before us this morning - and here we all are for the night. Two Mecca pilgrims going to Mecca stopped on the bank above us after the sun had gone down, to break the long fast of the day and eat their evening meal. They were dressed entirely in white, and had a donkey, carrying their luggage. March 2d. Tuesday. A very early start this morning and rowing and floating in company with the Ammon-Ra and the Osiris, we reached Keneh about 3 o'clock, and the rest started in the felucca, before we reached the opposite landing for Denderah, and we floated down below and waited for them. Very hot for 2 hours - found the Columbia at Denderah. They reported on coming home, very unruly donkey boys, and very exciting rows with them. All the morning we were just in advance of the Osiris, PAGE 107 and she floated most unpleasantly near us - two or three times we were actually in collision side by side, and great commotion among the crews. Lord St. Oswald is on her. They all came back in an hour and a half, and we floated and rowed 3 or 4 miles farther down - and tied up with strong wind blowing from the north, at 6:30. I enjoyed a walk on deck while they were away - looking at the splendid desert mountains across the river beyond Keneh. What a hot, desolate spot Keneh must have been last summer, when the cholera raged so violently! I have never been in the town but once - and it lies so back from the river that it cannot be well seen. I suppose just now the Mecca pilgrims are crowding them on their way to Mecca - I should like to have ridden into the town today, and out a way upon the Koser road. The descriptions of this desert route have always fascinated me. We think we have made 31 miles today. Wednesday. March 3. This is Ash Wednesday - and the last of the 30 days of Ramadan - for which we are truly thankful - for Rais Fuli - 2 Rais Mattar - Moomond the big Mohammed, and Baken the little sailor, all keep it rigourously. They represent the very pick of the crew - and things will now be more cheerful. This had been a distracting day. Such a mix as we, the Osiris, the Ammon-Ra, the Columbia and several large working boats have been in most of the day. I have never known such an experience - the wind has been from the north most of the time. Our crew have worked splendidly at their oars, and beaten all the others PAGE 108 out and out. It was a splendid triumph. The gale increased and at 5 o'clock we tied up, followed by all the others - and we are strung along the bank, within 2 or 3 miles of Kasr-el Sayd. After we landed we went to visit the Baldwins. We have made 25 miles - and are rolling a little uneasily in the wind. Thursday. March 4. Made about 5 miles early this morning - heavy gale from the north has made it impossible to stir since 8 o'clock. We are 3 miles below Kasr el-Sayd. Friday. March 5. Started at 5 o'clock this morning - and before I got up, while enjoying my book and cup of tea, we passed the bridge at Nagh-el-Hamadi. Ammon-Ra and Osiris ahead of us. Saturday. March 6. Our men began rowing at 1 o'clock this morning - reached Balliana at 10:30 and started immediately for Abydos. That pleasant ride of 7 miles out and 7 back, never seemed so tiresome - for the very worst donkeys of all the notorious bad donkeys of Abydos or rather Balliana fell to our lot. The day was tremendously hot - the natives specially tormenting. I arrived at the temple more dead than alive - and by 3:30 we were in our saddles again - and I came home resolving PAGE 109 never to do that expedition again. The Ammon-Ra and Osiris did not stop - but the Chensu (English) and the Columbia (American Jews) did, and went to the Temple. We are having the most beautiful little new moon imaginable. For the first two nights it had the resplendent beams almost within its bow. The last winter we were here on the river we used constantly to see the Zodiacal lights - but I have not seen it this time. I saw in the Abydos fields today, the most beautiful light vivid green birds - large as our robin, but more slender and elegant. 1st Sunday in Lent. March 7. Made from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. 27-1/2 miles - are now at Akmim. Monday. March 8. Started early, and made Sohag by 9 o'clock - where we stopped to get coal and provisions and our mail. By 11 o'clock P.M. had come 6 miles below Sohag - making the whole day 11 miles. North wind. Tuesday. March 9. Made 2 miles today early - tied up since in a gale - wind a little west of north - so that we are hoping it may move around to the south. We would like so much to have one record day of gentle south wind! Chonsu passed us, being so heavy, she floats fast. Columbia still behind. Had a row in the felucca. PAGE 110 Wednesday. March 10. Early this morning, we managed to make about 10 yards - but the wind increasing we tied up again - and now lying just as we did all day yesterday at the mercy of the wind, blowing across miles of sand. For days the sky has been full of clouds and last evening they were so ominous, that I hoped the night would bring rain, and perhaps break this deadly magic spell of north wind - but it has been even worse today. We have had the boat as tightly closed as possible, but the air everywhere has been thick with this fine, impalpable sand. Thursday. March 11. Still lying at the same spot, and a gale still blowing - impossible to be on deck except for a walk near sunset - so much sand still flying - rugs cushions etc. all folded and packed away. Friday. March 12. Got away at 6 o'clock and rowed and floated until about 10 - when the wind grew into such a sudden gale, we pulled with difficulty to the shore - where some work boats had taken refuge. Soon after the Nephtys, with the Duke of Hamilton, and a tug came down the river, and came to the shore just below us. 3 miles today. Saturday - March 13. Started in a light wind at 6 A.M. at 11 it was blowing such a gale that we tied up at the high cliffs about 2 miles above and opposite PAGE 111 Tahtah. Just where there is a group of palms - and the white little mosque against the yellow cliffs. Luckily it was not a hot day, or the reflection from those towering limestone cliffs would have been insufferable. But how the wind has blown - in our sheltered position however we got no sand. The canvass on the river side, and over the deck, and at the back were put up - leaving the land side with its pretty sights open - and under the hooded seats, the deck was charming for sitting. All the others went to walk, but I took mine on the clean deck. The Columbia came in sight this morning, and drew up just above us. At 6:30 we both went off, in the bright moonlight, the wind having fallen very much - and the men are still rowing. (They rowed until 12:30, thus making 27 miles). Second Sunday in Lent. March 14. Started early rowing. North wind strong most of the day. We are now tied up 2 miles above Assiut - the lights of the town plainly to be seen. Columbia near us. A superb sunset. Monday, March 15. Between marketing, getting in coke, and the mail, we were at Assiut, until after one o'clock. The afternoon a regular gale blowing, made 2 miles at 8 o'clock. PAGE 112 Tuesday. March 16. We are now beginning to calculate the distance made from 1:30 P.M. of each day. Since that time last night we have made 32 miles - and have passed the troublesome Gebel Abufedah, and are anchored in the stream. We have an almost full moon now, and lovely effects this evening. Wednesday. March 17. Made 21 miles - were blown ashore in the strong wind early in the afternoon near Haggi Kandul - and a lot of noisy children and rough looking men hung about the boat making it hideous with their clamour. We got away from that unpleasant neighborhood and floated down until 10 o'clock. Such a radiant night! Thursday. March 18. We have made 25 miles in the last 24 hours - the day being the calmest we have had and the hottest. We were all driven down stairs after luncheon by the heat. Passed Beni Hassan at one o'clock - but did not stop - as we are so belated. Every day Theodore says "tomorrow" I shall telegraph for a tug, if the south sind doesn't come. Each day we hopefully look for it - and we would even welcome a Khamseen. We reached Minieh at 7 o'clock and got our mail, and will lie here all night. The full moon was wonderfully beautiful and the night so soft. A heavy mist however lying along the river. PAGE 113 Friday. March 19. An early start, and rowing and occasional sailing, or lying by when the wind was too strong, has brought us to within 3 miles of Fashen - making since 1:30, 44 miles, or 61-1/2 from Minieh this morning - a strange, wonderful sunset - and a cloudy night. Saturday - March 20. Started at 6 A.M. made Benisoef about 1:30 - and a drifting and sailing delightfully along before a light wind, all the afternoon, we are now lying 7 miles from Wasta, - 54-1/2 miles since 1:30 yesterday, and 25 miles since 1:30 today. Medum in sight. Third Sunday in Lent. March 21st. An early start in a good wind brought us along so surprisingly that we were near Bedrascheen at 10:30, having discovered some minutes before that beautiful view of the dome and slender minarets of Mohammed Ali - shining in the sun above the thick haze, looking like some enchanted palace. The sailing was so fine, and the Beduin showing her paces so splendidly, that we suddenly decided we would not stop for the visit to Sakkarah, and kept on for the Museum landing at Ghizeh. The sky being full of great clouds, very unlike Egypt - all the morning the blue sky making such delightful contrasts with their great swelling white domes, and the pyramids of Lisht, Dashur, and Sakkarah showing splendidly - until quite in a moment the clouds grew dirty and the atmosphere thick, the wind increased, and we were blown to the bank, with PAGE 114 great effort escaping collision with the rocky foundation of a big sakiyeh on the top of which as usual a blindfolded bullock was walking round and round his wheel. Here we have been ever since, the wind growing into a gale, and the opposite shore almost hidden by the clouds of sand blowing across its sandy waste. We are quite sheltered here from it, though we get enough of it as the atmosphere is so charged with it and when in the afternoon it began softly to rain, the drops seemed like mud, and made a fine mess of our clean windows. The waves beat so high and roughly on the lee shore against which we lay, that the two feluccas, were in danger, and our men worked almost stripped, for 2 hours before they were bailed and lifted to a place of safety. In my stern room the uproar was tremendous - Theodore and Clarence went for a walk, but were driven home by the wind and rain, and there was a great fracas on deck, getting everything under canvass, safe from the wet. The men are always so funny with a rain - like children with a snow storm, and never seem quite to know what to do - 67 miles to 1:30 today. At 11 o'clock this evening, I saw two or three stars showing. Monday, March 22d. We attempted to get on this A.M. at 6 o'clock and succeeded only in making a start and were driven to shore about Old Cairo - tremendous wind, and rain almost amounting to hail in the afternoon - and with our new decks so warped, we came to great grief - the boat leaking in many places - so that when Theodore and Clarence came back from Cairo, where they went and had lunch and came back late in the PAGE 115 afternoon - they found us with curtains taken down from the windows, and bowls and pans standing about everywhere. They were so pleased to get home - they were ineffably amiable - said it seemed after Cairo like Paradise. Tuesday. March 23. We made the Museum landing at Ghizeh this morning early - and fortunately we were to have accomplished it - for the wind has increased in violence - it has been a gale all day - and it is cold and disagreeable - a bad March day for any part of the world. We spent a pleasant morning however at the Museum - and had it all to ourselves. Theodore and Clarence have been into Cairo, and report it dismal. Wednesday. March 24. A gale all day - with rain now and then. Morning at the Museum - Salah came out to see us. Thursday. March 25. Very busy all the morning with the various work people coming to the boat. Carpenters, painters, upholsterer, sail makers. Mary and I drove in the afternoon - charming and warmer - Cairo very pretty with flowering shrubs and vines - very quiet and empty. Poor Abdul had been quite ill for some days, and so suffering that we sent for Dr. Sandwith yesterday, who said he must go to the hospital for a few days. So this PAGE 116 morning the men with Jones, took him down in the felucca- being able to go quite to its doors in the boat. He is a great loss to us just at present not being simply the valued servant, but interpreter. Fortunately we have fallen back on Salah, who fortunately has no engagement just now, and comes out to us every day. Excessively warm. I have never been in Cairo when so warm. Friday. March 26. Mrs. Taylor and Florence came this morning and made a visit, and were very pleasant - putting us en rapport with everything in and about Cairo - asking us to dine on Saturday with them at the Gesireh to meet Sir John Scott, who wants to know Theodore, and whom Theodore is very keen to meet. Sir John is Judicial Advisor to the Khedive, and did excellent work in India before coming here to help straighten out Egyptian affairs. In the afternoon went to the races - which were rather slow - met Mrs. Hamilton Lang and her daughter - saw Gen. Kitchener, the Sirdâr and other notables. Fourth Sunday in Lent. March 28. I was ill all day yesterday, and could not go to dinner with Mrs. Taylor - which was reported very pleasant. This afternoon Dr. and Mrs. Sandwith came to tea - and Mrs. Taylor and Florence, and her fiancé Mr. Morice to dine. We had a nice evening. PAGE 117 Tuesday, March 30. Cairo. We came over to Shepheards this afternoon - and are in the corner room we had 5 years ago, when Fielding was with us. Then it was cold and we had a fire in the big sitting room. Now it is so hot, that we have all the windows open at night and shut during the day to keep out the heat. But it is very noisy and smelly. I do not like it, although my balcony opens on the pretty garden. Hotel quite empty - very tired from yesterday - packing and arranging. Wednesday, March 31. Over at the boat which still lies at Ghizeh - and where our Rais intends to stay all summer because it is so much cooler. Delightful drive in the afternoon. Thursday, April 1st. Theodore and Clarence went to the Courts of Justice this morning with Sir John Scott and Mr. Morice, and were much interested. Abdul came back from the hospital, very weak and thin, but almost well. A bothersome time for days getting all the carpets, curtains, stuffs, etc. of the boat safely packed away from dangers of moths and vermin. The boat reeks with the smell of Naphthaline and Camphor. The poor Beduin, so changed - closed and dark, with her thick brown summer awnings enshrouding her - all the men gone but Rais Fuli, and Arbuk, the nice little crew cook, who stays with the Captain - and Abdul, who will live with Fuli on the boat, and look after the inside cleaning - as he PAGE 118 reads and writes English, it will be very convenient for us - and Rais Fuli is immensely glad to have him. The Taylors sailed for Marseilles today in the Clyde. Friday, April 2d. We were obliged to go again to the boat to confer with the old French painter as to the colours for the outside. Then goodbye to all - and a delightful drive. Theodore and Clarence on their horses with us most of the way. The air has been quite delightful for 2 days - all our friends beg us to stay for the charming April weather. We are off tomorrow morning for Alexandria and sail for Brindisi in the afternoon. Rome. Bristol Hotel. April 15. A long interval in this journal. We left Alexandria the afternoon of the 3d in the fine new S.S. Bohemia for Brindisi. Weather very warm - and we were glad of the welcome change which two or three hours at sea brought. Boat very comfortable - but passage rough - almost every one in his bed - I stayed in mine Sunday and Monday - and we landed at Brindisi at 5 o'clock and made our train, because they were complaisant enough to hold our train 40 minutes for us. The long ride to Naples was not so tiring, and seemed more pleasant than usual. So delightful the country seemed in its fresh spring greenness - and the huge vegetable garden which stretches as far as the eye can see, without boundaries, for miles before reaching Naples, is something quite wonderful. Everything planted under the thin foliaged trees, with their garlands PAGE 119 of vines stretching from tree to tree. We found pleasant rooms at the Grand Hotel, but Theodore had taken a cold in crossing, which developed into a light form of grippe, which gave him much suffering and restlessness - and he had the Doctor (Malbrane) who is always so simple and helpful, and stayed in the room all the time, and one day in bed. As the weather was not good, clouds everywhere, Vesuvius and the islands hidden from view most of the time, I stayed at home with Theodore - and on Saturday the 10th he was well enough to come on here - Clarence, Mary, Amilie and Jones spent one day at Pompeii, and Clarence the next day at Vesuvius. We had rooms engaged at the Quirinal, but found them much too small and fortunately having had an offer from the Bristol we came here, which is always my favorite hotel in Rome. But alas, I have since coming here developed the grippe also - and have been in bed and in the house all the time until yesterday, as uncomfortable as I ever remember of being - with Dr. Bull in daily attendance. All the world more or less is in Rome - and to my thinking Holy Week is not the time to visit Rome, unless one is interested in church ceremonies. The pictures in churches covered, many galleries closed etc. Hotel Grande Bretagne. Florence. April 22. We got away from Rome Tuesday the 20th at 9 o'clock in the morning - I was glad to leave - for Mary had taken cold, and we were all under the weather. On Easter Sunday, I was able to drive out 7 miles on the Campagna to the Villa Livia, where we met by invitation Mrs. Elliott, who had asked some of her friends to take tea with us there. PAGE 120 Mrs. Stillman, the once favorite beauty was there - Mr. Larz Anderson - the young Swedish American sculptor Anderson, whose mother lives in Newport was there and others. It was not quite my idea of enjoyment - sitting at 5 o'clock P.M. on rugs on the ground at the top of a windy hill - but Mrs. Elliott's intention was good and kind. The next morning, Theodore, Mary and I went to St. Peters and saw the lovely Melozzo angels and frescoes in the inner sacristy - then drove to the Colosseum and along the Via S. Gregorio, the morning being quite warm and beautiful. Theodore went to lunch with the Elliotts, and in the afternoon Mary and I drove to the Villa Doria Pamphilia, the lovely grounds of which were full of people, it being Easter Monday and a holiday. But the weather had changed and the wind was cold - so we drove to the Piazzo Rusticucci to say goodbye to Mrs. Elliott and had a pleasant visit - meeting for the first time Mr. Elliott - a handsome, rather invalid looking man, whom I liked - especially when he took me on to his roof garden which he cultivates entirely himself, and which has charming views of S. Pietro and the whole quarter. It was gay with vines and climbing roses and flowers and quite fascinating. Clarence met us there, and after tea we all drove home. Mrs. Elliott and her cousin Miss Von Ralem having dined with us the night before. We had a pleasant ride to Florence, found Nettie waiting for us, and who soon went off with Mary. We have pleasant rooms here overlooking the Arno and Ponto Vecchio, and we, that is Theodore and I, have decided to stay here and not go to Venice - Clarence will go alone. PAGE 121 April 24. Saturday. We are having a rainy day - Nettie and I however went for a little shopping this morning - before the rain began - the wind was blowing and the dust flying however. We brought up at Pelotti's where we met Theodore, and looked at many enticing things. Mr. Berenson came to lunch - and after Lieutenant Niblock called - home all the afternoon the rain pouring. Theodore still has a troublesome cold, and I have quite mended. Yesterday morning, Nettie, Theodore and I drove a long time in the lovely Cascine. In the afternoon a visit to the Bardini palace with its fascinating collection, and then a visit to Lizzie - Mary and Clarence have been busy each day doing Florence. This afternoon Clarence went off alone to Venice, charged with the precious things and the mission to the Armenian convent of St. Lazarre. We have done the Uffizzi and Academia, and had a lovely afternoon at San Miniato. Wednesday evening Mrs. Bend and her daughters dined with us, and on Thursday Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. Sunday after Easter. April 25. We are just home from the Victoria Hotel, where we have been dining with Mrs. Bend and spent a pleasant evening with her and her two pretty girls. The day has been lovely - Nettie and I had a delicious morning together at the Pitti - and afterwards went to the church of the Carmine to see the Masaccio frescoes - which I knew well from my photographs - and could therefore intelligently enjoy in detail, despite the darkness of the little chapel where they are, and their faded condition. PAGE 122 Lizzie Buttles and both girls came to lunch, and stayed to tea. After they had gone, Mrs. Baldwin called. I found her simple, pleasant and unaffected - and I enjoyed talking to her. She has asked us to lunch on Tuesday. Monday. April 26. After a morning with Mary and Theodore at the Bargello, among the della Robias and Donatellos - Theodore and I drove out to the Villa Rosa at Fiesole to lunch with Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. A nice scotch woman was there - a Miss Christina Breenner - worker in and writer on education of women. A pleasant visit, and much talking - and a charming drive down the hill and a turn in the Cascine which was quite too lovely - none of the gay throng having arrived - the air so delicious - the birds singing like mad. We had to hurry home, for Mrs. Bend and her girls were coming to tea to meet Lizzie and the girls. Nettie, poor child, detained at home with one of her bad neuralgia headaches - Theodore and I dined alone - and have had a quiet evening, writing letters. Tuesday, April 27. Such a busy day - shopping this morning - lunching at Dr. Baldwins - where we had a delightful visit - and a beautiful luncheon, the house charming - home to meet Nettie for some searching of photographs at Alinaris - then to Lizzies to tea - and Nettie sang for us in splendid voice. Then a drive with Theodore and Mary in the Cascine. Mary came to dine, and Nettie came for her with Hassan in the evening. PAGE 123 Afterwards Theodore and I went up to Mrs. Woodward Haven's rooms to pay a visit and say goodbye. Weather very warm - off tomorrow for Milan. Wednesday. April 28th. A very busy morning with Mary - Lizzie and the girls came to lunch - and at 2 o'clock we had to say goodbye to Lizzie and Mary - and Nettie, Theodore and I started for Milan, which we reached comfortably enough at 10 o'clock - taking possession of our old, pleasant rooms at this Hotel Cavour. Thursday. April 29. Theodore, Nettie and I started out at 10 o'clock for the Brera - where we stayed quite 2 hours - this afternoon Nettie and I drove to the other end of everywhere, to the interesting little church of S. Eustorgio. We found it was a festa, and the little piazza in front of the church full of bazaars and peasants. As the especial picture we wanted to see was near the entrance, we got the wife of the Sacristan to open it for us - the picture is a lovely one of the Madonna enthroned by Borgognone. The 3 different entrances to the church were lined with collections of blind, lame and halt, and the poor things all begging. Then we drove along distance to S. Ambrogio, which I saw some years ago. Here there was a great service going on, and we could see nothing. So we came home, stopping on the way to buy some flowers. What a contrast to Florence - which was literally lined with flowers and roses. Here not a flower for sale on the streets, and hardly any PAGE 124 shops to be found of them. The streets of Milan are now so intersected by tramways that driving is impossible and uncomfortable. We found Lord Fitzhardinge and his party here just on their way up from Egypt, and Dr. Bridgman came to dine with us - and stayed until nearly 12 o'clock - talking continually in his amusing way. They go tomorrow direct to London - Clarence came back from Venice, enthusiastic, in time for dinner. Friday. April 30. This morning we spent at the Poldo, Pozzoli, and Ambrosiana - delightful but tiring. In the afternoon Dr. Bridgman and Clarence and Nettie went to the Brera - afterwards to the Cathedral - and back in time for lunch. It was so pleasant in our sitting room with its big windows opening to the Park, and the sweet fragrant air pouring in, that after tea we walked over, and looked at the trees, and the swans and pheasants. A beautiful soft evening, with great masses of clouds, touched with rosy light, giving promise of rain tomorrow. We start for Turin at 11:30 tomorrow morning. Saturday. May 1st. Turin. Grand Hotel de Turin. We left Milan at 10:30 this morning and arrived here at 2 P.M. After lunch we went immediately to the Musée, to see the Egyptian things we had so long wanted to see. After climbing 2 huge stone staircases we came to the Egyptian department, and looked in for a moment, and then PAGE 125 went on to the next floor very foolishly to see the paintings. Not much that is interesting, though we were much interested in seeing the Bugiardini with the little St. John, almost the exact counterpart of the St. John in Theodore's so called Francia. The subject was the Madonna and Child, adored by the infant St. John and a lovely picture it was. Berenson had written Theodore a year or more ago, that his picture was a Bugiardini and not a Francia and the other day at Fiesole he had shown him the photograph of this Turin picture, and quite convinced him of Bugiardini as the artist. We lingered so long with these pictures that we were too late for the Egyptian gallery - and put our visit off for tomorrow morning. Then we drove about the town, with its handsome well shaded streets and modern houses, and picturesque river bank, and were quite delighted with it - but long before we had finished our drive, one of the horses being rather restive broke his traces, and we were forced to leave the carriage - Nettie and I taking a cab to the hotel, and Theodore and Clarence walking. We are having a dull evening - in our big gloomy rooms - Theodore is not well - seems to have taken cold, and has been sleeping ever since dinner. Monday, May 3d. Hotel Westminster - Paris. Yesterday morning Theodore seemed much better, but not well enough to venture upon a visit to stony, cold galleries. So Nettie and I went off at 10 o'clock for a morning in the Egyptian department. What was our dismay and disgust at finding the Museum did not open until 1 o'clock - PAGE 126 and we starting for Paris at 2:10! So we ordered lunch at 12:30 and immediately afterwards started again for the Musée, intending to drive from there in half an hour to the station, meeting the rest there. On reaching the gallery we deposited our parasols with the custodian and quickly toiled up those great staircases, only to find the doors of the Egyptian department closed! No words could describe our indignation and dismay - we tried bribery - demanded the director, who was not there of course, and baffled and angry we had to return to our hotel - wishing we had gone as usual to Paris by the Basle and Lucerne route. We got away from Turin at 2:30 and found 2 very comfortable compartments reserved for us in the sleeping car - and the afternoon proved delightful. The Scenery was beautiful - grand with splendid effects - I think I never enjoyed a railway ride so much. As with the help of 2 powerful engines we climbed the Mt. Cenis mountain route, it was charming - green smiling plains - snow tipped mountains - streams of rushing, tumbling water pouring down the mountains sides - and every where fascinating Alpine plants growing - such as we try to cultivate in our rock gardens at home, and generally fail in doing. The night was very comfortable - our beds clean - and by 9 o'clock we were established in our familiar apartments here, which we have already occupied twice before. Paris looks quiet. Few Americans here, it is said. Tuesday, May 4. This morning I drove with Theodore away off to the Ave-de la Republique to Calmonts to buy a pair of field glasses for Fuli, and another PAGE 127 for Clarence. It was really cold, with piercing winds - and I was very uncomfortable. We stopped at the Hotel de France at Choiseul to see Mrs. Taylor and Florence - and found them both with bad colds, and made them promise to come and dine this evening. They have just gone home. Wednesday. May 5. A very dreadful thing happened here yesterday - about 4 o'clock in the afternoon: a charity Bazaar was being held in a large building built and often used for such purposes in the Rue Jean Gonjou near the Palais de l'Industrie. At the time it was crowded with people representing the very best element in French society. The Duchesse d'Alençon sister of the Queen of Austria being at the head of it. Suddenly flames broke out, in an instant the light painted wooden roof was in flames, and within 20 minutes the whole thing with nearly 200 of the audience, who did not succeed in in escaping, were all a charred and smoking mass. People escaped without clothing, and shoes. The crowd of waiting carriages did not receive half of their occupants - almost before help could be rendered the thing was over - the Duchesse d'Alençon was burned at her stall, and no remnant of her has been discovered. The streets are almost silent - a pall over the whole city - one thinks, talks, and sees nothing else. Never was a catastrophe so sudden - so complete - so full of horrible details. The weather is bad - cold - rain and even a little snow. PAGE 128 Thursday. May 6. We have plunged into the travail of dress making and shopping which seems almost heartless in this stunned and bereaved city. The daily details of this horrible accident grow worse and more harrowing. The whole civilized world stands aghast. The weather of yesterday repeats itself today, - rain, snow, and cold, cold winds. I am a little wretched - and so is Theodore. Terry Boal arrived today from Thonon - with his wife - having left the baby with his Aunt Sara and Annie at their home in Thonon. They are on their way to America - and why they have left the baby, with the mothers heart rent with grief, no one can say - their plans seem very vague and uncertain. Friday. May 7. This is Theodore's birthday - his 58 birthday. We made a little festa this afternoon, and asked Mrs. Taylor and Florence to tea, and Terry and Mathilde were here. A cold, rainy day - I spent most of the morning in Dr. Bull's office, having my eyes examined - and this afternoon Nettie and I tried to accomplish something, but were driven home by the wind and rain. Florence Talylor came to dinner, and has gone to the Opera with Theodore, Nettie and Clarence, to hear Lohengrin. The theatres have been closed for 2 days, on account of the dreadful catastrophe. This morning, I could hardly drive to the Flower market at the Madeline, on account of the carriages ranged around it, and the front draped in black. This is the day of most of the enterrements - some of the churches are dressed in white, marking the funerals of the young, the others in black. PAGE 129 Fourth Sunday after Easter. May 16. A week or more has gone by, with very little to chronicle, except continued bad and gloomy weather and constant shopping and sight seeing and wrestling with Paris dressmakers and milliners. It has seemed as if the weather were in mourning with the city. The Taylors dined with us last night and said goodbye and Terry and Mathilde come to dine tonight. We are off tomorrow for London, and very glad we all are. We are very much delighted these last days because Theodore has secured the beautiful Chigi Madonna of Botticelli for which he has been bargaining since before we left Rome. He has also stumbled upon a charmingly interesting painting of a Madonna and Child by that rare old Venetian painter the father of the Venetian school, Bartolemmeo Vivarini. He saw it a few days ago at Durand-Ruel's rooms - who had bought it with two or three old Italian daubs at an auction or sale from an old Paris family - he paid 400 dollars for it and evidently did not know its value. It was in a wretched condition - the panel warped and worm eaten. Theodore wanted it from the first and took me and Nettie to see it - we were charmed. Nettie pronounced it excellent and when a day or two after Theodore heard that the Louvre people were looking at it, he decided to buy it and have it transferred to canvas. He paid 1600 dollars for it. The Madonna is seated with the child on her knee - behind her a red curtain hung on a black cord, a gold background, beautifully dulled and reddened by time - signed - PAGE 130 London - Hotel Bristol. Friday - May 21. We came over from Paris last Monday the 17th - had a good but cold crossing - but a comfortable cabin, in which Nettie and I stretched ourselves out, and slept almost the whole way over. We have a gorgeous appartment here, on the first floor. London is very empty of Americans. Everyone is I suppose waiting for the Queen's 60th anniversary of her reign - it will be a great Jubilee - decorations and scaffoldings for seats are going up everywhere. The weather has been very good ever since our arrival - we have been busy shopping for the house and the dahabeah - seeing pictures and driving. Nettie and I go out to Sanderstead Court tomorrow to stay over Sunday with the Wallaces - and Theodore and Clarence go to Oxford to stay over Sunday. Monday. May 24. Nettie and I came back from Sanderstead Court this morning, where we had gone on Saturday to pay a visit to those dear Wallaces. The weather was bright - but a cold north east wind blowing - so that it was a great contrast to our last visit there. There was a pleasant house party - especially an interesting old woman, Miss Ogle of Northumberland and we talked and walked about the park, and the terrace, and investigated the gardens - Nettie sang to them in the evenings, to their great delight. There is such comfort and luxury in these English country houses. Gaspard Farrar came to dinner tonight. PAGE 131 Wednesday evening. May 26. We made our 3d visit to the National Gallery this morning - weather cold and threatening. We have found driving, even in the park, disagreeable. Busy shopping and seeing things. Last evening we dined at Sir William Farrars - and had a charming evening. Sir William in spite of his age and infirmities very interesting and agreeable. To the play this evening: "My Friend the Prince". Very laughable. Sunday - after Ascension. May 30. We spent a delightful day on Thursday. Going out to Sevenoaks where we had lunch at the "Royal Crown" and then drove to Knole - and saw that wonderful house with its picturesque courts and rooms and countless treasurers. Theodore and I were fascinated with the beautiful Persian rugs, which are said to have been in the house since the time of Queen Elizabeth. Then we walked and drove about the great park with its renowned beeches, until it was time to take the train back to London. Fielding was with us. On Friday, Theodore and Clarence went to Sanderstead Court to lunch - the day cold and stormy. Nettie and I went to the National Gallery, and took a drive and in the evening we all went to dine with Fielding and his sister Lady Winifride Cary-Elwes and such a pleasant evening, as they are musical, and Nettie sang a great deal - and it was after 12 o'clock when we came home. On Saturday Fielding and Mr. Cary-Elwes came early, and Nettie sang the PAGE 132 whole morning - they stayed to lunch, and most of the afternoon. Rain all day - Theodore went out to Hothorpe to stay until Monday. This morning, the weather being fairly pleasant, we decided, Nettie, Clarence and I, that we would go to Hampton Court - and ordered a carriage to be ready at 11 o'clock. Waited until half past, when the porter sent word he had not been able to get a carriage, having tried 3 stables. So very wrathfully we gave up Hampton Court, and ordered a hansom for the National Gallery - which we found closed, the policeman saying it was only open on Sunday from 2 to 6. Then we decided to go to Westminster Abbey, where we found the congregation just dispersing, and were told the Abbey was closed on Sunday between services. There was nothing then to do but come home and have lunch and start for Kno Gardens - for which we had ordered a carriage. We spent 2 delightful hours walking about there - and just after we got home, after 6 o'clock, Mrs. Davis, and Terry Boal and Mathilde arrived from Paris. Tuesday evening. June 1st. Nettie departed this morning for Florence. Afterwards Theodore and I went to the stores, and at the top of the first staircase, I met Mrs. Sandwith, just arrived from Cairo, and as she turned away, I saw Theodore speaking to Mr. Somers-Clarke who said he left Cairo a few days since, the thermometer had been 106 in the shade - and a damp heat at that. His boat is lying next the Beduin, at Shubron's yards. We left cards this afternoon on various friends - and settled our final arrangements - packing etc. Mrs. Davis, Clarence, Terry Boal and Mathilde all took an early PAGE 133 dinner, and departed for the Military Tournament - and at this hour 11:30 are not yet home. Lady Winifride and Mr. Cary-Elwes, Lady Agnes and Mr. de Trafford, and Mr. Fielding came to dinner with Theodore, and me at 8 o'clock, and we had a charming, jolly evening. Delightful people. They have just gone. We are off tomorrow at noon for Liverpool and will sail about 5 in the afternoon. 11

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+ S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896. +

PAGE 73 S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896 We sailed at 10 o'clock on Saturday the 14th - Mr. Convers, Mr. Luling and Mr. Jevons were down to see us off. A cold bright morning - and the cold lasted until yesterday - everyone congealed - but we are now in warmer waters - and constant sunshine - I have a large bright room - at a table in which I am writing. The sun looks into my port by day, and the moon by night -for we have fortunately fallen upon the second quarter of the moon. The last thing I do, after having turned out the light at night, is to climb up on the sofa, and take a look at the night, and the wide waste: of blue black water, in which our ship makes its great furrow of dashing white foam - what a beautiful immensity it is, and a grand picture to carry into the oblivion of the night. There are comparatively few passangers - and I have never known such pleasant ones. The Hamilton Fisks of New York - Dr. Doty, the Health Officer of the N. Y. Port, Mrs. Ward Howe Elliot, the daughter of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe - and a Mr. Pratt - now American Consul General at Singapore, and for five years our Minister to Persia - a really cultivated man. We all have tea together in the afternoon, and make very merry - and we have Mrs. Bend of New York and her two daughters at our table. I asked Mr. Pratt how long Benjamin, former Minister to Persia, had lived in that country, and he said 3 years. I said that was rather a short time acquaintance with a country about which to write an exhaustive work. He tole me Benjamin had given great offence to the Shela, and others in his book - and that he had seen absolutely nothing of parts of Persia about which he writes.

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+ Nov. 27. +

PAGE 74 We will reach Genoa in a few hours, and I will gladly say au revoir to the sea for 3 or 4 days. It is very cold this morning, but clear. Until we reached Gibraltar our beautiful balmy weather lasted. We passed the Azoros on the 20th - running very close to the large island of San Miguel - very picturesque with its background of mountains, and the steep slopes, some of them quite cultivated to the top - its pleasant looking houses and villages - and the miles of low grass houses, where immense quantities of pineapples are cultivated. On Monday morning the 23d we reached Gibraltar, and went ashore, despite of some threatening clouds. We took Beatrice Bend in our carriage and went as far as Europa Point, but before we again reached the town, rain began to fall, and there was nothing to do but stop at the wretched Hotel Royal, and wait until it was time to go back to the steamer - and there we waited staring out on the same little square where I spent so many hours doing the same thing two years ago. Theodore went out and bought 3 umbrellas - a pair of overshoes for me, and 3 yards of macintosh cloth for us to sit upon on the wet, unprotected decks of the little tender. From that time until last night the gale has raged - and 3 miserable nights have I spent and 2 days in my forward cabin, tossed up and down. Yesterday morning early the 26, we dropped our anchor in the bay of Naples - and in spite of some rain and a high wind, I went ashore with the rest, and spent a pleasant day. The two Bend girls we took immediately to the Grand Hotel, and found pleasant rooms for them, and by the time Mrs. Bend arrived from the PAGE 75 Custom House, we had ordered luncheon, and made a short visit to the Aquarium. How good that lunch was, and how good the stable land was! Then we said goodbye to our friends, and started back to the steamer - stopping a few moments at Squadriblis to buy some shell things. We have had a quiet night, and are running smoothly this morning.

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+ S.S. Freiderick der Grosser. near Port Said. Dec. 6 +

I am so thankful that this long voyage has almost come to an end - and that we will arrive at Port Said early tomorrow morning - we reached Genoa on the 27 Nov. just too late to catch the only train to Florence at noon - and after a slight delay at the Custom House, made a long journey through the streets of the town to the "Hotel du Pare" a rather attractive looking ancient Villa standing in large grounds with trees, which might be cheerful on a summers day, but on that chill afternoon, dripping with rain, was truly disconsolate. The palatial rooms and halls, with their tiny fires and enormous windows shaking and rattling in the gale, made us thankful we were only going to stop for the night. The next day we were off for Florence at 12 o'clock - which we reached at 7 P.M. - a weary ride - slow and rough, through never ending tunnels. The girls and Hassan were waiting for us, and went with us to the Grande Bretagne, where we were installed in our old appartment. Florence the next day was cold, but bright. I spent the Sunday morning with Mary shopping - I found her chattering Italian like a native. Theodore and Nettie went to the Uffizzi - PAGE 76 Clarence and Jones to do as much of the town as they could. Lizzie and both girls came to breakfast, and the girls stopped to lunch - after which a drive to Fiesole, and the rest of the time with Lizzie in their pretty little appartment, 2 Via Venezia, and then all came home with us to dinner. Berenson also came to dinner, looking very well. The next day we were off to Genoa again, with Mary along and went for the night to the "Hotel Isotta", much more comfortable than the other. At 2 o'clock the next day we went out to the Frederick the Great - and after enormous trouble and anxiety, through the insufficiency and want of order of the North German Lloyd Co. we succeeded at last in getting all our 30 pieces of luggage out of the Custom House and aboard the steamer - and sailed about 5 o'clock the next morning for Naples. We found the steamer very pleasant, but rather durious in her arrangement. Large as she is she only carries 120 first class passengers - but she carries enormous freight to Australia - her decks are charming - the service and the food very poor. Reached Naples the next morning - rain pouring - everyone else went ashore - I stayed at home - Dr. Peabody and family, Mr. Pratt and Dr. Doty arrived in the afternoon. So did the Kaiser Wilhelm, just from New York, a week later than ourselves. We were at last off on the home stretch for Egypt at 6 P.M. Since then the weather has been bad, and heavy seas until today - which is lovely. In my room during most of the voyage from Genoa.

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+ Shepheards Hotel. Cairo. Dec. 9 - 96 +

PAGE 77 We arrived day before yesterday the 7th at 6 P.M. and took possession of our pleasant old appartment facing the street no. 120 et suite. On the evening of the 6th we passed the Damietta light, and the ship steamed slowly and almost imperceptibly along until she dropped anchor at Port Said about 2 o'clock A.M. There was but little sleep to be had - what with the coaling, the babbling and shrieking outside, and the stir inside - and as the night was warm, and all the doors and ports closed because of the coaling, sleep was far from every one. At 6 o'clock Amilie came to call me, and I was glad to give up the struggle and get up. We had little trouble at the Custom House, and were soon in a clean and very comfortable railway carriage for Ismailia, where we got an excellent lunch at the new hotel established lately by Shepheards, and waited for the Cairo train. We find Shepheards practically empty - and this season is to be a bad one for Egypt I fear. The next morning we had a grand disappointment in finding that our boat was a month behind time - painters and carpenters still at work - the boom not raised, and general helplessness. The English foreman of Thubron is quite ineffectual - and Thubron has shown gross negligence and carelessness. Instead of the boat ready, and in sailing order for the 1st of Dec. as the contract calls for - Thubron has evidently given his whole attention to building gunboats up the river. He has been at Dongola for 3 months - and has allowed the Beduin to care for herself. Theodore with admirable patience made PAGE 78 himself master of facts through the dire confusion of falsehoods and incompetency, and then he went for Thubron and his foreman, with such well directed effort and so much energetic talking, that the foreman is scared out of his life, and the workmen are jumping about like monkeys. I am busy all the time now with an hundred practical details.

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+ Sunday, Dec. 13. +

Mary and Clarence have gone off in the carriage with Salah to see the Tombs of the Mameluks and the Khalifs - Theodore, Dr. Doty and Dr. Peabody, have gone on donkeys to see the dahabeah. We go every day to the boat to watch and direct its progress - and we hope to be able to get off by the 1st of January. The great trouble now is that the furniture was not shipped from England until the 6th of Dec.! We have engaged our old cook Hanna - poor Selim having died here not more than a month ago - Hanna speaks no French or English, but as we have engaged a very promising young Nubian as waiter whom Salah knows very well, and who has lived for years in England, we can get on very well. Ibrahim too is engaged as 2d man and laundress - and my Mohammed Ibrahim is going in no capacity that I can think of, except to learn more English, and if he can, to wait and do domestic work. It is impossible now to tell how much English he knows, as he is so shy and frightened when he trys to speak. Theodore gave a dinner last night, and had Dr. Sandwith and Peabody and Doty. Theodore and I had a delicious drive yesterday in the afternoon to the Ghezireh Palace, and walked about the shady avenues PAGE 79 and among the flowers - stopping to return the visit of Dr. Sandwith and Mrs. Sandwith on our way home.

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+ Ghesireh Palace Hotel. Dec. 27. +

We left Shepheards this morning and came over here, to escape the smells and noise of Cairo and are so enchanted with the delicious air and space - our rooms are really palatial - and look out on the beautiful garden - and the sitting room opens on a balcony, which the present hot weather makes quite delightful. The sun was so hot this afternoon that the awning was necessary. The house is practically empty - and it is so enormous, that only in the evening after dinner, when everyone congregated in the big hall, that there seems to be anyone here. We are so busy, trying to help along the boat - and there are so many vexatious delays, that our patience is fairly exhausted. I am amazed at Theodore's apparent patience with Thubron and his unprincipled inefficiency. I have never been so long in Cairo before - and I think I am tired of it - if not of Cairo, certainly of the life of hotels - and the dreary people. It is nice to see the interest and enjoyment of Clarence and Mary in everything. I am well - and quite free from cold for the first time in Cairo.

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+ Jan. 3. +

Second Sunday after Christmas. Still waiting impatiently to get off - some progress has been made during the past week to be sure. The obscure and troublesome - PAGE 80 Jan. 9th - what I intended saying when I began that last sentence, quite a week ago, I have now not the faintest idea. Each day since has been so busy, with tiresome occupations, driving down to the dahabeah through that squalid Boulak-Ramleh quarter - until I am fairly sick with the sight of so much misery that no one can relieve. The long delayed furniture came yesterday - and with much trepidation I saw it unpacked, and if my worst fears were not realized, there were enough disappointments to make it almost unbearable. Chairs too large for the rooms - everything a little too big, or a little too small - the side board entirely forgotten - and I had to get into the carriage with Thubron, and drive to 3 different furniture places before I found a little second hand buffet that freshened and polished, will answer for this winter - then I bought finger bowls, caraffes - liqeur glasses - candlesticks - match boxes - soap dishes etc. etc. etc. Still with all these drawbacks the Beduin is so comfortable and so convenient and pretty, that we are thoroughly happy that on Monday morning we will take possession of her, and at last start up the river. We have had real Cairo winter weather for 10 days - high winds, clouds, occasional sharp rains. These things would not be unbearable - were it not for the discomfort of indoors in such weather. We would never think it possible at home to sit in a room where the thermometer stood at 62° only. But my thermometer has been just there for several days. There is in each of our big rooms, a tiny, ornamented accidental fireplace, between two of the big windows - these are strictly ornamental, and are almost hidden by the magnificent satin draperies of the windows. But two or PAGE 81 three days ago when the wind was high and cold, I asked the waiter if we could have a fire, and it was made, much to the cost of our comfort, for the only draught was out into the room - and if the fuel had been anything but charcoal, the consequences might have been disastrous - as it was, all the wooden mantle was scorched, and the windows had to be opened to clear the room. We learned afterwards that there were no openings at the top to these chimneys - so that the fireplaces were purely pieces of ornamental furniture.

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+ Dahabeah "Beduin". Monday, Jan. 11. 1897. +

We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to Bedrasheen, where we are now lying. Mary and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the Beduin, under convoy of the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o'clock. Just as we reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our "Beduin" stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her go by - and I heard her pronounced the "handsomest craft on the river". Immediately after lunch, when poor Theodore had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us, until we came down. In the midst of it, Mrs. and Miss Taylor arrived for a parting visit. Then there was the "debbil to pay" as dear old Salah would say, as Theodore PAGE 82 discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as Assiut; they had no food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt blessing from us all to the impossible Thubron, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are happy, if not yet in order.

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+ Jan. 12. +

We have made about 18 miles - and are somewhere between Bedreschein and Wasta. The tug proves a worthless thing. She can make about 2 miles with us, an hour, without any assistance from us - but if we have a wind that at all fills our sails, we sail right on to her and she has to cast off. Various "désagrémens" have developed themselves, the most important of which is old Henna, our cook, who was with us for 2 winters on the Herodotus has taken fright at the range in his kitchen, and thinks he can do nothing with it, although he makes much better bread with it, than I have ever known him do before. And, we greatly need the forgotten sideboard - and many rather necessary things have been overlooked. However, we are so pretty and convenient, that we are quite ashamed of ourselves in complaining of anything. My room is entirely charming - and so are all the bedrooms in their pretty chintzs and simple fittings - and the saloon would be a charming interior anywhere - with its Morris green brocades and art fabrics. Then the big upper deck is entirely perfection, with its pretty rugs, its big brown PAGE 83 wicker hooded chairs and easy chairs, with their bright yellow and black cushions and pillows in bandana stuffs. But best of all, the Beduin has proved a rattling good sailor, and there can be no happier man on earth than our Rais Fuli, who for the first time in his life is 1st Captain. He has been twice with us as 2d Captain and we have always said he should be captain of our dahabeah when it was built. He is such a fine specimen of a calm, serene Mohammedan, and has a gentle personal dignity I have never seen equalled. He is a Nubian, knows the river thoroughly, and we could trust him with everything we have. The boat will now be his house summer as well as winter - and he will get ￡3. a month and during the summer feed himself - I think I am as pleased as he is. He has chosen an admirable crew - I never saw so good a one on the Nile - and in their brown cardigans with "Beduin" in blue letters across the breast, they look very well.

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+ Jan. 13. +

Made 23 miles - are now lying near Wasta - day calm, with some head wind - heavy storm of wind during the night - very busy settling.

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+ Jan. 14. +

Beautiful warm weather - though my self-registering barometer on my little verandah went down to 40° during the night. Passed Benisoef about noon - ran until 8 o'clock this evening, - made 23 miles today.

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+ Jan. 15. +

PAGE 84 A long run today - starting at 6 A.M. and bringing up at 7 o'clock P.M. within 3 miles of Golasseheh - busy all day - made 57 miles.

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+ Jan. 16. +

Jan. 16. I wakened before it was light this morning and heard the rippling of the water that showed how fast we were slipping along - but, a little after 7 o'clock we ran into a dense fog - I never saw such a sight before on the Nile - and we pulled up awhile until the hot sun had dissipated it. We passed Minieh at 11 o'clock - and Beni Hassan this afternoon and are now lying at Rhodah having made 51 miles. Some high wind today from the right quarter - and we have had to cast the tug off, but the wind has been fitful. Have passed such lovely palm fringed shores. This morning the usual begging saint from Der el-Tayr, or Mountain of the Bird, swam out to us - and demanded the usual toll. The boat is now in perfect order - and I am now resting from my labors. Thermometer registered last night 45° and today at 2 o'clock 72°. I had my little stove lighted and brought into my room for the first time this morning.

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+ Jan. 17. +

Second Sunday after Epiphany. We have only made 20 miles today. There has been but little wind, and what there was, from the wrong quarter. Something was the matter with the tug, and we had to stop for 3 hours to have her tickered. PAGE 85 We are now within 4 miles of Gebel Abou Fedah - day has been overcast, and a little cool. Thermometer last night 42° - today 72°. A remarkable sunset - really the most wonderful and gorgeous in its beauty I ever saw.

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+ Jan. 18. +

A very disappointing day. Thubrons wretched little tug has given out entirely, and been abandoned by us. The Engineer reported early this morning a leak in the boiler - but as that has been the case for several days, it seemed to be no reason that we should not go on in the same slow way. So Theodore went aboard the tug - found that the engineer in order to "see in the boiler" as he said, had taken off the cylinder head, and then found a loose nut kicking about somewhere, and said if he moved their lives would be in danger. There was nothing to do but to leave her, which we did, declining to give the man 2 oars as he wished us to do, to paddle back to Cairo. Day warm and beautiful - sailed for nearly 2 hours in a very light wind and think we have made about 10 miles. On deck until nearly 7 o'clock, watching the radiant moon-rise and the colors on the Gebel Abu-Fedah chain.

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+ Jan. 19. +

We began tracking a little after seven o'clock this morning - a very little south wind made it hard work for our poor fellows - but in spite of it, we have made 9 or 10 miles. The English dahabeah Thames passed us in tow about dark. Our people inquired about our tug, and PAGE 86 they answered they had passed her near Hager Kandil, floating down to Cairo. A pleasant little walk this A.M. along the banks of the Bar Jusef canal - larks singing - wheat to my knees.

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+ Jan. 20. +

A trying day as far as getting on - warm, still and a haze that about noon assumed a rather threatening look. Our fellows have tracked and pulled to the anchor - and in this fashion we have been creeping past the Abu Fedah cliffs this afternoon. A strong north wind sprang up and helped us along, though the weather was so threatening we did not dare hoist a sail. About 6 o'clock the gale broke upon us - but no rain, and we are safely tied up for the night under the lee of a high bank. The air has cleared and the moon shows faintly from a veil of light clouds.

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+ Jan. 21. +

We began sailing at 8 o'clock this morning with a strong north wind - and the Beduin had her first good opportunity to test her true sailing qualities. She behaved splendidly to the great delight of her Captain and her crew, to say nothing of her owner. She sailed on the wind in so fine a fashion, that the crew were enthusiastic. I found the wind too strong on deck, and went below to the entrance deck, where I stood sometime watching the sailors, who were laughing and cheering apostrophising the wind - then the boat - then shaking hands in congratulation. We careered and made more motion than I have ever felt on the PAGE 87 Nile.- but then we had never sailed like that in such a wind before. In the midst of our triumphal progress in making a difficult bend of the river we came in collision with a working or ferry boat, anchored just at the point. Her boom scraped our sides a little to the great distress of Rais Fuli - but no real harm done. In swinging round to avoid as much as possible the shock of the contact, we went aground on the sand - and it was 3 hours before we got off, so that we did not reach Assiut until after 5 P.M. - too late to go into the town - Theodore, Clarence and Jones set off for the P.O. We found waiting for us, the 2 tables from Hatoun's for which we had written - and the box of table linen from Paris. The "Thames" lying opposite Assiut. We made about 30 miles today.

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+ Jan. 22. +

Mary and I took Abdul this morning, and rowed down to the town, and took a carriage there. We made a few little purchases - drove through the bazaars, to the imminent risk it seemed to me of the lives of everybody there - certainly to their great discomfort. These carriages are an innovation. I have never seen them before. In trying to find some flower pots, I came across a young Egyptian in European dress, who got into the carriage with us, and took us to his garden, where he gave us everything that was in bloom, which was not much, as the gardens are at this season practically dead as to flowers. Among other things he gave us 2 remarkable fruits I had never seen before, which he called "Kishta" or cream. It seems it is an imported delicacy PAGE 88 from the West Indies - the Anona squamosa. I got my pots - but we were not allowed to pay for anything - our young host being an amateur gardiner, and as polite and kind as he could be. After many thanks, we left him and came home, it being too late to go to the American College as I had intended, to inquire about the 2 American women doctors who have lately arrived and about whom I wish to know something. There was no wind to get away - in the afternoon the "Ramesis the Great" from up the river, and the "Ramesis" from Cairo arrived, and were near us. On the former were the Case family from Boston, people who were on the Gens, and whom Theodore knew. They came aboard to see the Beduin. An evening of wonderful beauty and color - with a late full moon rising over the placid water. There are splendid trees - palms and scents all about Assiut.

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+ Jan. 23. +

We are still in sight of Assiut - though we have made 5 miles by tracking and pulling to the anchor - the wind when there was any, being dead ahead. Mary and I have been spending the afternoon on my pleasant little verandah - reading and working.

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+ Jan. 24. +

Third Sunday after Epiphany. A day of almost perfect calm - by tracking and polling and using the occasional little puffs of wind, we have made 15 miles. Such beautiful opalescent effects all day - the whole world done in pearly, pink, gray heat. PAGE 89

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+ Jan. 25. +

Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o'clock the wind came up, and we got about an hour's sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking and poling, brought us within 10 miles of Tahtah - making 12 miles altogether. The Mena, flying the English flag - and the Elephantine flying the French flag, passed us today - and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°.

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+ Jan. 26. +

A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are tonight 5 miles from Sohag - passed Tahtah at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and exhilerating, that seems to renew one's life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their animals before them, or dragging them PAGE 90 after. It is no unusual thing to see donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing 3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a time.

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+ Jan. 27. +

Started this morning in a strong wind and came to Sohag just as breakfast was ready. Most of the male population of this good looking thriving town were ranged along the bank above us - we had to stop for mail and butter, which took about an hour - and in the mean time we bought some of the bright Akmim cloths which a merchant was displaying on the bank. They used to be made in Akmim, but I suspect they more often now, come from Birmingham, England. The river here makes a very bad turn, and north and south seem to change places. We came to grief here once before in the Herodotus - and again this morning, our delay of an hour resulted in staying all day near Sohag - for the strong wind at last found us on shore about 2 miles above the town - and opposite Akmim. The wind blew a hurricane all day - and all windows and doors had to be closed to keep out the driving fine sand. Towards evening we pulled to the anchor across the river near Akmim - and would rather have been above than below the town - as the cholera raged at this place during the summer. Made 9 miles.

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+ Jan. 28. +

We have made 35 miles today - beginning at 6:30 o'clock with a PAGE 91 fair wind that grew so strong we had to lie by at Balliana for more than 2 hours.

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+ Jan. 29. +

With the exception of Jan. 15, we have made today our best record - 49 miles - and are lying tonight near Keneh. Passed the Philetus - like a dream.

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+ Jan. 30. +

A good wind this morning then sailed and tracked until we tied up for the night, having made 32 miles.

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+ Jan. 31. Luxor. Fourth Sunday after Epiphany. +

We made the intervening 12 miles between our landing place of last night and Luxor at 4:30 - having had a variable light wind all day - sometimes no wind, when we tracked and poled. About 11 o'clock, we descried the streamer of a dahabieh in the distance - then her sails, and the sails of 3 more - to our great delight as we have been thirsting for a foe worthy of our steel. We crept slowly along towards them, making Luxor the same time as the Manhattan, and just behind the Zenet-el Nil, the Sesostris and the Ammon Ra - in front of which last we tied up, just below the Castle. The rest went into the town, and I stayed to enjoy the quiet of our dahabeah and our beautiful deck - and the wonders of the setting sun - and the shadows creeping over the mountains. Heaps of letters and newspapers. PAGE 92

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+ Feb. 3. Luxor. +

We have had a tremendously high wind for 2 days - yesterday neither Mary nor I stirred from the boat. Although protected by the high bank, we were really buffetted about and the waves race high - everything was kept closed - doors, windows, screens and tambooshes - but in spite of all the dust penetrated everywhere - though to a much less degree than in any other boat I have been on. Across the river, the sand obscured the sight of the mountains at times - and I was sorry for the Cookites, who were swarming on the sands, starting for their various excursions - for 2 or 3 steamers are in - and of course their passengers cannot wait for more favorable weather. Mary and I this morning climbed up the high bank, with the intention of walking back into the country - but our skirts blew over our heads, our hats off our heads - and our eyes were blinded with sand - so that we soon gave up the contest and came home, glad to finish our walk on the sheltered deck. Salah came to see us soon after our arrival, very proud of us, and of our sailing record. He is almost willing to let us beat his Zenet-el Nil -M. Goleinschief's boat, of which he has charge. Old Mohammed Mohassib also came one evening - excessively pleased - and we presented our little gifts to him. Theodore reports Karnak in the hands of the Excavation Society - I have not yet seen it. Mr. Baldwin who is on the Ammon-Ra, with his wife, and son-in-law, Dr. Grinell - was here today. Mrs. Baldwin is very wretched since she came on the river. They want us to start for Assouan when they do. The Fell party on the Zenet-el-Fil go back to Cairo from here - much to Salah's PAGE 93 disgust. This morning we had a visit from Rev. Mr. Huhatt - the English clergyman at Luxor, and Mr. Coulson - they begged us to go to the Luxor Hotel to a "Cinderella Fancy Dress" Ball for the benefit of the little Hospital here. Theodore made no promises, but took several tickets. Ramadan begins today - very early this year.

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+ Luxor. Feb. 5. +

Yesterday afternoon we rode over to Medinet Habout - very warm going - this splendid temple has been much excavated since I saw it last. Today we had our photographs taken by old Beato, who afterwards came into the boat to see it - and was loud in praises of it. Then we pulled across the river to the gizereh, and went again to Medinet, where we had lunch - and afterwards rode over the burning desert to Der el Bahari -leaving Mary at Medinet to finish her sketches It was very hot - and I am well tired tonight.

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+ Feb. 6. +

We did not much want to leave Luxor this morning - but as Mrs. Baldwin has religious scruples about starting on Sunday - it was today or next week - and as Theodore is anxious to test the sailing qualities of the Beduin with the Ammon-Re, Cooks best and largest boat, we left about noon, twenty minutes or more after they were under way - the wind was very light, but in an hour we had easily overtaken and passed her, to the intense disgust of her men, and the delight of our own. Indeed Rais Fuli, with his calm, serene manner repressed the too PAGE 94 exultant manner of our men - though it must have been the triumph of his own life. About 6 o'clock after much tracking we pulled up near Erment where we now are. I was rather sorry to leave Luxor so soon. We had one very busy day while there - to Karnak in the morning - the races in the afternoon - Mr. and Mrs. Huhatt, Mr. and Mrs. Brown - Miss Scott - and Miss Norton, to tea at 5 o'clock, and Laura Billings and her sister and Mr. Fahenstock of New York to dine in the evening. We had a lovely dinner - and I had some splendid red roses from the Luxor Hotel. This morning before leaving, I went to the Roman Catholic Italian Convent, to see if it were possible to arrange for Zenobia, my little arab child here in whom we have been much interested, to enter the school. I had an interview with the Mother Superior, or rather Mary had, for she could speak only Italian. We found the cleanest, quietest place I have ever seen in Luxor - pleasant airy courts, good gardens - and everything so spotlessly clean - the the Superior herself, clean, fat and sweet as she could be - and strongly reminding us of "The Abbess" of Moroni - a photograph of which I brought with me from home. Zenobia, her father, and her sister, now married - the sweet child of 2 years ago, were at the boat this morning. The sister well clothed, in the usual Arab fashion - veiled as becomes a married woman - and Zenobia as pretty and taking, and round and brown, as she used to be. I fear it will be impossible to get her into the Italian school - but I may succeed with the American Mission school when I go down. I would like to lift the child somewhat out of her dirt and poverty. For the first time at Luxor, I rode in one of the carriages, PAGE 95 2 or 3 of which are supplied by the Hotel - and I felt almost ashamed of myself - one doesn't like to see such unnecessary innovations.

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+ Feb. 7. +

Fifth Sunday after Epiphany. We stopped a short time at the Erment garden to get oranges and lemons this morning, and the Ammon-Ra passed ahead - light wind and calms most of the day. We overtook the Ammon-Ra and sailed her out of sight. Tied up at Esneh at 7:30 - but the wind coming out strong at 9 o'clock, we pulled up our stakes, and were off and did not stop until one o'clock, when we pulled up at Al-Kab having made in all 41 miles. The nights have now a wonderful beauty. A little new moon appeared 3 nights ago - and Venus is resplendent - and so is Sirius. Yesterday and today warm.

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+ Feb. 8th. +

Did not sail early this morning - and as we began tracking about 11, the Ammon-Ra appeared in sight. At 2 o'clock we pulled up at Al-Kab, to see Mr. Somers-Clarke - who is living there on his dahabeah at work at excavations. He came on the Beduin for a short visit, and it was quite an hour before we got away, the A.R. being by that time more than a mile in advance - before an hour had gone by, we had caught and passed her. Passed Edfou about 5 o'clock - what beautiful wide country - what splendid great domes of sycamore trees! We have come about 5 miles above Edfou - and have made 24 miles today. The Beduin seems to sail almost without wind - so smoothly she glided along PAGE 96 mile after mile this evening, through the glittering moon lit water, without a ripple, other than she made.

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+ Feb. 9. +

I do not know how we have made 23 miles today - it has been so calm with so little wind - but at 7 o'clock we passed Silsilis, and are now lying 2 miles above - such a perfect night and so warm. We crept silently along by the dangerous Silsileh rocks, as it was growing dark, and I never saw a more beautiful scene - the water without a ripple - everything bathed in moonlight - and Venus almost as bright as the moon. Ammon-Ra came up later and tied up behind us - and before we had finished dinner Dr. and Mrs. Grinell came over. Busy all day, writing and working, having succeeded in rousing myself out of my long indolence.

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+ Feb. 10. +

A hot calm day - a little tracking this A.M. then laid up, with the Ammon-Ra just behind us. Thermometer at 86° in the afternoon. At 7 came a good wind and we were off, and sailed until 9 o'clock - 2 miles above Kom Ombo which was beautiful as we passed it in the moonlight - made 15 miles.

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+ Feb. 11. +

Thuesday. Assouan. Arrived at 10:30 this morning - having started at 6 o'clock, with the Ammon-Ra and Manhattan within sight behind us - and made 23 miles in 4 hours -having lost sight of both boats. Passed the Gazelle PAGE 97 just below Assouan on her way down. Found the "Sesestris", "Istan", "Philetus" and "Thames" here at Elephantine - and now that the "Ammon-Ra" and "Manhattan" have arrived, we make 7 dahabeahs here. The Philetus started this afternoon for the ascent of the Cataract. Sailed in the felucca towards the Cataract, rowing home. This scenery and these rocks never lose in vividness of expression - and the same beautiful afterglow, that I always associate with Assouan.

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+ Feb. 12. +

Went over to Philae by train - Mary and I - with all our entourage of servants and sailors and hampers - Theodore and Clarence following later on their donkeys, in time for lunch. I found Yemma waiting for me, having heard through one of our sailors that we would arrive. He is little grown - and is really a very efficient little guide - Dendowi too, the unapproachable - who appropriated Mary for the day. Newmans not here this year. Mary at once selected an eligible spot for painting and set to work - and after wandering about and photographing all the children and Mohammet the sailor, I established myself in the long colonnade near Mary, out of the sun, and wind - and read - while Jones and Ibrahim got the lunch ready - I made Yemma and the children sing for me - and when I grew tired of their shouting, I begged them to sing me something soft and low - and they sang squatted on the ground about me, the song I always call the cataract song - as one hears it about here all the time - they sang it softly - in a constantly recurring refrain, putting their heads on their hand to express PAGE 98 sleep - I asked Yemma what the song was, and they all replied that it was the "Dongola" song - and when I asked what it meant, Yemma replied that it was a slumber song (though of course these are not his words) that the mother was singing the baby to sleep - and was telling him not to be afraid, although there was war and fighting in Dongola, here it was safe and quiet - to sleep and not fear. I thought it very pretty, but I believe one song is used for various words. After lunch we walked about, and climbed to the roof of the temple - where of course the views were delicious - and the birds eye view of the island gave a very good idea of the extent of Capt. Lyons work and explorations of last year. Dr. and Mrs. Grinnell also lunched out there but they were in Pharaoh's Bed. We came home by one of the Cataract boats -bringing Yemma and Dendowi with us to show them the boat - then sent them back. They were such amusing little guests.

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+ Feb. 17. +

Before 5 o'clock this morning, I heard the preparations for departure. Our splendid big boom was taken down the day we spent at Philae - and for 2 or 3 days the boat has been getting ready for her downward journey. We have had a lovely week at Assouan - the pleasantest I have ever known - at our same old landing, with the same views before us, we felt quite at home. Assouan has greatly improved since we were here, the river front has been faced with stone, and steps made here and there to the water. The main street following the river bank is now clean, and quite well built, with some good government houses, PAGE 99 which with the hotel, give a very bright, clean look. It is very quiet almost no soldiers at the garrison - all having gone to the front. I like the air here better than any place along the river - it is so pure and so entirely from the desert, there being so little vegetation here. A day or two after we arrived, Prof. Sayce and Lord Fitz-Hardinge came to call. The Fitz-Hardinges have the little Thames which they built years ago - and Prof. Sayce on his Istar, was just behind us. A nice, entertaining young fellow with the Fitz-Hardinges, Dr. Bridgman, who found him an enthusiastic gardener, and the only person I ever met who could tell me anything about horticulture in Egypt. We had Prof. Sayce one evening to dinner - and found him very interesting -telling us a great many things we wanted to know. We left Lord Fitz-Hardinge very ill - with threatened pneumonia. He has during the past year succeeded to the title, we having formerly known of him as Hon. Mr. Berkeley. With this title which is one of the oldest in England, dating from the time of King Stephen, he has become owner of Berkeley Castle one of the most interesting historical Castles of England, and also to an income of ￡70,00 a year. He has no children, he and his wife are past 60 - have very quiet tastes - devoted to church work - schools and charities, and terribly depressed by this change of fortune, which breaks up old habits, and entails so much state and responsibility for which they have no liking. The next heir, is Lord Berkeley of Oxford - a man no longer young - no children, and who cares only for chemistry and geology - and devoutly dreads the day when he shall succeed. - Next to him is an unmarried woman not young, the oldest of 9 children of a clergyman, who has just 600 ￡s PAGE 100 to spend a year! Prof. Sayce on the Istar, started down at the same time we did this morning - but he told us yesterday, that he would float faster than we could, as his boat is heavy, with a keel - one of the heavy, old fashioned wooden boats, which would not have the ghost of a chance with us in sailing. We have floated against the wind, but with so little progress that at 7 this morning we stopped judging we have made about 15 miles. We are lying in the cove of the bend of the river, at anchor, some distance from shore, with the "Istar" near below, her lights showing hospitably against this desert shore. The night most resplendent, the moon full and the great yellow sand drifts over the mountain sides, glowing with almost as much color as they do by day. I would not have my blinds closed, and slept with all the curtains back from the windows that I might get all the outside beauty possible - and waking several times during the night, I sat up in my bed and looked out at it all. What beautiful, resplendent loneliness!

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+ Feb. 18. +

We made about 3 miles, starting at half past 6 this morning, but this wretched north wind increasing we gave it up, and lay again in the stream as the shore was so sandy - the Istar almost a mile below us. Prof. Sayce sent over a note, asking us to come to tea - which we did going down in the felucca - very hard rowing against the wind, even with the current, and there really were waves. We had a charming visit Prof. S. Showing us some of his interesting works on Egypt - Belzoni's splendid great volume, with hand painted pictures of the temples and PAGE 101 tombs - his rendering of the hieroglyphs, being remarkably accurate, though at that time there was no key to them - and of course he was ignorant of their meaning - and it was like copying any other detail of decoration. The great Napeonic work, of the French Scientific Expedition which I had never seen before - the travels of Ligh, the Englishman a copy of which Howard Amory gave me from his grandfather's library, and others - one an account of travel written by and Italian "del Valle" in 16____. The Istar is a big, old fashioned boat, and looked most comfortable - 20 ft. wide. We and Cooks new boats are 17 ft. This width gives her a beautiful saloon, and a wide corridor to the stern cabin, which is also very large, and fitted as a library - with bookcases to the ceiling - a charming, scholarly room - and here Prof. S. says he really does his work for the whole year. Another wonderful night but the wind as strong as ever - and we are rocking uncomfortably - indeed I never rocked so much on the river as we have been doing all day.

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+ Friday. Feb. 19. +

We began the morning very early with a light wind, but it soon changed into a big blow - and we were soon driven upon the lee bank, where we pounded up and down in the sand, until Theodore suggested an anchor put out at the stern when we were more comfortable. I have just finished reading Stevenson's "South-Sea Sketches", and a second reading of his Vailima Letters - and are now going to read Ebb Tide. A great blow going on. PAGE 102

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+ Feb. 20. +

Feb. 20. I had quite an attack of neuralgia or rheumatism in my back and chest last night, which kept me from sleeping - and finding when my morning cup of tea was brought me at 7 o'clock - that the gale was still blowing and the boat rocking, I decided after having my bath to go back to bed, and have my breakfast. Wind continued all day, and weather hopeless. I began reading Prof. Sayce's "Egypt of the Hebrews". Last night we got away from our lee shore, and took refuge on the opposite side of the river, where we are now lying, more quietly. Read aloud a long time in Milner's "England in Egypt".

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+ Feb. 21. Sexagesima Sunday. +

The men rowed, or we floated all the latter part of the night until 7 this morning, when I saw Kom Ombo directly in front of us. A fine all around view of it, perched so high on its cliff - we pulled up soon, and after breakfast went up to the Temple - it is charming in its height, though not specially interesting; and is certainly very much swept and garnished. The wind falling, we decided not to linger, but pushed off, just as Gage's Steamer "Memphis" was coming up to her landing. Passed the Istar lying by a little below Kom Ombo. This is our 5th day from Assouan, and we have only covered 29 miles.

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+ Feb. 22. Monday. +

We were off before 6 o'clock this morning - rowing - and in the face of the north wind which still holds with more or less fitfullness - PAGE 103 we passed Silsilis about 3 o'clock - but did not stop, as we are so belated. About an hour afterwards we had gained very much upon the Istar - and our men were pulling lustily - when the order from the Rais was suddenly given to stop, and in a moment after, we went rather hard upon a sand bank - which delayed us about an hour - when we went on until 7 o'clock - apparently by the light of Venus, almost as good as a moon. We tied up at a pleasant bank under some scent trees, having come between 3 and 4 miles below Silsilis - making today 15 miles. It is so easy to tell who is keeping Ramadan. Quite a proportion of crew are and they are so solemn and melancholy. Our nice Mathar, the 2d captain, hasn't even a smile - Rais Fuli, and he, and 5 or 6 of the crew, are carefully keeping it.

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+ Tuesday Feb. 23. +

We have allowed ourselves just a month from today to reach Cairo - there will be so much to do there about changes in the boat, and getting her ready to leave her, that the 10 days between March 23 and April 3d when we leave for Hrindisi will not be more than we need. But this north wind must cease blowing! This morning we started out before 6 - and when Ainely came to my room, she reported the Istar some distance in advance of us, and another dahabeah. We are wondering if it can be the Gazelle, which left Assouan, the day we arrived. Yesterday the Nephtis passed up, with the Duke of Hamilton on board. His own flag I suppose at the mast, yellow, with a grimping lion - very effective. He has only lately succeeded to the title we were told - and jumped from PAGE 104 a lieutenant in the navy to his present titles and possessions. A pleasant thing. Reached El Kab - 36 miles.

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+ Wednesday. Feb. 24. +

Morning calm - did not start until 10 o'clock - as we had hoped to se Mr. Somers-Clarke. I wanted very much to see his boat. But we found he and Prof. Sayce had gone early to the tombs, so after a little inspection of the old town, we came away - and have with difficulty, against a head wind made 15 miles.

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+ Thursday Feb. 25. +

We floated down 2 miles to Esneh early this morning - and all the rest went off in the felucca to see the temple - which I don't care for - Jones and Henna went marketing - and they all joined us again at the end of the town. Our men have rowed tremendously this afternoon, hoping to bring us to Luxor tonight - but at 11 o'clock the wind grew so strong that we tied up within sight of the Luxor lights - having made 36 miles.

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+ Friday Feb. 26. +

We came to our old place near the Castle early this morning. High wind has been blowing all day, and I did not ride out to Karnac with them this afternoon - though we walked into town, and I went to the American Mission to ask about the little arab girl "Nubia" and the chances of sending her to school. I saw Mrs. Nichols in her pleasant PAGE 105 clean rooms - and she could not give me any encouragement. Asked her and Mr. Nichols to come to tea this afternoon - and had a very pleasant visit. They are soon going to America for a vacation year, having spent 7 years here. Only 4 dahabeahs here - the Hyksos, Anna, Gamilla, and one other. Mr. Huhatt came to play chess.

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+ Saturday, Feb. 27. Today the Cheops, Columbia and Ammon-Ra came down. All went over early to the Tombs of the Kings for the day - I could not face the idea of such a long excursion in this heat - so stayed on the boat all day - and had a rest and did all manner of delightful little independent things. Intensely hot - I had "Nubia" part of the morning with me, but she was such a restless little colt, I had to send her away at 12 o'clock - quite happy with numerous possessions - the chief of which was a pair of red shoes - which Mohammed Schaiyeh, my singer, bought for her in the town. The family came back at 6:30 -powdered with dust, and tired, and clamouring for lemonade and tea - having had a delightful day. The Osiris came in this afternoon and is lying close behind us. Quinquagesima Sunday. Feb. 28. We had thought of getting off today, but there was no wind, and Mr. Baldwin wants us to wait for him tomorrow. I did not leave the boat, in the afternoon the wind very high. Mrs. Constantine Read and her cousin made us a visit, and Mr. Shephard and his sister of the PAGE 106 Hyksos also came. He, the Engineer of the new railroad. Mohammed Mohassib also came. March 1st. Monday. We did not get away until 7 o'clock this morning - and had not lost sight of the town when a very hard north wind sprang up, and after trying to float, gave it up and anchored, until about 4 o'clock, when it came out a little to the south, and we gladly spread our sails, and had soon come to a big turn in the river which brought the wind on our side, so that we could not keep off the bank. Found here tied up, under the same circumstances, the Osiris which left Luxor the day before us, and the Ammon-Ra who got away an hour before us this morning - and here we all are for the night. Two Mecca pilgrims going to Mecca stopped on the bank above us after the sun had gone down, to break the long fast of the day and eat their evening meal. They were dressed entirely in white, and had a donkey, carrying their luggage. March 2d. Tuesday. A very early start this morning and rowing and floating in company with the Ammon-Ra and the Osiris, we reached Keneh about 3 o'clock, and the rest started in the felucca, before we reached the opposite landing for Denderah, and we floated down below and waited for them. Very hot for 2 hours - found the Columbia at Denderah. They reported on coming home, very unruly donkey boys, and very exciting rows with them. All the morning we were just in advance of the Osiris, PAGE 107 and she floated most unpleasantly near us - two or three times we were actually in collision side by side, and great commotion among the crews. Lord St. Oswald is on her. They all came back in an hour and a half, and we floated and rowed 3 or 4 miles farther down - and tied up with strong wind blowing from the north, at 6:30. I enjoyed a walk on deck while they were away - looking at the splendid desert mountains across the river beyond Keneh. What a hot, desolate spot Keneh must have been last summer, when the cholera raged so violently! I have never been in the town but once - and it lies so back from the river that it cannot be well seen. I suppose just now the Mecca pilgrims are crowding them on their way to Mecca - I should like to have ridden into the town today, and out a way upon the Koser road. The descriptions of this desert route have always fascinated me. We think we have made 31 miles today. Wednesday. March 3. This is Ash Wednesday - and the last of the 30 days of Ramadan - for which we are truly thankful - for Rais Fuli - 2 Rais Mattar - Moomond the big Mohammed, and Baken the little sailor, all keep it rigourously. They represent the very pick of the crew - and things will now be more cheerful. This had been a distracting day. Such a mix as we, the Osiris, the Ammon-Ra, the Columbia and several large working boats have been in most of the day. I have never known such an experience - the wind has been from the north most of the time. Our crew have worked splendidly at their oars, and beaten all the others PAGE 108 out and out. It was a splendid triumph. The gale increased and at 5 o'clock we tied up, followed by all the others - and we are strung along the bank, within 2 or 3 miles of Kasr-el Sayd. After we landed we went to visit the Baldwins. We have made 25 miles - and are rolling a little uneasily in the wind. Thursday. March 4. Made about 5 miles early this morning - heavy gale from the north has made it impossible to stir since 8 o'clock. We are 3 miles below Kasr el-Sayd. Friday. March 5. Started at 5 o'clock this morning - and before I got up, while enjoying my book and cup of tea, we passed the bridge at Nagh-el-Hamadi. Ammon-Ra and Osiris ahead of us. Saturday. March 6. Our men began rowing at 1 o'clock this morning - reached Balliana at 10:30 and started immediately for Abydos. That pleasant ride of 7 miles out and 7 back, never seemed so tiresome - for the very worst donkeys of all the notorious bad donkeys of Abydos or rather Balliana fell to our lot. The day was tremendously hot - the natives specially tormenting. I arrived at the temple more dead than alive - and by 3:30 we were in our saddles again - and I came home resolving PAGE 109 never to do that expedition again. The Ammon-Ra and Osiris did not stop - but the Chensu (English) and the Columbia (American Jews) did, and went to the Temple. We are having the most beautiful little new moon imaginable. For the first two nights it had the resplendent beams almost within its bow. The last winter we were here on the river we used constantly to see the Zodiacal lights - but I have not seen it this time. I saw in the Abydos fields today, the most beautiful light vivid green birds - large as our robin, but more slender and elegant. 1st Sunday in Lent. March 7. Made from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. 27-1/2 miles - are now at Akmim. Monday. March 8. Started early, and made Sohag by 9 o'clock - where we stopped to get coal and provisions and our mail. By 11 o'clock P.M. had come 6 miles below Sohag - making the whole day 11 miles. North wind. Tuesday. March 9. Made 2 miles today early - tied up since in a gale - wind a little west of north - so that we are hoping it may move around to the south. We would like so much to have one record day of gentle south wind! Chonsu passed us, being so heavy, she floats fast. Columbia still behind. Had a row in the felucca. PAGE 110 Wednesday. March 10. Early this morning, we managed to make about 10 yards - but the wind increasing we tied up again - and now lying just as we did all day yesterday at the mercy of the wind, blowing across miles of sand. For days the sky has been full of clouds and last evening they were so ominous, that I hoped the night would bring rain, and perhaps break this deadly magic spell of north wind - but it has been even worse today. We have had the boat as tightly closed as possible, but the air everywhere has been thick with this fine, impalpable sand. Thursday. March 11. Still lying at the same spot, and a gale still blowing - impossible to be on deck except for a walk near sunset - so much sand still flying - rugs cushions etc. all folded and packed away. Friday. March 12. Got away at 6 o'clock and rowed and floated until about 10 - when the wind grew into such a sudden gale, we pulled with difficulty to the shore - where some work boats had taken refuge. Soon after the Nephtys, with the Duke of Hamilton, and a tug came down the river, and came to the shore just below us. 3 miles today. Saturday - March 13. Started in a light wind at 6 A.M. at 11 it was blowing such a gale that we tied up at the high cliffs about 2 miles above and opposite PAGE 111 Tahtah. Just where there is a group of palms - and the white little mosque against the yellow cliffs. Luckily it was not a hot day, or the reflection from those towering limestone cliffs would have been insufferable. But how the wind has blown - in our sheltered position however we got no sand. The canvass on the river side, and over the deck, and at the back were put up - leaving the land side with its pretty sights open - and under the hooded seats, the deck was charming for sitting. All the others went to walk, but I took mine on the clean deck. The Columbia came in sight this morning, and drew up just above us. At 6:30 we both went off, in the bright moonlight, the wind having fallen very much - and the men are still rowing. (They rowed until 12:30, thus making 27 miles). Second Sunday in Lent. March 14. Started early rowing. North wind strong most of the day. We are now tied up 2 miles above Assiut - the lights of the town plainly to be seen. Columbia near us. A superb sunset. Monday, March 15. Between marketing, getting in coke, and the mail, we were at Assiut, until after one o'clock. The afternoon a regular gale blowing, made 2 miles at 8 o'clock. PAGE 112 Tuesday. March 16. We are now beginning to calculate the distance made from 1:30 P.M. of each day. Since that time last night we have made 32 miles - and have passed the troublesome Gebel Abufedah, and are anchored in the stream. We have an almost full moon now, and lovely effects this evening. Wednesday. March 17. Made 21 miles - were blown ashore in the strong wind early in the afternoon near Haggi Kandul - and a lot of noisy children and rough looking men hung about the boat making it hideous with their clamour. We got away from that unpleasant neighborhood and floated down until 10 o'clock. Such a radiant night! Thursday. March 18. We have made 25 miles in the last 24 hours - the day being the calmest we have had and the hottest. We were all driven down stairs after luncheon by the heat. Passed Beni Hassan at one o'clock - but did not stop - as we are so belated. Every day Theodore says "tomorrow" I shall telegraph for a tug, if the south sind doesn't come. Each day we hopefully look for it - and we would even welcome a Khamseen. We reached Minieh at 7 o'clock and got our mail, and will lie here all night. The full moon was wonderfully beautiful and the night so soft. A heavy mist however lying along the river. PAGE 113 Friday. March 19. An early start, and rowing and occasional sailing, or lying by when the wind was too strong, has brought us to within 3 miles of Fashen - making since 1:30, 44 miles, or 61-1/2 from Minieh this morning - a strange, wonderful sunset - and a cloudy night. Saturday - March 20. Started at 6 A.M. made Benisoef about 1:30 - and a drifting and sailing delightfully along before a light wind, all the afternoon, we are now lying 7 miles from Wasta, - 54-1/2 miles since 1:30 yesterday, and 25 miles since 1:30 today. Medum in sight. Third Sunday in Lent. March 21st. An early start in a good wind brought us along so surprisingly that we were near Bedrascheen at 10:30, having discovered some minutes before that beautiful view of the dome and slender minarets of Mohammed Ali - shining in the sun above the thick haze, looking like some enchanted palace. The sailing was so fine, and the Beduin showing her paces so splendidly, that we suddenly decided we would not stop for the visit to Sakkarah, and kept on for the Museum landing at Ghizeh. The sky being full of great clouds, very unlike Egypt - all the morning the blue sky making such delightful contrasts with their great swelling white domes, and the pyramids of Lisht, Dashur, and Sakkarah showing splendidly - until quite in a moment the clouds grew dirty and the atmosphere thick, the wind increased, and we were blown to the bank, with PAGE 114 great effort escaping collision with the rocky foundation of a big sakiyeh on the top of which as usual a blindfolded bullock was walking round and round his wheel. Here we have been ever since, the wind growing into a gale, and the opposite shore almost hidden by the clouds of sand blowing across its sandy waste. We are quite sheltered here from it, though we get enough of it as the atmosphere is so charged with it and when in the afternoon it began softly to rain, the drops seemed like mud, and made a fine mess of our clean windows. The waves beat so high and roughly on the lee shore against which we lay, that the two feluccas, were in danger, and our men worked almost stripped, for 2 hours before they were bailed and lifted to a place of safety. In my stern room the uproar was tremendous - Theodore and Clarence went for a walk, but were driven home by the wind and rain, and there was a great fracas on deck, getting everything under canvass, safe from the wet. The men are always so funny with a rain - like children with a snow storm, and never seem quite to know what to do - 67 miles to 1:30 today. At 11 o'clock this evening, I saw two or three stars showing. Monday, March 22d. We attempted to get on this A.M. at 6 o'clock and succeeded only in making a start and were driven to shore about Old Cairo - tremendous wind, and rain almost amounting to hail in the afternoon - and with our new decks so warped, we came to great grief - the boat leaking in many places - so that when Theodore and Clarence came back from Cairo, where they went and had lunch and came back late in the PAGE 115 afternoon - they found us with curtains taken down from the windows, and bowls and pans standing about everywhere. They were so pleased to get home - they were ineffably amiable - said it seemed after Cairo like Paradise. Tuesday. March 23. We made the Museum landing at Ghizeh this morning early - and fortunately we were to have accomplished it - for the wind has increased in violence - it has been a gale all day - and it is cold and disagreeable - a bad March day for any part of the world. We spent a pleasant morning however at the Museum - and had it all to ourselves. Theodore and Clarence have been into Cairo, and report it dismal. Wednesday. March 24. A gale all day - with rain now and then. Morning at the Museum - Salah came out to see us. Thursday. March 25. Very busy all the morning with the various work people coming to the boat. Carpenters, painters, upholsterer, sail makers. Mary and I drove in the afternoon - charming and warmer - Cairo very pretty with flowering shrubs and vines - very quiet and empty. Poor Abdul had been quite ill for some days, and so suffering that we sent for Dr. Sandwith yesterday, who said he must go to the hospital for a few days. So this PAGE 116 morning the men with Jones, took him down in the felucca- being able to go quite to its doors in the boat. He is a great loss to us just at present not being simply the valued servant, but interpreter. Fortunately we have fallen back on Salah, who fortunately has no engagement just now, and comes out to us every day. Excessively warm. I have never been in Cairo when so warm. Friday. March 26. Mrs. Taylor and Florence came this morning and made a visit, and were very pleasant - putting us en rapport with everything in and about Cairo - asking us to dine on Saturday with them at the Gesireh to meet Sir John Scott, who wants to know Theodore, and whom Theodore is very keen to meet. Sir John is Judicial Advisor to the Khedive, and did excellent work in India before coming here to help straighten out Egyptian affairs. In the afternoon went to the races - which were rather slow - met Mrs. Hamilton Lang and her daughter - saw Gen. Kitchener, the Sirdâr and other notables. Fourth Sunday in Lent. March 28. I was ill all day yesterday, and could not go to dinner with Mrs. Taylor - which was reported very pleasant. This afternoon Dr. and Mrs. Sandwith came to tea - and Mrs. Taylor and Florence, and her fiancé Mr. Morice to dine. We had a nice evening. PAGE 117 Tuesday, March 30. Cairo. We came over to Shepheards this afternoon - and are in the corner room we had 5 years ago, when Fielding was with us. Then it was cold and we had a fire in the big sitting room. Now it is so hot, that we have all the windows open at night and shut during the day to keep out the heat. But it is very noisy and smelly. I do not like it, although my balcony opens on the pretty garden. Hotel quite empty - very tired from yesterday - packing and arranging. Wednesday, March 31. Over at the boat which still lies at Ghizeh - and where our Rais intends to stay all summer because it is so much cooler. Delightful drive in the afternoon. Thursday, April 1st. Theodore and Clarence went to the Courts of Justice this morning with Sir John Scott and Mr. Morice, and were much interested. Abdul came back from the hospital, very weak and thin, but almost well. A bothersome time for days getting all the carpets, curtains, stuffs, etc. of the boat safely packed away from dangers of moths and vermin. The boat reeks with the smell of Naphthaline and Camphor. The poor Beduin, so changed - closed and dark, with her thick brown summer awnings enshrouding her - all the men gone but Rais Fuli, and Arbuk, the nice little crew cook, who stays with the Captain - and Abdul, who will live with Fuli on the boat, and look after the inside cleaning - as he PAGE 118 reads and writes English, it will be very convenient for us - and Rais Fuli is immensely glad to have him. The Taylors sailed for Marseilles today in the Clyde. Friday, April 2d. We were obliged to go again to the boat to confer with the old French painter as to the colours for the outside. Then goodbye to all - and a delightful drive. Theodore and Clarence on their horses with us most of the way. The air has been quite delightful for 2 days - all our friends beg us to stay for the charming April weather. We are off tomorrow morning for Alexandria and sail for Brindisi in the afternoon. Rome. Bristol Hotel. April 15. A long interval in this journal. We left Alexandria the afternoon of the 3d in the fine new S.S. Bohemia for Brindisi. Weather very warm - and we were glad of the welcome change which two or three hours at sea brought. Boat very comfortable - but passage rough - almost every one in his bed - I stayed in mine Sunday and Monday - and we landed at Brindisi at 5 o'clock and made our train, because they were complaisant enough to hold our train 40 minutes for us. The long ride to Naples was not so tiring, and seemed more pleasant than usual. So delightful the country seemed in its fresh spring greenness - and the huge vegetable garden which stretches as far as the eye can see, without boundaries, for miles before reaching Naples, is something quite wonderful. Everything planted under the thin foliaged trees, with their garlands PAGE 119 of vines stretching from tree to tree. We found pleasant rooms at the Grand Hotel, but Theodore had taken a cold in crossing, which developed into a light form of grippe, which gave him much suffering and restlessness - and he had the Doctor (Malbrane) who is always so simple and helpful, and stayed in the room all the time, and one day in bed. As the weather was not good, clouds everywhere, Vesuvius and the islands hidden from view most of the time, I stayed at home with Theodore - and on Saturday the 10th he was well enough to come on here - Clarence, Mary, Amilie and Jones spent one day at Pompeii, and Clarence the next day at Vesuvius. We had rooms engaged at the Quirinal, but found them much too small and fortunately having had an offer from the Bristol we came here, which is always my favorite hotel in Rome. But alas, I have since coming here developed the grippe also - and have been in bed and in the house all the time until yesterday, as uncomfortable as I ever remember of being - with Dr. Bull in daily attendance. All the world more or less is in Rome - and to my thinking Holy Week is not the time to visit Rome, unless one is interested in church ceremonies. The pictures in churches covered, many galleries closed etc. Hotel Grande Bretagne. Florence. April 22. We got away from Rome Tuesday the 20th at 9 o'clock in the morning - I was glad to leave - for Mary had taken cold, and we were all under the weather. On Easter Sunday, I was able to drive out 7 miles on the Campagna to the Villa Livia, where we met by invitation Mrs. Elliott, who had asked some of her friends to take tea with us there. PAGE 120 Mrs. Stillman, the once favorite beauty was there - Mr. Larz Anderson - the young Swedish American sculptor Anderson, whose mother lives in Newport was there and others. It was not quite my idea of enjoyment - sitting at 5 o'clock P.M. on rugs on the ground at the top of a windy hill - but Mrs. Elliott's intention was good and kind. The next morning, Theodore, Mary and I went to St. Peters and saw the lovely Melozzo angels and frescoes in the inner sacristy - then drove to the Colosseum and along the Via S. Gregorio, the morning being quite warm and beautiful. Theodore went to lunch with the Elliotts, and in the afternoon Mary and I drove to the Villa Doria Pamphilia, the lovely grounds of which were full of people, it being Easter Monday and a holiday. But the weather had changed and the wind was cold - so we drove to the Piazzo Rusticucci to say goodbye to Mrs. Elliott and had a pleasant visit - meeting for the first time Mr. Elliott - a handsome, rather invalid looking man, whom I liked - especially when he took me on to his roof garden which he cultivates entirely himself, and which has charming views of S. Pietro and the whole quarter. It was gay with vines and climbing roses and flowers and quite fascinating. Clarence met us there, and after tea we all drove home. Mrs. Elliott and her cousin Miss Von Ralem having dined with us the night before. We had a pleasant ride to Florence, found Nettie waiting for us, and who soon went off with Mary. We have pleasant rooms here overlooking the Arno and Ponto Vecchio, and we, that is Theodore and I, have decided to stay here and not go to Venice - Clarence will go alone. PAGE 121 April 24. Saturday. We are having a rainy day - Nettie and I however went for a little shopping this morning - before the rain began - the wind was blowing and the dust flying however. We brought up at Pelotti's where we met Theodore, and looked at many enticing things. Mr. Berenson came to lunch - and after Lieutenant Niblock called - home all the afternoon the rain pouring. Theodore still has a troublesome cold, and I have quite mended. Yesterday morning, Nettie, Theodore and I drove a long time in the lovely Cascine. In the afternoon a visit to the Bardini palace with its fascinating collection, and then a visit to Lizzie - Mary and Clarence have been busy each day doing Florence. This afternoon Clarence went off alone to Venice, charged with the precious things and the mission to the Armenian convent of St. Lazarre. We have done the Uffizzi and Academia, and had a lovely afternoon at San Miniato. Wednesday evening Mrs. Bend and her daughters dined with us, and on Thursday Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. Sunday after Easter. April 25. We are just home from the Victoria Hotel, where we have been dining with Mrs. Bend and spent a pleasant evening with her and her two pretty girls. The day has been lovely - Nettie and I had a delicious morning together at the Pitti - and afterwards went to the church of the Carmine to see the Masaccio frescoes - which I knew well from my photographs - and could therefore intelligently enjoy in detail, despite the darkness of the little chapel where they are, and their faded condition. PAGE 122 Lizzie Buttles and both girls came to lunch, and stayed to tea. After they had gone, Mrs. Baldwin called. I found her simple, pleasant and unaffected - and I enjoyed talking to her. She has asked us to lunch on Tuesday. Monday. April 26. After a morning with Mary and Theodore at the Bargello, among the della Robias and Donatellos - Theodore and I drove out to the Villa Rosa at Fiesole to lunch with Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. A nice scotch woman was there - a Miss Christina Breenner - worker in and writer on education of women. A pleasant visit, and much talking - and a charming drive down the hill and a turn in the Cascine which was quite too lovely - none of the gay throng having arrived - the air so delicious - the birds singing like mad. We had to hurry home, for Mrs. Bend and her girls were coming to tea to meet Lizzie and the girls. Nettie, poor child, detained at home with one of her bad neuralgia headaches - Theodore and I dined alone - and have had a quiet evening, writing letters. Tuesday, April 27. Such a busy day - shopping this morning - lunching at Dr. Baldwins - where we had a delightful visit - and a beautiful luncheon, the house charming - home to meet Nettie for some searching of photographs at Alinaris - then to Lizzies to tea - and Nettie sang for us in splendid voice. Then a drive with Theodore and Mary in the Cascine. Mary came to dine, and Nettie came for her with Hassan in the evening. PAGE 123 Afterwards Theodore and I went up to Mrs. Woodward Haven's rooms to pay a visit and say goodbye. Weather very warm - off tomorrow for Milan. Wednesday. April 28th. A very busy morning with Mary - Lizzie and the girls came to lunch - and at 2 o'clock we had to say goodbye to Lizzie and Mary - and Nettie, Theodore and I started for Milan, which we reached comfortably enough at 10 o'clock - taking possession of our old, pleasant rooms at this Hotel Cavour. Thursday. April 29. Theodore, Nettie and I started out at 10 o'clock for the Brera - where we stayed quite 2 hours - this afternoon Nettie and I drove to the other end of everywhere, to the interesting little church of S. Eustorgio. We found it was a festa, and the little piazza in front of the church full of bazaars and peasants. As the especial picture we wanted to see was near the entrance, we got the wife of the Sacristan to open it for us - the picture is a lovely one of the Madonna enthroned by Borgognone. The 3 different entrances to the church were lined with collections of blind, lame and halt, and the poor things all begging. Then we drove along distance to S. Ambrogio, which I saw some years ago. Here there was a great service going on, and we could see nothing. So we came home, stopping on the way to buy some flowers. What a contrast to Florence - which was literally lined with flowers and roses. Here not a flower for sale on the streets, and hardly any PAGE 124 shops to be found of them. The streets of Milan are now so intersected by tramways that driving is impossible and uncomfortable. We found Lord Fitzhardinge and his party here just on their way up from Egypt, and Dr. Bridgman came to dine with us - and stayed until nearly 12 o'clock - talking continually in his amusing way. They go tomorrow direct to London - Clarence came back from Venice, enthusiastic, in time for dinner. Friday. April 30. This morning we spent at the Poldo, Pozzoli, and Ambrosiana - delightful but tiring. In the afternoon Dr. Bridgman and Clarence and Nettie went to the Brera - afterwards to the Cathedral - and back in time for lunch. It was so pleasant in our sitting room with its big windows opening to the Park, and the sweet fragrant air pouring in, that after tea we walked over, and looked at the trees, and the swans and pheasants. A beautiful soft evening, with great masses of clouds, touched with rosy light, giving promise of rain tomorrow. We start for Turin at 11:30 tomorrow morning. Saturday. May 1st. Turin. Grand Hotel de Turin. We left Milan at 10:30 this morning and arrived here at 2 P.M. After lunch we went immediately to the Musée, to see the Egyptian things we had so long wanted to see. After climbing 2 huge stone staircases we came to the Egyptian department, and looked in for a moment, and then PAGE 125 went on to the next floor very foolishly to see the paintings. Not much that is interesting, though we were much interested in seeing the Bugiardini with the little St. John, almost the exact counterpart of the St. John in Theodore's so called Francia. The subject was the Madonna and Child, adored by the infant St. John and a lovely picture it was. Berenson had written Theodore a year or more ago, that his picture was a Bugiardini and not a Francia and the other day at Fiesole he had shown him the photograph of this Turin picture, and quite convinced him of Bugiardini as the artist. We lingered so long with these pictures that we were too late for the Egyptian gallery - and put our visit off for tomorrow morning. Then we drove about the town, with its handsome well shaded streets and modern houses, and picturesque river bank, and were quite delighted with it - but long before we had finished our drive, one of the horses being rather restive broke his traces, and we were forced to leave the carriage - Nettie and I taking a cab to the hotel, and Theodore and Clarence walking. We are having a dull evening - in our big gloomy rooms - Theodore is not well - seems to have taken cold, and has been sleeping ever since dinner. Monday, May 3d. Hotel Westminster - Paris. Yesterday morning Theodore seemed much better, but not well enough to venture upon a visit to stony, cold galleries. So Nettie and I went off at 10 o'clock for a morning in the Egyptian department. What was our dismay and disgust at finding the Museum did not open until 1 o'clock - PAGE 126 and we starting for Paris at 2:10! So we ordered lunch at 12:30 and immediately afterwards started again for the Musée, intending to drive from there in half an hour to the station, meeting the rest there. On reaching the gallery we deposited our parasols with the custodian and quickly toiled up those great staircases, only to find the doors of the Egyptian department closed! No words could describe our indignation and dismay - we tried bribery - demanded the director, who was not there of course, and baffled and angry we had to return to our hotel - wishing we had gone as usual to Paris by the Basle and Lucerne route. We got away from Turin at 2:30 and found 2 very comfortable compartments reserved for us in the sleeping car - and the afternoon proved delightful. The Scenery was beautiful - grand with splendid effects - I think I never enjoyed a railway ride so much. As with the help of 2 powerful engines we climbed the Mt. Cenis mountain route, it was charming - green smiling plains - snow tipped mountains - streams of rushing, tumbling water pouring down the mountains sides - and every where fascinating Alpine plants growing - such as we try to cultivate in our rock gardens at home, and generally fail in doing. The night was very comfortable - our beds clean - and by 9 o'clock we were established in our familiar apartments here, which we have already occupied twice before. Paris looks quiet. Few Americans here, it is said. Tuesday, May 4. This morning I drove with Theodore away off to the Ave-de la Republique to Calmonts to buy a pair of field glasses for Fuli, and another PAGE 127 for Clarence. It was really cold, with piercing winds - and I was very uncomfortable. We stopped at the Hotel de France at Choiseul to see Mrs. Taylor and Florence - and found them both with bad colds, and made them promise to come and dine this evening. They have just gone home. Wednesday. May 5. A very dreadful thing happened here yesterday - about 4 o'clock in the afternoon: a charity Bazaar was being held in a large building built and often used for such purposes in the Rue Jean Gonjou near the Palais de l'Industrie. At the time it was crowded with people representing the very best element in French society. The Duchesse d'Alençon sister of the Queen of Austria being at the head of it. Suddenly flames broke out, in an instant the light painted wooden roof was in flames, and within 20 minutes the whole thing with nearly 200 of the audience, who did not succeed in in escaping, were all a charred and smoking mass. People escaped without clothing, and shoes. The crowd of waiting carriages did not receive half of their occupants - almost before help could be rendered the thing was over - the Duchesse d'Alençon was burned at her stall, and no remnant of her has been discovered. The streets are almost silent - a pall over the whole city - one thinks, talks, and sees nothing else. Never was a catastrophe so sudden - so complete - so full of horrible details. The weather is bad - cold - rain and even a little snow. PAGE 128 Thursday. May 6. We have plunged into the travail of dress making and shopping which seems almost heartless in this stunned and bereaved city. The daily details of this horrible accident grow worse and more harrowing. The whole civilized world stands aghast. The weather of yesterday repeats itself today, - rain, snow, and cold, cold winds. I am a little wretched - and so is Theodore. Terry Boal arrived today from Thonon - with his wife - having left the baby with his Aunt Sara and Annie at their home in Thonon. They are on their way to America - and why they have left the baby, with the mothers heart rent with grief, no one can say - their plans seem very vague and uncertain. Friday. May 7. This is Theodore's birthday - his 58 birthday. We made a little festa this afternoon, and asked Mrs. Taylor and Florence to tea, and Terry and Mathilde were here. A cold, rainy day - I spent most of the morning in Dr. Bull's office, having my eyes examined - and this afternoon Nettie and I tried to accomplish something, but were driven home by the wind and rain. Florence Talylor came to dinner, and has gone to the Opera with Theodore, Nettie and Clarence, to hear Lohengrin. The theatres have been closed for 2 days, on account of the dreadful catastrophe. This morning, I could hardly drive to the Flower market at the Madeline, on account of the carriages ranged around it, and the front draped in black. This is the day of most of the enterrements - some of the churches are dressed in white, marking the funerals of the young, the others in black. PAGE 129 Fourth Sunday after Easter. May 16. A week or more has gone by, with very little to chronicle, except continued bad and gloomy weather and constant shopping and sight seeing and wrestling with Paris dressmakers and milliners. It has seemed as if the weather were in mourning with the city. The Taylors dined with us last night and said goodbye and Terry and Mathilde come to dine tonight. We are off tomorrow for London, and very glad we all are. We are very much delighted these last days because Theodore has secured the beautiful Chigi Madonna of Botticelli for which he has been bargaining since before we left Rome. He has also stumbled upon a charmingly interesting painting of a Madonna and Child by that rare old Venetian painter the father of the Venetian school, Bartolemmeo Vivarini. He saw it a few days ago at Durand-Ruel's rooms - who had bought it with two or three old Italian daubs at an auction or sale from an old Paris family - he paid 400 dollars for it and evidently did not know its value. It was in a wretched condition - the panel warped and worm eaten. Theodore wanted it from the first and took me and Nettie to see it - we were charmed. Nettie pronounced it excellent and when a day or two after Theodore heard that the Louvre people were looking at it, he decided to buy it and have it transferred to canvas. He paid 1600 dollars for it. The Madonna is seated with the child on her knee - behind her a red curtain hung on a black cord, a gold background, beautifully dulled and reddened by time - signed - PAGE 130 London - Hotel Bristol. Friday - May 21. We came over from Paris last Monday the 17th - had a good but cold crossing - but a comfortable cabin, in which Nettie and I stretched ourselves out, and slept almost the whole way over. We have a gorgeous appartment here, on the first floor. London is very empty of Americans. Everyone is I suppose waiting for the Queen's 60th anniversary of her reign - it will be a great Jubilee - decorations and scaffoldings for seats are going up everywhere. The weather has been very good ever since our arrival - we have been busy shopping for the house and the dahabeah - seeing pictures and driving. Nettie and I go out to Sanderstead Court tomorrow to stay over Sunday with the Wallaces - and Theodore and Clarence go to Oxford to stay over Sunday. Monday. May 24. Nettie and I came back from Sanderstead Court this morning, where we had gone on Saturday to pay a visit to those dear Wallaces. The weather was bright - but a cold north east wind blowing - so that it was a great contrast to our last visit there. There was a pleasant house party - especially an interesting old woman, Miss Ogle of Northumberland and we talked and walked about the park, and the terrace, and investigated the gardens - Nettie sang to them in the evenings, to their great delight. There is such comfort and luxury in these English country houses. Gaspard Farrar came to dinner tonight. PAGE 131 Wednesday evening. May 26. We made our 3d visit to the National Gallery this morning - weather cold and threatening. We have found driving, even in the park, disagreeable. Busy shopping and seeing things. Last evening we dined at Sir William Farrars - and had a charming evening. Sir William in spite of his age and infirmities very interesting and agreeable. To the play this evening: "My Friend the Prince". Very laughable. Sunday - after Ascension. May 30. We spent a delightful day on Thursday. Going out to Sevenoaks where we had lunch at the "Royal Crown" and then drove to Knole - and saw that wonderful house with its picturesque courts and rooms and countless treasurers. Theodore and I were fascinated with the beautiful Persian rugs, which are said to have been in the house since the time of Queen Elizabeth. Then we walked and drove about the great park with its renowned beeches, until it was time to take the train back to London. Fielding was with us. On Friday, Theodore and Clarence went to Sanderstead Court to lunch - the day cold and stormy. Nettie and I went to the National Gallery, and took a drive and in the evening we all went to dine with Fielding and his sister Lady Winifride Cary-Elwes and such a pleasant evening, as they are musical, and Nettie sang a great deal - and it was after 12 o'clock when we came home. On Saturday Fielding and Mr. Cary-Elwes came early, and Nettie sang the PAGE 132 whole morning - they stayed to lunch, and most of the afternoon. Rain all day - Theodore went out to Hothorpe to stay until Monday. This morning, the weather being fairly pleasant, we decided, Nettie, Clarence and I, that we would go to Hampton Court - and ordered a carriage to be ready at 11 o'clock. Waited until half past, when the porter sent word he had not been able to get a carriage, having tried 3 stables. So very wrathfully we gave up Hampton Court, and ordered a hansom for the National Gallery - which we found closed, the policeman saying it was only open on Sunday from 2 to 6. Then we decided to go to Westminster Abbey, where we found the congregation just dispersing, and were told the Abbey was closed on Sunday between services. There was nothing then to do but come home and have lunch and start for Kno Gardens - for which we had ordered a carriage. We spent 2 delightful hours walking about there - and just after we got home, after 6 o'clock, Mrs. Davis, and Terry Boal and Mathilde arrived from Paris. Tuesday evening. June 1st. Nettie departed this morning for Florence. Afterwards Theodore and I went to the stores, and at the top of the first staircase, I met Mrs. Sandwith, just arrived from Cairo, and as she turned away, I saw Theodore speaking to Mr. Somers-Clarke who said he left Cairo a few days since, the thermometer had been 106 in the shade - and a damp heat at that. His boat is lying next the Beduin, at Shubron's yards. We left cards this afternoon on various friends - and settled our final arrangements - packing etc. Mrs. Davis, Clarence, Terry Boal and Mathilde all took an early PAGE 133 dinner, and departed for the Military Tournament - and at this hour 11:30 are not yet home. Lady Winifride and Mr. Cary-Elwes, Lady Agnes and Mr. de Trafford, and Mr. Fielding came to dinner with Theodore, and me at 8 o'clock, and we had a charming, jolly evening. Delightful people. They have just gone. We are off tomorrow at noon for Liverpool and will sail about 5 in the afternoon. 11

From c16f49748665c194ea4047220377806097386514 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: dhreetir Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2021 14:40:40 -0700 Subject: [PATCH 04/15] separated remaining diary entries --- diary-volumes/volume4.xml | 506 ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++---- 1 file changed, 458 insertions(+), 48 deletions(-) diff --git a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml index 1b974f14c..b487b7757 100644 --- a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml +++ b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml @@ -36,193 +36,603 @@
- S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896. + + S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896. +

PAGE 73 S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896 We sailed at 10 o'clock on Saturday the 14th - Mr. Convers, Mr. Luling and Mr. Jevons were down to see us off. A cold bright morning - and the cold lasted until yesterday - everyone congealed - but we are now in warmer waters - and constant sunshine - I have a large bright room - at a table in which I am writing. The sun looks into my port by day, and the moon by night -for we have fortunately fallen upon the second quarter of the moon. The last thing I do, after having turned out the light at night, is to climb up on the sofa, and take a look at the night, and the wide waste: of blue black water, in which our ship makes its great furrow of dashing white foam - what a beautiful immensity it is, and a grand picture to carry into the oblivion of the night. There are comparatively few passangers - and I have never known such pleasant ones. The Hamilton Fisks of New York - Dr. Doty, the Health Officer of the N. Y. Port, Mrs. Ward Howe Elliot, the daughter of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe - and a Mr. Pratt - now American Consul General at Singapore, and for five years our Minister to Persia - a really cultivated man. We all have tea together in the afternoon, and make very merry - and we have Mrs. Bend of New York and her two daughters at our table. I asked Mr. Pratt how long Benjamin, former Minister to Persia, had lived in that country, and he said 3 years. I said that was rather a short time acquaintance with a country about which to write an exhaustive work. He tole me Benjamin had given great offence to the Shela, and others in his book - and that he had seen absolutely nothing of parts of Persia about which he writes.

- Nov. 27. + + Nov. 27. +

PAGE 74 We will reach Genoa in a few hours, and I will gladly say au revoir to the sea for 3 or 4 days. It is very cold this morning, but clear. Until we reached Gibraltar our beautiful balmy weather lasted. We passed the Azoros on the 20th - running very close to the large island of San Miguel - very picturesque with its background of mountains, and the steep slopes, some of them quite cultivated to the top - its pleasant looking houses and villages - and the miles of low grass houses, where immense quantities of pineapples are cultivated. On Monday morning the 23d we reached Gibraltar, and went ashore, despite of some threatening clouds. We took Beatrice Bend in our carriage and went as far as Europa Point, but before we again reached the town, rain began to fall, and there was nothing to do but stop at the wretched Hotel Royal, and wait until it was time to go back to the steamer - and there we waited staring out on the same little square where I spent so many hours doing the same thing two years ago. Theodore went out and bought 3 umbrellas - a pair of overshoes for me, and 3 yards of macintosh cloth for us to sit upon on the wet, unprotected decks of the little tender. From that time until last night the gale has raged - and 3 miserable nights have I spent and 2 days in my forward cabin, tossed up and down. Yesterday morning early the 26, we dropped our anchor in the bay of Naples - and in spite of some rain and a high wind, I went ashore with the rest, and spent a pleasant day. The two Bend girls we took immediately to the Grand Hotel, and found pleasant rooms for them, and by the time Mrs. Bend arrived from the PAGE 75 Custom House, we had ordered luncheon, and made a short visit to the Aquarium. How good that lunch was, and how good the stable land was! Then we said goodbye to our friends, and started back to the steamer - stopping a few moments at Squadriblis to buy some shell things. We have had a quiet night, and are running smoothly this morning.

- S.S. Freiderick der Grosser. near Port Said. Dec. 6 + + S.S. Freiderick der Grosser. near Port Said. Dec. 6 +

I am so thankful that this long voyage has almost come to an end - and that we will arrive at Port Said early tomorrow morning - we reached Genoa on the 27 Nov. just too late to catch the only train to Florence at noon - and after a slight delay at the Custom House, made a long journey through the streets of the town to the "Hotel du Pare" a rather attractive looking ancient Villa standing in large grounds with trees, which might be cheerful on a summers day, but on that chill afternoon, dripping with rain, was truly disconsolate. The palatial rooms and halls, with their tiny fires and enormous windows shaking and rattling in the gale, made us thankful we were only going to stop for the night. The next day we were off for Florence at 12 o'clock - which we reached at 7 P.M. - a weary ride - slow and rough, through never ending tunnels. The girls and Hassan were waiting for us, and went with us to the Grande Bretagne, where we were installed in our old appartment. Florence the next day was cold, but bright. I spent the Sunday morning with Mary shopping - I found her chattering Italian like a native. Theodore and Nettie went to the Uffizzi - PAGE 76 Clarence and Jones to do as much of the town as they could. Lizzie and both girls came to breakfast, and the girls stopped to lunch - after which a drive to Fiesole, and the rest of the time with Lizzie in their pretty little appartment, 2 Via Venezia, and then all came home with us to dinner. Berenson also came to dinner, looking very well. The next day we were off to Genoa again, with Mary along and went for the night to the "Hotel Isotta", much more comfortable than the other. At 2 o'clock the next day we went out to the Frederick the Great - and after enormous trouble and anxiety, through the insufficiency and want of order of the North German Lloyd Co. we succeeded at last in getting all our 30 pieces of luggage out of the Custom House and aboard the steamer - and sailed about 5 o'clock the next morning for Naples. We found the steamer very pleasant, but rather durious in her arrangement. Large as she is she only carries 120 first class passengers - but she carries enormous freight to Australia - her decks are charming - the service and the food very poor. Reached Naples the next morning - rain pouring - everyone else went ashore - I stayed at home - Dr. Peabody and family, Mr. Pratt and Dr. Doty arrived in the afternoon. So did the Kaiser Wilhelm, just from New York, a week later than ourselves. We were at last off on the home stretch for Egypt at 6 P.M. Since then the weather has been bad, and heavy seas until today - which is lovely. In my room during most of the voyage from Genoa.

- Shepheards Hotel. Cairo. Dec. 9 - 96 + + Shepheards Hotel. Cairo. Dec. 9 - 96 +

PAGE 77 We arrived day before yesterday the 7th at 6 P.M. and took possession of our pleasant old appartment facing the street no. 120 et suite. On the evening of the 6th we passed the Damietta light, and the ship steamed slowly and almost imperceptibly along until she dropped anchor at Port Said about 2 o'clock A.M. There was but little sleep to be had - what with the coaling, the babbling and shrieking outside, and the stir inside - and as the night was warm, and all the doors and ports closed because of the coaling, sleep was far from every one. At 6 o'clock Amilie came to call me, and I was glad to give up the struggle and get up. We had little trouble at the Custom House, and were soon in a clean and very comfortable railway carriage for Ismailia, where we got an excellent lunch at the new hotel established lately by Shepheards, and waited for the Cairo train. We find Shepheards practically empty - and this season is to be a bad one for Egypt I fear. The next morning we had a grand disappointment in finding that our boat was a month behind time - painters and carpenters still at work - the boom not raised, and general helplessness. The English foreman of Thubron is quite ineffectual - and Thubron has shown gross negligence and carelessness. Instead of the boat ready, and in sailing order for the 1st of Dec. as the contract calls for - Thubron has evidently given his whole attention to building gunboats up the river. He has been at Dongola for 3 months - and has allowed the Beduin to care for herself. Theodore with admirable patience made PAGE 78 himself master of facts through the dire confusion of falsehoods and incompetency, and then he went for Thubron and his foreman, with such well directed effort and so much energetic talking, that the foreman is scared out of his life, and the workmen are jumping about like monkeys. I am busy all the time now with an hundred practical details.

- Sunday, Dec. 13. + + Sunday, Dec. 13. +

Mary and Clarence have gone off in the carriage with Salah to see the Tombs of the Mameluks and the Khalifs - Theodore, Dr. Doty and Dr. Peabody, have gone on donkeys to see the dahabeah. We go every day to the boat to watch and direct its progress - and we hope to be able to get off by the 1st of January. The great trouble now is that the furniture was not shipped from England until the 6th of Dec.! We have engaged our old cook Hanna - poor Selim having died here not more than a month ago - Hanna speaks no French or English, but as we have engaged a very promising young Nubian as waiter whom Salah knows very well, and who has lived for years in England, we can get on very well. Ibrahim too is engaged as 2d man and laundress - and my Mohammed Ibrahim is going in no capacity that I can think of, except to learn more English, and if he can, to wait and do domestic work. It is impossible now to tell how much English he knows, as he is so shy and frightened when he trys to speak. Theodore gave a dinner last night, and had Dr. Sandwith and Peabody and Doty. Theodore and I had a delicious drive yesterday in the afternoon to the Ghezireh Palace, and walked about the shady avenues PAGE 79 and among the flowers - stopping to return the visit of Dr. Sandwith and Mrs. Sandwith on our way home.

- Ghesireh Palace Hotel. Dec. 27. + + Ghesireh Palace Hotel. Dec. 27. +

We left Shepheards this morning and came over here, to escape the smells and noise of Cairo and are so enchanted with the delicious air and space - our rooms are really palatial - and look out on the beautiful garden - and the sitting room opens on a balcony, which the present hot weather makes quite delightful. The sun was so hot this afternoon that the awning was necessary. The house is practically empty - and it is so enormous, that only in the evening after dinner, when everyone congregated in the big hall, that there seems to be anyone here. We are so busy, trying to help along the boat - and there are so many vexatious delays, that our patience is fairly exhausted. I am amazed at Theodore's apparent patience with Thubron and his unprincipled inefficiency. I have never been so long in Cairo before - and I think I am tired of it - if not of Cairo, certainly of the life of hotels - and the dreary people. It is nice to see the interest and enjoyment of Clarence and Mary in everything. I am well - and quite free from cold for the first time in Cairo.

- Jan. 3. + + Jan. 3. +

Second Sunday after Christmas. Still waiting impatiently to get off - some progress has been made during the past week to be sure. The obscure and troublesome - PAGE 80 Jan. 9th - what I intended saying when I began that last sentence, quite a week ago, I have now not the faintest idea. Each day since has been so busy, with tiresome occupations, driving down to the dahabeah through that squalid Boulak-Ramleh quarter - until I am fairly sick with the sight of so much misery that no one can relieve. The long delayed furniture came yesterday - and with much trepidation I saw it unpacked, and if my worst fears were not realized, there were enough disappointments to make it almost unbearable. Chairs too large for the rooms - everything a little too big, or a little too small - the side board entirely forgotten - and I had to get into the carriage with Thubron, and drive to 3 different furniture places before I found a little second hand buffet that freshened and polished, will answer for this winter - then I bought finger bowls, caraffes - liqeur glasses - candlesticks - match boxes - soap dishes etc. etc. etc. Still with all these drawbacks the Beduin is so comfortable and so convenient and pretty, that we are thoroughly happy that on Monday morning we will take possession of her, and at last start up the river. We have had real Cairo winter weather for 10 days - high winds, clouds, occasional sharp rains. These things would not be unbearable - were it not for the discomfort of indoors in such weather. We would never think it possible at home to sit in a room where the thermometer stood at 62° only. But my thermometer has been just there for several days. There is in each of our big rooms, a tiny, ornamented accidental fireplace, between two of the big windows - these are strictly ornamental, and are almost hidden by the magnificent satin draperies of the windows. But two or PAGE 81 three days ago when the wind was high and cold, I asked the waiter if we could have a fire, and it was made, much to the cost of our comfort, for the only draught was out into the room - and if the fuel had been anything but charcoal, the consequences might have been disastrous - as it was, all the wooden mantle was scorched, and the windows had to be opened to clear the room. We learned afterwards that there were no openings at the top to these chimneys - so that the fireplaces were purely pieces of ornamental furniture.

- Dahabeah "Beduin". Monday, Jan. 11. 1897. + + Dahabeah "Beduin". Monday, Jan. 11. 1897. +

We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to Bedrasheen, where we are now lying. Mary and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the Beduin, under convoy of the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o'clock. Just as we reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our "Beduin" stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her go by - and I heard her pronounced the "handsomest craft on the river". Immediately after lunch, when poor Theodore had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us, until we came down. In the midst of it, Mrs. and Miss Taylor arrived for a parting visit. Then there was the "debbil to pay" as dear old Salah would say, as Theodore PAGE 82 discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as Assiut; they had no food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt blessing from us all to the impossible Thubron, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are happy, if not yet in order.

- Jan. 12. + + Jan. 12. +

We have made about 18 miles - and are somewhere between Bedreschein and Wasta. The tug proves a worthless thing. She can make about 2 miles with us, an hour, without any assistance from us - but if we have a wind that at all fills our sails, we sail right on to her and she has to cast off. Various "désagrémens" have developed themselves, the most important of which is old Henna, our cook, who was with us for 2 winters on the Herodotus has taken fright at the range in his kitchen, and thinks he can do nothing with it, although he makes much better bread with it, than I have ever known him do before. And, we greatly need the forgotten sideboard - and many rather necessary things have been overlooked. However, we are so pretty and convenient, that we are quite ashamed of ourselves in complaining of anything. My room is entirely charming - and so are all the bedrooms in their pretty chintzs and simple fittings - and the saloon would be a charming interior anywhere - with its Morris green brocades and art fabrics. Then the big upper deck is entirely perfection, with its pretty rugs, its big brown PAGE 83 wicker hooded chairs and easy chairs, with their bright yellow and black cushions and pillows in bandana stuffs. But best of all, the Beduin has proved a rattling good sailor, and there can be no happier man on earth than our Rais Fuli, who for the first time in his life is 1st Captain. He has been twice with us as 2d Captain and we have always said he should be captain of our dahabeah when it was built. He is such a fine specimen of a calm, serene Mohammedan, and has a gentle personal dignity I have never seen equalled. He is a Nubian, knows the river thoroughly, and we could trust him with everything we have. The boat will now be his house summer as well as winter - and he will get ￡3. a month and during the summer feed himself - I think I am as pleased as he is. He has chosen an admirable crew - I never saw so good a one on the Nile - and in their brown cardigans with "Beduin" in blue letters across the breast, they look very well.

- Jan. 13. + + Jan. 13. +

Made 23 miles - are now lying near Wasta - day calm, with some head wind - heavy storm of wind during the night - very busy settling.

- Jan. 14. + + Jan. 14. +

Beautiful warm weather - though my self-registering barometer on my little verandah went down to 40° during the night. Passed Benisoef about noon - ran until 8 o'clock this evening, - made 23 miles today.

- Jan. 15. + + Jan. 15. +

PAGE 84 A long run today - starting at 6 A.M. and bringing up at 7 o'clock P.M. within 3 miles of Golasseheh - busy all day - made 57 miles.

- Jan. 16. + + Jan. 16. +

Jan. 16. I wakened before it was light this morning and heard the rippling of the water that showed how fast we were slipping along - but, a little after 7 o'clock we ran into a dense fog - I never saw such a sight before on the Nile - and we pulled up awhile until the hot sun had dissipated it. We passed Minieh at 11 o'clock - and Beni Hassan this afternoon and are now lying at Rhodah having made 51 miles. Some high wind today from the right quarter - and we have had to cast the tug off, but the wind has been fitful. Have passed such lovely palm fringed shores. This morning the usual begging saint from Der el-Tayr, or Mountain of the Bird, swam out to us - and demanded the usual toll. The boat is now in perfect order - and I am now resting from my labors. Thermometer registered last night 45° and today at 2 o'clock 72°. I had my little stove lighted and brought into my room for the first time this morning.

- Jan. 17. + + Jan. 17. +

Second Sunday after Epiphany. We have only made 20 miles today. There has been but little wind, and what there was, from the wrong quarter. Something was the matter with the tug, and we had to stop for 3 hours to have her tickered. PAGE 85 We are now within 4 miles of Gebel Abou Fedah - day has been overcast, and a little cool. Thermometer last night 42° - today 72°. A remarkable sunset - really the most wonderful and gorgeous in its beauty I ever saw.

- Jan. 18. + + Jan. 18. +

A very disappointing day. Thubrons wretched little tug has given out entirely, and been abandoned by us. The Engineer reported early this morning a leak in the boiler - but as that has been the case for several days, it seemed to be no reason that we should not go on in the same slow way. So Theodore went aboard the tug - found that the engineer in order to "see in the boiler" as he said, had taken off the cylinder head, and then found a loose nut kicking about somewhere, and said if he moved their lives would be in danger. There was nothing to do but to leave her, which we did, declining to give the man 2 oars as he wished us to do, to paddle back to Cairo. Day warm and beautiful - sailed for nearly 2 hours in a very light wind and think we have made about 10 miles. On deck until nearly 7 o'clock, watching the radiant moon-rise and the colors on the Gebel Abu-Fedah chain.

- Jan. 19. + + Jan. 19. +

We began tracking a little after seven o'clock this morning - a very little south wind made it hard work for our poor fellows - but in spite of it, we have made 9 or 10 miles. The English dahabeah Thames passed us in tow about dark. Our people inquired about our tug, and PAGE 86 they answered they had passed her near Hager Kandil, floating down to Cairo. A pleasant little walk this A.M. along the banks of the Bar Jusef canal - larks singing - wheat to my knees.

- Jan. 20. + + Jan. 20. +

A trying day as far as getting on - warm, still and a haze that about noon assumed a rather threatening look. Our fellows have tracked and pulled to the anchor - and in this fashion we have been creeping past the Abu Fedah cliffs this afternoon. A strong north wind sprang up and helped us along, though the weather was so threatening we did not dare hoist a sail. About 6 o'clock the gale broke upon us - but no rain, and we are safely tied up for the night under the lee of a high bank. The air has cleared and the moon shows faintly from a veil of light clouds.

- Jan. 21. + + Jan. 21. +

We began sailing at 8 o'clock this morning with a strong north wind - and the Beduin had her first good opportunity to test her true sailing qualities. She behaved splendidly to the great delight of her Captain and her crew, to say nothing of her owner. She sailed on the wind in so fine a fashion, that the crew were enthusiastic. I found the wind too strong on deck, and went below to the entrance deck, where I stood sometime watching the sailors, who were laughing and cheering apostrophising the wind - then the boat - then shaking hands in congratulation. We careered and made more motion than I have ever felt on the PAGE 87 Nile.- but then we had never sailed like that in such a wind before. In the midst of our triumphal progress in making a difficult bend of the river we came in collision with a working or ferry boat, anchored just at the point. Her boom scraped our sides a little to the great distress of Rais Fuli - but no real harm done. In swinging round to avoid as much as possible the shock of the contact, we went aground on the sand - and it was 3 hours before we got off, so that we did not reach Assiut until after 5 P.M. - too late to go into the town - Theodore, Clarence and Jones set off for the P.O. We found waiting for us, the 2 tables from Hatoun's for which we had written - and the box of table linen from Paris. The "Thames" lying opposite Assiut. We made about 30 miles today.

- Jan. 22. + + Jan. 22. +

Mary and I took Abdul this morning, and rowed down to the town, and took a carriage there. We made a few little purchases - drove through the bazaars, to the imminent risk it seemed to me of the lives of everybody there - certainly to their great discomfort. These carriages are an innovation. I have never seen them before. In trying to find some flower pots, I came across a young Egyptian in European dress, who got into the carriage with us, and took us to his garden, where he gave us everything that was in bloom, which was not much, as the gardens are at this season practically dead as to flowers. Among other things he gave us 2 remarkable fruits I had never seen before, which he called "Kishta" or cream. It seems it is an imported delicacy PAGE 88 from the West Indies - the Anona squamosa. I got my pots - but we were not allowed to pay for anything - our young host being an amateur gardiner, and as polite and kind as he could be. After many thanks, we left him and came home, it being too late to go to the American College as I had intended, to inquire about the 2 American women doctors who have lately arrived and about whom I wish to know something. There was no wind to get away - in the afternoon the "Ramesis the Great" from up the river, and the "Ramesis" from Cairo arrived, and were near us. On the former were the Case family from Boston, people who were on the Gens, and whom Theodore knew. They came aboard to see the Beduin. An evening of wonderful beauty and color - with a late full moon rising over the placid water. There are splendid trees - palms and scents all about Assiut.

- Jan. 23. + + Jan. 23. +

We are still in sight of Assiut - though we have made 5 miles by tracking and pulling to the anchor - the wind when there was any, being dead ahead. Mary and I have been spending the afternoon on my pleasant little verandah - reading and working.

- Jan. 24. + + Jan. 24. +

Third Sunday after Epiphany. A day of almost perfect calm - by tracking and polling and using the occasional little puffs of wind, we have made 15 miles. Such beautiful opalescent effects all day - the whole world done in pearly, pink, gray heat. PAGE 89

- Jan. 25. + + Jan. 25. +

Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o'clock the wind came up, and we got about an hour's sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking and poling, brought us within 10 miles of Tahtah - making 12 miles altogether. The Mena, flying the English flag - and the Elephantine flying the French flag, passed us today - and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°.

- Jan. 26. + + Jan. 26. +

A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are tonight 5 miles from Sohag - passed Tahtah at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and exhilerating, that seems to renew one's life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their animals before them, or dragging them PAGE 90 after. It is no unusual thing to see donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing 3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a time.

- Jan. 27. + + Jan. 27. +

Started this morning in a strong wind and came to Sohag just as breakfast was ready. Most of the male population of this good looking thriving town were ranged along the bank above us - we had to stop for mail and butter, which took about an hour - and in the mean time we bought some of the bright Akmim cloths which a merchant was displaying on the bank. They used to be made in Akmim, but I suspect they more often now, come from Birmingham, England. The river here makes a very bad turn, and north and south seem to change places. We came to grief here once before in the Herodotus - and again this morning, our delay of an hour resulted in staying all day near Sohag - for the strong wind at last found us on shore about 2 miles above the town - and opposite Akmim. The wind blew a hurricane all day - and all windows and doors had to be closed to keep out the driving fine sand. Towards evening we pulled to the anchor across the river near Akmim - and would rather have been above than below the town - as the cholera raged at this place during the summer. Made 9 miles.

- Jan. 28. + + Jan. 28. +

We have made 35 miles today - beginning at 6:30 o'clock with a PAGE 91 fair wind that grew so strong we had to lie by at Balliana for more than 2 hours.

- Jan. 29. + + Jan. 29. +

With the exception of Jan. 15, we have made today our best record - 49 miles - and are lying tonight near Keneh. Passed the Philetus - like a dream.

- Jan. 30. + + Jan. 30. +

A good wind this morning then sailed and tracked until we tied up for the night, having made 32 miles.

- Jan. 31. Luxor. Fourth Sunday after Epiphany. + + Jan. 31. Luxor. Fourth Sunday after Epiphany. +

We made the intervening 12 miles between our landing place of last night and Luxor at 4:30 - having had a variable light wind all day - sometimes no wind, when we tracked and poled. About 11 o'clock, we descried the streamer of a dahabieh in the distance - then her sails, and the sails of 3 more - to our great delight as we have been thirsting for a foe worthy of our steel. We crept slowly along towards them, making Luxor the same time as the Manhattan, and just behind the Zenet-el Nil, the Sesostris and the Ammon Ra - in front of which last we tied up, just below the Castle. The rest went into the town, and I stayed to enjoy the quiet of our dahabeah and our beautiful deck - and the wonders of the setting sun - and the shadows creeping over the mountains. Heaps of letters and newspapers. PAGE 92

- Feb. 3. Luxor. + + Feb. 3. Luxor. +

We have had a tremendously high wind for 2 days - yesterday neither Mary nor I stirred from the boat. Although protected by the high bank, we were really buffetted about and the waves race high - everything was kept closed - doors, windows, screens and tambooshes - but in spite of all the dust penetrated everywhere - though to a much less degree than in any other boat I have been on. Across the river, the sand obscured the sight of the mountains at times - and I was sorry for the Cookites, who were swarming on the sands, starting for their various excursions - for 2 or 3 steamers are in - and of course their passengers cannot wait for more favorable weather. Mary and I this morning climbed up the high bank, with the intention of walking back into the country - but our skirts blew over our heads, our hats off our heads - and our eyes were blinded with sand - so that we soon gave up the contest and came home, glad to finish our walk on the sheltered deck. Salah came to see us soon after our arrival, very proud of us, and of our sailing record. He is almost willing to let us beat his Zenet-el Nil -M. Goleinschief's boat, of which he has charge. Old Mohammed Mohassib also came one evening - excessively pleased - and we presented our little gifts to him. Theodore reports Karnak in the hands of the Excavation Society - I have not yet seen it. Mr. Baldwin who is on the Ammon-Ra, with his wife, and son-in-law, Dr. Grinell - was here today. Mrs. Baldwin is very wretched since she came on the river. They want us to start for Assouan when they do. The Fell party on the Zenet-el-Fil go back to Cairo from here - much to Salah's PAGE 93 disgust. This morning we had a visit from Rev. Mr. Huhatt - the English clergyman at Luxor, and Mr. Coulson - they begged us to go to the Luxor Hotel to a "Cinderella Fancy Dress" Ball for the benefit of the little Hospital here. Theodore made no promises, but took several tickets. Ramadan begins today - very early this year.

- Luxor. Feb. 5. + + Luxor. Feb. 5. +

Yesterday afternoon we rode over to Medinet Habout - very warm going - this splendid temple has been much excavated since I saw it last. Today we had our photographs taken by old Beato, who afterwards came into the boat to see it - and was loud in praises of it. Then we pulled across the river to the gizereh, and went again to Medinet, where we had lunch - and afterwards rode over the burning desert to Der el Bahari -leaving Mary at Medinet to finish her sketches It was very hot - and I am well tired tonight.

- Feb. 6. + + Feb. 6. +

We did not much want to leave Luxor this morning - but as Mrs. Baldwin has religious scruples about starting on Sunday - it was today or next week - and as Theodore is anxious to test the sailing qualities of the Beduin with the Ammon-Re, Cooks best and largest boat, we left about noon, twenty minutes or more after they were under way - the wind was very light, but in an hour we had easily overtaken and passed her, to the intense disgust of her men, and the delight of our own. Indeed Rais Fuli, with his calm, serene manner repressed the too PAGE 94 exultant manner of our men - though it must have been the triumph of his own life. About 6 o'clock after much tracking we pulled up near Erment where we now are. I was rather sorry to leave Luxor so soon. We had one very busy day while there - to Karnak in the morning - the races in the afternoon - Mr. and Mrs. Huhatt, Mr. and Mrs. Brown - Miss Scott - and Miss Norton, to tea at 5 o'clock, and Laura Billings and her sister and Mr. Fahenstock of New York to dine in the evening. We had a lovely dinner - and I had some splendid red roses from the Luxor Hotel. This morning before leaving, I went to the Roman Catholic Italian Convent, to see if it were possible to arrange for Zenobia, my little arab child here in whom we have been much interested, to enter the school. I had an interview with the Mother Superior, or rather Mary had, for she could speak only Italian. We found the cleanest, quietest place I have ever seen in Luxor - pleasant airy courts, good gardens - and everything so spotlessly clean - the the Superior herself, clean, fat and sweet as she could be - and strongly reminding us of "The Abbess" of Moroni - a photograph of which I brought with me from home. Zenobia, her father, and her sister, now married - the sweet child of 2 years ago, were at the boat this morning. The sister well clothed, in the usual Arab fashion - veiled as becomes a married woman - and Zenobia as pretty and taking, and round and brown, as she used to be. I fear it will be impossible to get her into the Italian school - but I may succeed with the American Mission school when I go down. I would like to lift the child somewhat out of her dirt and poverty. For the first time at Luxor, I rode in one of the carriages, PAGE 95 2 or 3 of which are supplied by the Hotel - and I felt almost ashamed of myself - one doesn't like to see such unnecessary innovations.

- Feb. 7. + + Feb. 7. +

Fifth Sunday after Epiphany. We stopped a short time at the Erment garden to get oranges and lemons this morning, and the Ammon-Ra passed ahead - light wind and calms most of the day. We overtook the Ammon-Ra and sailed her out of sight. Tied up at Esneh at 7:30 - but the wind coming out strong at 9 o'clock, we pulled up our stakes, and were off and did not stop until one o'clock, when we pulled up at Al-Kab having made in all 41 miles. The nights have now a wonderful beauty. A little new moon appeared 3 nights ago - and Venus is resplendent - and so is Sirius. Yesterday and today warm.

- Feb. 8th. + + Feb. 8th. +

Did not sail early this morning - and as we began tracking about 11, the Ammon-Ra appeared in sight. At 2 o'clock we pulled up at Al-Kab, to see Mr. Somers-Clarke - who is living there on his dahabeah at work at excavations. He came on the Beduin for a short visit, and it was quite an hour before we got away, the A.R. being by that time more than a mile in advance - before an hour had gone by, we had caught and passed her. Passed Edfou about 5 o'clock - what beautiful wide country - what splendid great domes of sycamore trees! We have come about 5 miles above Edfou - and have made 24 miles today. The Beduin seems to sail almost without wind - so smoothly she glided along PAGE 96 mile after mile this evening, through the glittering moon lit water, without a ripple, other than she made.

- Feb. 9. + + Feb. 9. +

I do not know how we have made 23 miles today - it has been so calm with so little wind - but at 7 o'clock we passed Silsilis, and are now lying 2 miles above - such a perfect night and so warm. We crept silently along by the dangerous Silsileh rocks, as it was growing dark, and I never saw a more beautiful scene - the water without a ripple - everything bathed in moonlight - and Venus almost as bright as the moon. Ammon-Ra came up later and tied up behind us - and before we had finished dinner Dr. and Mrs. Grinell came over. Busy all day, writing and working, having succeeded in rousing myself out of my long indolence.

- Feb. 10. + + Feb. 10. +

A hot calm day - a little tracking this A.M. then laid up, with the Ammon-Ra just behind us. Thermometer at 86° in the afternoon. At 7 came a good wind and we were off, and sailed until 9 o'clock - 2 miles above Kom Ombo which was beautiful as we passed it in the moonlight - made 15 miles.

- Feb. 11. + + Feb. 11. +

Thuesday. Assouan. Arrived at 10:30 this morning - having started at 6 o'clock, with the Ammon-Ra and Manhattan within sight behind us - and made 23 miles in 4 hours -having lost sight of both boats. Passed the Gazelle PAGE 97 just below Assouan on her way down. Found the "Sesestris", "Istan", "Philetus" and "Thames" here at Elephantine - and now that the "Ammon-Ra" and "Manhattan" have arrived, we make 7 dahabeahs here. The Philetus started this afternoon for the ascent of the Cataract. Sailed in the felucca towards the Cataract, rowing home. This scenery and these rocks never lose in vividness of expression - and the same beautiful afterglow, that I always associate with Assouan.

- Feb. 12. + + Feb. 12. +

Went over to Philae by train - Mary and I - with all our entourage of servants and sailors and hampers - Theodore and Clarence following later on their donkeys, in time for lunch. I found Yemma waiting for me, having heard through one of our sailors that we would arrive. He is little grown - and is really a very efficient little guide - Dendowi too, the unapproachable - who appropriated Mary for the day. Newmans not here this year. Mary at once selected an eligible spot for painting and set to work - and after wandering about and photographing all the children and Mohammet the sailor, I established myself in the long colonnade near Mary, out of the sun, and wind - and read - while Jones and Ibrahim got the lunch ready - I made Yemma and the children sing for me - and when I grew tired of their shouting, I begged them to sing me something soft and low - and they sang squatted on the ground about me, the song I always call the cataract song - as one hears it about here all the time - they sang it softly - in a constantly recurring refrain, putting their heads on their hand to express PAGE 98 sleep - I asked Yemma what the song was, and they all replied that it was the "Dongola" song - and when I asked what it meant, Yemma replied that it was a slumber song (though of course these are not his words) that the mother was singing the baby to sleep - and was telling him not to be afraid, although there was war and fighting in Dongola, here it was safe and quiet - to sleep and not fear. I thought it very pretty, but I believe one song is used for various words. After lunch we walked about, and climbed to the roof of the temple - where of course the views were delicious - and the birds eye view of the island gave a very good idea of the extent of Capt. Lyons work and explorations of last year. Dr. and Mrs. Grinnell also lunched out there but they were in Pharaoh's Bed. We came home by one of the Cataract boats -bringing Yemma and Dendowi with us to show them the boat - then sent them back. They were such amusing little guests.

- Feb. 17. + + Feb. 17. +

Before 5 o'clock this morning, I heard the preparations for departure. Our splendid big boom was taken down the day we spent at Philae - and for 2 or 3 days the boat has been getting ready for her downward journey. We have had a lovely week at Assouan - the pleasantest I have ever known - at our same old landing, with the same views before us, we felt quite at home. Assouan has greatly improved since we were here, the river front has been faced with stone, and steps made here and there to the water. The main street following the river bank is now clean, and quite well built, with some good government houses, PAGE 99 which with the hotel, give a very bright, clean look. It is very quiet almost no soldiers at the garrison - all having gone to the front. I like the air here better than any place along the river - it is so pure and so entirely from the desert, there being so little vegetation here. A day or two after we arrived, Prof. Sayce and Lord Fitz-Hardinge came to call. The Fitz-Hardinges have the little Thames which they built years ago - and Prof. Sayce on his Istar, was just behind us. A nice, entertaining young fellow with the Fitz-Hardinges, Dr. Bridgman, who found him an enthusiastic gardener, and the only person I ever met who could tell me anything about horticulture in Egypt. We had Prof. Sayce one evening to dinner - and found him very interesting -telling us a great many things we wanted to know. We left Lord Fitz-Hardinge very ill - with threatened pneumonia. He has during the past year succeeded to the title, we having formerly known of him as Hon. Mr. Berkeley. With this title which is one of the oldest in England, dating from the time of King Stephen, he has become owner of Berkeley Castle one of the most interesting historical Castles of England, and also to an income of ￡70,00 a year. He has no children, he and his wife are past 60 - have very quiet tastes - devoted to church work - schools and charities, and terribly depressed by this change of fortune, which breaks up old habits, and entails so much state and responsibility for which they have no liking. The next heir, is Lord Berkeley of Oxford - a man no longer young - no children, and who cares only for chemistry and geology - and devoutly dreads the day when he shall succeed. - Next to him is an unmarried woman not young, the oldest of 9 children of a clergyman, who has just 600 ￡s PAGE 100 to spend a year! Prof. Sayce on the Istar, started down at the same time we did this morning - but he told us yesterday, that he would float faster than we could, as his boat is heavy, with a keel - one of the heavy, old fashioned wooden boats, which would not have the ghost of a chance with us in sailing. We have floated against the wind, but with so little progress that at 7 this morning we stopped judging we have made about 15 miles. We are lying in the cove of the bend of the river, at anchor, some distance from shore, with the "Istar" near below, her lights showing hospitably against this desert shore. The night most resplendent, the moon full and the great yellow sand drifts over the mountain sides, glowing with almost as much color as they do by day. I would not have my blinds closed, and slept with all the curtains back from the windows that I might get all the outside beauty possible - and waking several times during the night, I sat up in my bed and looked out at it all. What beautiful, resplendent loneliness!

- Feb. 18. + + Feb. 18. +

We made about 3 miles, starting at half past 6 this morning, but this wretched north wind increasing we gave it up, and lay again in the stream as the shore was so sandy - the Istar almost a mile below us. Prof. Sayce sent over a note, asking us to come to tea - which we did going down in the felucca - very hard rowing against the wind, even with the current, and there really were waves. We had a charming visit Prof. S. Showing us some of his interesting works on Egypt - Belzoni's splendid great volume, with hand painted pictures of the temples and PAGE 101 tombs - his rendering of the hieroglyphs, being remarkably accurate, though at that time there was no key to them - and of course he was ignorant of their meaning - and it was like copying any other detail of decoration. The great Napeonic work, of the French Scientific Expedition which I had never seen before - the travels of Ligh, the Englishman a copy of which Howard Amory gave me from his grandfather's library, and others - one an account of travel written by and Italian "del Valle" in 16____. The Istar is a big, old fashioned boat, and looked most comfortable - 20 ft. wide. We and Cooks new boats are 17 ft. This width gives her a beautiful saloon, and a wide corridor to the stern cabin, which is also very large, and fitted as a library - with bookcases to the ceiling - a charming, scholarly room - and here Prof. S. says he really does his work for the whole year. Another wonderful night but the wind as strong as ever - and we are rocking uncomfortably - indeed I never rocked so much on the river as we have been doing all day.

- Friday. Feb. 19. + + Friday. Feb. 19. +

We began the morning very early with a light wind, but it soon changed into a big blow - and we were soon driven upon the lee bank, where we pounded up and down in the sand, until Theodore suggested an anchor put out at the stern when we were more comfortable. I have just finished reading Stevenson's "South-Sea Sketches", and a second reading of his Vailima Letters - and are now going to read Ebb Tide. A great blow going on. PAGE 102

- Feb. 20. + + Feb. 20. +

Feb. 20. I had quite an attack of neuralgia or rheumatism in my back and chest last night, which kept me from sleeping - and finding when my morning cup of tea was brought me at 7 o'clock - that the gale was still blowing and the boat rocking, I decided after having my bath to go back to bed, and have my breakfast. Wind continued all day, and weather hopeless. I began reading Prof. Sayce's "Egypt of the Hebrews". Last night we got away from our lee shore, and took refuge on the opposite side of the river, where we are now lying, more quietly. Read aloud a long time in Milner's "England in Egypt".

- Feb. 21. Sexagesima Sunday. + + Feb. 21. Sexagesima Sunday. +

The men rowed, or we floated all the latter part of the night until 7 this morning, when I saw Kom Ombo directly in front of us. A fine all around view of it, perched so high on its cliff - we pulled up soon, and after breakfast went up to the Temple - it is charming in its height, though not specially interesting; and is certainly very much swept and garnished. The wind falling, we decided not to linger, but pushed off, just as Gage's Steamer "Memphis" was coming up to her landing. Passed the Istar lying by a little below Kom Ombo. This is our 5th day from Assouan, and we have only covered 29 miles.

- Feb. 22. Monday. + + Feb. 22. Monday. +

We were off before 6 o'clock this morning - rowing - and in the face of the north wind which still holds with more or less fitfullness - PAGE 103 we passed Silsilis about 3 o'clock - but did not stop, as we are so belated. About an hour afterwards we had gained very much upon the Istar - and our men were pulling lustily - when the order from the Rais was suddenly given to stop, and in a moment after, we went rather hard upon a sand bank - which delayed us about an hour - when we went on until 7 o'clock - apparently by the light of Venus, almost as good as a moon. We tied up at a pleasant bank under some scent trees, having come between 3 and 4 miles below Silsilis - making today 15 miles. It is so easy to tell who is keeping Ramadan. Quite a proportion of crew are and they are so solemn and melancholy. Our nice Mathar, the 2d captain, hasn't even a smile - Rais Fuli, and he, and 5 or 6 of the crew, are carefully keeping it.

- Tuesday Feb. 23. + + Tuesday Feb. 23. +

We have allowed ourselves just a month from today to reach Cairo - there will be so much to do there about changes in the boat, and getting her ready to leave her, that the 10 days between March 23 and April 3d when we leave for Hrindisi will not be more than we need. But this north wind must cease blowing! This morning we started out before 6 - and when Ainely came to my room, she reported the Istar some distance in advance of us, and another dahabeah. We are wondering if it can be the Gazelle, which left Assouan, the day we arrived. Yesterday the Nephtis passed up, with the Duke of Hamilton on board. His own flag I suppose at the mast, yellow, with a grimping lion - very effective. He has only lately succeeded to the title we were told - and jumped from PAGE 104 a lieutenant in the navy to his present titles and possessions. A pleasant thing. Reached El Kab - 36 miles.

- Wednesday. Feb. 24. + + Wednesday. Feb. 24. +

Morning calm - did not start until 10 o'clock - as we had hoped to se Mr. Somers-Clarke. I wanted very much to see his boat. But we found he and Prof. Sayce had gone early to the tombs, so after a little inspection of the old town, we came away - and have with difficulty, against a head wind made 15 miles.

- Thursday Feb. 25. + + Thursday Feb. 25. +

We floated down 2 miles to Esneh early this morning - and all the rest went off in the felucca to see the temple - which I don't care for - Jones and Henna went marketing - and they all joined us again at the end of the town. Our men have rowed tremendously this afternoon, hoping to bring us to Luxor tonight - but at 11 o'clock the wind grew so strong that we tied up within sight of the Luxor lights - having made 36 miles.

- Friday Feb. 26. + + Friday Feb. 26. +

We came to our old place near the Castle early this morning. High wind has been blowing all day, and I did not ride out to Karnac with them this afternoon - though we walked into town, and I went to the American Mission to ask about the little arab girl "Nubia" and the chances of sending her to school. I saw Mrs. Nichols in her pleasant PAGE 105 clean rooms - and she could not give me any encouragement. Asked her and Mr. Nichols to come to tea this afternoon - and had a very pleasant visit. They are soon going to America for a vacation year, having spent 7 years here. Only 4 dahabeahs here - the Hyksos, Anna, Gamilla, and one other. Mr. Huhatt came to play chess.

- Saturday, Feb. 27. Today the Cheops, Columbia and Ammon-Ra came down. All went over early to the Tombs of the Kings for the day - I could not face the idea of such a long excursion in this heat - so stayed on the boat all day - and had a rest and did all manner of delightful little independent things. Intensely hot - I had "Nubia" part of the morning with me, but she was such a restless little colt, I had to send her away at 12 o'clock - quite happy with numerous possessions - the chief of which was a pair of red shoes - which Mohammed Schaiyeh, my singer, bought for her in the town. The family came back at 6:30 -powdered with dust, and tired, and clamouring for lemonade and tea - having had a delightful day. The Osiris came in this afternoon and is lying close behind us. Quinquagesima Sunday. Feb. 28. We had thought of getting off today, but there was no wind, and Mr. Baldwin wants us to wait for him tomorrow. I did not leave the boat, in the afternoon the wind very high. Mrs. Constantine Read and her cousin made us a visit, and Mr. Shephard and his sister of the PAGE 106 Hyksos also came. He, the Engineer of the new railroad. Mohammed Mohassib also came. March 1st. Monday. We did not get away until 7 o'clock this morning - and had not lost sight of the town when a very hard north wind sprang up, and after trying to float, gave it up and anchored, until about 4 o'clock, when it came out a little to the south, and we gladly spread our sails, and had soon come to a big turn in the river which brought the wind on our side, so that we could not keep off the bank. Found here tied up, under the same circumstances, the Osiris which left Luxor the day before us, and the Ammon-Ra who got away an hour before us this morning - and here we all are for the night. Two Mecca pilgrims going to Mecca stopped on the bank above us after the sun had gone down, to break the long fast of the day and eat their evening meal. They were dressed entirely in white, and had a donkey, carrying their luggage. March 2d. Tuesday. A very early start this morning and rowing and floating in company with the Ammon-Ra and the Osiris, we reached Keneh about 3 o'clock, and the rest started in the felucca, before we reached the opposite landing for Denderah, and we floated down below and waited for them. Very hot for 2 hours - found the Columbia at Denderah. They reported on coming home, very unruly donkey boys, and very exciting rows with them. All the morning we were just in advance of the Osiris, PAGE 107 and she floated most unpleasantly near us - two or three times we were actually in collision side by side, and great commotion among the crews. Lord St. Oswald is on her. They all came back in an hour and a half, and we floated and rowed 3 or 4 miles farther down - and tied up with strong wind blowing from the north, at 6:30. I enjoyed a walk on deck while they were away - looking at the splendid desert mountains across the river beyond Keneh. What a hot, desolate spot Keneh must have been last summer, when the cholera raged so violently! I have never been in the town but once - and it lies so back from the river that it cannot be well seen. I suppose just now the Mecca pilgrims are crowding them on their way to Mecca - I should like to have ridden into the town today, and out a way upon the Koser road. The descriptions of this desert route have always fascinated me. We think we have made 31 miles today. Wednesday. March 3. This is Ash Wednesday - and the last of the 30 days of Ramadan - for which we are truly thankful - for Rais Fuli - 2 Rais Mattar - Moomond the big Mohammed, and Baken the little sailor, all keep it rigourously. They represent the very pick of the crew - and things will now be more cheerful. This had been a distracting day. Such a mix as we, the Osiris, the Ammon-Ra, the Columbia and several large working boats have been in most of the day. I have never known such an experience - the wind has been from the north most of the time. Our crew have worked splendidly at their oars, and beaten all the others PAGE 108 out and out. It was a splendid triumph. The gale increased and at 5 o'clock we tied up, followed by all the others - and we are strung along the bank, within 2 or 3 miles of Kasr-el Sayd. After we landed we went to visit the Baldwins. We have made 25 miles - and are rolling a little uneasily in the wind. Thursday. March 4. Made about 5 miles early this morning - heavy gale from the north has made it impossible to stir since 8 o'clock. We are 3 miles below Kasr el-Sayd. Friday. March 5. Started at 5 o'clock this morning - and before I got up, while enjoying my book and cup of tea, we passed the bridge at Nagh-el-Hamadi. Ammon-Ra and Osiris ahead of us. Saturday. March 6. Our men began rowing at 1 o'clock this morning - reached Balliana at 10:30 and started immediately for Abydos. That pleasant ride of 7 miles out and 7 back, never seemed so tiresome - for the very worst donkeys of all the notorious bad donkeys of Abydos or rather Balliana fell to our lot. The day was tremendously hot - the natives specially tormenting. I arrived at the temple more dead than alive - and by 3:30 we were in our saddles again - and I came home resolving PAGE 109 never to do that expedition again. The Ammon-Ra and Osiris did not stop - but the Chensu (English) and the Columbia (American Jews) did, and went to the Temple. We are having the most beautiful little new moon imaginable. For the first two nights it had the resplendent beams almost within its bow. The last winter we were here on the river we used constantly to see the Zodiacal lights - but I have not seen it this time. I saw in the Abydos fields today, the most beautiful light vivid green birds - large as our robin, but more slender and elegant. 1st Sunday in Lent. March 7. Made from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. 27-1/2 miles - are now at Akmim. Monday. March 8. Started early, and made Sohag by 9 o'clock - where we stopped to get coal and provisions and our mail. By 11 o'clock P.M. had come 6 miles below Sohag - making the whole day 11 miles. North wind. Tuesday. March 9. Made 2 miles today early - tied up since in a gale - wind a little west of north - so that we are hoping it may move around to the south. We would like so much to have one record day of gentle south wind! Chonsu passed us, being so heavy, she floats fast. Columbia still behind. Had a row in the felucca. PAGE 110 Wednesday. March 10. Early this morning, we managed to make about 10 yards - but the wind increasing we tied up again - and now lying just as we did all day yesterday at the mercy of the wind, blowing across miles of sand. For days the sky has been full of clouds and last evening they were so ominous, that I hoped the night would bring rain, and perhaps break this deadly magic spell of north wind - but it has been even worse today. We have had the boat as tightly closed as possible, but the air everywhere has been thick with this fine, impalpable sand. Thursday. March 11. Still lying at the same spot, and a gale still blowing - impossible to be on deck except for a walk near sunset - so much sand still flying - rugs cushions etc. all folded and packed away. Friday. March 12. Got away at 6 o'clock and rowed and floated until about 10 - when the wind grew into such a sudden gale, we pulled with difficulty to the shore - where some work boats had taken refuge. Soon after the Nephtys, with the Duke of Hamilton, and a tug came down the river, and came to the shore just below us. 3 miles today. Saturday - March 13. Started in a light wind at 6 A.M. at 11 it was blowing such a gale that we tied up at the high cliffs about 2 miles above and opposite PAGE 111 Tahtah. Just where there is a group of palms - and the white little mosque against the yellow cliffs. Luckily it was not a hot day, or the reflection from those towering limestone cliffs would have been insufferable. But how the wind has blown - in our sheltered position however we got no sand. The canvass on the river side, and over the deck, and at the back were put up - leaving the land side with its pretty sights open - and under the hooded seats, the deck was charming for sitting. All the others went to walk, but I took mine on the clean deck. The Columbia came in sight this morning, and drew up just above us. At 6:30 we both went off, in the bright moonlight, the wind having fallen very much - and the men are still rowing. (They rowed until 12:30, thus making 27 miles). Second Sunday in Lent. March 14. Started early rowing. North wind strong most of the day. We are now tied up 2 miles above Assiut - the lights of the town plainly to be seen. Columbia near us. A superb sunset. Monday, March 15. Between marketing, getting in coke, and the mail, we were at Assiut, until after one o'clock. The afternoon a regular gale blowing, made 2 miles at 8 o'clock. PAGE 112 Tuesday. March 16. We are now beginning to calculate the distance made from 1:30 P.M. of each day. Since that time last night we have made 32 miles - and have passed the troublesome Gebel Abufedah, and are anchored in the stream. We have an almost full moon now, and lovely effects this evening. Wednesday. March 17. Made 21 miles - were blown ashore in the strong wind early in the afternoon near Haggi Kandul - and a lot of noisy children and rough looking men hung about the boat making it hideous with their clamour. We got away from that unpleasant neighborhood and floated down until 10 o'clock. Such a radiant night! Thursday. March 18. We have made 25 miles in the last 24 hours - the day being the calmest we have had and the hottest. We were all driven down stairs after luncheon by the heat. Passed Beni Hassan at one o'clock - but did not stop - as we are so belated. Every day Theodore says "tomorrow" I shall telegraph for a tug, if the south sind doesn't come. Each day we hopefully look for it - and we would even welcome a Khamseen. We reached Minieh at 7 o'clock and got our mail, and will lie here all night. The full moon was wonderfully beautiful and the night so soft. A heavy mist however lying along the river. PAGE 113 Friday. March 19. An early start, and rowing and occasional sailing, or lying by when the wind was too strong, has brought us to within 3 miles of Fashen - making since 1:30, 44 miles, or 61-1/2 from Minieh this morning - a strange, wonderful sunset - and a cloudy night. Saturday - March 20. Started at 6 A.M. made Benisoef about 1:30 - and a drifting and sailing delightfully along before a light wind, all the afternoon, we are now lying 7 miles from Wasta, - 54-1/2 miles since 1:30 yesterday, and 25 miles since 1:30 today. Medum in sight. Third Sunday in Lent. March 21st. An early start in a good wind brought us along so surprisingly that we were near Bedrascheen at 10:30, having discovered some minutes before that beautiful view of the dome and slender minarets of Mohammed Ali - shining in the sun above the thick haze, looking like some enchanted palace. The sailing was so fine, and the Beduin showing her paces so splendidly, that we suddenly decided we would not stop for the visit to Sakkarah, and kept on for the Museum landing at Ghizeh. The sky being full of great clouds, very unlike Egypt - all the morning the blue sky making such delightful contrasts with their great swelling white domes, and the pyramids of Lisht, Dashur, and Sakkarah showing splendidly - until quite in a moment the clouds grew dirty and the atmosphere thick, the wind increased, and we were blown to the bank, with PAGE 114 great effort escaping collision with the rocky foundation of a big sakiyeh on the top of which as usual a blindfolded bullock was walking round and round his wheel. Here we have been ever since, the wind growing into a gale, and the opposite shore almost hidden by the clouds of sand blowing across its sandy waste. We are quite sheltered here from it, though we get enough of it as the atmosphere is so charged with it and when in the afternoon it began softly to rain, the drops seemed like mud, and made a fine mess of our clean windows. The waves beat so high and roughly on the lee shore against which we lay, that the two feluccas, were in danger, and our men worked almost stripped, for 2 hours before they were bailed and lifted to a place of safety. In my stern room the uproar was tremendous - Theodore and Clarence went for a walk, but were driven home by the wind and rain, and there was a great fracas on deck, getting everything under canvass, safe from the wet. The men are always so funny with a rain - like children with a snow storm, and never seem quite to know what to do - 67 miles to 1:30 today. At 11 o'clock this evening, I saw two or three stars showing. Monday, March 22d. We attempted to get on this A.M. at 6 o'clock and succeeded only in making a start and were driven to shore about Old Cairo - tremendous wind, and rain almost amounting to hail in the afternoon - and with our new decks so warped, we came to great grief - the boat leaking in many places - so that when Theodore and Clarence came back from Cairo, where they went and had lunch and came back late in the PAGE 115 afternoon - they found us with curtains taken down from the windows, and bowls and pans standing about everywhere. They were so pleased to get home - they were ineffably amiable - said it seemed after Cairo like Paradise. Tuesday. March 23. We made the Museum landing at Ghizeh this morning early - and fortunately we were to have accomplished it - for the wind has increased in violence - it has been a gale all day - and it is cold and disagreeable - a bad March day for any part of the world. We spent a pleasant morning however at the Museum - and had it all to ourselves. Theodore and Clarence have been into Cairo, and report it dismal. Wednesday. March 24. A gale all day - with rain now and then. Morning at the Museum - Salah came out to see us. Thursday. March 25. Very busy all the morning with the various work people coming to the boat. Carpenters, painters, upholsterer, sail makers. Mary and I drove in the afternoon - charming and warmer - Cairo very pretty with flowering shrubs and vines - very quiet and empty. Poor Abdul had been quite ill for some days, and so suffering that we sent for Dr. Sandwith yesterday, who said he must go to the hospital for a few days. So this PAGE 116 morning the men with Jones, took him down in the felucca- being able to go quite to its doors in the boat. He is a great loss to us just at present not being simply the valued servant, but interpreter. Fortunately we have fallen back on Salah, who fortunately has no engagement just now, and comes out to us every day. Excessively warm. I have never been in Cairo when so warm. Friday. March 26. Mrs. Taylor and Florence came this morning and made a visit, and were very pleasant - putting us en rapport with everything in and about Cairo - asking us to dine on Saturday with them at the Gesireh to meet Sir John Scott, who wants to know Theodore, and whom Theodore is very keen to meet. Sir John is Judicial Advisor to the Khedive, and did excellent work in India before coming here to help straighten out Egyptian affairs. In the afternoon went to the races - which were rather slow - met Mrs. Hamilton Lang and her daughter - saw Gen. Kitchener, the Sirdâr and other notables. Fourth Sunday in Lent. March 28. I was ill all day yesterday, and could not go to dinner with Mrs. Taylor - which was reported very pleasant. This afternoon Dr. and Mrs. Sandwith came to tea - and Mrs. Taylor and Florence, and her fiancé Mr. Morice to dine. We had a nice evening. PAGE 117 Tuesday, March 30. Cairo. We came over to Shepheards this afternoon - and are in the corner room we had 5 years ago, when Fielding was with us. Then it was cold and we had a fire in the big sitting room. Now it is so hot, that we have all the windows open at night and shut during the day to keep out the heat. But it is very noisy and smelly. I do not like it, although my balcony opens on the pretty garden. Hotel quite empty - very tired from yesterday - packing and arranging. Wednesday, March 31. Over at the boat which still lies at Ghizeh - and where our Rais intends to stay all summer because it is so much cooler. Delightful drive in the afternoon. Thursday, April 1st. Theodore and Clarence went to the Courts of Justice this morning with Sir John Scott and Mr. Morice, and were much interested. Abdul came back from the hospital, very weak and thin, but almost well. A bothersome time for days getting all the carpets, curtains, stuffs, etc. of the boat safely packed away from dangers of moths and vermin. The boat reeks with the smell of Naphthaline and Camphor. The poor Beduin, so changed - closed and dark, with her thick brown summer awnings enshrouding her - all the men gone but Rais Fuli, and Arbuk, the nice little crew cook, who stays with the Captain - and Abdul, who will live with Fuli on the boat, and look after the inside cleaning - as he PAGE 118 reads and writes English, it will be very convenient for us - and Rais Fuli is immensely glad to have him. The Taylors sailed for Marseilles today in the Clyde. Friday, April 2d. We were obliged to go again to the boat to confer with the old French painter as to the colours for the outside. Then goodbye to all - and a delightful drive. Theodore and Clarence on their horses with us most of the way. The air has been quite delightful for 2 days - all our friends beg us to stay for the charming April weather. We are off tomorrow morning for Alexandria and sail for Brindisi in the afternoon. Rome. Bristol Hotel. April 15. A long interval in this journal. We left Alexandria the afternoon of the 3d in the fine new S.S. Bohemia for Brindisi. Weather very warm - and we were glad of the welcome change which two or three hours at sea brought. Boat very comfortable - but passage rough - almost every one in his bed - I stayed in mine Sunday and Monday - and we landed at Brindisi at 5 o'clock and made our train, because they were complaisant enough to hold our train 40 minutes for us. The long ride to Naples was not so tiring, and seemed more pleasant than usual. So delightful the country seemed in its fresh spring greenness - and the huge vegetable garden which stretches as far as the eye can see, without boundaries, for miles before reaching Naples, is something quite wonderful. Everything planted under the thin foliaged trees, with their garlands PAGE 119 of vines stretching from tree to tree. We found pleasant rooms at the Grand Hotel, but Theodore had taken a cold in crossing, which developed into a light form of grippe, which gave him much suffering and restlessness - and he had the Doctor (Malbrane) who is always so simple and helpful, and stayed in the room all the time, and one day in bed. As the weather was not good, clouds everywhere, Vesuvius and the islands hidden from view most of the time, I stayed at home with Theodore - and on Saturday the 10th he was well enough to come on here - Clarence, Mary, Amilie and Jones spent one day at Pompeii, and Clarence the next day at Vesuvius. We had rooms engaged at the Quirinal, but found them much too small and fortunately having had an offer from the Bristol we came here, which is always my favorite hotel in Rome. But alas, I have since coming here developed the grippe also - and have been in bed and in the house all the time until yesterday, as uncomfortable as I ever remember of being - with Dr. Bull in daily attendance. All the world more or less is in Rome - and to my thinking Holy Week is not the time to visit Rome, unless one is interested in church ceremonies. The pictures in churches covered, many galleries closed etc. Hotel Grande Bretagne. Florence. April 22. We got away from Rome Tuesday the 20th at 9 o'clock in the morning - I was glad to leave - for Mary had taken cold, and we were all under the weather. On Easter Sunday, I was able to drive out 7 miles on the Campagna to the Villa Livia, where we met by invitation Mrs. Elliott, who had asked some of her friends to take tea with us there. PAGE 120 Mrs. Stillman, the once favorite beauty was there - Mr. Larz Anderson - the young Swedish American sculptor Anderson, whose mother lives in Newport was there and others. It was not quite my idea of enjoyment - sitting at 5 o'clock P.M. on rugs on the ground at the top of a windy hill - but Mrs. Elliott's intention was good and kind. The next morning, Theodore, Mary and I went to St. Peters and saw the lovely Melozzo angels and frescoes in the inner sacristy - then drove to the Colosseum and along the Via S. Gregorio, the morning being quite warm and beautiful. Theodore went to lunch with the Elliotts, and in the afternoon Mary and I drove to the Villa Doria Pamphilia, the lovely grounds of which were full of people, it being Easter Monday and a holiday. But the weather had changed and the wind was cold - so we drove to the Piazzo Rusticucci to say goodbye to Mrs. Elliott and had a pleasant visit - meeting for the first time Mr. Elliott - a handsome, rather invalid looking man, whom I liked - especially when he took me on to his roof garden which he cultivates entirely himself, and which has charming views of S. Pietro and the whole quarter. It was gay with vines and climbing roses and flowers and quite fascinating. Clarence met us there, and after tea we all drove home. Mrs. Elliott and her cousin Miss Von Ralem having dined with us the night before. We had a pleasant ride to Florence, found Nettie waiting for us, and who soon went off with Mary. We have pleasant rooms here overlooking the Arno and Ponto Vecchio, and we, that is Theodore and I, have decided to stay here and not go to Venice - Clarence will go alone. PAGE 121 April 24. Saturday. We are having a rainy day - Nettie and I however went for a little shopping this morning - before the rain began - the wind was blowing and the dust flying however. We brought up at Pelotti's where we met Theodore, and looked at many enticing things. Mr. Berenson came to lunch - and after Lieutenant Niblock called - home all the afternoon the rain pouring. Theodore still has a troublesome cold, and I have quite mended. Yesterday morning, Nettie, Theodore and I drove a long time in the lovely Cascine. In the afternoon a visit to the Bardini palace with its fascinating collection, and then a visit to Lizzie - Mary and Clarence have been busy each day doing Florence. This afternoon Clarence went off alone to Venice, charged with the precious things and the mission to the Armenian convent of St. Lazarre. We have done the Uffizzi and Academia, and had a lovely afternoon at San Miniato. Wednesday evening Mrs. Bend and her daughters dined with us, and on Thursday Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. Sunday after Easter. April 25. We are just home from the Victoria Hotel, where we have been dining with Mrs. Bend and spent a pleasant evening with her and her two pretty girls. The day has been lovely - Nettie and I had a delicious morning together at the Pitti - and afterwards went to the church of the Carmine to see the Masaccio frescoes - which I knew well from my photographs - and could therefore intelligently enjoy in detail, despite the darkness of the little chapel where they are, and their faded condition. PAGE 122 Lizzie Buttles and both girls came to lunch, and stayed to tea. After they had gone, Mrs. Baldwin called. I found her simple, pleasant and unaffected - and I enjoyed talking to her. She has asked us to lunch on Tuesday. Monday. April 26. After a morning with Mary and Theodore at the Bargello, among the della Robias and Donatellos - Theodore and I drove out to the Villa Rosa at Fiesole to lunch with Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. A nice scotch woman was there - a Miss Christina Breenner - worker in and writer on education of women. A pleasant visit, and much talking - and a charming drive down the hill and a turn in the Cascine which was quite too lovely - none of the gay throng having arrived - the air so delicious - the birds singing like mad. We had to hurry home, for Mrs. Bend and her girls were coming to tea to meet Lizzie and the girls. Nettie, poor child, detained at home with one of her bad neuralgia headaches - Theodore and I dined alone - and have had a quiet evening, writing letters. Tuesday, April 27. Such a busy day - shopping this morning - lunching at Dr. Baldwins - where we had a delightful visit - and a beautiful luncheon, the house charming - home to meet Nettie for some searching of photographs at Alinaris - then to Lizzies to tea - and Nettie sang for us in splendid voice. Then a drive with Theodore and Mary in the Cascine. Mary came to dine, and Nettie came for her with Hassan in the evening. PAGE 123 Afterwards Theodore and I went up to Mrs. Woodward Haven's rooms to pay a visit and say goodbye. Weather very warm - off tomorrow for Milan. Wednesday. April 28th. A very busy morning with Mary - Lizzie and the girls came to lunch - and at 2 o'clock we had to say goodbye to Lizzie and Mary - and Nettie, Theodore and I started for Milan, which we reached comfortably enough at 10 o'clock - taking possession of our old, pleasant rooms at this Hotel Cavour. Thursday. April 29. Theodore, Nettie and I started out at 10 o'clock for the Brera - where we stayed quite 2 hours - this afternoon Nettie and I drove to the other end of everywhere, to the interesting little church of S. Eustorgio. We found it was a festa, and the little piazza in front of the church full of bazaars and peasants. As the especial picture we wanted to see was near the entrance, we got the wife of the Sacristan to open it for us - the picture is a lovely one of the Madonna enthroned by Borgognone. The 3 different entrances to the church were lined with collections of blind, lame and halt, and the poor things all begging. Then we drove along distance to S. Ambrogio, which I saw some years ago. Here there was a great service going on, and we could see nothing. So we came home, stopping on the way to buy some flowers. What a contrast to Florence - which was literally lined with flowers and roses. Here not a flower for sale on the streets, and hardly any PAGE 124 shops to be found of them. The streets of Milan are now so intersected by tramways that driving is impossible and uncomfortable. We found Lord Fitzhardinge and his party here just on their way up from Egypt, and Dr. Bridgman came to dine with us - and stayed until nearly 12 o'clock - talking continually in his amusing way. They go tomorrow direct to London - Clarence came back from Venice, enthusiastic, in time for dinner. Friday. April 30. This morning we spent at the Poldo, Pozzoli, and Ambrosiana - delightful but tiring. In the afternoon Dr. Bridgman and Clarence and Nettie went to the Brera - afterwards to the Cathedral - and back in time for lunch. It was so pleasant in our sitting room with its big windows opening to the Park, and the sweet fragrant air pouring in, that after tea we walked over, and looked at the trees, and the swans and pheasants. A beautiful soft evening, with great masses of clouds, touched with rosy light, giving promise of rain tomorrow. We start for Turin at 11:30 tomorrow morning. Saturday. May 1st. Turin. Grand Hotel de Turin. We left Milan at 10:30 this morning and arrived here at 2 P.M. After lunch we went immediately to the Musée, to see the Egyptian things we had so long wanted to see. After climbing 2 huge stone staircases we came to the Egyptian department, and looked in for a moment, and then PAGE 125 went on to the next floor very foolishly to see the paintings. Not much that is interesting, though we were much interested in seeing the Bugiardini with the little St. John, almost the exact counterpart of the St. John in Theodore's so called Francia. The subject was the Madonna and Child, adored by the infant St. John and a lovely picture it was. Berenson had written Theodore a year or more ago, that his picture was a Bugiardini and not a Francia and the other day at Fiesole he had shown him the photograph of this Turin picture, and quite convinced him of Bugiardini as the artist. We lingered so long with these pictures that we were too late for the Egyptian gallery - and put our visit off for tomorrow morning. Then we drove about the town, with its handsome well shaded streets and modern houses, and picturesque river bank, and were quite delighted with it - but long before we had finished our drive, one of the horses being rather restive broke his traces, and we were forced to leave the carriage - Nettie and I taking a cab to the hotel, and Theodore and Clarence walking. We are having a dull evening - in our big gloomy rooms - Theodore is not well - seems to have taken cold, and has been sleeping ever since dinner. Monday, May 3d. Hotel Westminster - Paris. Yesterday morning Theodore seemed much better, but not well enough to venture upon a visit to stony, cold galleries. So Nettie and I went off at 10 o'clock for a morning in the Egyptian department. What was our dismay and disgust at finding the Museum did not open until 1 o'clock - PAGE 126 and we starting for Paris at 2:10! So we ordered lunch at 12:30 and immediately afterwards started again for the Musée, intending to drive from there in half an hour to the station, meeting the rest there. On reaching the gallery we deposited our parasols with the custodian and quickly toiled up those great staircases, only to find the doors of the Egyptian department closed! No words could describe our indignation and dismay - we tried bribery - demanded the director, who was not there of course, and baffled and angry we had to return to our hotel - wishing we had gone as usual to Paris by the Basle and Lucerne route. We got away from Turin at 2:30 and found 2 very comfortable compartments reserved for us in the sleeping car - and the afternoon proved delightful. The Scenery was beautiful - grand with splendid effects - I think I never enjoyed a railway ride so much. As with the help of 2 powerful engines we climbed the Mt. Cenis mountain route, it was charming - green smiling plains - snow tipped mountains - streams of rushing, tumbling water pouring down the mountains sides - and every where fascinating Alpine plants growing - such as we try to cultivate in our rock gardens at home, and generally fail in doing. The night was very comfortable - our beds clean - and by 9 o'clock we were established in our familiar apartments here, which we have already occupied twice before. Paris looks quiet. Few Americans here, it is said. Tuesday, May 4. This morning I drove with Theodore away off to the Ave-de la Republique to Calmonts to buy a pair of field glasses for Fuli, and another PAGE 127 for Clarence. It was really cold, with piercing winds - and I was very uncomfortable. We stopped at the Hotel de France at Choiseul to see Mrs. Taylor and Florence - and found them both with bad colds, and made them promise to come and dine this evening. They have just gone home. Wednesday. May 5. A very dreadful thing happened here yesterday - about 4 o'clock in the afternoon: a charity Bazaar was being held in a large building built and often used for such purposes in the Rue Jean Gonjou near the Palais de l'Industrie. At the time it was crowded with people representing the very best element in French society. The Duchesse d'Alençon sister of the Queen of Austria being at the head of it. Suddenly flames broke out, in an instant the light painted wooden roof was in flames, and within 20 minutes the whole thing with nearly 200 of the audience, who did not succeed in in escaping, were all a charred and smoking mass. People escaped without clothing, and shoes. The crowd of waiting carriages did not receive half of their occupants - almost before help could be rendered the thing was over - the Duchesse d'Alençon was burned at her stall, and no remnant of her has been discovered. The streets are almost silent - a pall over the whole city - one thinks, talks, and sees nothing else. Never was a catastrophe so sudden - so complete - so full of horrible details. The weather is bad - cold - rain and even a little snow. PAGE 128 Thursday. May 6. We have plunged into the travail of dress making and shopping which seems almost heartless in this stunned and bereaved city. The daily details of this horrible accident grow worse and more harrowing. The whole civilized world stands aghast. The weather of yesterday repeats itself today, - rain, snow, and cold, cold winds. I am a little wretched - and so is Theodore. Terry Boal arrived today from Thonon - with his wife - having left the baby with his Aunt Sara and Annie at their home in Thonon. They are on their way to America - and why they have left the baby, with the mothers heart rent with grief, no one can say - their plans seem very vague and uncertain. Friday. May 7. This is Theodore's birthday - his 58 birthday. We made a little festa this afternoon, and asked Mrs. Taylor and Florence to tea, and Terry and Mathilde were here. A cold, rainy day - I spent most of the morning in Dr. Bull's office, having my eyes examined - and this afternoon Nettie and I tried to accomplish something, but were driven home by the wind and rain. Florence Talylor came to dinner, and has gone to the Opera with Theodore, Nettie and Clarence, to hear Lohengrin. The theatres have been closed for 2 days, on account of the dreadful catastrophe. This morning, I could hardly drive to the Flower market at the Madeline, on account of the carriages ranged around it, and the front draped in black. This is the day of most of the enterrements - some of the churches are dressed in white, marking the funerals of the young, the others in black. PAGE 129 Fourth Sunday after Easter. May 16. A week or more has gone by, with very little to chronicle, except continued bad and gloomy weather and constant shopping and sight seeing and wrestling with Paris dressmakers and milliners. It has seemed as if the weather were in mourning with the city. The Taylors dined with us last night and said goodbye and Terry and Mathilde come to dine tonight. We are off tomorrow for London, and very glad we all are. We are very much delighted these last days because Theodore has secured the beautiful Chigi Madonna of Botticelli for which he has been bargaining since before we left Rome. He has also stumbled upon a charmingly interesting painting of a Madonna and Child by that rare old Venetian painter the father of the Venetian school, Bartolemmeo Vivarini. He saw it a few days ago at Durand-Ruel's rooms - who had bought it with two or three old Italian daubs at an auction or sale from an old Paris family - he paid 400 dollars for it and evidently did not know its value. It was in a wretched condition - the panel warped and worm eaten. Theodore wanted it from the first and took me and Nettie to see it - we were charmed. Nettie pronounced it excellent and when a day or two after Theodore heard that the Louvre people were looking at it, he decided to buy it and have it transferred to canvas. He paid 1600 dollars for it. The Madonna is seated with the child on her knee - behind her a red curtain hung on a black cord, a gold background, beautifully dulled and reddened by time - signed - PAGE 130 London - Hotel Bristol. Friday - May 21. We came over from Paris last Monday the 17th - had a good but cold crossing - but a comfortable cabin, in which Nettie and I stretched ourselves out, and slept almost the whole way over. We have a gorgeous appartment here, on the first floor. London is very empty of Americans. Everyone is I suppose waiting for the Queen's 60th anniversary of her reign - it will be a great Jubilee - decorations and scaffoldings for seats are going up everywhere. The weather has been very good ever since our arrival - we have been busy shopping for the house and the dahabeah - seeing pictures and driving. Nettie and I go out to Sanderstead Court tomorrow to stay over Sunday with the Wallaces - and Theodore and Clarence go to Oxford to stay over Sunday. Monday. May 24. Nettie and I came back from Sanderstead Court this morning, where we had gone on Saturday to pay a visit to those dear Wallaces. The weather was bright - but a cold north east wind blowing - so that it was a great contrast to our last visit there. There was a pleasant house party - especially an interesting old woman, Miss Ogle of Northumberland and we talked and walked about the park, and the terrace, and investigated the gardens - Nettie sang to them in the evenings, to their great delight. There is such comfort and luxury in these English country houses. Gaspard Farrar came to dinner tonight. PAGE 131 Wednesday evening. May 26. We made our 3d visit to the National Gallery this morning - weather cold and threatening. We have found driving, even in the park, disagreeable. Busy shopping and seeing things. Last evening we dined at Sir William Farrars - and had a charming evening. Sir William in spite of his age and infirmities very interesting and agreeable. To the play this evening: "My Friend the Prince". Very laughable. Sunday - after Ascension. May 30. We spent a delightful day on Thursday. Going out to Sevenoaks where we had lunch at the "Royal Crown" and then drove to Knole - and saw that wonderful house with its picturesque courts and rooms and countless treasurers. Theodore and I were fascinated with the beautiful Persian rugs, which are said to have been in the house since the time of Queen Elizabeth. Then we walked and drove about the great park with its renowned beeches, until it was time to take the train back to London. Fielding was with us. On Friday, Theodore and Clarence went to Sanderstead Court to lunch - the day cold and stormy. Nettie and I went to the National Gallery, and took a drive and in the evening we all went to dine with Fielding and his sister Lady Winifride Cary-Elwes and such a pleasant evening, as they are musical, and Nettie sang a great deal - and it was after 12 o'clock when we came home. On Saturday Fielding and Mr. Cary-Elwes came early, and Nettie sang the PAGE 132 whole morning - they stayed to lunch, and most of the afternoon. Rain all day - Theodore went out to Hothorpe to stay until Monday. This morning, the weather being fairly pleasant, we decided, Nettie, Clarence and I, that we would go to Hampton Court - and ordered a carriage to be ready at 11 o'clock. Waited until half past, when the porter sent word he had not been able to get a carriage, having tried 3 stables. So very wrathfully we gave up Hampton Court, and ordered a hansom for the National Gallery - which we found closed, the policeman saying it was only open on Sunday from 2 to 6. Then we decided to go to Westminster Abbey, where we found the congregation just dispersing, and were told the Abbey was closed on Sunday between services. There was nothing then to do but come home and have lunch and start for Kno Gardens - for which we had ordered a carriage. We spent 2 delightful hours walking about there - and just after we got home, after 6 o'clock, Mrs. Davis, and Terry Boal and Mathilde arrived from Paris. Tuesday evening. June 1st. Nettie departed this morning for Florence. Afterwards Theodore and I went to the stores, and at the top of the first staircase, I met Mrs. Sandwith, just arrived from Cairo, and as she turned away, I saw Theodore speaking to Mr. Somers-Clarke who said he left Cairo a few days since, the thermometer had been 106 in the shade - and a damp heat at that. His boat is lying next the Beduin, at Shubron's yards. We left cards this afternoon on various friends - and settled our final arrangements - packing etc. Mrs. Davis, Clarence, Terry Boal and Mathilde all took an early PAGE 133 dinner, and departed for the Military Tournament - and at this hour 11:30 are not yet home. Lady Winifride and Mr. Cary-Elwes, Lady Agnes and Mr. de Trafford, and Mr. Fielding came to dinner with Theodore, and me at 8 o'clock, and we had a charming, jolly evening. Delightful people. They have just gone. We are off tomorrow at noon for Liverpool and will sail about 5 in the afternoon. 11

+
+ + Saturday, Feb. 27. + +

Today the Cheops, Columbia and Ammon-Ra came down. All went over early to the Tombs of the Kings for the day - I could not face the idea of such a long excursion in this heat - so stayed on the boat all day - and had a rest and did all manner of delightful little independent things. Intensely hot - I had "Nubia" part of the morning with me, but she was such a restless little colt, I had to send her away at 12 o'clock - quite happy with numerous possessions - the chief of which was a pair of red shoes - which Mohammed Schaiyeh, my singer, bought for her in the town. The family came back at 6:30 -powdered with dust, and tired, and clamouring for lemonade and tea - having had a delightful day. The Osiris came in this afternoon and is lying close behind us. Quinquagesima

+
+
+ + Sunday. Feb. 28. + +

We had thought of getting off today, but there was no wind, and Mr. Baldwin wants us to wait for him tomorrow. I did not leave the boat, in the afternoon the wind very high. Mrs. Constantine Read and her cousin made us a visit, and Mr. Shephard and his sister of the PAGE 106 Hyksos also came. He, the Engineer of the new railroad. Mohammed Mohassib also came.

+
+
+ + March 1st. Monday. + +

We did not get away until 7 o'clock this morning - and had not lost sight of the town when a very hard north wind sprang up, and after trying to float, gave it up and anchored, until about 4 o'clock, when it came out a little to the south, and we gladly spread our sails, and had soon come to a big turn in the river which brought the wind on our side, so that we could not keep off the bank. Found here tied up, under the same circumstances, the Osiris which left Luxor the day before us, and the Ammon-Ra who got away an hour before us this morning - and here we all are for the night. Two Mecca pilgrims going to Mecca stopped on the bank above us after the sun had gone down, to break the long fast of the day and eat their evening meal. They were dressed entirely in white, and had a donkey, carrying their luggage.

+
+
+ + March 2d. Tuesday. + +

A very early start this morning and rowing and floating in company with the Ammon-Ra and the Osiris, we reached Keneh about 3 o'clock, and the rest started in the felucca, before we reached the opposite landing for Denderah, and we floated down below and waited for them. Very hot for 2 hours - found the Columbia at Denderah. They reported on coming home, very unruly donkey boys, and very exciting rows with them. All the morning we were just in advance of the Osiris, PAGE 107 and she floated most unpleasantly near us - two or three times we were actually in collision side by side, and great commotion among the crews. Lord St. Oswald is on her. They all came back in an hour and a half, and we floated and rowed 3 or 4 miles farther down - and tied up with strong wind blowing from the north, at 6:30. I enjoyed a walk on deck while they were away - looking at the splendid desert mountains across the river beyond Keneh. What a hot, desolate spot Keneh must have been last summer, when the cholera raged so violently! I have never been in the town but once - and it lies so back from the river that it cannot be well seen. I suppose just now the Mecca pilgrims are crowding them on their way to Mecca - I should like to have ridden into the town today, and out a way upon the Koser road. The descriptions of this desert route have always fascinated me. We think we have made 31 miles today.

+
+
+ + Wednesday. March 3. + +

This is Ash Wednesday - and the last of the 30 days of Ramadan - for which we are truly thankful - for Rais Fuli - 2 Rais Mattar - Moomond the big Mohammed, and Baken the little sailor, all keep it rigourously. They represent the very pick of the crew - and things will now be more cheerful. This had been a distracting day. Such a mix as we, the Osiris, the Ammon-Ra, the Columbia and several large working boats have been in most of the day. I have never known such an experience - the wind has been from the north most of the time. Our crew have worked splendidly at their oars, and beaten all the others PAGE 108 out and out. It was a splendid triumph. The gale increased and at 5 o'clock we tied up, followed by all the others - and we are strung along the bank, within 2 or 3 miles of Kasr-el Sayd. After we landed we went to visit the Baldwins. We have made 25 miles - and are rolling a little uneasily in the wind.

+
+
+ + Thursday. March 4. + +

Made about 5 miles early this morning - heavy gale from the north has made it impossible to stir since 8 o'clock. We are 3 miles below Kasr el-Sayd.

+
+
+ + Friday. March 5. + +

Started at 5 o'clock this morning - and before I got up, while enjoying my book and cup of tea, we passed the bridge at Nagh-el-Hamadi. Ammon-Ra and Osiris ahead of us.

+
+
+ + Saturday. March 6. + +

Our men began rowing at 1 o'clock this morning - reached Balliana at 10:30 and started immediately for Abydos. That pleasant ride of 7 miles out and 7 back, never seemed so tiresome - for the very worst donkeys of all the notorious bad donkeys of Abydos or rather Balliana fell to our lot. The day was tremendously hot - the natives specially tormenting. I arrived at the temple more dead than alive - and by 3:30 we were in our saddles again - and I came home resolving PAGE 109 never to do that expedition again. The Ammon-Ra and Osiris did not stop - but the Chensu (English) and the Columbia (American Jews) did, and went to the Temple. We are having the most beautiful little new moon imaginable. For the first two nights it had the resplendent beams almost within its bow. The last winter we were here on the river we used constantly to see the Zodiacal lights - but I have not seen it this time. I saw in the Abydos fields today, the most beautiful light vivid green birds - large as our robin, but more slender and elegant.

+
+
+ + 1st Sunday in Lent. March 7. + +

Made from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. 27-1/2 miles - are now at Akmim.

+
+
+ + Monday. March 8. + +

Started early, and made Sohag by 9 o'clock - where we stopped to get coal and provisions and our mail. By 11 o'clock P.M. had come 6 miles below Sohag - making the whole day 11 miles. North wind.

+
+
+ + Tuesday. March 9. + +

Made 2 miles today early - tied up since in a gale - wind a little west of north - so that we are hoping it may move around to the south. We would like so much to have one record day of gentle south wind! Chonsu passed us, being so heavy, she floats fast. Columbia still behind. Had a row in the felucca. PAGE 110

+
+
+ + Wednesday. March 10. + +

Early this morning, we managed to make about 10 yards - but the wind increasing we tied up again - and now lying just as we did all day yesterday at the mercy of the wind, blowing across miles of sand. For days the sky has been full of clouds and last evening they were so ominous, that I hoped the night would bring rain, and perhaps break this deadly magic spell of north wind - but it has been even worse today. We have had the boat as tightly closed as possible, but the air everywhere has been thick with this fine, impalpable sand.

+
+
+ + Thursday. March 11. + +

Still lying at the same spot, and a gale still blowing - impossible to be on deck except for a walk near sunset - so much sand still flying - rugs cushions etc. all folded and packed away.

+
+
+ + Friday. March 12. + +

Got away at 6 o'clock and rowed and floated until about 10 - when the wind grew into such a sudden gale, we pulled with difficulty to the shore - where some work boats had taken refuge. Soon after the Nephtys, with the Duke of Hamilton, and a tug came down the river, and came to the shore just below us. 3 miles today.

+
+
+ + Saturday. March 13. + +

Started in a light wind at 6 A.M. at 11 it was blowing such a gale that we tied up at the high cliffs about 2 miles above and opposite PAGE 111 Tahtah. Just where there is a group of palms - and the white little mosque against the yellow cliffs. Luckily it was not a hot day, or the reflection from those towering limestone cliffs would have been insufferable. But how the wind has blown - in our sheltered position however we got no sand. The canvass on the river side, and over the deck, and at the back were put up - leaving the land side with its pretty sights open - and under the hooded seats, the deck was charming for sitting. All the others went to walk, but I took mine on the clean deck. The Columbia came in sight this morning, and drew up just above us. At 6:30 we both went off, in the bright moonlight, the wind having fallen very much - and the men are still rowing. (They rowed until 12:30, thus making 27 miles).

+
+
+ + Second Sunday in Lent. March 14. + +

Started early rowing. North wind strong most of the day. We are now tied up 2 miles above Assiut - the lights of the town plainly to be seen. Columbia near us. A superb sunset.

+
+
+ + Monda,. March 15. + +

Between marketing, getting in coke, and the mail, we were at Assiut, until after one o'clock. The afternoon a regular gale blowing, made 2 miles at 8 o'clock. PAGE 112

+
+
+ + Tuesday. March 16. + +

We are now beginning to calculate the distance made from 1:30 P.M. of each day. Since that time last night we have made 32 miles - and have passed the troublesome Gebel Abufedah, and are anchored in the stream. We have an almost full moon now, and lovely effects this evening.

+
+
+ + Wednesday. March 17. + +

Made 21 miles - were blown ashore in the strong wind early in the afternoon near Haggi Kandul - and a lot of noisy children and rough looking men hung about the boat making it hideous with their clamour. We got away from that unpleasant neighborhood and floated down until 10 o'clock. Such a radiant night!

+
+
+ + Thursday. March 18. + +

We have made 25 miles in the last 24 hours - the day being the calmest we have had and the hottest. We were all driven down stairs after luncheon by the heat. Passed Beni Hassan at one o'clock - but did not stop - as we are so belated. Every day Theodore says "tomorrow" I shall telegraph for a tug, if the south sind doesn't come. Each day we hopefully look for it - and we would even welcome a Khamseen. We reached Minieh at 7 o'clock and got our mail, and will lie here all night. The full moon was wonderfully beautiful and the night so soft. A heavy mist however lying along the river. PAGE 113

+
+
+ + Friday. March 19. + +

An early start, and rowing and occasional sailing, or lying by when the wind was too strong, has brought us to within 3 miles of Fashen - making since 1:30, 44 miles, or 61-1/2 from Minieh this morning - a strange, wonderful sunset - and a cloudy night.

+
+
+ + Saturday - March 20. + +

Started at 6 A.M. made Benisoef about 1:30 - and a drifting and sailing delightfully along before a light wind, all the afternoon, we are now lying 7 miles from Wasta, - 54-1/2 miles since 1:30 yesterday, and 25 miles since 1:30 today. Medum in sight.

+
+
+ + Third Sunday in Lent. March 21st. + +

An early start in a good wind brought us along so surprisingly that we were near Bedrascheen at 10:30, having discovered some minutes before that beautiful view of the dome and slender minarets of Mohammed Ali - shining in the sun above the thick haze, looking like some enchanted palace. The sailing was so fine, and the Beduin showing her paces so splendidly, that we suddenly decided we would not stop for the visit to Sakkarah, and kept on for the Museum landing at Ghizeh. The sky being full of great clouds, very unlike Egypt - all the morning the blue sky making such delightful contrasts with their great swelling white domes, and the pyramids of Lisht, Dashur, and Sakkarah showing splendidly - until quite in a moment the clouds grew dirty and the atmosphere thick, the wind increased, and we were blown to the bank, with PAGE 114 great effort escaping collision with the rocky foundation of a big sakiyeh on the top of which as usual a blindfolded bullock was walking round and round his wheel. Here we have been ever since, the wind growing into a gale, and the opposite shore almost hidden by the clouds of sand blowing across its sandy waste. We are quite sheltered here from it, though we get enough of it as the atmosphere is so charged with it and when in the afternoon it began softly to rain, the drops seemed like mud, and made a fine mess of our clean windows. The waves beat so high and roughly on the lee shore against which we lay, that the two feluccas, were in danger, and our men worked almost stripped, for 2 hours before they were bailed and lifted to a place of safety. In my stern room the uproar was tremendous - Theodore and Clarence went for a walk, but were driven home by the wind and rain, and there was a great fracas on deck, getting everything under canvass, safe from the wet. The men are always so funny with a rain - like children with a snow storm, and never seem quite to know what to do - 67 miles to 1:30 today. At 11 o'clock this evening, I saw two or three stars showing.

+
+
+ + Monday, March 22. + +

We attempted to get on this A.M. at 6 o'clock and succeeded only in making a start and were driven to shore about Old Cairo - tremendous wind, and rain almost amounting to hail in the afternoon - and with our new decks so warped, we came to great grief - the boat leaking in many places - so that when Theodore and Clarence came back from Cairo, where they went and had lunch and came back late in the PAGE 115 afternoon - they found us with curtains taken down from the windows, and bowls and pans standing about everywhere. They were so pleased to get home - they were ineffably amiable - said it seemed after Cairo like Paradise.

+
+
+ + Tuesday. March 23. + +

We made the Museum landing at Ghizeh this morning early - and fortunately we were to have accomplished it - for the wind has increased in violence - it has been a gale all day - and it is cold and disagreeable - a bad March day for any part of the world. We spent a pleasant morning however at the Museum - and had it all to ourselves. Theodore and Clarence have been into Cairo, and report it dismal.

+
+
+ + Wednesday. March 24. + +

A gale all day - with rain now and then. Morning at the Museum - Salah came out to see us.

+
+
+ + Thursday. March 25. + +

Very busy all the morning with the various work people coming to the boat. Carpenters, painters, upholsterer, sail makers. Mary and I drove in the afternoon - charming and warmer - Cairo very pretty with flowering shrubs and vines - very quiet and empty. Poor Abdul had been quite ill for some days, and so suffering that we sent for Dr. Sandwith yesterday, who said he must go to the hospital for a few days. So this PAGE 116 morning the men with Jones, took him down in the felucca- being able to go quite to its doors in the boat. He is a great loss to us just at present not being simply the valued servant, but interpreter. Fortunately we have fallen back on Salah, who fortunately has no engagement just now, and comes out to us every day. Excessively warm. I have never been in Cairo when so warm.

+
+
+ + Friday. March 26. + +

Mrs. Taylor and Florence came this morning and made a visit, and were very pleasant - putting us en rapport with everything in and about Cairo - asking us to dine on Saturday with them at the Gesireh to meet Sir John Scott, who wants to know Theodore, and whom Theodore is very keen to meet. Sir John is Judicial Advisor to the Khedive, and did excellent work in India before coming here to help straighten out Egyptian affairs. In the afternoon went to the races - which were rather slow - met Mrs. Hamilton Lang and her daughter - saw Gen. Kitchener, the Sirdâr and other notables.

+
+
+ + Fourth Sunday in Lent. March 28. + +

I was ill all day yesterday, and could not go to dinner with Mrs. Taylor - which was reported very pleasant. This afternoon Dr. and Mrs. Sandwith came to tea - and Mrs. Taylor and Florence, and her fiancé Mr. Morice to dine. We had a nice evening. PAGE 117

+
+
+ + Tuesday. March 30. Cairo. + +

We came over to Shepheards this afternoon - and are in the corner room we had 5 years ago, when Fielding was with us. Then it was cold and we had a fire in the big sitting room. Now it is so hot, that we have all the windows open at night and shut during the day to keep out the heat. But it is very noisy and smelly. I do not like it, although my balcony opens on the pretty garden. Hotel quite empty - very tired from yesterday - packing and arranging.

+
+
+ + Wednesday, March 31. + +

Over at the boat which still lies at Ghizeh - and where our Rais intends to stay all summer because it is so much cooler. Delightful drive in the afternoon.

+
+
+ + Thursday, April 1st. + +

Theodore and Clarence went to the Courts of Justice this morning with Sir John Scott and Mr. Morice, and were much interested. Abdul came back from the hospital, very weak and thin, but almost well. A bothersome time for days getting all the carpets, curtains, stuffs, etc. of the boat safely packed away from dangers of moths and vermin. The boat reeks with the smell of Naphthaline and Camphor. The poor Beduin, so changed - closed and dark, with her thick brown summer awnings enshrouding her - all the men gone but Rais Fuli, and Arbuk, the nice little crew cook, who stays with the Captain - and Abdul, who will live with Fuli on the boat, and look after the inside cleaning - as he PAGE 118 reads and writes English, it will be very convenient for us - and Rais Fuli is immensely glad to have him. The Taylors sailed for Marseilles today in the Clyde.

+
+
+ + Friday, April 2d. + +

We were obliged to go again to the boat to confer with the old French painter as to the colours for the outside. Then goodbye to all - and a delightful drive. Theodore and Clarence on their horses with us most of the way. The air has been quite delightful for 2 days - all our friends beg us to stay for the charming April weather. We are off tomorrow morning for Alexandria and sail for Brindisi in the afternoon.

+
+
+ + Rome. Bristol Hotel. April 15. + +

A long interval in this journal. We left Alexandria the afternoon of the 3d in the fine new S.S. Bohemia for Brindisi. Weather very warm - and we were glad of the welcome change which two or three hours at sea brought. Boat very comfortable - but passage rough - almost every one in his bed - I stayed in mine Sunday and Monday - and we landed at Brindisi at 5 o'clock and made our train, because they were complaisant enough to hold our train 40 minutes for us. The long ride to Naples was not so tiring, and seemed more pleasant than usual. So delightful the country seemed in its fresh spring greenness - and the huge vegetable garden which stretches as far as the eye can see, without boundaries, for miles before reaching Naples, is something quite wonderful. Everything planted under the thin foliaged trees, with their garlands PAGE 119 of vines stretching from tree to tree. We found pleasant rooms at the Grand Hotel, but Theodore had taken a cold in crossing, which developed into a light form of grippe, which gave him much suffering and restlessness - and he had the Doctor (Malbrane) who is always so simple and helpful, and stayed in the room all the time, and one day in bed. As the weather was not good, clouds everywhere, Vesuvius and the islands hidden from view most of the time, I stayed at home with Theodore - and on Saturday the 10th he was well enough to come on here - Clarence, Mary, Amilie and Jones spent one day at Pompeii, and Clarence the next day at Vesuvius. We had rooms engaged at the Quirinal, but found them much too small and fortunately having had an offer from the Bristol we came here, which is always my favorite hotel in Rome. But alas, I have since coming here developed the grippe also - and have been in bed and in the house all the time until yesterday, as uncomfortable as I ever remember of being - with Dr. Bull in daily attendance. All the world more or less is in Rome - and to my thinking Holy Week is not the time to visit Rome, unless one is interested in church ceremonies. The pictures in churches covered, many galleries closed etc.

+
+
+ + Hotel Grande Bretagne. Florence. April 22. + +

We got away from Rome Tuesday the 20th at 9 o'clock in the morning - I was glad to leave - for Mary had taken cold, and we were all under the weather. On Easter Sunday, I was able to drive out 7 miles on the Campagna to the Villa Livia, where we met by invitation Mrs. Elliott, who had asked some of her friends to take tea with us there. PAGE 120 Mrs. Stillman, the once favorite beauty was there - Mr. Larz Anderson - the young Swedish American sculptor Anderson, whose mother lives in Newport was there and others. It was not quite my idea of enjoyment - sitting at 5 o'clock P.M. on rugs on the ground at the top of a windy hill - but Mrs. Elliott's intention was good and kind. The next morning, Theodore, Mary and I went to St. Peters and saw the lovely Melozzo angels and frescoes in the inner sacristy - then drove to the Colosseum and along the Via S. Gregorio, the morning being quite warm and beautiful. Theodore went to lunch with the Elliotts, and in the afternoon Mary and I drove to the Villa Doria Pamphilia, the lovely grounds of which were full of people, it being Easter Monday and a holiday. But the weather had changed and the wind was cold - so we drove to the Piazzo Rusticucci to say goodbye to Mrs. Elliott and had a pleasant visit - meeting for the first time Mr. Elliott - a handsome, rather invalid looking man, whom I liked - especially when he took me on to his roof garden which he cultivates entirely himself, and which has charming views of S. Pietro and the whole quarter. It was gay with vines and climbing roses and flowers and quite fascinating. Clarence met us there, and after tea we all drove home. Mrs. Elliott and her cousin Miss Von Ralem having dined with us the night before. We had a pleasant ride to Florence, found Nettie waiting for us, and who soon went off with Mary. We have pleasant rooms here overlooking the Arno and Ponto Vecchio, and we, that is Theodore and I, have decided to stay here and not go to Venice - Clarence will go alone. PAGE 121

+
+
+ + April 24. Saturday. + +

We are having a rainy day - Nettie and I however went for a little shopping this morning - before the rain began - the wind was blowing and the dust flying however. We brought up at Pelotti's where we met Theodore, and looked at many enticing things. Mr. Berenson came to lunch - and after Lieutenant Niblock called - home all the afternoon the rain pouring. Theodore still has a troublesome cold, and I have quite mended. Yesterday morning, Nettie, Theodore and I drove a long time in the lovely Cascine. In the afternoon a visit to the Bardini palace with its fascinating collection, and then a visit to Lizzie - Mary and Clarence have been busy each day doing Florence. This afternoon Clarence went off alone to Venice, charged with the precious things and the mission to the Armenian convent of St. Lazarre. We have done the Uffizzi and Academia, and had a lovely afternoon at San Miniato. Wednesday evening Mrs. Bend and her daughters dined with us, and on Thursday Mrs. Costellar and Berenson.

+
+
+ + Sunday after Easter. April 25. + +

We are just home from the Victoria Hotel, where we have been dining with Mrs. Bend and spent a pleasant evening with her and her two pretty girls. The day has been lovely - Nettie and I had a delicious morning together at the Pitti - and afterwards went to the church of the Carmine to see the Masaccio frescoes - which I knew well from my photographs - and could therefore intelligently enjoy in detail, despite the darkness of the little chapel where they are, and their faded condition. PAGE 122 Lizzie Buttles and both girls came to lunch, and stayed to tea. After they had gone, Mrs. Baldwin called. I found her simple, pleasant and unaffected - and I enjoyed talking to her. She has asked us to lunch on Tuesday.

+
+
+ + Monday. April 26. + +

After a morning with Mary and Theodore at the Bargello, among the della Robias and Donatellos - Theodore and I drove out to the Villa Rosa at Fiesole to lunch with Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. A nice scotch woman was there - a Miss Christina Breenner - worker in and writer on education of women. A pleasant visit, and much talking - and a charming drive down the hill and a turn in the Cascine which was quite too lovely - none of the gay throng having arrived - the air so delicious - the birds singing like mad. We had to hurry home, for Mrs. Bend and her girls were coming to tea to meet Lizzie and the girls. Nettie, poor child, detained at home with one of her bad neuralgia headaches - Theodore and I dined alone - and have had a quiet evening, writing letters.

+
+
+ + Tuesday, April 27. + +

Such a busy day - shopping this morning - lunching at Dr. Baldwins - where we had a delightful visit - and a beautiful luncheon, the house charming - home to meet Nettie for some searching of photographs at Alinaris - then to Lizzies to tea - and Nettie sang for us in splendid voice. Then a drive with Theodore and Mary in the Cascine. Mary came to dine, and Nettie came for her with Hassan in the evening. PAGE 123 Afterwards Theodore and I went up to Mrs. Woodward Haven's rooms to pay a visit and say goodbye. Weather very warm - off tomorrow for Milan.

+
+
+ + Wednesday. April 28th. + +

A very busy morning with Mary - Lizzie and the girls came to lunch - and at 2 o'clock we had to say goodbye to Lizzie and Mary - and Nettie, Theodore and I started for Milan, which we reached comfortably enough at 10 o'clock - taking possession of our old, pleasant rooms at this Hotel Cavour.

+
+
+ + Thursday. April 29. + +

Theodore, Nettie and I started out at 10 o'clock for the Brera - where we stayed quite 2 hours - this afternoon Nettie and I drove to the other end of everywhere, to the interesting little church of S. Eustorgio. We found it was a festa, and the little piazza in front of the church full of bazaars and peasants. As the especial picture we wanted to see was near the entrance, we got the wife of the Sacristan to open it for us - the picture is a lovely one of the Madonna enthroned by Borgognone. The 3 different entrances to the church were lined with collections of blind, lame and halt, and the poor things all begging. Then we drove along distance to S. Ambrogio, which I saw some years ago. Here there was a great service going on, and we could see nothing. So we came home, stopping on the way to buy some flowers. What a contrast to Florence - which was literally lined with flowers and roses. Here not a flower for sale on the streets, and hardly any PAGE 124 shops to be found of them. The streets of Milan are now so intersected by tramways that driving is impossible and uncomfortable. We found Lord Fitzhardinge and his party here just on their way up from Egypt, and Dr. Bridgman came to dine with us - and stayed until nearly 12 o'clock - talking continually in his amusing way. They go tomorrow direct to London - Clarence came back from Venice, enthusiastic, in time for dinner.

+
+
+ + Friday. April 30. + +

This morning we spent at the Poldo, Pozzoli, and Ambrosiana - delightful but tiring. In the afternoon Dr. Bridgman and Clarence and Nettie went to the Brera - afterwards to the Cathedral - and back in time for lunch. It was so pleasant in our sitting room with its big windows opening to the Park, and the sweet fragrant air pouring in, that after tea we walked over, and looked at the trees, and the swans and pheasants. A beautiful soft evening, with great masses of clouds, touched with rosy light, giving promise of rain tomorrow. We start for Turin at 11:30 tomorrow morning.

+
+
+ + Saturday. May 1st. Turin. Grand Hotel de Turin. + +

We left Milan at 10:30 this morning and arrived here at 2 P.M. After lunch we went immediately to the Musée, to see the Egyptian things we had so long wanted to see. After climbing 2 huge stone staircases we came to the Egyptian department, and looked in for a moment, and then PAGE 125 went on to the next floor very foolishly to see the paintings. Not much that is interesting, though we were much interested in seeing the Bugiardini with the little St. John, almost the exact counterpart of the St. John in Theodore's so called Francia. The subject was the Madonna and Child, adored by the infant St. John and a lovely picture it was. Berenson had written Theodore a year or more ago, that his picture was a Bugiardini and not a Francia and the other day at Fiesole he had shown him the photograph of this Turin picture, and quite convinced him of Bugiardini as the artist. We lingered so long with these pictures that we were too late for the Egyptian gallery - and put our visit off for tomorrow morning. Then we drove about the town, with its handsome well shaded streets and modern houses, and picturesque river bank, and were quite delighted with it - but long before we had finished our drive, one of the horses being rather restive broke his traces, and we were forced to leave the carriage - Nettie and I taking a cab to the hotel, and Theodore and Clarence walking. We are having a dull evening - in our big gloomy rooms - Theodore is not well - seems to have taken cold, and has been sleeping ever since dinner.

+
+
+ + Monday, May 3d. Hotel Westminster - Paris. + +

Yesterday morning Theodore seemed much better, but not well enough to venture upon a visit to stony, cold galleries. So Nettie and I went off at 10 o'clock for a morning in the Egyptian department. What was our dismay and disgust at finding the Museum did not open until 1 o'clock - PAGE 126 and we starting for Paris at 2:10! So we ordered lunch at 12:30 and immediately afterwards started again for the Musée, intending to drive from there in half an hour to the station, meeting the rest there. On reaching the gallery we deposited our parasols with the custodian and quickly toiled up those great staircases, only to find the doors of the Egyptian department closed! No words could describe our indignation and dismay - we tried bribery - demanded the director, who was not there of course, and baffled and angry we had to return to our hotel - wishing we had gone as usual to Paris by the Basle and Lucerne route. We got away from Turin at 2:30 and found 2 very comfortable compartments reserved for us in the sleeping car - and the afternoon proved delightful. The Scenery was beautiful - grand with splendid effects - I think I never enjoyed a railway ride so much. As with the help of 2 powerful engines we climbed the Mt. Cenis mountain route, it was charming - green smiling plains - snow tipped mountains - streams of rushing, tumbling water pouring down the mountains sides - and every where fascinating Alpine plants growing - such as we try to cultivate in our rock gardens at home, and generally fail in doing. The night was very comfortable - our beds clean - and by 9 o'clock we were established in our familiar apartments here, which we have already occupied twice before. Paris looks quiet. Few Americans here, it is said.

+
+
+ + Tuesday, May 4. + +

This morning I drove with Theodore away off to the Ave-de la Republique to Calmonts to buy a pair of field glasses for Fuli, and another PAGE 127 for Clarence. It was really cold, with piercing winds - and I was very uncomfortable. We stopped at the Hotel de France at Choiseul to see Mrs. Taylor and Florence - and found them both with bad colds, and made them promise to come and dine this evening. They have just gone home.

+
+
+ + Wednesday. May 5. + +

A very dreadful thing happened here yesterday - about 4 o'clock in the afternoon: a charity Bazaar was being held in a large building built and often used for such purposes in the Rue Jean Gonjou near the Palais de l'Industrie. At the time it was crowded with people representing the very best element in French society. The Duchesse d'Alençon sister of the Queen of Austria being at the head of it. Suddenly flames broke out, in an instant the light painted wooden roof was in flames, and within 20 minutes the whole thing with nearly 200 of the audience, who did not succeed in in escaping, were all a charred and smoking mass. People escaped without clothing, and shoes. The crowd of waiting carriages did not receive half of their occupants - almost before help could be rendered the thing was over - the Duchesse d'Alençon was burned at her stall, and no remnant of her has been discovered. The streets are almost silent - a pall over the whole city - one thinks, talks, and sees nothing else. Never was a catastrophe so sudden - so complete - so full of horrible details. The weather is bad - cold - rain and even a little snow. PAGE 128

+
+
+ + Thursday. May 6. + +

We have plunged into the travail of dress making and shopping which seems almost heartless in this stunned and bereaved city. The daily details of this horrible accident grow worse and more harrowing. The whole civilized world stands aghast. The weather of yesterday repeats itself today, - rain, snow, and cold, cold winds. I am a little wretched - and so is Theodore. Terry Boal arrived today from Thonon - with his wife - having left the baby with his Aunt Sara and Annie at their home in Thonon. They are on their way to America - and why they have left the baby, with the mothers heart rent with grief, no one can say - their plans seem very vague and uncertain.

+
+
+ + Friday. May 7. + +

This is Theodore's birthday - his 58 birthday. We made a little festa this afternoon, and asked Mrs. Taylor and Florence to tea, and Terry and Mathilde were here. A cold, rainy day - I spent most of the morning in Dr. Bull's office, having my eyes examined - and this afternoon Nettie and I tried to accomplish something, but were driven home by the wind and rain. Florence Talylor came to dinner, and has gone to the Opera with Theodore, Nettie and Clarence, to hear Lohengrin. The theatres have been closed for 2 days, on account of the dreadful catastrophe. This morning, I could hardly drive to the Flower market at the Madeline, on account of the carriages ranged around it, and the front draped in black. This is the day of most of the enterrements - some of the churches are dressed in white, marking the funerals of the young, the others in black. PAGE 129

+
+
+ + Fourth Sunday after Easter. May 16. + +

A week or more has gone by, with very little to chronicle, except continued bad and gloomy weather and constant shopping and sight seeing and wrestling with Paris dressmakers and milliners. It has seemed as if the weather were in mourning with the city. The Taylors dined with us last night and said goodbye and Terry and Mathilde come to dine tonight. We are off tomorrow for London, and very glad we all are. We are very much delighted these last days because Theodore has secured the beautiful Chigi Madonna of Botticelli for which he has been bargaining since before we left Rome. He has also stumbled upon a charmingly interesting painting of a Madonna and Child by that rare old Venetian painter the father of the Venetian school, Bartolemmeo Vivarini. He saw it a few days ago at Durand-Ruel's rooms - who had bought it with two or three old Italian daubs at an auction or sale from an old Paris family - he paid 400 dollars for it and evidently did not know its value. It was in a wretched condition - the panel warped and worm eaten. Theodore wanted it from the first and took me and Nettie to see it - we were charmed. Nettie pronounced it excellent and when a day or two after Theodore heard that the Louvre people were looking at it, he decided to buy it and have it transferred to canvas. He paid 1600 dollars for it. The Madonna is seated with the child on her knee - behind her a red curtain hung on a black cord, a gold background, beautifully dulled and reddened by time - signed - PAGE 130

+
+
+ + London - Hotel Bristol.Friday - May 21. + +

We came over from Paris last Monday the 17th - had a good but cold crossing - but a comfortable cabin, in which Nettie and I stretched ourselves out, and slept almost the whole way over. We have a gorgeous appartment here, on the first floor. London is very empty of Americans. Everyone is I suppose waiting for the Queen's 60th anniversary of her reign - it will be a great Jubilee - decorations and scaffoldings for seats are going up everywhere. The weather has been very good ever since our arrival - we have been busy shopping for the house and the dahabeah - seeing pictures and driving. Nettie and I go out to Sanderstead Court tomorrow to stay over Sunday with the Wallaces - and Theodore and Clarence go to Oxford to stay over Sunday.

+
+
+ + Monday. May 24. + +

Nettie and I came back from Sanderstead Court this morning, where we had gone on Saturday to pay a visit to those dear Wallaces. The weather was bright - but a cold north east wind blowing - so that it was a great contrast to our last visit there. There was a pleasant house party - especially an interesting old woman, Miss Ogle of Northumberland and we talked and walked about the park, and the terrace, and investigated the gardens - Nettie sang to them in the evenings, to their great delight. There is such comfort and luxury in these English country houses. Gaspard Farrar came to dinner tonight. PAGE 131 Wednesday evening. May 26. We made our 3d visit to the National Gallery this morning - weather cold and threatening. We have found driving, even in the park, disagreeable. Busy shopping and seeing things. Last evening we dined at Sir William Farrars - and had a charming evening. Sir William in spite of his age and infirmities very interesting and agreeable. To the play this evening: "My Friend the Prince". Very laughable.

+
+
+ + Sunday - after Ascension. May 30. + +

We spent a delightful day on Thursday. Going out to Sevenoaks where we had lunch at the "Royal Crown" and then drove to Knole - and saw that wonderful house with its picturesque courts and rooms and countless treasurers. Theodore and I were fascinated with the beautiful Persian rugs, which are said to have been in the house since the time of Queen Elizabeth. Then we walked and drove about the great park with its renowned beeches, until it was time to take the train back to London. Fielding was with us. On Friday, Theodore and Clarence went to Sanderstead Court to lunch - the day cold and stormy. Nettie and I went to the National Gallery, and took a drive and in the evening we all went to dine with Fielding and his sister Lady Winifride Cary-Elwes and such a pleasant evening, as they are musical, and Nettie sang a great deal - and it was after 12 o'clock when we came home. On Saturday Fielding and Mr. Cary-Elwes came early, and Nettie sang the PAGE 132 whole morning - they stayed to lunch, and most of the afternoon. Rain all day - Theodore went out to Hothorpe to stay until Monday. This morning, the weather being fairly pleasant, we decided, Nettie, Clarence and I, that we would go to Hampton Court - and ordered a carriage to be ready at 11 o'clock. Waited until half past, when the porter sent word he had not been able to get a carriage, having tried 3 stables. So very wrathfully we gave up Hampton Court, and ordered a hansom for the National Gallery - which we found closed, the policeman saying it was only open on Sunday from 2 to 6. Then we decided to go to Westminster Abbey, where we found the congregation just dispersing, and were told the Abbey was closed on Sunday between services. There was nothing then to do but come home and have lunch and start for Kno Gardens - for which we had ordered a carriage. We spent 2 delightful hours walking about there - and just after we got home, after 6 o'clock, Mrs. Davis, and Terry Boal and Mathilde arrived from Paris.

+
+
+ + Tuesday evening. June 1st. + +

Nettie departed this morning for Florence. Afterwards Theodore and I went to the stores, and at the top of the first staircase, I met Mrs. Sandwith, just arrived from Cairo, and as she turned away, I saw Theodore speaking to Mr. Somers-Clarke who said he left Cairo a few days since, the thermometer had been 106 in the shade - and a damp heat at that. His boat is lying next the Beduin, at Shubron's yards. We left cards this afternoon on various friends - and settled our final arrangements - packing etc. Mrs. Davis, Clarence, Terry Boal and Mathilde all took an early PAGE 133 dinner, and departed for the Military Tournament - and at this hour 11:30 are not yet home. Lady Winifride and Mr. Cary-Elwes, Lady Agnes and Mr. de Trafford, and Mr. Fielding came to dinner with Theodore, and me at 8 o'clock, and we had a charming, jolly evening. Delightful people. They have just gone. We are off tomorrow at noon for Liverpool and will sail about 5 in the afternoon. 11

From bbb5747bdeaf32f4d79ce5d4e2d0081b833bffff Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: ionahillman <93552722+ionahillman@users.noreply.github.com> Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2021 14:33:17 -0700 Subject: [PATCH 05/15] test update --- diary-volumes/volume4.xml | 4 ++-- 1 file changed, 2 insertions(+), 2 deletions(-) diff --git a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml index b487b7757..d7b02d39a 100644 --- a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml +++ b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml @@ -37,9 +37,9 @@
- S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896. + S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896. -

PAGE 73 S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896 We sailed at 10 o'clock on Saturday the 14th - Mr. Convers, Mr. Luling and Mr. Jevons were down to see us off. A cold bright morning - and the cold lasted until yesterday - everyone congealed - but we are now in warmer waters - and constant sunshine - I have a large bright room - at a table in which I am writing. The sun looks into my port by day, and the moon by night -for we have fortunately fallen upon the second quarter of the moon. The last thing I do, after having turned out the light at night, is to climb up on the sofa, and take a look at the night, and the wide waste: of blue black water, in which our ship makes its great furrow of dashing white foam - what a beautiful immensity it is, and a grand picture to carry into the oblivion of the night. There are comparatively few passangers - and I have never known such pleasant ones. The Hamilton Fisks of New York - Dr. Doty, the Health Officer of the N. Y. Port, Mrs. Ward Howe Elliot, the daughter of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe - and a Mr. Pratt - now American Consul General at Singapore, and for five years our Minister to Persia - a really cultivated man. We all have tea together in the afternoon, and make very merry - and we have Mrs. Bend of New York and her two daughters at our table. I asked Mr. Pratt how long Benjamin, former Minister to Persia, had lived in that country, and he said 3 years. I said that was rather a short time acquaintance with a country about which to write an exhaustive work. He tole me Benjamin had given great offence to the Shela, and others in his book - and that he had seen absolutely nothing of parts of Persia about which he writes.

+

S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896 We sailed at 10 o'clock on Saturday the 14th - Mr. Convers, Mr. Luling and Mr. Jevons were down to see us off. A cold bright morning - and the cold lasted until yesterday - everyone congealed - but we are now in warmer waters - and constant sunshine - I have a large bright room - at a table in which I am writing. The sun looks into my port by day, and the moon by night -for we have fortunately fallen upon the second quarter of the moon. The last thing I do, after having turned out the light at night, is to climb up on the sofa, and take a look at the night, and the wide waste: of blue black water, in which our ship makes its great furrow of dashing white foam - what a beautiful immensity it is, and a grand picture to carry into the oblivion of the night. There are comparatively few passangers - and I have never known such pleasant ones. The Hamilton Fisks of New York - Dr. Doty, the Health Officer of the N. Y. Port, Mrs. Ward Howe Elliot, the daughter of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe - and a Mr. Pratt - now American Consul General at Singapore, and for five years our Minister to Persia - a really cultivated man. We all have tea together in the afternoon, and make very merry - and we have Mrs. Bend of New York and her two daughters at our table. I asked Mr. Pratt how long Benjamin, former Minister to Persia, had lived in that country, and he said 3 years. I said that was rather a short time acquaintance with a country about which to write an exhaustive work. He tole me Benjamin had given great offence to the Shela, and others in his book - and that he had seen absolutely nothing of parts of Persia about which he writes.

From e0050d455fac94e95e0431cb0c7f1d6979ff5df1 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Thurst2165 <59519420+Thurst2165@users.noreply.github.com> Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2021 00:58:34 -0700 Subject: [PATCH 06/15] Update volume4.xml --- diary-volumes/volume4.xml | 198 +++++++++++++++++++------------------- 1 file changed, 99 insertions(+), 99 deletions(-) diff --git a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml index d7b02d39a..5d7269376 100644 --- a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml +++ b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml @@ -35,296 +35,296 @@ -
+
S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896. -

S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896 We sailed at 10 o'clock on Saturday the 14th - Mr. Convers, Mr. Luling and Mr. Jevons were down to see us off. A cold bright morning - and the cold lasted until yesterday - everyone congealed - but we are now in warmer waters - and constant sunshine - I have a large bright room - at a table in which I am writing. The sun looks into my port by day, and the moon by night -for we have fortunately fallen upon the second quarter of the moon. The last thing I do, after having turned out the light at night, is to climb up on the sofa, and take a look at the night, and the wide waste: of blue black water, in which our ship makes its great furrow of dashing white foam - what a beautiful immensity it is, and a grand picture to carry into the oblivion of the night. There are comparatively few passangers - and I have never known such pleasant ones. The Hamilton Fisks of New York - Dr. Doty, the Health Officer of the N. Y. Port, Mrs. Ward Howe Elliot, the daughter of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe - and a Mr. Pratt - now American Consul General at Singapore, and for five years our Minister to Persia - a really cultivated man. We all have tea together in the afternoon, and make very merry - and we have Mrs. Bend of New York and her two daughters at our table. I asked Mr. Pratt how long Benjamin, former Minister to Persia, had lived in that country, and he said 3 years. I said that was rather a short time acquaintance with a country about which to write an exhaustive work. He tole me Benjamin had given great offence to the Shela, and others in his book - and that he had seen absolutely nothing of parts of Persia about which he writes.

+

S.S. Gens. We sailed at 10 o'clock on Saturday the 14th - Mr. Convers, Mr. Luling and Mr. Jevons were down to see us off. A cold bright morning - and the cold lasted until yesterday - everyone congealed - but we are now in warmer waters - and constant sunshine - I have a large bright room - at a table in which I am writing. The sun looks into my port by day, and the moon by night -for we have fortunately fallen upon the second quarter of the moon. The last thing I do, after having turned out the light at night, is to climb up on the sofa, and take a look at the night, and the wide waste: of blue black water, in which our ship makes its great furrow of dashing white foam - what a beautiful immensity it is, and a grand picture to carry into the oblivion of the night. There are comparatively few passangers - and I have never known such pleasant ones. The Hamilton Fisks of New York - Dr. Doty, the Health Officer of the N. Y. Port, Mrs. Ward Howe Elliot, the daughter of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe - and a Mr. Pratt - now American Consul General at Singapore, and for five years our Minister to Persia - a really cultivated man. We all have tea together in the afternoon, and make very merry - and we have Mrs. Bend of New York and her two daughters at our table. I asked Mr. Pratt how long Benjamin, former Minister to Persia, had lived in that country, and he said 3 years. I said that was rather a short time acquaintance with a country about which to write an exhaustive work. He tole me Benjamin had given great offence to the Shela, and others in his book - and that he had seen absolutely nothing of parts of Persia about which he writes.

-
+
- Nov. 27. + Nov. 27. -

PAGE 74 We will reach Genoa in a few hours, and I will gladly say au revoir to the sea for 3 or 4 days. It is very cold this morning, but clear. Until we reached Gibraltar our beautiful balmy weather lasted. We passed the Azoros on the 20th - running very close to the large island of San Miguel - very picturesque with its background of mountains, and the steep slopes, some of them quite cultivated to the top - its pleasant looking houses and villages - and the miles of low grass houses, where immense quantities of pineapples are cultivated. On Monday morning the 23d we reached Gibraltar, and went ashore, despite of some threatening clouds. We took Beatrice Bend in our carriage and went as far as Europa Point, but before we again reached the town, rain began to fall, and there was nothing to do but stop at the wretched Hotel Royal, and wait until it was time to go back to the steamer - and there we waited staring out on the same little square where I spent so many hours doing the same thing two years ago. Theodore went out and bought 3 umbrellas - a pair of overshoes for me, and 3 yards of macintosh cloth for us to sit upon on the wet, unprotected decks of the little tender. From that time until last night the gale has raged - and 3 miserable nights have I spent and 2 days in my forward cabin, tossed up and down. Yesterday morning early the 26, we dropped our anchor in the bay of Naples - and in spite of some rain and a high wind, I went ashore with the rest, and spent a pleasant day. The two Bend girls we took immediately to the Grand Hotel, and found pleasant rooms for them, and by the time Mrs. Bend arrived from the PAGE 75 Custom House, we had ordered luncheon, and made a short visit to the Aquarium. How good that lunch was, and how good the stable land was! Then we said goodbye to our friends, and started back to the steamer - stopping a few moments at Squadriblis to buy some shell things. We have had a quiet night, and are running smoothly this morning.

+

We will reach Genoa in a few hours, and I will gladly say au revoir to the sea for 3 or 4 days. It is very cold this morning, but clear. Until we reached Gibraltar our beautiful balmy weather lasted. We passed the Azoros on the 20th - running very close to the large island of San Miguel - very picturesque with its background of mountains, and the steep slopes, some of them quite cultivated to the top - its pleasant looking houses and villages - and the miles of low grass houses, where immense quantities of pineapples are cultivated. On Monday morning the 23d we reached Gibraltar, and went ashore, despite of some threatening clouds. We took Beatrice Bend in our carriage and went as far as Europa Point, but before we again reached the town, rain began to fall, and there was nothing to do but stop at the wretched Hotel Royal, and wait until it was time to go back to the steamer - and there we waited staring out on the same little square where I spent so many hours doing the same thing two years ago. Theodore went out and bought 3 umbrellas - a pair of overshoes for me, and 3 yards of macintosh cloth for us to sit upon on the wet, unprotected decks of the little tender. From that time until last night the gale has raged - and 3 miserable nights have I spent and 2 days in my forward cabin, tossed up and down. Yesterday morning early the 26, we dropped our anchor in the bay of Naples - and in spite of some rain and a high wind, I went ashore with the rest, and spent a pleasant day. The two Bend girls we took immediately to the Grand Hotel, and found pleasant rooms for them, and by the time Mrs. Bend arrived from the PAGE 75 Custom House, we had ordered luncheon, and made a short visit to the Aquarium. How good that lunch was, and how good the stable land was! Then we said goodbye to our friends, and started back to the steamer - stopping a few moments at Squadriblis to buy some shell things. We have had a quiet night, and are running smoothly this morning.

-
+
- S.S. Freiderick der Grosser. near Port Said. Dec. 6 + S.S. Freiderick der Grosser. near Port Said. Dec. 6

I am so thankful that this long voyage has almost come to an end - and that we will arrive at Port Said early tomorrow morning - we reached Genoa on the 27 Nov. just too late to catch the only train to Florence at noon - and after a slight delay at the Custom House, made a long journey through the streets of the town to the "Hotel du Pare" a rather attractive looking ancient Villa standing in large grounds with trees, which might be cheerful on a summers day, but on that chill afternoon, dripping with rain, was truly disconsolate. The palatial rooms and halls, with their tiny fires and enormous windows shaking and rattling in the gale, made us thankful we were only going to stop for the night. The next day we were off for Florence at 12 o'clock - which we reached at 7 P.M. - a weary ride - slow and rough, through never ending tunnels. The girls and Hassan were waiting for us, and went with us to the Grande Bretagne, where we were installed in our old appartment. Florence the next day was cold, but bright. I spent the Sunday morning with Mary shopping - I found her chattering Italian like a native. Theodore and Nettie went to the Uffizzi - PAGE 76 Clarence and Jones to do as much of the town as they could. Lizzie and both girls came to breakfast, and the girls stopped to lunch - after which a drive to Fiesole, and the rest of the time with Lizzie in their pretty little appartment, 2 Via Venezia, and then all came home with us to dinner. Berenson also came to dinner, looking very well. The next day we were off to Genoa again, with Mary along and went for the night to the "Hotel Isotta", much more comfortable than the other. At 2 o'clock the next day we went out to the Frederick the Great - and after enormous trouble and anxiety, through the insufficiency and want of order of the North German Lloyd Co. we succeeded at last in getting all our 30 pieces of luggage out of the Custom House and aboard the steamer - and sailed about 5 o'clock the next morning for Naples. We found the steamer very pleasant, but rather durious in her arrangement. Large as she is she only carries 120 first class passengers - but she carries enormous freight to Australia - her decks are charming - the service and the food very poor. Reached Naples the next morning - rain pouring - everyone else went ashore - I stayed at home - Dr. Peabody and family, Mr. Pratt and Dr. Doty arrived in the afternoon. So did the Kaiser Wilhelm, just from New York, a week later than ourselves. We were at last off on the home stretch for Egypt at 6 P.M. Since then the weather has been bad, and heavy seas until today - which is lovely. In my room during most of the voyage from Genoa.

-
+
- Shepheards Hotel. Cairo. Dec. 9 - 96 + Shepheards Hotel. Cairo. Dec. 9 - 96

PAGE 77 We arrived day before yesterday the 7th at 6 P.M. and took possession of our pleasant old appartment facing the street no. 120 et suite. On the evening of the 6th we passed the Damietta light, and the ship steamed slowly and almost imperceptibly along until she dropped anchor at Port Said about 2 o'clock A.M. There was but little sleep to be had - what with the coaling, the babbling and shrieking outside, and the stir inside - and as the night was warm, and all the doors and ports closed because of the coaling, sleep was far from every one. At 6 o'clock Amilie came to call me, and I was glad to give up the struggle and get up. We had little trouble at the Custom House, and were soon in a clean and very comfortable railway carriage for Ismailia, where we got an excellent lunch at the new hotel established lately by Shepheards, and waited for the Cairo train. We find Shepheards practically empty - and this season is to be a bad one for Egypt I fear. The next morning we had a grand disappointment in finding that our boat was a month behind time - painters and carpenters still at work - the boom not raised, and general helplessness. The English foreman of Thubron is quite ineffectual - and Thubron has shown gross negligence and carelessness. Instead of the boat ready, and in sailing order for the 1st of Dec. as the contract calls for - Thubron has evidently given his whole attention to building gunboats up the river. He has been at Dongola for 3 months - and has allowed the Beduin to care for herself. Theodore with admirable patience made PAGE 78 himself master of facts through the dire confusion of falsehoods and incompetency, and then he went for Thubron and his foreman, with such well directed effort and so much energetic talking, that the foreman is scared out of his life, and the workmen are jumping about like monkeys. I am busy all the time now with an hundred practical details.

-
+
- Sunday, Dec. 13. + Sunday, Dec. 13.

Mary and Clarence have gone off in the carriage with Salah to see the Tombs of the Mameluks and the Khalifs - Theodore, Dr. Doty and Dr. Peabody, have gone on donkeys to see the dahabeah. We go every day to the boat to watch and direct its progress - and we hope to be able to get off by the 1st of January. The great trouble now is that the furniture was not shipped from England until the 6th of Dec.! We have engaged our old cook Hanna - poor Selim having died here not more than a month ago - Hanna speaks no French or English, but as we have engaged a very promising young Nubian as waiter whom Salah knows very well, and who has lived for years in England, we can get on very well. Ibrahim too is engaged as 2d man and laundress - and my Mohammed Ibrahim is going in no capacity that I can think of, except to learn more English, and if he can, to wait and do domestic work. It is impossible now to tell how much English he knows, as he is so shy and frightened when he trys to speak. Theodore gave a dinner last night, and had Dr. Sandwith and Peabody and Doty. Theodore and I had a delicious drive yesterday in the afternoon to the Ghezireh Palace, and walked about the shady avenues PAGE 79 and among the flowers - stopping to return the visit of Dr. Sandwith and Mrs. Sandwith on our way home.

-
+
- Ghesireh Palace Hotel. Dec. 27. + Ghesireh Palace Hotel. Dec. 27.

We left Shepheards this morning and came over here, to escape the smells and noise of Cairo and are so enchanted with the delicious air and space - our rooms are really palatial - and look out on the beautiful garden - and the sitting room opens on a balcony, which the present hot weather makes quite delightful. The sun was so hot this afternoon that the awning was necessary. The house is practically empty - and it is so enormous, that only in the evening after dinner, when everyone congregated in the big hall, that there seems to be anyone here. We are so busy, trying to help along the boat - and there are so many vexatious delays, that our patience is fairly exhausted. I am amazed at Theodore's apparent patience with Thubron and his unprincipled inefficiency. I have never been so long in Cairo before - and I think I am tired of it - if not of Cairo, certainly of the life of hotels - and the dreary people. It is nice to see the interest and enjoyment of Clarence and Mary in everything. I am well - and quite free from cold for the first time in Cairo.

-
+
- Jan. 3. + Jan. 3.

Second Sunday after Christmas. Still waiting impatiently to get off - some progress has been made during the past week to be sure. The obscure and troublesome - PAGE 80 Jan. 9th - what I intended saying when I began that last sentence, quite a week ago, I have now not the faintest idea. Each day since has been so busy, with tiresome occupations, driving down to the dahabeah through that squalid Boulak-Ramleh quarter - until I am fairly sick with the sight of so much misery that no one can relieve. The long delayed furniture came yesterday - and with much trepidation I saw it unpacked, and if my worst fears were not realized, there were enough disappointments to make it almost unbearable. Chairs too large for the rooms - everything a little too big, or a little too small - the side board entirely forgotten - and I had to get into the carriage with Thubron, and drive to 3 different furniture places before I found a little second hand buffet that freshened and polished, will answer for this winter - then I bought finger bowls, caraffes - liqeur glasses - candlesticks - match boxes - soap dishes etc. etc. etc. Still with all these drawbacks the Beduin is so comfortable and so convenient and pretty, that we are thoroughly happy that on Monday morning we will take possession of her, and at last start up the river. We have had real Cairo winter weather for 10 days - high winds, clouds, occasional sharp rains. These things would not be unbearable - were it not for the discomfort of indoors in such weather. We would never think it possible at home to sit in a room where the thermometer stood at 62° only. But my thermometer has been just there for several days. There is in each of our big rooms, a tiny, ornamented accidental fireplace, between two of the big windows - these are strictly ornamental, and are almost hidden by the magnificent satin draperies of the windows. But two or PAGE 81 three days ago when the wind was high and cold, I asked the waiter if we could have a fire, and it was made, much to the cost of our comfort, for the only draught was out into the room - and if the fuel had been anything but charcoal, the consequences might have been disastrous - as it was, all the wooden mantle was scorched, and the windows had to be opened to clear the room. We learned afterwards that there were no openings at the top to these chimneys - so that the fireplaces were purely pieces of ornamental furniture.

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- Dahabeah "Beduin". Monday, Jan. 11. 1897. + Dahabeah "Beduin". Monday, Jan. 11. 1897.

We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to Bedrasheen, where we are now lying. Mary and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the Beduin, under convoy of the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o'clock. Just as we reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our "Beduin" stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her go by - and I heard her pronounced the "handsomest craft on the river". Immediately after lunch, when poor Theodore had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us, until we came down. In the midst of it, Mrs. and Miss Taylor arrived for a parting visit. Then there was the "debbil to pay" as dear old Salah would say, as Theodore PAGE 82 discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as Assiut; they had no food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt blessing from us all to the impossible Thubron, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are happy, if not yet in order.

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- Jan. 12. + Jan. 12.

We have made about 18 miles - and are somewhere between Bedreschein and Wasta. The tug proves a worthless thing. She can make about 2 miles with us, an hour, without any assistance from us - but if we have a wind that at all fills our sails, we sail right on to her and she has to cast off. Various "désagrémens" have developed themselves, the most important of which is old Henna, our cook, who was with us for 2 winters on the Herodotus has taken fright at the range in his kitchen, and thinks he can do nothing with it, although he makes much better bread with it, than I have ever known him do before. And, we greatly need the forgotten sideboard - and many rather necessary things have been overlooked. However, we are so pretty and convenient, that we are quite ashamed of ourselves in complaining of anything. My room is entirely charming - and so are all the bedrooms in their pretty chintzs and simple fittings - and the saloon would be a charming interior anywhere - with its Morris green brocades and art fabrics. Then the big upper deck is entirely perfection, with its pretty rugs, its big brown PAGE 83 wicker hooded chairs and easy chairs, with their bright yellow and black cushions and pillows in bandana stuffs. But best of all, the Beduin has proved a rattling good sailor, and there can be no happier man on earth than our Rais Fuli, who for the first time in his life is 1st Captain. He has been twice with us as 2d Captain and we have always said he should be captain of our dahabeah when it was built. He is such a fine specimen of a calm, serene Mohammedan, and has a gentle personal dignity I have never seen equalled. He is a Nubian, knows the river thoroughly, and we could trust him with everything we have. The boat will now be his house summer as well as winter - and he will get ￡3. a month and during the summer feed himself - I think I am as pleased as he is. He has chosen an admirable crew - I never saw so good a one on the Nile - and in their brown cardigans with "Beduin" in blue letters across the breast, they look very well.

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- Jan. 13. + Jan. 13.

Made 23 miles - are now lying near Wasta - day calm, with some head wind - heavy storm of wind during the night - very busy settling.

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- Jan. 14. + Jan. 14.

Beautiful warm weather - though my self-registering barometer on my little verandah went down to 40° during the night. Passed Benisoef about noon - ran until 8 o'clock this evening, - made 23 miles today.

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- Jan. 15. + Jan. 15.

PAGE 84 A long run today - starting at 6 A.M. and bringing up at 7 o'clock P.M. within 3 miles of Golasseheh - busy all day - made 57 miles.

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- Jan. 16. + Jan. 16.

Jan. 16. I wakened before it was light this morning and heard the rippling of the water that showed how fast we were slipping along - but, a little after 7 o'clock we ran into a dense fog - I never saw such a sight before on the Nile - and we pulled up awhile until the hot sun had dissipated it. We passed Minieh at 11 o'clock - and Beni Hassan this afternoon and are now lying at Rhodah having made 51 miles. Some high wind today from the right quarter - and we have had to cast the tug off, but the wind has been fitful. Have passed such lovely palm fringed shores. This morning the usual begging saint from Der el-Tayr, or Mountain of the Bird, swam out to us - and demanded the usual toll. The boat is now in perfect order - and I am now resting from my labors. Thermometer registered last night 45° and today at 2 o'clock 72°. I had my little stove lighted and brought into my room for the first time this morning.

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- Jan. 17. + Jan. 17.

Second Sunday after Epiphany. We have only made 20 miles today. There has been but little wind, and what there was, from the wrong quarter. Something was the matter with the tug, and we had to stop for 3 hours to have her tickered. PAGE 85 We are now within 4 miles of Gebel Abou Fedah - day has been overcast, and a little cool. Thermometer last night 42° - today 72°. A remarkable sunset - really the most wonderful and gorgeous in its beauty I ever saw.

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- Jan. 18. + Jan. 18.

A very disappointing day. Thubrons wretched little tug has given out entirely, and been abandoned by us. The Engineer reported early this morning a leak in the boiler - but as that has been the case for several days, it seemed to be no reason that we should not go on in the same slow way. So Theodore went aboard the tug - found that the engineer in order to "see in the boiler" as he said, had taken off the cylinder head, and then found a loose nut kicking about somewhere, and said if he moved their lives would be in danger. There was nothing to do but to leave her, which we did, declining to give the man 2 oars as he wished us to do, to paddle back to Cairo. Day warm and beautiful - sailed for nearly 2 hours in a very light wind and think we have made about 10 miles. On deck until nearly 7 o'clock, watching the radiant moon-rise and the colors on the Gebel Abu-Fedah chain.

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- Jan. 19. + Jan. 19.

We began tracking a little after seven o'clock this morning - a very little south wind made it hard work for our poor fellows - but in spite of it, we have made 9 or 10 miles. The English dahabeah Thames passed us in tow about dark. Our people inquired about our tug, and PAGE 86 they answered they had passed her near Hager Kandil, floating down to Cairo. A pleasant little walk this A.M. along the banks of the Bar Jusef canal - larks singing - wheat to my knees.

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- Jan. 20. + Jan. 20.

A trying day as far as getting on - warm, still and a haze that about noon assumed a rather threatening look. Our fellows have tracked and pulled to the anchor - and in this fashion we have been creeping past the Abu Fedah cliffs this afternoon. A strong north wind sprang up and helped us along, though the weather was so threatening we did not dare hoist a sail. About 6 o'clock the gale broke upon us - but no rain, and we are safely tied up for the night under the lee of a high bank. The air has cleared and the moon shows faintly from a veil of light clouds.

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- Jan. 21. + Jan. 21.

We began sailing at 8 o'clock this morning with a strong north wind - and the Beduin had her first good opportunity to test her true sailing qualities. She behaved splendidly to the great delight of her Captain and her crew, to say nothing of her owner. She sailed on the wind in so fine a fashion, that the crew were enthusiastic. I found the wind too strong on deck, and went below to the entrance deck, where I stood sometime watching the sailors, who were laughing and cheering apostrophising the wind - then the boat - then shaking hands in congratulation. We careered and made more motion than I have ever felt on the PAGE 87 Nile.- but then we had never sailed like that in such a wind before. In the midst of our triumphal progress in making a difficult bend of the river we came in collision with a working or ferry boat, anchored just at the point. Her boom scraped our sides a little to the great distress of Rais Fuli - but no real harm done. In swinging round to avoid as much as possible the shock of the contact, we went aground on the sand - and it was 3 hours before we got off, so that we did not reach Assiut until after 5 P.M. - too late to go into the town - Theodore, Clarence and Jones set off for the P.O. We found waiting for us, the 2 tables from Hatoun's for which we had written - and the box of table linen from Paris. The "Thames" lying opposite Assiut. We made about 30 miles today.

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- Jan. 22. + Jan. 22.

Mary and I took Abdul this morning, and rowed down to the town, and took a carriage there. We made a few little purchases - drove through the bazaars, to the imminent risk it seemed to me of the lives of everybody there - certainly to their great discomfort. These carriages are an innovation. I have never seen them before. In trying to find some flower pots, I came across a young Egyptian in European dress, who got into the carriage with us, and took us to his garden, where he gave us everything that was in bloom, which was not much, as the gardens are at this season practically dead as to flowers. Among other things he gave us 2 remarkable fruits I had never seen before, which he called "Kishta" or cream. It seems it is an imported delicacy PAGE 88 from the West Indies - the Anona squamosa. I got my pots - but we were not allowed to pay for anything - our young host being an amateur gardiner, and as polite and kind as he could be. After many thanks, we left him and came home, it being too late to go to the American College as I had intended, to inquire about the 2 American women doctors who have lately arrived and about whom I wish to know something. There was no wind to get away - in the afternoon the "Ramesis the Great" from up the river, and the "Ramesis" from Cairo arrived, and were near us. On the former were the Case family from Boston, people who were on the Gens, and whom Theodore knew. They came aboard to see the Beduin. An evening of wonderful beauty and color - with a late full moon rising over the placid water. There are splendid trees - palms and scents all about Assiut.

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- Jan. 23. + Jan. 23.

We are still in sight of Assiut - though we have made 5 miles by tracking and pulling to the anchor - the wind when there was any, being dead ahead. Mary and I have been spending the afternoon on my pleasant little verandah - reading and working.

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- Jan. 24. + Jan. 24.

Third Sunday after Epiphany. A day of almost perfect calm - by tracking and polling and using the occasional little puffs of wind, we have made 15 miles. Such beautiful opalescent effects all day - the whole world done in pearly, pink, gray heat. PAGE 89

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- Jan. 25. + Jan. 25.

Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o'clock the wind came up, and we got about an hour's sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking and poling, brought us within 10 miles of Tahtah - making 12 miles altogether. The Mena, flying the English flag - and the Elephantine flying the French flag, passed us today - and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°.

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- Jan. 26. + Jan. 26.

A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are tonight 5 miles from Sohag - passed Tahtah at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and exhilerating, that seems to renew one's life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their animals before them, or dragging them PAGE 90 after. It is no unusual thing to see donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing 3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a time.

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- Jan. 27. + Jan. 27.

Started this morning in a strong wind and came to Sohag just as breakfast was ready. Most of the male population of this good looking thriving town were ranged along the bank above us - we had to stop for mail and butter, which took about an hour - and in the mean time we bought some of the bright Akmim cloths which a merchant was displaying on the bank. They used to be made in Akmim, but I suspect they more often now, come from Birmingham, England. The river here makes a very bad turn, and north and south seem to change places. We came to grief here once before in the Herodotus - and again this morning, our delay of an hour resulted in staying all day near Sohag - for the strong wind at last found us on shore about 2 miles above the town - and opposite Akmim. The wind blew a hurricane all day - and all windows and doors had to be closed to keep out the driving fine sand. Towards evening we pulled to the anchor across the river near Akmim - and would rather have been above than below the town - as the cholera raged at this place during the summer. Made 9 miles.

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- Jan. 28. + Jan. 28.

We have made 35 miles today - beginning at 6:30 o'clock with a PAGE 91 fair wind that grew so strong we had to lie by at Balliana for more than 2 hours.

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- Jan. 29. + Jan. 29.

With the exception of Jan. 15, we have made today our best record - 49 miles - and are lying tonight near Keneh. Passed the Philetus - like a dream.

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- Jan. 30. + Jan. 30.

A good wind this morning then sailed and tracked until we tied up for the night, having made 32 miles.

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- Jan. 31. Luxor. Fourth Sunday after Epiphany. + Jan. 31. Luxor. Fourth Sunday after Epiphany.

We made the intervening 12 miles between our landing place of last night and Luxor at 4:30 - having had a variable light wind all day - sometimes no wind, when we tracked and poled. About 11 o'clock, we descried the streamer of a dahabieh in the distance - then her sails, and the sails of 3 more - to our great delight as we have been thirsting for a foe worthy of our steel. We crept slowly along towards them, making Luxor the same time as the Manhattan, and just behind the Zenet-el Nil, the Sesostris and the Ammon Ra - in front of which last we tied up, just below the Castle. The rest went into the town, and I stayed to enjoy the quiet of our dahabeah and our beautiful deck - and the wonders of the setting sun - and the shadows creeping over the mountains. Heaps of letters and newspapers. PAGE 92

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- Feb. 3. Luxor. + Feb. 3. Luxor.

We have had a tremendously high wind for 2 days - yesterday neither Mary nor I stirred from the boat. Although protected by the high bank, we were really buffetted about and the waves race high - everything was kept closed - doors, windows, screens and tambooshes - but in spite of all the dust penetrated everywhere - though to a much less degree than in any other boat I have been on. Across the river, the sand obscured the sight of the mountains at times - and I was sorry for the Cookites, who were swarming on the sands, starting for their various excursions - for 2 or 3 steamers are in - and of course their passengers cannot wait for more favorable weather. Mary and I this morning climbed up the high bank, with the intention of walking back into the country - but our skirts blew over our heads, our hats off our heads - and our eyes were blinded with sand - so that we soon gave up the contest and came home, glad to finish our walk on the sheltered deck. Salah came to see us soon after our arrival, very proud of us, and of our sailing record. He is almost willing to let us beat his Zenet-el Nil -M. Goleinschief's boat, of which he has charge. Old Mohammed Mohassib also came one evening - excessively pleased - and we presented our little gifts to him. Theodore reports Karnak in the hands of the Excavation Society - I have not yet seen it. Mr. Baldwin who is on the Ammon-Ra, with his wife, and son-in-law, Dr. Grinell - was here today. Mrs. Baldwin is very wretched since she came on the river. They want us to start for Assouan when they do. The Fell party on the Zenet-el-Fil go back to Cairo from here - much to Salah's PAGE 93 disgust. This morning we had a visit from Rev. Mr. Huhatt - the English clergyman at Luxor, and Mr. Coulson - they begged us to go to the Luxor Hotel to a "Cinderella Fancy Dress" Ball for the benefit of the little Hospital here. Theodore made no promises, but took several tickets. Ramadan begins today - very early this year.

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- Luxor. Feb. 5. + Luxor. Feb. 5.

Yesterday afternoon we rode over to Medinet Habout - very warm going - this splendid temple has been much excavated since I saw it last. Today we had our photographs taken by old Beato, who afterwards came into the boat to see it - and was loud in praises of it. Then we pulled across the river to the gizereh, and went again to Medinet, where we had lunch - and afterwards rode over the burning desert to Der el Bahari -leaving Mary at Medinet to finish her sketches It was very hot - and I am well tired tonight.

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- Feb. 6. + Feb. 6.

We did not much want to leave Luxor this morning - but as Mrs. Baldwin has religious scruples about starting on Sunday - it was today or next week - and as Theodore is anxious to test the sailing qualities of the Beduin with the Ammon-Re, Cooks best and largest boat, we left about noon, twenty minutes or more after they were under way - the wind was very light, but in an hour we had easily overtaken and passed her, to the intense disgust of her men, and the delight of our own. Indeed Rais Fuli, with his calm, serene manner repressed the too PAGE 94 exultant manner of our men - though it must have been the triumph of his own life. About 6 o'clock after much tracking we pulled up near Erment where we now are. I was rather sorry to leave Luxor so soon. We had one very busy day while there - to Karnak in the morning - the races in the afternoon - Mr. and Mrs. Huhatt, Mr. and Mrs. Brown - Miss Scott - and Miss Norton, to tea at 5 o'clock, and Laura Billings and her sister and Mr. Fahenstock of New York to dine in the evening. We had a lovely dinner - and I had some splendid red roses from the Luxor Hotel. This morning before leaving, I went to the Roman Catholic Italian Convent, to see if it were possible to arrange for Zenobia, my little arab child here in whom we have been much interested, to enter the school. I had an interview with the Mother Superior, or rather Mary had, for she could speak only Italian. We found the cleanest, quietest place I have ever seen in Luxor - pleasant airy courts, good gardens - and everything so spotlessly clean - the the Superior herself, clean, fat and sweet as she could be - and strongly reminding us of "The Abbess" of Moroni - a photograph of which I brought with me from home. Zenobia, her father, and her sister, now married - the sweet child of 2 years ago, were at the boat this morning. The sister well clothed, in the usual Arab fashion - veiled as becomes a married woman - and Zenobia as pretty and taking, and round and brown, as she used to be. I fear it will be impossible to get her into the Italian school - but I may succeed with the American Mission school when I go down. I would like to lift the child somewhat out of her dirt and poverty. For the first time at Luxor, I rode in one of the carriages, PAGE 95 2 or 3 of which are supplied by the Hotel - and I felt almost ashamed of myself - one doesn't like to see such unnecessary innovations.

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- Feb. 7. + Feb. 7.

Fifth Sunday after Epiphany. We stopped a short time at the Erment garden to get oranges and lemons this morning, and the Ammon-Ra passed ahead - light wind and calms most of the day. We overtook the Ammon-Ra and sailed her out of sight. Tied up at Esneh at 7:30 - but the wind coming out strong at 9 o'clock, we pulled up our stakes, and were off and did not stop until one o'clock, when we pulled up at Al-Kab having made in all 41 miles. The nights have now a wonderful beauty. A little new moon appeared 3 nights ago - and Venus is resplendent - and so is Sirius. Yesterday and today warm.

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- Feb. 8th. + Feb. 8th.

Did not sail early this morning - and as we began tracking about 11, the Ammon-Ra appeared in sight. At 2 o'clock we pulled up at Al-Kab, to see Mr. Somers-Clarke - who is living there on his dahabeah at work at excavations. He came on the Beduin for a short visit, and it was quite an hour before we got away, the A.R. being by that time more than a mile in advance - before an hour had gone by, we had caught and passed her. Passed Edfou about 5 o'clock - what beautiful wide country - what splendid great domes of sycamore trees! We have come about 5 miles above Edfou - and have made 24 miles today. The Beduin seems to sail almost without wind - so smoothly she glided along PAGE 96 mile after mile this evening, through the glittering moon lit water, without a ripple, other than she made.

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- Feb. 9. + Feb. 9.

I do not know how we have made 23 miles today - it has been so calm with so little wind - but at 7 o'clock we passed Silsilis, and are now lying 2 miles above - such a perfect night and so warm. We crept silently along by the dangerous Silsileh rocks, as it was growing dark, and I never saw a more beautiful scene - the water without a ripple - everything bathed in moonlight - and Venus almost as bright as the moon. Ammon-Ra came up later and tied up behind us - and before we had finished dinner Dr. and Mrs. Grinell came over. Busy all day, writing and working, having succeeded in rousing myself out of my long indolence.

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- Feb. 10. + Feb. 10.

A hot calm day - a little tracking this A.M. then laid up, with the Ammon-Ra just behind us. Thermometer at 86° in the afternoon. At 7 came a good wind and we were off, and sailed until 9 o'clock - 2 miles above Kom Ombo which was beautiful as we passed it in the moonlight - made 15 miles.

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- Feb. 11. + Feb. 11.

Thuesday. Assouan. Arrived at 10:30 this morning - having started at 6 o'clock, with the Ammon-Ra and Manhattan within sight behind us - and made 23 miles in 4 hours -having lost sight of both boats. Passed the Gazelle PAGE 97 just below Assouan on her way down. Found the "Sesestris", "Istan", "Philetus" and "Thames" here at Elephantine - and now that the "Ammon-Ra" and "Manhattan" have arrived, we make 7 dahabeahs here. The Philetus started this afternoon for the ascent of the Cataract. Sailed in the felucca towards the Cataract, rowing home. This scenery and these rocks never lose in vividness of expression - and the same beautiful afterglow, that I always associate with Assouan.

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- Feb. 12. + Feb. 12.

Went over to Philae by train - Mary and I - with all our entourage of servants and sailors and hampers - Theodore and Clarence following later on their donkeys, in time for lunch. I found Yemma waiting for me, having heard through one of our sailors that we would arrive. He is little grown - and is really a very efficient little guide - Dendowi too, the unapproachable - who appropriated Mary for the day. Newmans not here this year. Mary at once selected an eligible spot for painting and set to work - and after wandering about and photographing all the children and Mohammet the sailor, I established myself in the long colonnade near Mary, out of the sun, and wind - and read - while Jones and Ibrahim got the lunch ready - I made Yemma and the children sing for me - and when I grew tired of their shouting, I begged them to sing me something soft and low - and they sang squatted on the ground about me, the song I always call the cataract song - as one hears it about here all the time - they sang it softly - in a constantly recurring refrain, putting their heads on their hand to express PAGE 98 sleep - I asked Yemma what the song was, and they all replied that it was the "Dongola" song - and when I asked what it meant, Yemma replied that it was a slumber song (though of course these are not his words) that the mother was singing the baby to sleep - and was telling him not to be afraid, although there was war and fighting in Dongola, here it was safe and quiet - to sleep and not fear. I thought it very pretty, but I believe one song is used for various words. After lunch we walked about, and climbed to the roof of the temple - where of course the views were delicious - and the birds eye view of the island gave a very good idea of the extent of Capt. Lyons work and explorations of last year. Dr. and Mrs. Grinnell also lunched out there but they were in Pharaoh's Bed. We came home by one of the Cataract boats -bringing Yemma and Dendowi with us to show them the boat - then sent them back. They were such amusing little guests.

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- Feb. 17. + Feb. 17.

Before 5 o'clock this morning, I heard the preparations for departure. Our splendid big boom was taken down the day we spent at Philae - and for 2 or 3 days the boat has been getting ready for her downward journey. We have had a lovely week at Assouan - the pleasantest I have ever known - at our same old landing, with the same views before us, we felt quite at home. Assouan has greatly improved since we were here, the river front has been faced with stone, and steps made here and there to the water. The main street following the river bank is now clean, and quite well built, with some good government houses, PAGE 99 which with the hotel, give a very bright, clean look. It is very quiet almost no soldiers at the garrison - all having gone to the front. I like the air here better than any place along the river - it is so pure and so entirely from the desert, there being so little vegetation here. A day or two after we arrived, Prof. Sayce and Lord Fitz-Hardinge came to call. The Fitz-Hardinges have the little Thames which they built years ago - and Prof. Sayce on his Istar, was just behind us. A nice, entertaining young fellow with the Fitz-Hardinges, Dr. Bridgman, who found him an enthusiastic gardener, and the only person I ever met who could tell me anything about horticulture in Egypt. We had Prof. Sayce one evening to dinner - and found him very interesting -telling us a great many things we wanted to know. We left Lord Fitz-Hardinge very ill - with threatened pneumonia. He has during the past year succeeded to the title, we having formerly known of him as Hon. Mr. Berkeley. With this title which is one of the oldest in England, dating from the time of King Stephen, he has become owner of Berkeley Castle one of the most interesting historical Castles of England, and also to an income of ￡70,00 a year. He has no children, he and his wife are past 60 - have very quiet tastes - devoted to church work - schools and charities, and terribly depressed by this change of fortune, which breaks up old habits, and entails so much state and responsibility for which they have no liking. The next heir, is Lord Berkeley of Oxford - a man no longer young - no children, and who cares only for chemistry and geology - and devoutly dreads the day when he shall succeed. - Next to him is an unmarried woman not young, the oldest of 9 children of a clergyman, who has just 600 ￡s PAGE 100 to spend a year! Prof. Sayce on the Istar, started down at the same time we did this morning - but he told us yesterday, that he would float faster than we could, as his boat is heavy, with a keel - one of the heavy, old fashioned wooden boats, which would not have the ghost of a chance with us in sailing. We have floated against the wind, but with so little progress that at 7 this morning we stopped judging we have made about 15 miles. We are lying in the cove of the bend of the river, at anchor, some distance from shore, with the "Istar" near below, her lights showing hospitably against this desert shore. The night most resplendent, the moon full and the great yellow sand drifts over the mountain sides, glowing with almost as much color as they do by day. I would not have my blinds closed, and slept with all the curtains back from the windows that I might get all the outside beauty possible - and waking several times during the night, I sat up in my bed and looked out at it all. What beautiful, resplendent loneliness!

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+
- Feb. 18. + Feb. 18.

We made about 3 miles, starting at half past 6 this morning, but this wretched north wind increasing we gave it up, and lay again in the stream as the shore was so sandy - the Istar almost a mile below us. Prof. Sayce sent over a note, asking us to come to tea - which we did going down in the felucca - very hard rowing against the wind, even with the current, and there really were waves. We had a charming visit Prof. S. Showing us some of his interesting works on Egypt - Belzoni's splendid great volume, with hand painted pictures of the temples and PAGE 101 tombs - his rendering of the hieroglyphs, being remarkably accurate, though at that time there was no key to them - and of course he was ignorant of their meaning - and it was like copying any other detail of decoration. The great Napeonic work, of the French Scientific Expedition which I had never seen before - the travels of Ligh, the Englishman a copy of which Howard Amory gave me from his grandfather's library, and others - one an account of travel written by and Italian "del Valle" in 16____. The Istar is a big, old fashioned boat, and looked most comfortable - 20 ft. wide. We and Cooks new boats are 17 ft. This width gives her a beautiful saloon, and a wide corridor to the stern cabin, which is also very large, and fitted as a library - with bookcases to the ceiling - a charming, scholarly room - and here Prof. S. says he really does his work for the whole year. Another wonderful night but the wind as strong as ever - and we are rocking uncomfortably - indeed I never rocked so much on the river as we have been doing all day.

-
+
- Friday. Feb. 19. + Friday. Feb. 19.

We began the morning very early with a light wind, but it soon changed into a big blow - and we were soon driven upon the lee bank, where we pounded up and down in the sand, until Theodore suggested an anchor put out at the stern when we were more comfortable. I have just finished reading Stevenson's "South-Sea Sketches", and a second reading of his Vailima Letters - and are now going to read Ebb Tide. A great blow going on. PAGE 102

-
+
- Feb. 20. + Feb. 20.

Feb. 20. I had quite an attack of neuralgia or rheumatism in my back and chest last night, which kept me from sleeping - and finding when my morning cup of tea was brought me at 7 o'clock - that the gale was still blowing and the boat rocking, I decided after having my bath to go back to bed, and have my breakfast. Wind continued all day, and weather hopeless. I began reading Prof. Sayce's "Egypt of the Hebrews". Last night we got away from our lee shore, and took refuge on the opposite side of the river, where we are now lying, more quietly. Read aloud a long time in Milner's "England in Egypt".

-
+
- Feb. 21. Sexagesima Sunday. + Feb. 21. Sexagesima Sunday.

The men rowed, or we floated all the latter part of the night until 7 this morning, when I saw Kom Ombo directly in front of us. A fine all around view of it, perched so high on its cliff - we pulled up soon, and after breakfast went up to the Temple - it is charming in its height, though not specially interesting; and is certainly very much swept and garnished. The wind falling, we decided not to linger, but pushed off, just as Gage's Steamer "Memphis" was coming up to her landing. Passed the Istar lying by a little below Kom Ombo. This is our 5th day from Assouan, and we have only covered 29 miles.

-
+
- Feb. 22. Monday. + Feb. 22. Monday.

We were off before 6 o'clock this morning - rowing - and in the face of the north wind which still holds with more or less fitfullness - PAGE 103 we passed Silsilis about 3 o'clock - but did not stop, as we are so belated. About an hour afterwards we had gained very much upon the Istar - and our men were pulling lustily - when the order from the Rais was suddenly given to stop, and in a moment after, we went rather hard upon a sand bank - which delayed us about an hour - when we went on until 7 o'clock - apparently by the light of Venus, almost as good as a moon. We tied up at a pleasant bank under some scent trees, having come between 3 and 4 miles below Silsilis - making today 15 miles. It is so easy to tell who is keeping Ramadan. Quite a proportion of crew are and they are so solemn and melancholy. Our nice Mathar, the 2d captain, hasn't even a smile - Rais Fuli, and he, and 5 or 6 of the crew, are carefully keeping it.

-
+
- Tuesday Feb. 23. + Tuesday Feb. 23.

We have allowed ourselves just a month from today to reach Cairo - there will be so much to do there about changes in the boat, and getting her ready to leave her, that the 10 days between March 23 and April 3d when we leave for Hrindisi will not be more than we need. But this north wind must cease blowing! This morning we started out before 6 - and when Ainely came to my room, she reported the Istar some distance in advance of us, and another dahabeah. We are wondering if it can be the Gazelle, which left Assouan, the day we arrived. Yesterday the Nephtis passed up, with the Duke of Hamilton on board. His own flag I suppose at the mast, yellow, with a grimping lion - very effective. He has only lately succeeded to the title we were told - and jumped from PAGE 104 a lieutenant in the navy to his present titles and possessions. A pleasant thing. Reached El Kab - 36 miles.

-
+
- Wednesday. Feb. 24. + Wednesday. Feb. 24.

Morning calm - did not start until 10 o'clock - as we had hoped to se Mr. Somers-Clarke. I wanted very much to see his boat. But we found he and Prof. Sayce had gone early to the tombs, so after a little inspection of the old town, we came away - and have with difficulty, against a head wind made 15 miles.

-
+
- Thursday Feb. 25. + Thursday Feb. 25.

We floated down 2 miles to Esneh early this morning - and all the rest went off in the felucca to see the temple - which I don't care for - Jones and Henna went marketing - and they all joined us again at the end of the town. Our men have rowed tremendously this afternoon, hoping to bring us to Luxor tonight - but at 11 o'clock the wind grew so strong that we tied up within sight of the Luxor lights - having made 36 miles.

-
+
- Friday Feb. 26. + Friday Feb. 26.

We came to our old place near the Castle early this morning. High wind has been blowing all day, and I did not ride out to Karnac with them this afternoon - though we walked into town, and I went to the American Mission to ask about the little arab girl "Nubia" and the chances of sending her to school. I saw Mrs. Nichols in her pleasant PAGE 105 clean rooms - and she could not give me any encouragement. Asked her and Mr. Nichols to come to tea this afternoon - and had a very pleasant visit. They are soon going to America for a vacation year, having spent 7 years here. Only 4 dahabeahs here - the Hyksos, Anna, Gamilla, and one other. Mr. Huhatt came to play chess.

-
+
- Saturday, Feb. 27. + Saturday, Feb. 27.

Today the Cheops, Columbia and Ammon-Ra came down. All went over early to the Tombs of the Kings for the day - I could not face the idea of such a long excursion in this heat - so stayed on the boat all day - and had a rest and did all manner of delightful little independent things. Intensely hot - I had "Nubia" part of the morning with me, but she was such a restless little colt, I had to send her away at 12 o'clock - quite happy with numerous possessions - the chief of which was a pair of red shoes - which Mohammed Schaiyeh, my singer, bought for her in the town. The family came back at 6:30 -powdered with dust, and tired, and clamouring for lemonade and tea - having had a delightful day. The Osiris came in this afternoon and is lying close behind us. Quinquagesima

-
+
- Sunday. Feb. 28. + Sunday. Feb. 28.

We had thought of getting off today, but there was no wind, and Mr. Baldwin wants us to wait for him tomorrow. I did not leave the boat, in the afternoon the wind very high. Mrs. Constantine Read and her cousin made us a visit, and Mr. Shephard and his sister of the PAGE 106 Hyksos also came. He, the Engineer of the new railroad. Mohammed Mohassib also came.

From 79f086c607fb47475fcf2ad0ad46bdbb327a9030 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: ionahillman <93552722+ionahillman@users.noreply.github.com> Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2021 14:20:40 -0700 Subject: [PATCH 07/15] Update volume4.xml entries on pg. 104-109 --- diary-volumes/volume4.xml | 68 +++++++++++++++++++-------------------- 1 file changed, 34 insertions(+), 34 deletions(-) diff --git a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml index 5d7269376..5119c1435 100644 --- a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml +++ b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml @@ -296,91 +296,91 @@ Tuesday Feb. 23. -

We have allowed ourselves just a month from today to reach Cairo - there will be so much to do there about changes in the boat, and getting her ready to leave her, that the 10 days between March 23 and April 3d when we leave for Hrindisi will not be more than we need. But this north wind must cease blowing! This morning we started out before 6 - and when Ainely came to my room, she reported the Istar some distance in advance of us, and another dahabeah. We are wondering if it can be the Gazelle, which left Assouan, the day we arrived. Yesterday the Nephtis passed up, with the Duke of Hamilton on board. His own flag I suppose at the mast, yellow, with a grimping lion - very effective. He has only lately succeeded to the title we were told - and jumped from PAGE 104 a lieutenant in the navy to his present titles and possessions. A pleasant thing. Reached El Kab - 36 miles.

+

We have allowed ourselves just a month from today to reach Cairo - there will be so much to do there about changes in the boat, and getting her ready to leave her, that the 10 days between March 23 and April 3d when we leave for Hrindisi will not be more than we need. But this north wind must cease blowing! This morning we started out before 6 - and when Ainely came to my room, she reported the Istar some distance in advance of us, and another dahabeah. We are wondering if it can be the Gazelle, which left Assouan, the day we arrived. Yesterday the Nephtis passed up, with the Duke of Hamilton on board. His own flag I suppose at the mast, yellow, with a grimping lion - very effective. He has only lately succeeded to the title we were told - and jumped from a lieutenant in the navy to his present titles and possessions. A pleasant thing. Reached El Kab - 36 miles.

Wednesday. Feb. 24. -

Morning calm - did not start until 10 o'clock - as we had hoped to se Mr. Somers-Clarke. I wanted very much to see his boat. But we found he and Prof. Sayce had gone early to the tombs, so after a little inspection of the old town, we came away - and have with difficulty, against a head wind made 15 miles.

+

Morning calm - did not start until 10 o'clock - as we had hoped to see Mr. Somers-Clarke. I wanted very much to see his boat. But we found he and Prof. Sayce had gone early to the tombs, so after a little inspection of the old town, we came away - and have with difficulty, against a head wind made 15 miles.

Thursday Feb. 25. -

We floated down 2 miles to Esneh early this morning - and all the rest went off in the felucca to see the temple - which I don't care for - Jones and Henna went marketing - and they all joined us again at the end of the town. Our men have rowed tremendously this afternoon, hoping to bring us to Luxor tonight - but at 11 o'clock the wind grew so strong that we tied up within sight of the Luxor lights - having made 36 miles.

+

We floated down 2 miles to Esneh early this morning - and all the rest went off in the felucca to see the temple - which I don't care for - Jones and Henna went marketing - and they all joined us again at the end of the town. Our men have rowed tremendously this afternoon, hoping to bring us to Luxor tonight - but at 11 o'clock the wind grew so strong that we tied up within sight of the Luxor lights - having made 36 miles.

Friday Feb. 26. -

We came to our old place near the Castle early this morning. High wind has been blowing all day, and I did not ride out to Karnac with them this afternoon - though we walked into town, and I went to the American Mission to ask about the little arab girl "Nubia" and the chances of sending her to school. I saw Mrs. Nichols in her pleasant PAGE 105 clean rooms - and she could not give me any encouragement. Asked her and Mr. Nichols to come to tea this afternoon - and had a very pleasant visit. They are soon going to America for a vacation year, having spent 7 years here. Only 4 dahabeahs here - the Hyksos, Anna, Gamilla, and one other. Mr. Huhatt came to play chess.

+

We came to our old place near the Castle early this morning. High wind has been blowing all day, and I did not ride out to Karnac with them this afternoon - though we walked into town, and I went to the American Mission to ask about the little arab girl "Nubia" and the chances of sending her to school. I saw Mrs. Nichols in her pleasant clean rooms - and she could not give me any encouragement. Asked her and Mr. Nichols to come to tea this afternoon - and had a very pleasant visit. They are soon going to America for a vacation year, having spent 7 years here. Only 4 dahabeahs here - the Hyksos, Anna, Gamilla, and one other. Mr. Huhatt came to play chess.

Saturday, Feb. 27. -

Today the Cheops, Columbia and Ammon-Ra came down. All went over early to the Tombs of the Kings for the day - I could not face the idea of such a long excursion in this heat - so stayed on the boat all day - and had a rest and did all manner of delightful little independent things. Intensely hot - I had "Nubia" part of the morning with me, but she was such a restless little colt, I had to send her away at 12 o'clock - quite happy with numerous possessions - the chief of which was a pair of red shoes - which Mohammed Schaiyeh, my singer, bought for her in the town. The family came back at 6:30 -powdered with dust, and tired, and clamouring for lemonade and tea - having had a delightful day. The Osiris came in this afternoon and is lying close behind us. Quinquagesima

+

Today the Cheops, Columbia and Ammon-Ra came down. All went over early to the Tombs of the Kings for the day - I could not face the idea of such a long excursion in this heat - so stayed on the boat all day - and had a rest and did all manner of delightful little independent things. Intensely hot - I had "Nubia" part of the morning with me, but she was such a restless little colt, I had to send her away at 12 o'clock - quite happy with numerous possessions - the chief of which was a pair of red shoes - which Mohammed Schaiyeh, my singer, bought for her in the town. The family came back at 6:30 -powdered with dust, and tired, and clamouring for lemonade and tea - having had a delightful day. The Osiris came in this afternoon and is lying close behind us.

- Sunday. Feb. 28. + Quinguagesima Sunday. Feb. 28. -

We had thought of getting off today, but there was no wind, and Mr. Baldwin wants us to wait for him tomorrow. I did not leave the boat, in the afternoon the wind very high. Mrs. Constantine Read and her cousin made us a visit, and Mr. Shephard and his sister of the PAGE 106 Hyksos also came. He, the Engineer of the new railroad. Mohammed Mohassib also came.

+

We had thought of getting off today, but there was no wind, and Mr. Baldwin wants us to wait for him tomorrow. I did not leave the boat, in the afternoon the wind very high. Mrs. Constantine Read and her cousin made us a visit, and Mr. Shephard and his sister of the Hyksos also came. He, the Engineer of the new railroad. Mohammed Mohassib also came.

-
+
- March 1st. Monday. + March 1st. Monday. -

We did not get away until 7 o'clock this morning - and had not lost sight of the town when a very hard north wind sprang up, and after trying to float, gave it up and anchored, until about 4 o'clock, when it came out a little to the south, and we gladly spread our sails, and had soon come to a big turn in the river which brought the wind on our side, so that we could not keep off the bank. Found here tied up, under the same circumstances, the Osiris which left Luxor the day before us, and the Ammon-Ra who got away an hour before us this morning - and here we all are for the night. Two Mecca pilgrims going to Mecca stopped on the bank above us after the sun had gone down, to break the long fast of the day and eat their evening meal. They were dressed entirely in white, and had a donkey, carrying their luggage.

+

We did not get away until 7 o'clock this morning - and had not lost sight of the town when a very hard north wind sprang up, and after trying to float, gave it up and anchored, until about 4 o'clock, when it came out a little to the south, and we gladly spread our sails, and had soon come to a big turn in the river which brought the wind on our side, so that we could not keep off the bank. Found here tied up, under the same circumstances, the Osiris which left Luxor the day before us, and the Ammon-Ra who got away an hour before us this morning - and here we all are for the night. Two Mecca pilgrims going to Mecca stopped on the bank above us after the sun had gone down, to break the long fast of the day and eat their evening meal. They were dressed entirely in white, and had a donkey, carrying their luggage.

-
+
- March 2d. Tuesday. + March 2d. Tuesday. -

A very early start this morning and rowing and floating in company with the Ammon-Ra and the Osiris, we reached Keneh about 3 o'clock, and the rest started in the felucca, before we reached the opposite landing for Denderah, and we floated down below and waited for them. Very hot for 2 hours - found the Columbia at Denderah. They reported on coming home, very unruly donkey boys, and very exciting rows with them. All the morning we were just in advance of the Osiris, PAGE 107 and she floated most unpleasantly near us - two or three times we were actually in collision side by side, and great commotion among the crews. Lord St. Oswald is on her. They all came back in an hour and a half, and we floated and rowed 3 or 4 miles farther down - and tied up with strong wind blowing from the north, at 6:30. I enjoyed a walk on deck while they were away - looking at the splendid desert mountains across the river beyond Keneh. What a hot, desolate spot Keneh must have been last summer, when the cholera raged so violently! I have never been in the town but once - and it lies so back from the river that it cannot be well seen. I suppose just now the Mecca pilgrims are crowding them on their way to Mecca - I should like to have ridden into the town today, and out a way upon the Koser road. The descriptions of this desert route have always fascinated me. We think we have made 31 miles today.

+

A very early start this morning and rowing and floating in company with the Ammon-Ra and the Osiris, we reached Keneh about 3 o'clock, and the rest started in the felucca, before we reached the opposite landing for Denderah, and we floated down below and waited for them. Very hot for 2 hours - found the Columbia at Denderah. They reported on coming home, very unruly donkey boys, and very exciting rows with them. All the morning we were just in advance of the Osiris, and she floated most unpleasantly near us - two or three times we were actually in collision side by side, and great commotion among the crews. Lord St. Oswald is on her. They all came back in an hour and a half, and we floated and rowed 3 or 4 miles farther down - and tied up with strong wind blowing from the north, at 6:30. I enjoyed a walk on deck while they were away - looking at the splendid desert mountains across the river beyond Keneh. What a hot, desolate spot Keneh must have been last summer, when the cholera raged so violently! I have never been in the town but once - and it lies so back from the river that it cannot be well seen. I suppose just now the Mecca pilgrims are crowding them on their way to Mecca - I should like to have ridden into the town today, and out a way upon the Koser road. The descriptions of this desert route have always fascinated me. We think we have made 31 miles today.

-
+
- Wednesday. March 3. + Wednesday. March 3. -

This is Ash Wednesday - and the last of the 30 days of Ramadan - for which we are truly thankful - for Rais Fuli - 2 Rais Mattar - Moomond the big Mohammed, and Baken the little sailor, all keep it rigourously. They represent the very pick of the crew - and things will now be more cheerful. This had been a distracting day. Such a mix as we, the Osiris, the Ammon-Ra, the Columbia and several large working boats have been in most of the day. I have never known such an experience - the wind has been from the north most of the time. Our crew have worked splendidly at their oars, and beaten all the others PAGE 108 out and out. It was a splendid triumph. The gale increased and at 5 o'clock we tied up, followed by all the others - and we are strung along the bank, within 2 or 3 miles of Kasr-el Sayd. After we landed we went to visit the Baldwins. We have made 25 miles - and are rolling a little uneasily in the wind.

+

This is Ash Wednesday - and the last of the 30 days of Ramadan - for which we are truly thankful - for Rais Fuli - 2 Rais Mattar - Moomond the big Mohammed, and Baken the little sailor, all keep it rigourously. They represent the very pick of the crew - and things will now be more cheerful. This had been a distracting day. Such a mix as we, the Osiris, the Ammon-Ra, the Columbia and several large working boats have been in most of the day. I have never known such an experience - the wind has been from the north most of the time. Our crew have worked splendidly at their oars, and beaten all the others out and out. It was a splendid triumph. The gale increased and at 5 o'clock we tied up, followed by all the others - and we are strung along the bank, within 2 or 3 miles of Kasr-el Sayd. After we landed we went to visit the Baldwins. We have made 25 miles - and are rolling a little uneasily in the wind.

-
+
- Thursday. March 4. + Thursday. March 4. -

Made about 5 miles early this morning - heavy gale from the north has made it impossible to stir since 8 o'clock. We are 3 miles below Kasr el-Sayd.

+

Made about 5 miles early this morning - heavy gale from the north has made it impossible to stir since 8 o'clock. We are 3 miles below Kasr el-Sayd.

-
+
- Friday. March 5. + Friday. March 5. -

Started at 5 o'clock this morning - and before I got up, while enjoying my book and cup of tea, we passed the bridge at Nagh-el-Hamadi. Ammon-Ra and Osiris ahead of us.

+

Started at 5 o'clock this morning - and before I got up, while enjoying my book and cup of tea, we passed the bridge at Nagh-el-Hamadi. Ammon-Ra and Osiris ahead of us.

-
+
- Saturday. March 6. + Saturday. March 6. -

Our men began rowing at 1 o'clock this morning - reached Balliana at 10:30 and started immediately for Abydos. That pleasant ride of 7 miles out and 7 back, never seemed so tiresome - for the very worst donkeys of all the notorious bad donkeys of Abydos or rather Balliana fell to our lot. The day was tremendously hot - the natives specially tormenting. I arrived at the temple more dead than alive - and by 3:30 we were in our saddles again - and I came home resolving PAGE 109 never to do that expedition again. The Ammon-Ra and Osiris did not stop - but the Chensu (English) and the Columbia (American Jews) did, and went to the Temple. We are having the most beautiful little new moon imaginable. For the first two nights it had the resplendent beams almost within its bow. The last winter we were here on the river we used constantly to see the Zodiacal lights - but I have not seen it this time. I saw in the Abydos fields today, the most beautiful light vivid green birds - large as our robin, but more slender and elegant.

+

Our men began rowing at 1 o'clock this morning - reached Balliana at 10:30 and started immediately for Abydos. That pleasant ride of 7 miles out and 7 back, never seemed so tiresome - for the very worst donkeys of all the notorious bad donkeys of Abydos or rather Balliana fell to our lot. The day was tremendously hot - the natives specially tormenting. I arrived at the temple more dead than alive - and by 3:30 we were in our saddles again - and I came home resolving never to do that expedition again. The Ammon-Ra and Osiris did not stop - but the ChensuChonsu (English) and the Columbia (American Jews) did, and went to the Temple. We are having the most beautiful little new moon imaginable. For the first two nights it had the resplendent beams almost within its bow. The last winter we were here on the river we used constantly to see the Zodiacal lights - but I have not seen it this time. I saw in the Abydos fields today, the most beautiful light vivid green birds - large as our robin, but more slender and elegant.

-
+
- 1st Sunday in Lent. March 7. + 1st Sunday in Lent. March 7. -

Made from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. 27-1/2 miles - are now at Akmim.

+

Made from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. 27-1/2 miles - are now at Akmim.

-
+
- Monday. March 8. + Monday. March 8. -

Started early, and made Sohag by 9 o'clock - where we stopped to get coal and provisions and our mail. By 11 o'clock P.M. had come 6 miles below Sohag - making the whole day 11 miles. North wind.

+

Started early, and made Sohag by 9 o'clock - where we stopped to get coal and provisions and our mail. By 11 o'clock P.M. had come 6 miles below Sohag - making the whole day 11 miles. North wind.

-
+
- Tuesday. March 9. + Tuesday. March 9. -

Made 2 miles today early - tied up since in a gale - wind a little west of north - so that we are hoping it may move around to the south. We would like so much to have one record day of gentle south wind! Chonsu passed us, being so heavy, she floats fast. Columbia still behind. Had a row in the felucca. PAGE 110

+

Made 2 miles today early - tied up since in a gale - wind a little west of north - so that we are hoping it may move around to the south. We would like so much to have one record day of gentle south wind! Chonsu passed us, being so heavy, she floats fast. Columbia still behind. Had a row in the felucca. PAGE 110

From 55c030ec267e7f695fcc8d85a656c6dbd6080105 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: ionahillman <93552722+ionahillman@users.noreply.github.com> Date: Wed, 24 Nov 2021 13:25:03 -0800 Subject: [PATCH 08/15] Update volume4.xml --- diary-volumes/volume4.xml | 264 +++++++++++++++++++------------------- 1 file changed, 132 insertions(+), 132 deletions(-) diff --git a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml index 5119c1435..68890193b 100644 --- a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml +++ b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml @@ -302,7 +302,7 @@ Wednesday. Feb. 24. -

Morning calm - did not start until 10 o'clock - as we had hoped to see Mr. Somers-Clarke. I wanted very much to see his boat. But we found he and Prof. Sayce had gone early to the tombs, so after a little inspection of the old town, we came away - and have with difficulty, against a head wind made 15 miles.

+

Morning calm - did not start until 10 o'clock - as we had hoped to see Mr. Somers-Clarke. I wanted very much to see his boat. But we found he and Prof. Sayce had gone early to the tombs, so after a little inspection of the old town, we came away - and have with difficulty, against a head wind made 15 miles.

@@ -326,7 +326,7 @@ Quinguagesima Sunday. Feb. 28. -

We had thought of getting off today, but there was no wind, and Mr. Baldwin wants us to wait for him tomorrow. I did not leave the boat, in the afternoon the wind very high. Mrs. Constantine Read and her cousin made us a visit, and Mr. Shephard and his sister of the Hyksos also came. He, the Engineer of the new railroad. Mohammed Mohassib also came.

+

We had thought of getting off today, but there was no wind, and Mr. Baldwin wants us to wait for him tomorrow. I did not leave the boat, in the afternoon the wind very high. Mrs. Constantine Read and her cousin made us a visit, and Mr. Shephard and his sister of the Hyksos also came. He, the Engineer of the new railroad. Mohammed Mohassib also came.

@@ -338,19 +338,19 @@ March 2d. Tuesday. -

A very early start this morning and rowing and floating in company with the Ammon-Ra and the Osiris, we reached Keneh about 3 o'clock, and the rest started in the felucca, before we reached the opposite landing for Denderah, and we floated down below and waited for them. Very hot for 2 hours - found the Columbia at Denderah. They reported on coming home, very unruly donkey boys, and very exciting rows with them. All the morning we were just in advance of the Osiris, and she floated most unpleasantly near us - two or three times we were actually in collision side by side, and great commotion among the crews. Lord St. Oswald is on her. They all came back in an hour and a half, and we floated and rowed 3 or 4 miles farther down - and tied up with strong wind blowing from the north, at 6:30. I enjoyed a walk on deck while they were away - looking at the splendid desert mountains across the river beyond Keneh. What a hot, desolate spot Keneh must have been last summer, when the cholera raged so violently! I have never been in the town but once - and it lies so back from the river that it cannot be well seen. I suppose just now the Mecca pilgrims are crowding them on their way to Mecca - I should like to have ridden into the town today, and out a way upon the Koser road. The descriptions of this desert route have always fascinated me. We think we have made 31 miles today.

+

A very early start this morning and rowing and floating in company with the Ammon-Ra and the Osiris, we reached Keneh about 3 o'clock, and the rest started in the felucca, before we reached the opposite landing for Denderah, and we floated down below and waited for them. Very hot for 2 hours - found the Columbia at Denderah. They reported on coming home, very unruly donkey boys, and very exciting rows with them. All the morning we were just in advance of the Osiris, and she floated most unpleasantly near us - two or three times we were actually in collision side by side, and great commotion among the crews. Lord St. Oswald is on her. They all came back in an hour and a half, and we floated and rowed 3 or 4 miles farther down - and tied up with strong wind blowing from the north, at 6:30. I enjoyed a walk on deck while they were away - looking at the splendid desert mountains across the river beyond Keneh. What a hot, desolate spot Keneh must have been last summer, when the cholera raged so violently! I have never been in the town but once - and it lies so back from the river that it cannot be well seen. I suppose just now the Mecca pilgrims are crowding them on their way to Mecca - I should like to have ridden into the town today, and out a way upon the Koser road. The descriptions of this desert route have always fascinated me. We think we have made 31 miles today.

Wednesday. March 3. -

This is Ash Wednesday - and the last of the 30 days of Ramadan - for which we are truly thankful - for Rais Fuli - 2 Rais Mattar - Moomond the big Mohammed, and Baken the little sailor, all keep it rigourously. They represent the very pick of the crew - and things will now be more cheerful. This had been a distracting day. Such a mix as we, the Osiris, the Ammon-Ra, the Columbia and several large working boats have been in most of the day. I have never known such an experience - the wind has been from the north most of the time. Our crew have worked splendidly at their oars, and beaten all the others out and out. It was a splendid triumph. The gale increased and at 5 o'clock we tied up, followed by all the others - and we are strung along the bank, within 2 or 3 miles of Kasr-el Sayd. After we landed we went to visit the Baldwins. We have made 25 miles - and are rolling a little uneasily in the wind.

+

This is Ash Wednesday - and the last of the 30 days of Ramadan - for which we are truly thankful - for Rais Fuli - 2 Rais Mattar - Moomond the big Mohammed, and Baken the little sailor, all keep it rigourously. They represent the very pick of the crew - and things will now be more cheerful. This had been a distracting day. Such a mix as we, the Osiris, the Ammon-Ra, the Columbia and several large working boats have been in most of the day. I have never known such an experience - the wind has been from the north most of the time. Our crew have worked splendidly at their oars, and beaten all the others out and out. It was a splendid triumph. The gale increased and at 5 o'clock we tied up, followed by all the others - and we are strung along the bank, within 2 or 3 miles of Kasr-el Sayd. After we landed we went to visit the Baldwins. We have made 25 miles - and are rolling a little uneasily in the wind.

Thursday. March 4. -

Made about 5 miles early this morning - heavy gale from the north has made it impossible to stir since 8 o'clock. We are 3 miles below Kasr el-Sayd.

+

Made about 5 miles early this morning - heavy gale from the north has made it impossible to stir since 8 o'clock. We are 3 miles below Kasr el-Sayd.

@@ -368,271 +368,271 @@ 1st Sunday in Lent. March 7. -

Made from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. 27-1/2 miles - are now at Akmim.

+

Made from 6 A.M. to 8 P.M. 27-1/2 miles - are now at Akmim.

Monday. March 8. -

Started early, and made Sohag by 9 o'clock - where we stopped to get coal and provisions and our mail. By 11 o'clock P.M. had come 6 miles below Sohag - making the whole day 11 miles. North wind.

+

Started early, and made Sohag by 9 o'clock - where we stopped to get coal and provisions and our mail. By 11 o'clock P.M. had come 6 miles below Sohag - making the whole day 11 miles. North wind.

Tuesday. March 9. -

Made 2 miles today early - tied up since in a gale - wind a little west of north - so that we are hoping it may move around to the south. We would like so much to have one record day of gentle south wind! Chonsu passed us, being so heavy, she floats fast. Columbia still behind. Had a row in the felucca. PAGE 110

+

Made 2 miles today early - tied up since in a gale - wind a little west of north - so that we are hoping it may move around to the south. We would like so much to have one record day of gentle south wind! Chonsu passed us, being so heavy, she floats fast. Columbia still behind. Had a row in the felucca.

-
+
- Wednesday. March 10. + Wednesday. March 10.

Early this morning, we managed to make about 10 yards - but the wind increasing we tied up again - and now lying just as we did all day yesterday at the mercy of the wind, blowing across miles of sand. For days the sky has been full of clouds and last evening they were so ominous, that I hoped the night would bring rain, and perhaps break this deadly magic spell of north wind - but it has been even worse today. We have had the boat as tightly closed as possible, but the air everywhere has been thick with this fine, impalpable sand.

-
+
- Thursday. March 11. + Thursday. March 11.

Still lying at the same spot, and a gale still blowing - impossible to be on deck except for a walk near sunset - so much sand still flying - rugs cushions etc. all folded and packed away.

-
+
- Friday. March 12. + Friday. March 12. -

Got away at 6 o'clock and rowed and floated until about 10 - when the wind grew into such a sudden gale, we pulled with difficulty to the shore - where some work boats had taken refuge. Soon after the Nephtys, with the Duke of Hamilton, and a tug came down the river, and came to the shore just below us. 3 miles today.

+

Got away at 6 o'clock and rowed and floated until about 10 - when the wind grew into such a sudden gale, we pulled with difficulty to the shore - where some work boats had taken refuge. Soon after the Nephtys, with the Duke of Hamilton, and a tug came down the river, and came to the shore just below us. 3 miles today.

-
+
- Saturday. March 13. + Saturday. March 13. -

Started in a light wind at 6 A.M. at 11 it was blowing such a gale that we tied up at the high cliffs about 2 miles above and opposite PAGE 111 Tahtah. Just where there is a group of palms - and the white little mosque against the yellow cliffs. Luckily it was not a hot day, or the reflection from those towering limestone cliffs would have been insufferable. But how the wind has blown - in our sheltered position however we got no sand. The canvass on the river side, and over the deck, and at the back were put up - leaving the land side with its pretty sights open - and under the hooded seats, the deck was charming for sitting. All the others went to walk, but I took mine on the clean deck. The Columbia came in sight this morning, and drew up just above us. At 6:30 we both went off, in the bright moonlight, the wind having fallen very much - and the men are still rowing. (They rowed until 12:30, thus making 27 miles).

+

Started in a light wind at 6 A.M. at 11 it was blowing such a gale that we tied up at the high cliffs about 2 miles above and opposite Tahtah. Just where there is a group of palms - and the white little mosque against the yellow cliffs. Luckily it was not a hot day, or the reflection from those towering limestone cliffs would have been insufferable. But how the wind has blown - in our sheltered position however we got no sand. The canvass on the river side, and over the deck, and at the back were put up - leaving the land side with its pretty sights open - and under the hooded seats, the deck was charming for sitting. All the others went to walk, but I took mine on the clean deck. The Columbia came in sight this morning, and drew up just above us. At 6:30 we both went off, in the bright moonlight, the wind having fallen very much - and the men are still rowing. (They rowed until 12:30, thus making 27 miles).

-
+
- Second Sunday in Lent. March 14. + Second Sunday in Lent. March 14. -

Started early rowing. North wind strong most of the day. We are now tied up 2 miles above Assiut - the lights of the town plainly to be seen. Columbia near us. A superb sunset.

+

Started early rowing. North wind strong most of the day. We are now tied up 2 miles above Assiut - the lights of the town plainly to be seen. Columbia near us. A superb sunset.

-
+
- Monda,. March 15. + MondaMonday. March 15. -

Between marketing, getting in coke, and the mail, we were at Assiut, until after one o'clock. The afternoon a regular gale blowing, made 2 miles at 8 o'clock. PAGE 112

+

Between marketing, getting in coke, and the mail, we were at Assiut, until after one o'clock. The afternoon a regular gale blowing, made 2 miles at 8 o'clock.

-
+
- Tuesday. March 16. + Tuesday. March 16. -

We are now beginning to calculate the distance made from 1:30 P.M. of each day. Since that time last night we have made 32 miles - and have passed the troublesome Gebel Abufedah, and are anchored in the stream. We have an almost full moon now, and lovely effects this evening.

+

We are now beginning to calculate the distance made from 1:30 P.M. of each day. Since that time last night we have made 32 miles - and have passed the troublesome Gebel Abufedah, and are anchored in the stream. We have an almost full moon now, and lovely effects this evening.

-
+
- Wednesday. March 17. + Wednesday. March 17. -

Made 21 miles - were blown ashore in the strong wind early in the afternoon near Haggi Kandul - and a lot of noisy children and rough looking men hung about the boat making it hideous with their clamour. We got away from that unpleasant neighborhood and floated down until 10 o'clock. Such a radiant night!

+

Made 21 miles - were blown ashore in the strong wind early in the afternoon near Haggi Kandul - and a lot of noisy children and rough looking men hung about the boat making it hideous with their clamour. We got away from that unpleasant neighborhood and floated down until 10 o'clock. Such a radiant night!

-
+
- Thursday. March 18. + Thursday. March 18. -

We have made 25 miles in the last 24 hours - the day being the calmest we have had and the hottest. We were all driven down stairs after luncheon by the heat. Passed Beni Hassan at one o'clock - but did not stop - as we are so belated. Every day Theodore says "tomorrow" I shall telegraph for a tug, if the south sind doesn't come. Each day we hopefully look for it - and we would even welcome a Khamseen. We reached Minieh at 7 o'clock and got our mail, and will lie here all night. The full moon was wonderfully beautiful and the night so soft. A heavy mist however lying along the river. PAGE 113

+

We have made 25 miles in the last 24 hours - the day being the calmest we have had and the hottest. We were all driven down stairs after luncheon by the heat. Passed Beni Hassan at one o'clock - but did not stop - as we are so belated. Every day Theodore says "tomorrow" I shall telegraph for a tug, if the south sind doesn't come. Each day we hopefully look for it - and we would even welcome a Khamseen. We reached Minieh at 7 o'clock and got our mail, and will lie here all night. The full moon was wonderfully beautiful and the night so soft. A heavy mist however lying along the river.

-
+
- Friday. March 19. + Friday. March 19. -

An early start, and rowing and occasional sailing, or lying by when the wind was too strong, has brought us to within 3 miles of Fashen - making since 1:30, 44 miles, or 61-1/2 from Minieh this morning - a strange, wonderful sunset - and a cloudy night.

+

An early start, and rowing and occasional sailing, or lying by when the wind was too strong, has brought us to within 3 miles of Fashen - making since 1:30, 44 miles, or 61-1/2 from Minieh this morning - a strange, wonderful sunset - and a cloudy night.

-
+
- Saturday - March 20. + Saturday - March 20. -

Started at 6 A.M. made Benisoef about 1:30 - and a drifting and sailing delightfully along before a light wind, all the afternoon, we are now lying 7 miles from Wasta, - 54-1/2 miles since 1:30 yesterday, and 25 miles since 1:30 today. Medum in sight.

+

Started at 6 A.M. made Benisoef about 1:30 - and a drifting and sailing delightfully along before a light wind, all the afternoon, we are now lying 7 miles from Wasta, - 54-1/2 miles since 1:30 yesterday, and 25 miles since 1:30 today. Medum in sight.

-
+
- Third Sunday in Lent. March 21st. + Third Sunday in Lent. March 21st. -

An early start in a good wind brought us along so surprisingly that we were near Bedrascheen at 10:30, having discovered some minutes before that beautiful view of the dome and slender minarets of Mohammed Ali - shining in the sun above the thick haze, looking like some enchanted palace. The sailing was so fine, and the Beduin showing her paces so splendidly, that we suddenly decided we would not stop for the visit to Sakkarah, and kept on for the Museum landing at Ghizeh. The sky being full of great clouds, very unlike Egypt - all the morning the blue sky making such delightful contrasts with their great swelling white domes, and the pyramids of Lisht, Dashur, and Sakkarah showing splendidly - until quite in a moment the clouds grew dirty and the atmosphere thick, the wind increased, and we were blown to the bank, with PAGE 114 great effort escaping collision with the rocky foundation of a big sakiyeh on the top of which as usual a blindfolded bullock was walking round and round his wheel. Here we have been ever since, the wind growing into a gale, and the opposite shore almost hidden by the clouds of sand blowing across its sandy waste. We are quite sheltered here from it, though we get enough of it as the atmosphere is so charged with it and when in the afternoon it began softly to rain, the drops seemed like mud, and made a fine mess of our clean windows. The waves beat so high and roughly on the lee shore against which we lay, that the two feluccas, were in danger, and our men worked almost stripped, for 2 hours before they were bailed and lifted to a place of safety. In my stern room the uproar was tremendous - Theodore and Clarence went for a walk, but were driven home by the wind and rain, and there was a great fracas on deck, getting everything under canvass, safe from the wet. The men are always so funny with a rain - like children with a snow storm, and never seem quite to know what to do - 67 miles to 1:30 today. At 11 o'clock this evening, I saw two or three stars showing.

+

An early start in a good wind brought us along so surprisingly that we were near Bedrascheen at 10:30, having discovered some minutes before that beautiful view of the dome and slender minarets of Mohammed Ali - shining in the sun above the thick haze, looking like some enchanted palace. The sailing was so fine, and the Beduin showing her paces so splendidly, that we suddenly decided we would not stop for the visit to Sakkarah, and kept on for the Museum landing at Ghizeh. The sky being full of great clouds, very unlike Egypt - all the morning the blue sky making such delightful contrasts with their great swelling white domes, and the pyramids of Lisht, Dashur, and Sakkarah showing splendidly - until quite in a moment the clouds grew dirty and the atmosphere thick, the wind increased, and we were blown to the bank, with great effort escaping collision with the rocky foundation of a big sakiyeh on the top of which as usual a blindfolded bullock was walking round and round his wheel. Here we have been ever since, the wind growing into a gale, and the opposite shore almost hidden by the clouds of sand blowing across its sandy waste. We are quite sheltered here from it, though we get enough of it as the atmosphere is so charged with it and when in the afternoon it began softly to rain, the drops seemed like mud, and made a fine mess of our clean windows. The waves beat so high and roughly on the lee shore against which we lay, that the two feluccas, were in danger, and our men worked almost stripped, for 2 hours before they were bailed and lifted to a place of safety. In my stern room the uproar was tremendous - Theodore and Clarence went for a walk, but were driven home by the wind and rain, and there was a great fracas on deck, getting everything under canvass, safe from the wet. The men are always so funny with a rain - like children with a snow storm, and never seem quite to know what to do - 67 miles to 1:30 today. At 11 o'clock this evening, I saw two or three stars showing.

-
+
- Monday, March 22. + Monday, March 22. -

We attempted to get on this A.M. at 6 o'clock and succeeded only in making a start and were driven to shore about Old Cairo - tremendous wind, and rain almost amounting to hail in the afternoon - and with our new decks so warped, we came to great grief - the boat leaking in many places - so that when Theodore and Clarence came back from Cairo, where they went and had lunch and came back late in the PAGE 115 afternoon - they found us with curtains taken down from the windows, and bowls and pans standing about everywhere. They were so pleased to get home - they were ineffably amiable - said it seemed after Cairo like Paradise.

+

We attempted to get on this A.M. at 6 o'clock and succeeded only in making a start and were driven to shore about Old Cairo - tremendous wind, and rain almost amounting to hail in the afternoon - and with our new decks so warped, we came to great grief - the boat leaking in many places - so that when Theodore and Clarence came back from Cairo, where they went and had lunch and came back late in the afternoon - they found us with curtains taken down from the windows, and bowls and pans standing about everywhere. They were so pleased to get home - they were ineffably amiable - said it seemed after Cairo like Paradise.

-
+
- Tuesday. March 23. + Tuesday. March 23. -

We made the Museum landing at Ghizeh this morning early - and fortunately we were to have accomplished it - for the wind has increased in violence - it has been a gale all day - and it is cold and disagreeable - a bad March day for any part of the world. We spent a pleasant morning however at the Museum - and had it all to ourselves. Theodore and Clarence have been into Cairo, and report it dismal.

+

We made the Museum landing at Ghizeh this morning early - and fortunately we were to have accomplished it - for the wind has increased in violence - it has been a gale all day - and it is cold and disagreeable - a bad March day for any part of the world. We spent a pleasant morning however at the Museum - and had it all to ourselves. Theodore and Clarence have been into Cairo, and report it dismal.

-
+
- Wednesday. March 24. + Wednesday. March 24. -

A gale all day - with rain now and then. Morning at the Museum - Salah came out to see us.

+

A gale all day - with rain now and then. Morning at the Museum - Salah came out to see us.

-
+
- Thursday. March 25. + Thursday. March 25. -

Very busy all the morning with the various work people coming to the boat. Carpenters, painters, upholsterer, sail makers. Mary and I drove in the afternoon - charming and warmer - Cairo very pretty with flowering shrubs and vines - very quiet and empty. Poor Abdul had been quite ill for some days, and so suffering that we sent for Dr. Sandwith yesterday, who said he must go to the hospital for a few days. So this PAGE 116 morning the men with Jones, took him down in the felucca- being able to go quite to its doors in the boat. He is a great loss to us just at present not being simply the valued servant, but interpreter. Fortunately we have fallen back on Salah, who fortunately has no engagement just now, and comes out to us every day. Excessively warm. I have never been in Cairo when so warm.

+

Very busy all the morning with the various work people coming to the boat. Carpenters, painters, upholsterer, sail makers. Mary and I drove in the afternoon - charming and warmer - Cairo very pretty with flowering shrubs and vines - very quiet and empty. Poor Abdul had been quite ill for some days, and so suffering that we sent for Dr. Sandwith yesterday, who said he must go to the hospital for a few days. So this morning the men with Jones, took him down in the felucca- being able to go quite to its doors in the boat. He is a great loss to us just at present not being simply the valued servant, but interpreter. Fortunately we have fallen back on Salah, who fortunately has no engagement just now, and comes out to us every day. Excessively warm. I have never been in Cairo when so warm.

-
+
- Friday. March 26. + Friday. March 26. -

Mrs. Taylor and Florence came this morning and made a visit, and were very pleasant - putting us en rapport with everything in and about Cairo - asking us to dine on Saturday with them at the Gesireh to meet Sir John Scott, who wants to know Theodore, and whom Theodore is very keen to meet. Sir John is Judicial Advisor to the Khedive, and did excellent work in India before coming here to help straighten out Egyptian affairs. In the afternoon went to the races - which were rather slow - met Mrs. Hamilton Lang and her daughter - saw Gen. Kitchener, the Sirdâr and other notables.

+

Mrs. Taylor and Florence came this morning and made a visit, and were very pleasant - putting us en rapport with everything in and about Cairo - asking us to dine on Saturday with them at the Gesireh to meet Sir John Scott, who wants to know Theodore, and whom Theodore is very keen to meet. Sir John is Judicial Advisor to the Khedive, and did excellent work in India before coming here to help straighten out Egyptian affairs. In the afternoon went to the races - which were rather slow - met Mrs. Hamilton Lang and her daughter - saw Gen. Kitchener, the Sirdâr and other notables.

-
+
- Fourth Sunday in Lent. March 28. + Fourth Sunday in Lent. March 28. -

I was ill all day yesterday, and could not go to dinner with Mrs. Taylor - which was reported very pleasant. This afternoon Dr. and Mrs. Sandwith came to tea - and Mrs. Taylor and Florence, and her fiancé Mr. Morice to dine. We had a nice evening. PAGE 117

+

I was ill all day yesterday, and could not go to dinner with Mrs. Taylor - which was reported very pleasant. This afternoon Dr. and Mrs. Sandwith came to tea - and Mrs. Taylor and Florence, and her fiancé Mr. Morice to dine. We had a nice evening.

-
+
- Tuesday. March 30. Cairo. + Tuesday. March 30. Cairo. -

We came over to Shepheards this afternoon - and are in the corner room we had 5 years ago, when Fielding was with us. Then it was cold and we had a fire in the big sitting room. Now it is so hot, that we have all the windows open at night and shut during the day to keep out the heat. But it is very noisy and smelly. I do not like it, although my balcony opens on the pretty garden. Hotel quite empty - very tired from yesterday - packing and arranging.

+

We came over to Shepheards this afternoon - and are in the corner room we had 5 years ago, when Fielding was with us. Then it was cold and we had a fire in the big sitting room. Now it is so hot, that we have all the windows open at night and shut during the day to keep out the heat. But it is very noisy and smelly. I do not like it, although my balcony opens on the pretty garden. Hotel quite empty - very tired from yesterday - packing and arranging.

-
+
- Wednesday, March 31. + Wednesday, March 31. -

Over at the boat which still lies at Ghizeh - and where our Rais intends to stay all summer because it is so much cooler. Delightful drive in the afternoon.

+

Over at the boat which still lies at Ghizeh - and where our Rais intends to stay all summer because it is so much cooler. Delightful drive in the afternoon.

-
+
- Thursday, April 1st. + Thursday, April 1st. -

Theodore and Clarence went to the Courts of Justice this morning with Sir John Scott and Mr. Morice, and were much interested. Abdul came back from the hospital, very weak and thin, but almost well. A bothersome time for days getting all the carpets, curtains, stuffs, etc. of the boat safely packed away from dangers of moths and vermin. The boat reeks with the smell of Naphthaline and Camphor. The poor Beduin, so changed - closed and dark, with her thick brown summer awnings enshrouding her - all the men gone but Rais Fuli, and Arbuk, the nice little crew cook, who stays with the Captain - and Abdul, who will live with Fuli on the boat, and look after the inside cleaning - as he PAGE 118 reads and writes English, it will be very convenient for us - and Rais Fuli is immensely glad to have him. The Taylors sailed for Marseilles today in the Clyde.

+

Theodore and Clarence went to the Courts of Justice this morning with Sir John Scott andMr. Morice, and were much interested. Abdul came back from the hospital, very weak and thin, but almost well. A bothersome time for days getting all the carpets, curtains, stuffs, etc. of the boat safely packed away from dangers of moths and vermin. The boat reeks with the smell of Naphthaline and Camphor. The poor Beduin, so changed - closed and dark, with her thick brown summer awnings enshrouding her - all the men gone but Rais Fuli, and Arbuk, the nice little crew cook, who stays with the Captain - and Abdul, who will live with Fuli on the boat, and look after the inside cleaning - as he reads and writes English, it will be very convenient for us - and Rais Fuli is immensely glad to have him. The Taylors sailed for Marseilles today in the Clyde.

-
+
- Friday, April 2d. + Friday, April 2d. -

We were obliged to go again to the boat to confer with the old French painter as to the colours for the outside. Then goodbye to all - and a delightful drive. Theodore and Clarence on their horses with us most of the way. The air has been quite delightful for 2 days - all our friends beg us to stay for the charming April weather. We are off tomorrow morning for Alexandria and sail for Brindisi in the afternoon.

+

We were obliged to go again to the boat to confer with the old French painter as to the colours for the outside. Then goodbye to all - and a delightful drive. Theodore and Clarence on their horses with us most of the way. The air has been quite delightful for 2 days - all our friends beg us to stay for the charming April weather. We are off tomorrow morning for Alexandria and sail for Brindisi in the afternoon.

-
+
- Rome. Bristol Hotel. April 15. + Rome. Bristol Hotel. April 15. -

A long interval in this journal. We left Alexandria the afternoon of the 3d in the fine new S.S. Bohemia for Brindisi. Weather very warm - and we were glad of the welcome change which two or three hours at sea brought. Boat very comfortable - but passage rough - almost every one in his bed - I stayed in mine Sunday and Monday - and we landed at Brindisi at 5 o'clock and made our train, because they were complaisant enough to hold our train 40 minutes for us. The long ride to Naples was not so tiring, and seemed more pleasant than usual. So delightful the country seemed in its fresh spring greenness - and the huge vegetable garden which stretches as far as the eye can see, without boundaries, for miles before reaching Naples, is something quite wonderful. Everything planted under the thin foliaged trees, with their garlands PAGE 119 of vines stretching from tree to tree. We found pleasant rooms at the Grand Hotel, but Theodore had taken a cold in crossing, which developed into a light form of grippe, which gave him much suffering and restlessness - and he had the Doctor (Malbrane) who is always so simple and helpful, and stayed in the room all the time, and one day in bed. As the weather was not good, clouds everywhere, Vesuvius and the islands hidden from view most of the time, I stayed at home with Theodore - and on Saturday the 10th he was well enough to come on here - Clarence, Mary, Amilie and Jones spent one day at Pompeii, and Clarence the next day at Vesuvius. We had rooms engaged at the Quirinal, but found them much too small and fortunately having had an offer from the Bristol we came here, which is always my favorite hotel in Rome. But alas, I have since coming here developed the grippe also - and have been in bed and in the house all the time until yesterday, as uncomfortable as I ever remember of being - with Dr. Bull in daily attendance. All the world more or less is in Rome - and to my thinking Holy Week is not the time to visit Rome, unless one is interested in church ceremonies. The pictures in churches covered, many galleries closed etc.

+

A long interval in this journal. We left Alexandria the afternoon of the 3d in the fine new S.S. Bohemia for Brindisi. Weather very warm - and we were glad of the welcome change which two or three hours at sea brought. Boat very comfortable - but passage rough - almost every one in his bed - I stayed in mine Sunday and Monday - and we landed at Brindisi at 5 o'clock and made our train, because they were complaisant enough to hold our train 40 minutes for us. The long ride to Naples was not so tiring, and seemed more pleasant than usual. So delightful the country seemed in its fresh spring greenness - and the huge vegetable garden which stretches as far as the eye can see, without boundaries, for miles before reaching Naples, is something quite wonderful. Everything planted under the thin foliaged trees, with their garlands of vines stretching from tree to tree. We found pleasant rooms at the Grand Hotel, but Theodore had taken a cold in crossing, which developed into a light form of grippe, which gave him much suffering and restlessness - and he had the Doctor (Malbrane) who is always so simple and helpful, and stayed in the room all the time, and one day in bed. As the weather was not good, clouds everywhere, Vesuvius and the islands hidden from view most of the time, I stayed at home with Theodore - and on Saturday the 10th he was well enough to come on here - Clarence, Mary, Amilie and Jones spent one day at Pompeii, and Clarence the next day at Vesuvius. We had rooms engaged at the Quirinal, but found them much too small and fortunately having had an offer from the Bristol we came here, which is always my favorite hotel in Rome. But alas, I have since coming here developed the grippe also - and have been in bed and in the house all the time until yesterday, as uncomfortable as I ever remember of being - with Dr. Bull in daily attendance. All the world more or less is in Rome - and to my thinking Holy Week is not the time to visit Rome, unless one is interested in church ceremonies. The pictures in churches covered, many galleries closed etc.

-
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- Hotel Grande Bretagne. Florence. April 22. + Hotel Grande Bretagne. Florence. April 22. -

We got away from Rome Tuesday the 20th at 9 o'clock in the morning - I was glad to leave - for Mary had taken cold, and we were all under the weather. On Easter Sunday, I was able to drive out 7 miles on the Campagna to the Villa Livia, where we met by invitation Mrs. Elliott, who had asked some of her friends to take tea with us there. PAGE 120 Mrs. Stillman, the once favorite beauty was there - Mr. Larz Anderson - the young Swedish American sculptor Anderson, whose mother lives in Newport was there and others. It was not quite my idea of enjoyment - sitting at 5 o'clock P.M. on rugs on the ground at the top of a windy hill - but Mrs. Elliott's intention was good and kind. The next morning, Theodore, Mary and I went to St. Peters and saw the lovely Melozzo angels and frescoes in the inner sacristy - then drove to the Colosseum and along the Via S. Gregorio, the morning being quite warm and beautiful. Theodore went to lunch with the Elliotts, and in the afternoon Mary and I drove to the Villa Doria Pamphilia, the lovely grounds of which were full of people, it being Easter Monday and a holiday. But the weather had changed and the wind was cold - so we drove to the Piazzo Rusticucci to say goodbye to Mrs. Elliott and had a pleasant visit - meeting for the first time Mr. Elliott - a handsome, rather invalid looking man, whom I liked - especially when he took me on to his roof garden which he cultivates entirely himself, and which has charming views of S. Pietro and the whole quarter. It was gay with vines and climbing roses and flowers and quite fascinating. Clarence met us there, and after tea we all drove home. Mrs. Elliott and her cousin Miss Von Ralem having dined with us the night before. We had a pleasant ride to Florence, found Nettie waiting for us, and who soon went off with Mary. We have pleasant rooms here overlooking the Arno and Ponto Vecchio, and we, that is Theodore and I, have decided to stay here and not go to Venice - Clarence will go alone. PAGE 121

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We got away from Rome Tuesday the 20th at 9 o'clock in the morning - I was glad to leave - for Mary had taken cold, and we were all under the weather. On Easter Sunday, I was able to drive out 7 miles on the Campagna to the Villa Livia, where we met by invitation Mrs. Elliott, who had asked some of her friends to take tea with us there. Mrs. Stillman, the once favorite beauty was there - Mr. Larz Anderson - the young Swedish American sculptor Anderson, whose mother lives in Newport was there and others. It was not quite my idea of enjoyment - sitting at 5 o'clock P.M. on rugs on the ground at the top of a windy hill - but Mrs. Elliott's intention was good and kind. The next morning, Theodore, Mary and I went to St. Peters and saw the lovely Melozzo angels and frescoes in the inner sacristy - then drove to the Colosseum and along the Via S. Gregorio, the morning being quite warm and beautiful. Theodore went to lunch with the Elliotts, and in the afternoon Mary and I drove to the Villa Doria Pamphilia, the lovely grounds of which were full of people, it being Easter Monday and a holiday. But the weather had changed and the wind was cold - so we drove to the Piazzo Rusticucci to say goodbye to Mrs. Elliott and had a pleasant visit - meeting for the first time Mr. Elliott - a handsome, rather invalid looking man, whom I liked - especially when he took me on to his roof garden which he cultivates entirely himself, and which has charming views of S. Pietro and the whole quarter. It was gay with vines and climbing roses and flowers and quite fascinating. Clarence met us there, and after tea we all drove home. Mrs. Elliott and her cousin Miss Von Ralem having dined with us the night before. We had a pleasant ride to Florence, found Nettie waiting for us, and who soon went off with Mary. We have pleasant rooms here overlooking the Arno and Ponto Vecchio, and we, that is Theodore and I, have decided to stay here and not go to Venice - Clarence will go alone.

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- April 24. Saturday. + April 24. Saturday. -

We are having a rainy day - Nettie and I however went for a little shopping this morning - before the rain began - the wind was blowing and the dust flying however. We brought up at Pelotti's where we met Theodore, and looked at many enticing things. Mr. Berenson came to lunch - and after Lieutenant Niblock called - home all the afternoon the rain pouring. Theodore still has a troublesome cold, and I have quite mended. Yesterday morning, Nettie, Theodore and I drove a long time in the lovely Cascine. In the afternoon a visit to the Bardini palace with its fascinating collection, and then a visit to Lizzie - Mary and Clarence have been busy each day doing Florence. This afternoon Clarence went off alone to Venice, charged with the precious things and the mission to the Armenian convent of St. Lazarre. We have done the Uffizzi and Academia, and had a lovely afternoon at San Miniato. Wednesday evening Mrs. Bend and her daughters dined with us, and on Thursday Mrs. Costellar and Berenson.

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We are having a rainy day - Nettie and I however went for a little shopping this morning - before the rain began - the wind was blowing and the dust flying however. We brought up at Pelotti's where we met Theodore, and looked at many enticing things. Mr. Berenson came to lunch - and after Lieutenant Niblock called - home all the afternoon the rain pouring. Theodore still has a troublesome cold, and I have quite mended. Yesterday morning, Nettie, Theodore and I drove a long time in the lovely Cascine. In the afternoon a visit to the Bardini palace with its fascinating collection, and then a visit to Lizzie - Mary and Clarence have been busy each day doing Florence. This afternoon Clarence went off alone to Venice, charged with the precious things and the mission to the Armenian convent of St. Lazarre. We have done the Uffizzi and Academia, and had a lovely afternoon at San Miniato. Wednesday evening Mrs. Bend and her daughters dined with us, and on Thursday Mrs. Costellar and Berenson.

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- Sunday after Easter. April 25. + Sunday after Easter. April 25. -

We are just home from the Victoria Hotel, where we have been dining with Mrs. Bend and spent a pleasant evening with her and her two pretty girls. The day has been lovely - Nettie and I had a delicious morning together at the Pitti - and afterwards went to the church of the Carmine to see the Masaccio frescoes - which I knew well from my photographs - and could therefore intelligently enjoy in detail, despite the darkness of the little chapel where they are, and their faded condition. PAGE 122 Lizzie Buttles and both girls came to lunch, and stayed to tea. After they had gone, Mrs. Baldwin called. I found her simple, pleasant and unaffected - and I enjoyed talking to her. She has asked us to lunch on Tuesday.

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We are just home from the Victoria Hotel, where we have been dining with Mrs. Bend and spent a pleasant evening with her and her two pretty girls. The day has been lovely - Nettie and I had a delicious morning together at the Pitti - and afterwards went to the church of the Carmine to see the Masaccio frescoes - which I knew well from my photographs - and could therefore intelligently enjoy in detail, despite the darkness of the little chapel where they are, and their faded condition. Lizzie Buttles and both girls came to lunch, and stayed to tea. After they had gone, Mrs. Baldwin called. I found her simple, pleasant and unaffected - and I enjoyed talking to her. She has asked us to lunch on Tuesday.

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- Monday. April 26. + Monday. April 26. -

After a morning with Mary and Theodore at the Bargello, among the della Robias and Donatellos - Theodore and I drove out to the Villa Rosa at Fiesole to lunch with Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. A nice scotch woman was there - a Miss Christina Breenner - worker in and writer on education of women. A pleasant visit, and much talking - and a charming drive down the hill and a turn in the Cascine which was quite too lovely - none of the gay throng having arrived - the air so delicious - the birds singing like mad. We had to hurry home, for Mrs. Bend and her girls were coming to tea to meet Lizzie and the girls. Nettie, poor child, detained at home with one of her bad neuralgia headaches - Theodore and I dined alone - and have had a quiet evening, writing letters.

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After a morning with Mary and Theodore at the Bargello, among the della Robias and Donatellos - Theodore and I drove out to the Villa Rosa at Fiesole to lunch with Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. A nice scotch woman was there - a Miss Christina Breenner - worker in and writer on education of women. A pleasant visit, and much talking - and a charming drive down the hill and a turn in the Cascine which was quite too lovely - none of the gay throng having arrived - the air so delicious - the birds singing like mad. We had to hurry home, for Mrs. Bend and her girls were coming to tea to meet Lizzie and the girls. Nettie, poor child, detained at home with one of her bad neuralgia headaches - Theodore and I dined alone - and have had a quiet evening, writing letters.

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- Tuesday, April 27. + Tuesday, April 27. -

Such a busy day - shopping this morning - lunching at Dr. Baldwins - where we had a delightful visit - and a beautiful luncheon, the house charming - home to meet Nettie for some searching of photographs at Alinaris - then to Lizzies to tea - and Nettie sang for us in splendid voice. Then a drive with Theodore and Mary in the Cascine. Mary came to dine, and Nettie came for her with Hassan in the evening. PAGE 123 Afterwards Theodore and I went up to Mrs. Woodward Haven's rooms to pay a visit and say goodbye. Weather very warm - off tomorrow for Milan.

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Such a busy day - shopping this morning - lunching at Dr. Baldwins - where we had a delightful visit - and a beautiful luncheon, the house charming - home to meet Nettie for some searching of photographs at Alinaris - then to Lizzies to tea - and Nettie sang for us in splendid voice. Then a drive with Theodore and Mary in the Cascine. Mary came to dine, and Nettie came for her with Hassan in the evening. Afterwards Theodore and I went up to Mrs. Woodward Haven's rooms to pay a visit and say goodbye. Weather very warm - off tomorrow for Milan.

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- Wednesday. April 28th. + Wednesday. April 28th. -

A very busy morning with Mary - Lizzie and the girls came to lunch - and at 2 o'clock we had to say goodbye to Lizzie and Mary - and Nettie, Theodore and I started for Milan, which we reached comfortably enough at 10 o'clock - taking possession of our old, pleasant rooms at this Hotel Cavour.

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A very busy morning with Mary - Lizzie and the girls came to lunch - and at 2 o'clock we had to say goodbye to Lizzie and Mary - and Nettie, Theodore and I started for Milan, which we reached comfortably enough at 10 o'clock - taking possession of our old, pleasant rooms at this Hotel Cavour.

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- Thursday. April 29. + Thursday. April 29. -

Theodore, Nettie and I started out at 10 o'clock for the Brera - where we stayed quite 2 hours - this afternoon Nettie and I drove to the other end of everywhere, to the interesting little church of S. Eustorgio. We found it was a festa, and the little piazza in front of the church full of bazaars and peasants. As the especial picture we wanted to see was near the entrance, we got the wife of the Sacristan to open it for us - the picture is a lovely one of the Madonna enthroned by Borgognone. The 3 different entrances to the church were lined with collections of blind, lame and halt, and the poor things all begging. Then we drove along distance to S. Ambrogio, which I saw some years ago. Here there was a great service going on, and we could see nothing. So we came home, stopping on the way to buy some flowers. What a contrast to Florence - which was literally lined with flowers and roses. Here not a flower for sale on the streets, and hardly any PAGE 124 shops to be found of them. The streets of Milan are now so intersected by tramways that driving is impossible and uncomfortable. We found Lord Fitzhardinge and his party here just on their way up from Egypt, and Dr. Bridgman came to dine with us - and stayed until nearly 12 o'clock - talking continually in his amusing way. They go tomorrow direct to London - Clarence came back from Venice, enthusiastic, in time for dinner.

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Theodore, Nettie and I started out at 10 o'clock for the Brera - where we stayed quite 2 hours - this afternoon Nettie and I drove to the other end of everywhere, to the interesting little church of S. Eustorgio. We found it was a festa, and the little piazza in front of the church full of bazaars and peasants. As the especial picture we wanted to see was near the entrance, we got the wife of the Sacristan to open it for us - the picture is a lovely one of the Madonna enthroned by Borgognone. The 3 different entrances to the church were lined with collections of blind, lame and halt, and the poor things all begging. Then we drove along distance to S. Ambrogio, which I saw some years ago. Here there was a great service going on, and we could see nothing. So we came home, stopping on the way to buy some flowers. What a contrast to Florence - which was literally lined with flowers and roses. Here not a flower for sale on the streets, and hardly any shops to be found of them. The streets of Milan are now so intersected by tramways that driving is impossible and uncomfortable. We found Lord Fitzhardinge and his party here just on their way up from Egypt, and Dr. Bridgman came to dine with us - and stayed until nearly 12 o'clock - talking continually in his amusing way. They go tomorrow direct to London - Clarence came back from Venice, enthusiastic, in time for dinner.

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- Friday. April 30. + Friday. April 30. -

This morning we spent at the Poldo, Pozzoli, and Ambrosiana - delightful but tiring. In the afternoon Dr. Bridgman and Clarence and Nettie went to the Brera - afterwards to the Cathedral - and back in time for lunch. It was so pleasant in our sitting room with its big windows opening to the Park, and the sweet fragrant air pouring in, that after tea we walked over, and looked at the trees, and the swans and pheasants. A beautiful soft evening, with great masses of clouds, touched with rosy light, giving promise of rain tomorrow. We start for Turin at 11:30 tomorrow morning.

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This morning we spent at the Poldo Pozzoli, and Ambrosiana - delightful but tiring. In the afternoon Dr. Bridgman and Clarence and Nettie went to the Brera - afterwards to the Cathedral - and back in time for lunch. It was so pleasant in our sitting room with its big windows opening to the Park, and the sweet fragrant air pouring in, that after tea we walked over, and looked at the trees, and the swans and pheasants. A beautiful soft evening, with great masses of clouds, touched with rosy light, giving promise of rain tomorrow. We start for Turin at 11:30 tomorrow morning.

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- Saturday. May 1st. Turin. Grand Hotel de Turin. + Saturday. May 1st. Turin. Grand Hotel de Turin. -

We left Milan at 10:30 this morning and arrived here at 2 P.M. After lunch we went immediately to the Musée, to see the Egyptian things we had so long wanted to see. After climbing 2 huge stone staircases we came to the Egyptian department, and looked in for a moment, and then PAGE 125 went on to the next floor very foolishly to see the paintings. Not much that is interesting, though we were much interested in seeing the Bugiardini with the little St. John, almost the exact counterpart of the St. John in Theodore's so called Francia. The subject was the Madonna and Child, adored by the infant St. John and a lovely picture it was. Berenson had written Theodore a year or more ago, that his picture was a Bugiardini and not a Francia and the other day at Fiesole he had shown him the photograph of this Turin picture, and quite convinced him of Bugiardini as the artist. We lingered so long with these pictures that we were too late for the Egyptian gallery - and put our visit off for tomorrow morning. Then we drove about the town, with its handsome well shaded streets and modern houses, and picturesque river bank, and were quite delighted with it - but long before we had finished our drive, one of the horses being rather restive broke his traces, and we were forced to leave the carriage - Nettie and I taking a cab to the hotel, and Theodore and Clarence walking. We are having a dull evening - in our big gloomy rooms - Theodore is not well - seems to have taken cold, and has been sleeping ever since dinner.

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We left Milan at 10:30 this morning and arrived here at 2 P.M. After lunch we went immediately to the Musée, to see the Egyptian things we had so long wanted to see. After climbing 2 huge stone staircases we came to the Egyptian department, and looked in for a moment, and then went on to the next floor very foolishly to see the paintings. Not much that is interesting, though we were much interested in seeing the Bugiardini with the little St. John, almost the exact counterpart of the St. John in Theodore's so called Francia. The subject was the Madonna and Child, adored by the infant St. John and a lovely picture it was. Berenson had written Theodore a year or more ago, that his picture was a Bugiardini and not a Francia and the other day at Fiesole he had shown him the photograph of this Turin picture, and quite convinced him of Bugiardini as the artist. We lingered so long with these pictures that we were too late for the Egyptian gallery - and put our visit off for tomorrow morning. Then we drove about the town, with its handsome well shaded streets and modern houses, and picturesque river bank, and were quite delighted with it - but long before we had finished our drive, one of the horses being rather restive broke his traces, and we were forced to leave the carriage - Nettie and I taking a cab to the hotel, and Theodore and Clarence walking. We are having a dull evening - in our big gloomy rooms - Theodore is not well - seems to have taken cold, and has been sleeping ever since dinner.

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- Monday, May 3d. Hotel Westminster - Paris. + Monday, May 3d. Hotel Westminster - Paris. -

Yesterday morning Theodore seemed much better, but not well enough to venture upon a visit to stony, cold galleries. So Nettie and I went off at 10 o'clock for a morning in the Egyptian department. What was our dismay and disgust at finding the Museum did not open until 1 o'clock - PAGE 126 and we starting for Paris at 2:10! So we ordered lunch at 12:30 and immediately afterwards started again for the Musée, intending to drive from there in half an hour to the station, meeting the rest there. On reaching the gallery we deposited our parasols with the custodian and quickly toiled up those great staircases, only to find the doors of the Egyptian department closed! No words could describe our indignation and dismay - we tried bribery - demanded the director, who was not there of course, and baffled and angry we had to return to our hotel - wishing we had gone as usual to Paris by the Basle and Lucerne route. We got away from Turin at 2:30 and found 2 very comfortable compartments reserved for us in the sleeping car - and the afternoon proved delightful. The Scenery was beautiful - grand with splendid effects - I think I never enjoyed a railway ride so much. As with the help of 2 powerful engines we climbed the Mt. Cenis mountain route, it was charming - green smiling plains - snow tipped mountains - streams of rushing, tumbling water pouring down the mountains sides - and every where fascinating Alpine plants growing - such as we try to cultivate in our rock gardens at home, and generally fail in doing. The night was very comfortable - our beds clean - and by 9 o'clock we were established in our familiar apartments here, which we have already occupied twice before. Paris looks quiet. Few Americans here, it is said.

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Yesterday morning Theodore seemed much better, but not well enough to venture upon a visit to stony, cold galleries. So Nettie and I went off at 10 o'clock for a morning in the Egyptian department. What was our dismay and disgust at finding the Museum did not open until 1 o'clock - and we starting for Paris at 2:10! So we ordered lunch at 12:30 and immediately afterwards started again for the Musée, intending to drive from there in half an hour to the station, meeting the rest there. On reaching the gallery we deposited our parasols with the custodian and quickly toiled up those great staircases, only to find the doors of the Egyptian department closed! No words could describe our indignation and dismay - we tried bribery - demanded the director, who was not there of course, and baffled and angry we had to return to our hotel - wishing we had gone as usual to Paris by the Basle and Lucerne route. We got away from Turin at 2:30 and found 2 very comfortable compartments reserved for us in the sleeping car - and the afternoon proved delightful. The Scenery was beautiful - grand with splendid effects - I think I never enjoyed a railway ride so much. As with the help of 2 powerful engines we climbed the Mt. Cenis mountain route, it was charming - green smiling plains - snow tipped mountains - streams of rushing, tumbling water pouring down the mountains sides - and every where fascinating Alpine plants growing - such as we try to cultivate in our rock gardens at home, and generally fail in doing. The night was very comfortable - our beds clean - and by 9 o'clock we were established in our familiar apartments here, which we have already occupied twice before. Paris looks quiet. Few Americans here, it is said.

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- Tuesday, May 4. + Tuesday, May 4. -

This morning I drove with Theodore away off to the Ave-de la Republique to Calmonts to buy a pair of field glasses for Fuli, and another PAGE 127 for Clarence. It was really cold, with piercing winds - and I was very uncomfortable. We stopped at the Hotel de France at Choiseul to see Mrs. Taylor and Florence - and found them both with bad colds, and made them promise to come and dine this evening. They have just gone home.

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This morning I drove with Theodore away off to the Ave-de la Republique to Calmonts to buy a pair of field glasses for Fuli, and another for Clarence. It was really cold, with piercing winds - and I was very uncomfortable. We stopped at the Hotel de France at Choiseul to see Mrs. Taylor and Florence - and found them both with bad colds, and made them promise to come and dine this evening. They have just gone home.

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- Wednesday. May 5. + Wednesday. May 5. -

A very dreadful thing happened here yesterday - about 4 o'clock in the afternoon: a charity Bazaar was being held in a large building built and often used for such purposes in the Rue Jean Gonjou near the Palais de l'Industrie. At the time it was crowded with people representing the very best element in French society. The Duchesse d'Alençon sister of the Queen of Austria being at the head of it. Suddenly flames broke out, in an instant the light painted wooden roof was in flames, and within 20 minutes the whole thing with nearly 200 of the audience, who did not succeed in in escaping, were all a charred and smoking mass. People escaped without clothing, and shoes. The crowd of waiting carriages did not receive half of their occupants - almost before help could be rendered the thing was over - the Duchesse d'Alençon was burned at her stall, and no remnant of her has been discovered. The streets are almost silent - a pall over the whole city - one thinks, talks, and sees nothing else. Never was a catastrophe so sudden - so complete - so full of horrible details. The weather is bad - cold - rain and even a little snow. PAGE 128

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A very dreadful thing happened here yesterday - about 4 o'clock in the afternoon: a charity Bazaar was being held in a large building built and often used for such purposes in the Rue Jean Gonjou near the Palais de l'Industrie. At the time it was crowded with people representing the very best element in French society. The Duchesse d'Alençon sister of the Queen of Austria being at the head of it. Suddenly flames broke out, in an instant the light painted wooden roof was in flames, and within 20 minutes the whole thing with nearly 200 of the audience, who did not succeed in escaping, were all a charred and smoking mass. People escaped without clothing, and shoes. The crowd of waiting carriages did not receive half of their occupants - almost before help could be rendered the thing was over - the Duchesse d'Alençon was burned at her stall, and no remnant of her has been discovered. The streets are almost silent - a pall over the whole city - one thinks, talks, and sees nothing else. Never was a catastrophe so sudden - so complete - so full of horrible details. The weather is bad - cold - rain and even a little snow.

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- Thursday. May 6. + Thursday. May 6. -

We have plunged into the travail of dress making and shopping which seems almost heartless in this stunned and bereaved city. The daily details of this horrible accident grow worse and more harrowing. The whole civilized world stands aghast. The weather of yesterday repeats itself today, - rain, snow, and cold, cold winds. I am a little wretched - and so is Theodore. Terry Boal arrived today from Thonon - with his wife - having left the baby with his Aunt Sara and Annie at their home in Thonon. They are on their way to America - and why they have left the baby, with the mothers heart rent with grief, no one can say - their plans seem very vague and uncertain.

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We have plunged into the travail of dress making and shopping which seems almost heartless in this stunned and bereaved city. The daily details of this horrible accident grow worse and more harrowing. The whole civilized world stands aghast. The weather of yesterday repeats itself today, - rain, snow, and cold, cold winds. I am a little wretched - and so is Theodore. Terry Boal arrived today from Thonon - with his wife - having left the baby with his Aunt Sara and Annie at their home in Thonon. They are on their way to America - and why they have left the baby, with the mothers heart rent with grief, no one can say - their plans seem very vague and uncertain.

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- Friday. May 7. + Friday. May 7. -

This is Theodore's birthday - his 58 birthday. We made a little festa this afternoon, and asked Mrs. Taylor and Florence to tea, and Terry and Mathilde were here. A cold, rainy day - I spent most of the morning in Dr. Bull's office, having my eyes examined - and this afternoon Nettie and I tried to accomplish something, but were driven home by the wind and rain. Florence Talylor came to dinner, and has gone to the Opera with Theodore, Nettie and Clarence, to hear Lohengrin. The theatres have been closed for 2 days, on account of the dreadful catastrophe. This morning, I could hardly drive to the Flower market at the Madeline, on account of the carriages ranged around it, and the front draped in black. This is the day of most of the enterrements - some of the churches are dressed in white, marking the funerals of the young, the others in black. PAGE 129

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This is Theodore's birthday - his 58 birthday. We made a little festa this afternoon, and asked Mrs. Taylor and Florence to tea, and Terry and Mathilde were here. A cold, rainy day - I spent most of the morning in Dr. Bull's office, having my eyes examined - and this afternoon Nettie and I tried to accomplish something, but were driven home by the wind and rain. Florence Talylor came to dinner, and has gone to the Opera with Theodore, Nettie and Clarence, to hear Lohengrin. The theatres have been closed for 2 days, on account of the dreadful catastrophe. This morning, I could hardly drive to the Flower market at the Madeline, on account of the carriages ranged around it, and the front draped in black. This is the day of most of the enterrements - some of the churches are dressed in white, marking the funerals of the young, the others in black.

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- Fourth Sunday after Easter. May 16. + Fourth Sunday after Easter. May 16. -

A week or more has gone by, with very little to chronicle, except continued bad and gloomy weather and constant shopping and sight seeing and wrestling with Paris dressmakers and milliners. It has seemed as if the weather were in mourning with the city. The Taylors dined with us last night and said goodbye and Terry and Mathilde come to dine tonight. We are off tomorrow for London, and very glad we all are. We are very much delighted these last days because Theodore has secured the beautiful Chigi Madonna of Botticelli for which he has been bargaining since before we left Rome. He has also stumbled upon a charmingly interesting painting of a Madonna and Child by that rare old Venetian painter the father of the Venetian school, Bartolemmeo Vivarini. He saw it a few days ago at Durand-Ruel's rooms - who had bought it with two or three old Italian daubs at an auction or sale from an old Paris family - he paid 400 dollars for it and evidently did not know its value. It was in a wretched condition - the panel warped and worm eaten. Theodore wanted it from the first and took me and Nettie to see it - we were charmed. Nettie pronounced it excellent and when a day or two after Theodore heard that the Louvre people were looking at it, he decided to buy it and have it transferred to canvas. He paid 1600 dollars for it. The Madonna is seated with the child on her knee - behind her a red curtain hung on a black cord, a gold background, beautifully dulled and reddened by time - signed - PAGE 130

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A week or more has gone by, with very little to chronicle, except continued bad and gloomy weather and constant shopping and sight seeing and wrestling with Paris dressmakers and milliners. It has seemed as if the weather were in mourning with the city. The Taylors dined with us last night and said goodbye and Terry and Mathilde come to dine tonight. We are off tomorrow for London, and very glad we all are. We are very much delighted these last days because Theodore has secured the beautiful Chigi Madonna of Botticelli for which he has been bargaining since before we left Rome. He has also stumbled upon a charmingly interesting painting of a Madonna and Child by that rare old Venetian painter the father of the Venetian school, Bartolemmeo Vivarini. He saw it a few days ago at Durand-Ruel's rooms - who had bought it with two or three old Italian daubs at an auction or sale from an old Paris family - he paid 400 dollars for it and evidently did not know its value. It was in a wretched condition - the panel warped and worm eaten. Theodore wanted it from the first and took me and Nettie to see it - we were charmed. Nettie pronounced it excellent and when a day or two after Theodore heard that the Louvre people were looking at it, he decided to buy it and have it transferred to canvas. He paid 1600 dollars for it. The Madonna is seated with the child on her knee - behind her a red curtain hung on a black cord, a gold background, beautifully dulled and reddened by time - signed -

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- London - Hotel Bristol.Friday - May 21. + London - Hotel Bristol.Friday - May 21. -

We came over from Paris last Monday the 17th - had a good but cold crossing - but a comfortable cabin, in which Nettie and I stretched ourselves out, and slept almost the whole way over. We have a gorgeous appartment here, on the first floor. London is very empty of Americans. Everyone is I suppose waiting for the Queen's 60th anniversary of her reign - it will be a great Jubilee - decorations and scaffoldings for seats are going up everywhere. The weather has been very good ever since our arrival - we have been busy shopping for the house and the dahabeah - seeing pictures and driving. Nettie and I go out to Sanderstead Court tomorrow to stay over Sunday with the Wallaces - and Theodore and Clarence go to Oxford to stay over Sunday.

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We came over from Paris last Monday the 17th - had a good but cold crossing - but a comfortable cabin, in which Nettie and I stretched ourselves out, and slept almost the whole way over. We have a gorgeous appartment here, on the first floor. London is very empty of Americans. Everyone is I suppose waiting for the Queen's 60th anniversary of her reign - it will be a great Jubilee - decorations and scaffoldings for seats are going up everywhere. The weather has been very good ever since our arrival - we have been busy shopping for the house and the dahabeah - seeing pictures and driving. Nettie and I go out to Sanderstead Court tomorrow to stay over Sunday with the Wallaces - and Theodore and Clarence go to Oxford to stay over Sunday.

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- Monday. May 24. + Monday. May 24. -

Nettie and I came back from Sanderstead Court this morning, where we had gone on Saturday to pay a visit to those dear Wallaces. The weather was bright - but a cold north east wind blowing - so that it was a great contrast to our last visit there. There was a pleasant house party - especially an interesting old woman, Miss Ogle of Northumberland and we talked and walked about the park, and the terrace, and investigated the gardens - Nettie sang to them in the evenings, to their great delight. There is such comfort and luxury in these English country houses. Gaspard Farrar came to dinner tonight. PAGE 131 Wednesday evening. May 26. We made our 3d visit to the National Gallery this morning - weather cold and threatening. We have found driving, even in the park, disagreeable. Busy shopping and seeing things. Last evening we dined at Sir William Farrars - and had a charming evening. Sir William in spite of his age and infirmities very interesting and agreeable. To the play this evening: "My Friend the Prince". Very laughable.

+

Nettie and I came back from Sanderstead Court this morning, where we had gone on Saturday to pay a visit to those dear Wallaces. The weather was bright - but a cold north east wind blowing - so that it was a great contrast to our last visit there. There was a pleasant house party - especially an interesting old woman, Miss Ogle of Northumberland and we talked and walked about the park, and the terrace, and investigated the gardens - Nettie sang to them in the evenings, to their great delight. There is such comfort and luxury in these English country houses. Gaspard Farrar came to dinner tonight. Wednesday evening. May 26. We made our 3d visit to the National Gallery this morning - weather cold and threatening. We have found driving, even in the park, disagreeable. Busy shopping and seeing things. Last evening we dined at Sir William Farrars - and had a charming evening. Sir William in spite of his age and infirmities very interesting and agreeable. To the play this evening: "My Friend the Prince". Very laughable.

-
+
- Sunday - after Ascension. May 30. + Sunday - after Ascension. May 30. -

We spent a delightful day on Thursday. Going out to Sevenoaks where we had lunch at the "Royal Crown" and then drove to Knole - and saw that wonderful house with its picturesque courts and rooms and countless treasurers. Theodore and I were fascinated with the beautiful Persian rugs, which are said to have been in the house since the time of Queen Elizabeth. Then we walked and drove about the great park with its renowned beeches, until it was time to take the train back to London. Fielding was with us. On Friday, Theodore and Clarence went to Sanderstead Court to lunch - the day cold and stormy. Nettie and I went to the National Gallery, and took a drive and in the evening we all went to dine with Fielding and his sister Lady Winifride Cary-Elwes and such a pleasant evening, as they are musical, and Nettie sang a great deal - and it was after 12 o'clock when we came home. On Saturday Fielding and Mr. Cary-Elwes came early, and Nettie sang the PAGE 132 whole morning - they stayed to lunch, and most of the afternoon. Rain all day - Theodore went out to Hothorpe to stay until Monday. This morning, the weather being fairly pleasant, we decided, Nettie, Clarence and I, that we would go to Hampton Court - and ordered a carriage to be ready at 11 o'clock. Waited until half past, when the porter sent word he had not been able to get a carriage, having tried 3 stables. So very wrathfully we gave up Hampton Court, and ordered a hansom for the National Gallery - which we found closed, the policeman saying it was only open on Sunday from 2 to 6. Then we decided to go to Westminster Abbey, where we found the congregation just dispersing, and were told the Abbey was closed on Sunday between services. There was nothing then to do but come home and have lunch and start for Kno Gardens - for which we had ordered a carriage. We spent 2 delightful hours walking about there - and just after we got home, after 6 o'clock, Mrs. Davis, and Terry Boal and Mathilde arrived from Paris.

+

We spent a delightful day on Thursday. Going out to Sevenoaks where we had lunch at the "Royal Crown" and then drove to Knole - and saw that wonderful house with its picturesque courts and rooms and countless treasurers. Theodore and I were fascinated with the beautiful Persian rugs, which are said to have been in the house since the time of Queen Elizabeth. Then we walked and drove about the great park with its renowned beeches, until it was time to take the train back to London. Fielding was with us. On Friday, Theodore and Clarence went to Sanderstead Court to lunch - the day cold and stormy. Nettie and I went to the National Gallery, and took a drive and in the evening we all went to dine with Fielding and his sister Lady Winifride Cary-Elwes and such a pleasant evening, as they are musical, and Nettie sang a great deal - and it was after 12 o'clock when we came home. On Saturday Fielding and Mr. Cary-Elwes came early, and Nettie sang the whole morning - they stayed to lunch, and most of the afternoon. Rain all day - Theodore went out to Hothorpe to stay until Monday. This morning, the weather being fairly pleasant, we decided, Nettie, Clarence and I, that we would go to Hampton Court - and ordered a carriage to be ready at 11 o'clock. Waited until half past, when the porter sent word he had not been able to get a carriage, having tried 3 stables. So very wrathfully we gave up Hampton Court, and ordered a hansom for the National Gallery - which we found closed, the policeman saying it was only open on Sunday from 2 to 6. Then we decided to go to Westminster Abbey, where we found the congregation just dispersing, and were told the Abbey was closed on Sunday between services. There was nothing then to do but come home and have lunch and start for Kno Gardens - for which we had ordered a carriage. We spent 2 delightful hours walking about there - and just after we got home, after 6 o'clock, Mrs. Davis, and Terry Boal and Mathilde arrived from Paris.

-
+
- Tuesday evening. June 1st. + Tuesday evening. June 1st. -

Nettie departed this morning for Florence. Afterwards Theodore and I went to the stores, and at the top of the first staircase, I met Mrs. Sandwith, just arrived from Cairo, and as she turned away, I saw Theodore speaking to Mr. Somers-Clarke who said he left Cairo a few days since, the thermometer had been 106 in the shade - and a damp heat at that. His boat is lying next the Beduin, at Shubron's yards. We left cards this afternoon on various friends - and settled our final arrangements - packing etc. Mrs. Davis, Clarence, Terry Boal and Mathilde all took an early PAGE 133 dinner, and departed for the Military Tournament - and at this hour 11:30 are not yet home. Lady Winifride and Mr. Cary-Elwes, Lady Agnes and Mr. de Trafford, and Mr. Fielding came to dinner with Theodore, and me at 8 o'clock, and we had a charming, jolly evening. Delightful people. They have just gone. We are off tomorrow at noon for Liverpool and will sail about 5 in the afternoon. 11

+

Nettie departed this morning for Florence. Afterwards Theodore and I went to the stores, and at the top of the first staircase, I met Mrs. Sandwith, just arrived from Cairo, and as she turned away, I saw Theodore speaking to Mr. Somers-Clarke who said he left Cairo a few days since, the thermometer had been 106 in the shade - and a damp heat at that. His boat is lying next the Beduin, at Shubron's yards. We left cards this afternoon on various friends - and settled our final arrangements - packing etc. Mrs. Davis, Clarence, Terry Boal and Mathilde all took an early dinner, and departed for the Military Tournament - and at this hour 11:30 are not yet home. Lady Winifride and Mr. Cary-Elwes, Lady Agnes and Mr. de Trafford, and Mr. Fielding came to dinner with Theodore, and me at 8 o'clock, and we had a charming, jolly evening. Delightful people. They have just gone. We are off tomorrow at noon for Liverpool and will sail about 5 in the afternoon. 11

From 82172f30b96d463c5e5a21471f96c6a4e1277b92 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: ionahillman Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2022 19:49:24 -0800 Subject: [PATCH 09/15] Update volume4.xml --- diary-volumes/volume4.xml | 72 +++++++++++++++++++-------------------- 1 file changed, 36 insertions(+), 36 deletions(-) diff --git a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml index 68890193b..fc7eb3645 100644 --- a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml +++ b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml @@ -326,7 +326,7 @@ Quinguagesima Sunday. Feb. 28. -

We had thought of getting off today, but there was no wind, and Mr. Baldwin wants us to wait for him tomorrow. I did not leave the boat, in the afternoon the wind very high. Mrs. Constantine Read and her cousin made us a visit, and Mr. Shephard and his sister of the Hyksos also came. He, the Engineer of the new railroad. Mohammed Mohassib also came.

+

We had thought of getting off today, but there was no wind, and Mr. Baldwin wants us to wait for him tomorrow. I did not leave the boat, in the afternoon the wind very high. Mrs. Constantine Read and her cousin made us a visit, and Mr. Shephard and his sister of the Hyksos also came. He, the Engineer of the new railroad. Mohammed Mohassib also came.

@@ -344,7 +344,7 @@ Wednesday. March 3. -

This is Ash Wednesday - and the last of the 30 days of Ramadan - for which we are truly thankful - for Rais Fuli - 2 Rais Mattar - Moomond the big Mohammed, and Baken the little sailor, all keep it rigourously. They represent the very pick of the crew - and things will now be more cheerful. This had been a distracting day. Such a mix as we, the Osiris, the Ammon-Ra, the Columbia and several large working boats have been in most of the day. I have never known such an experience - the wind has been from the north most of the time. Our crew have worked splendidly at their oars, and beaten all the others out and out. It was a splendid triumph. The gale increased and at 5 o'clock we tied up, followed by all the others - and we are strung along the bank, within 2 or 3 miles of Kasr-el Sayd. After we landed we went to visit the Baldwins. We have made 25 miles - and are rolling a little uneasily in the wind.

+

This is Ash Wednesday - and the last of the 30 days of Ramadan - for which we are truly thankful - for Rais Fuli - 2 Rais Mattar - Moomond the big Mohammed, and Baken the little sailor, all keep it rigourously. They represent the very pick of the crew - and things will now be more cheerful. This had been a distracting day. Such a mix as we, the Osiris, the Ammon-Ra, the Columbia and several large working boats have been in most of the day. I have never known such an experience - the wind has been from the north most of the time. Our crew have worked splendidly at their oars, and beaten all the others out and out. It was a splendid triumph. The gale increased and at 5 o'clock we tied up, followed by all the others - and we are strung along the bank, within 2 or 3 miles of Kasr-el Sayd. After we landed we went to visit the Baldwins. We have made 25 miles - and are rolling a little uneasily in the wind.

@@ -362,7 +362,7 @@ Saturday. March 6. -

Our men began rowing at 1 o'clock this morning - reached Balliana at 10:30 and started immediately for Abydos. That pleasant ride of 7 miles out and 7 back, never seemed so tiresome - for the very worst donkeys of all the notorious bad donkeys of Abydos or rather Balliana fell to our lot. The day was tremendously hot - the natives specially tormenting. I arrived at the temple more dead than alive - and by 3:30 we were in our saddles again - and I came home resolving never to do that expedition again. The Ammon-Ra and Osiris did not stop - but the ChensuChonsu (English) and the Columbia (American Jews) did, and went to the Temple. We are having the most beautiful little new moon imaginable. For the first two nights it had the resplendent beams almost within its bow. The last winter we were here on the river we used constantly to see the Zodiacal lights - but I have not seen it this time. I saw in the Abydos fields today, the most beautiful light vivid green birds - large as our robin, but more slender and elegant.

+

Our men began rowing at 1 o'clock this morning - reached Balliana at 10:30 and started immediately for Abydos. That pleasant ride of 7 miles out and 7 back, never seemed so tiresome - for the very worst donkeys of all the notorious bad donkeys of Abydos or rather Balliana fell to our lot. The day was tremendously hot - the natives specially tormenting. I arrived at the temple more dead than alive - and by 3:30 we were in our saddles again - and I came home resolving never to do that expedition again. The Ammon-Ra and Osiris did not stop - but the ChensuChonsu (English) and the Columbia (American Jews) did, and went to the Temple. We are having the most beautiful little new moon imaginable. For the first two nights it had the resplendent beams almost within its bow. The last winter we were here on the river we used constantly to see the Zodiacal lights - but I have not seen it this time. I saw in the Abydos fields today, the most beautiful light vivid green birds - large as our robin, but more slender and elegant.

@@ -398,7 +398,7 @@ Friday. March 12. -

Got away at 6 o'clock and rowed and floated until about 10 - when the wind grew into such a sudden gale, we pulled with difficulty to the shore - where some work boats had taken refuge. Soon after the Nephtys, with the Duke of Hamilton, and a tug came down the river, and came to the shore just below us. 3 miles today.

+

Got away at 6 o'clock and rowed and floated until about 10 - when the wind grew into such a sudden gale, we pulled with difficulty to the shore - where some work boats had taken refuge. Soon after the Nephtys, with the Duke of Hamilton, and a tug came down the river, and came to the shore just below us. 3 miles today.

@@ -452,7 +452,7 @@ Third Sunday in Lent. March 21st. -

An early start in a good wind brought us along so surprisingly that we were near Bedrascheen at 10:30, having discovered some minutes before that beautiful view of the dome and slender minarets of Mohammed Ali - shining in the sun above the thick haze, looking like some enchanted palace. The sailing was so fine, and the Beduin showing her paces so splendidly, that we suddenly decided we would not stop for the visit to Sakkarah, and kept on for the Museum landing at Ghizeh. The sky being full of great clouds, very unlike Egypt - all the morning the blue sky making such delightful contrasts with their great swelling white domes, and the pyramids of Lisht, Dashur, and Sakkarah showing splendidly - until quite in a moment the clouds grew dirty and the atmosphere thick, the wind increased, and we were blown to the bank, with great effort escaping collision with the rocky foundation of a big sakiyeh on the top of which as usual a blindfolded bullock was walking round and round his wheel. Here we have been ever since, the wind growing into a gale, and the opposite shore almost hidden by the clouds of sand blowing across its sandy waste. We are quite sheltered here from it, though we get enough of it as the atmosphere is so charged with it and when in the afternoon it began softly to rain, the drops seemed like mud, and made a fine mess of our clean windows. The waves beat so high and roughly on the lee shore against which we lay, that the two feluccas, were in danger, and our men worked almost stripped, for 2 hours before they were bailed and lifted to a place of safety. In my stern room the uproar was tremendous - Theodore and Clarence went for a walk, but were driven home by the wind and rain, and there was a great fracas on deck, getting everything under canvass, safe from the wet. The men are always so funny with a rain - like children with a snow storm, and never seem quite to know what to do - 67 miles to 1:30 today. At 11 o'clock this evening, I saw two or three stars showing.

+

An early start in a good wind brought us along so surprisingly that we were near Bedrascheen at 10:30, having discovered some minutes before that beautiful view of the dome and slender minarets of Mohammed Ali - shining in the sun above the thick haze, looking like some enchanted palace. The sailing was so fine, and the Beduin showing her paces so splendidly, that we suddenly decided we would not stop for the visit to Sakkarah, and kept on for the Museum landing at Ghizeh. The sky being full of great clouds, very unlike Egypt - all the morning the blue sky making such delightful contrasts with their great swelling white domes, and the pyramids of Lisht, Dashur, and Sakkarah showing splendidly - until quite in a moment the clouds grew dirty and the atmosphere thick, the wind increased, and we were blown to the bank, with great effort escaping collision with the rocky foundation of a big sakiyeh on the top of which as usual a blindfolded bullock was walking round and round his wheel. Here we have been ever since, the wind growing into a gale, and the opposite shore almost hidden by the clouds of sand blowing across its sandy waste. We are quite sheltered here from it, though we get enough of it as the atmosphere is so charged with it and when in the afternoon it began softly to rain, the drops seemed like mud, and made a fine mess of our clean windows. The waves beat so high and roughly on the lee shore against which we lay, that the two feluccas, were in danger, and our men worked almost stripped, for 2 hours before they were bailed and lifted to a place of safety. In my stern room the uproar was tremendous - Theodore and Clarence went for a walk, but were driven home by the wind and rain, and there was a great fracas on deck, getting everything under canvass, safe from the wet. The men are always so funny with a rain - like children with a snow storm, and never seem quite to know what to do - 67 miles to 1:30 today. At 11 o'clock this evening, I saw two or three stars showing.

@@ -464,13 +464,13 @@ Tuesday. March 23. -

We made the Museum landing at Ghizeh this morning early - and fortunately we were to have accomplished it - for the wind has increased in violence - it has been a gale all day - and it is cold and disagreeable - a bad March day for any part of the world. We spent a pleasant morning however at the Museum - and had it all to ourselves. Theodore and Clarence have been into Cairo, and report it dismal.

+

We made the Museum landing at Ghizeh this morning early - and fortunately we were to have accomplished it - for the wind has increased in violence - it has been a gale all day - and it is cold and disagreeable - a bad March day for any part of the world. We spent a pleasant morning however at the Museum - and had it all to ourselves. Theodore and Clarence have been into Cairo, and report it dismal.

Wednesday. March 24. -

A gale all day - with rain now and then. Morning at the Museum - Salah came out to see us.

+

A gale all day - with rain now and then. Morning at the Museum - Salah came out to see us.

@@ -482,11 +482,11 @@ Friday. March 26. -

Mrs. Taylor and Florence came this morning and made a visit, and were very pleasant - putting us en rapport with everything in and about Cairo - asking us to dine on Saturday with them at the Gesireh to meet Sir John Scott, who wants to know Theodore, and whom Theodore is very keen to meet. Sir John is Judicial Advisor to the Khedive, and did excellent work in India before coming here to help straighten out Egyptian affairs. In the afternoon went to the races - which were rather slow - met Mrs. Hamilton Lang and her daughter - saw Gen. Kitchener, the Sirdâr and other notables.

+

Mrs. Taylor and Florence came this morning and made a visit, and were very pleasant - putting us en rapport with everything in and about Cairo - asking us to dine on Saturday with them at the Gesireh to meet Sir John Scott, who wants to know Theodore, and whom Theodore is very keen to meet. Sir John is Judicial Advisor to the Khedive, and did excellent work in India before coming here to help straighten out Egyptian affairs. In the afternoon went to the races - which were rather slow - met Mrs. Hamilton Lang and her daughter - saw Gen. Kitchener, the Sirdâr and other notables.

- Fourth Sunday in Lent. March 28. + Fourth Sunday in Lent. March 28.

I was ill all day yesterday, and could not go to dinner with Mrs. Taylor - which was reported very pleasant. This afternoon Dr. and Mrs. Sandwith came to tea - and Mrs. Taylor and Florence, and her fiancé Mr. Morice to dine. We had a nice evening.

@@ -494,19 +494,19 @@ Tuesday. March 30. Cairo. -

We came over to Shepheards this afternoon - and are in the corner room we had 5 years ago, when Fielding was with us. Then it was cold and we had a fire in the big sitting room. Now it is so hot, that we have all the windows open at night and shut during the day to keep out the heat. But it is very noisy and smelly. I do not like it, although my balcony opens on the pretty garden. Hotel quite empty - very tired from yesterday - packing and arranging.

+

We came over to Shepheards this afternoon - and are in the corner room we had 5 years ago, when Fielding was with us. Then it was cold and we had a fire in the big sitting room. Now it is so hot, that we have all the windows open at night and shut during the day to keep out the heat. But it is very noisy and smelly. I do not like it, although my balcony opens on the pretty garden. Hotel quite empty - very tired from yesterday - packing and arranging.

Wednesday, March 31. -

Over at the boat which still lies at Ghizeh - and where our Rais intends to stay all summer because it is so much cooler. Delightful drive in the afternoon.

+

Over at the boat which still lies at Ghizeh - and where our Rais intends to stay all summer because it is so much cooler. Delightful drive in the afternoon.

Thursday, April 1st. -

Theodore and Clarence went to the Courts of Justice this morning with Sir John Scott andMr. Morice, and were much interested. Abdul came back from the hospital, very weak and thin, but almost well. A bothersome time for days getting all the carpets, curtains, stuffs, etc. of the boat safely packed away from dangers of moths and vermin. The boat reeks with the smell of Naphthaline and Camphor. The poor Beduin, so changed - closed and dark, with her thick brown summer awnings enshrouding her - all the men gone but Rais Fuli, and Arbuk, the nice little crew cook, who stays with the Captain - and Abdul, who will live with Fuli on the boat, and look after the inside cleaning - as he reads and writes English, it will be very convenient for us - and Rais Fuli is immensely glad to have him. The Taylors sailed for Marseilles today in the Clyde.

+

Theodore and Clarence went to the Courts of Justice this morning with Sir John Scott andMr. Morice, and were much interested. Abdul came back from the hospital, very weak and thin, but almost well. A bothersome time for days getting all the carpets, curtains, stuffs, etc. of the boat safely packed away from dangers of moths and vermin. The boat reeks with the smell of Naphthaline and Camphor. The poor Beduin, so changed - closed and dark, with her thick brown summer awnings enshrouding her - all the men gone but Rais Fuli, and Arbuk, the nice little crew cook, who stays with the Captain - and Abdul, who will live with Fuli on the boat, and look after the inside cleaning - as he reads and writes English, it will be very convenient for us - and Rais Fuli is immensely glad to have him. The Taylors sailed for Marseilles today in the Clyde.

@@ -524,115 +524,115 @@ Hotel Grande Bretagne. Florence. April 22. -

We got away from Rome Tuesday the 20th at 9 o'clock in the morning - I was glad to leave - for Mary had taken cold, and we were all under the weather. On Easter Sunday, I was able to drive out 7 miles on the Campagna to the Villa Livia, where we met by invitation Mrs. Elliott, who had asked some of her friends to take tea with us there. Mrs. Stillman, the once favorite beauty was there - Mr. Larz Anderson - the young Swedish American sculptor Anderson, whose mother lives in Newport was there and others. It was not quite my idea of enjoyment - sitting at 5 o'clock P.M. on rugs on the ground at the top of a windy hill - but Mrs. Elliott's intention was good and kind. The next morning, Theodore, Mary and I went to St. Peters and saw the lovely Melozzo angels and frescoes in the inner sacristy - then drove to the Colosseum and along the Via S. Gregorio, the morning being quite warm and beautiful. Theodore went to lunch with the Elliotts, and in the afternoon Mary and I drove to the Villa Doria Pamphilia, the lovely grounds of which were full of people, it being Easter Monday and a holiday. But the weather had changed and the wind was cold - so we drove to the Piazzo Rusticucci to say goodbye to Mrs. Elliott and had a pleasant visit - meeting for the first time Mr. Elliott - a handsome, rather invalid looking man, whom I liked - especially when he took me on to his roof garden which he cultivates entirely himself, and which has charming views of S. Pietro and the whole quarter. It was gay with vines and climbing roses and flowers and quite fascinating. Clarence met us there, and after tea we all drove home. Mrs. Elliott and her cousin Miss Von Ralem having dined with us the night before. We had a pleasant ride to Florence, found Nettie waiting for us, and who soon went off with Mary. We have pleasant rooms here overlooking the Arno and Ponto Vecchio, and we, that is Theodore and I, have decided to stay here and not go to Venice - Clarence will go alone.

+

We got away from Rome Tuesday the 20th at 9 o'clock in the morning - I was glad to leave - for Mary had taken cold, and we were all under the weather. On Easter Sunday, I was able to drive out 7 miles on the Campagna to the Villa Livia, where we met by invitation Mrs. Elliott, who had asked some of her friends to take tea with us there. Mrs. Stillman, the once favorite beauty was there - Mr. Larz Anderson - the young Swedish American sculptor Anderson, whose mother lives in Newport was there and others. It was not quite my idea of enjoyment - sitting at 5 o'clock P.M. on rugs on the ground at the top of a windy hill - but Mrs. Elliott's intention was good and kind. The next morning, Theodore, Mary and I went to St. Peters and saw the lovely Melozzo angels and frescoes in the inner sacristy - then drove to the Colosseum and along the Via S. Gregorio, the morning being quite warm and beautiful. Theodore went to lunch with the Elliotts, and in the afternoon Mary and I drove to the Villa Doria Pamphilia, the lovely grounds of which were full of people, it being Easter Monday and a holiday. But the weather had changed and the wind was cold - so we drove to the Piazzo Rusticucci to say goodbye to Mrs. Elliott and had a pleasant visit - meeting for the first time Mr. Elliott - a handsome, rather invalid looking man, whom I liked - especially when he took me on to his roof garden which he cultivates entirely himself, and which has charming views of S. Pietro and the whole quarter. It was gay with vines and climbing roses and flowers and quite fascinating. Clarence met us there, and after tea we all drove home. Mrs. Elliott and her cousin Miss Von Ralem having dined with us the night before. We had a pleasant ride to Florence, found Nettie waiting for us, and who soon went off with Mary. We have pleasant rooms here overlooking the Arno and Ponto Vecchio, and we, that is Theodore and I, have decided to stay here and not go to Venice - Clarence will go alone.

April 24. Saturday. -

We are having a rainy day - Nettie and I however went for a little shopping this morning - before the rain began - the wind was blowing and the dust flying however. We brought up at Pelotti's where we met Theodore, and looked at many enticing things. Mr. Berenson came to lunch - and after Lieutenant Niblock called - home all the afternoon the rain pouring. Theodore still has a troublesome cold, and I have quite mended. Yesterday morning, Nettie, Theodore and I drove a long time in the lovely Cascine. In the afternoon a visit to the Bardini palace with its fascinating collection, and then a visit to Lizzie - Mary and Clarence have been busy each day doing Florence. This afternoon Clarence went off alone to Venice, charged with the precious things and the mission to the Armenian convent of St. Lazarre. We have done the Uffizzi and Academia, and had a lovely afternoon at San Miniato. Wednesday evening Mrs. Bend and her daughters dined with us, and on Thursday Mrs. Costellar and Berenson.

+

We are having a rainy day - Nettie and I however went for a little shopping this morning - before the rain began - the wind was blowing and the dust flying however. We brought up at Pelotti's where we met Theodore, and looked at many enticing things. Mr. Berenson came to lunch - and after Lieutenant Niblock called - home all the afternoon the rain pouring. Theodore still has a troublesome cold, and I have quite mended. Yesterday morning, Nettie, Theodore and I drove a long time in the lovely Cascine. In the afternoon a visit to the Bardini palace with its fascinating collection, and then a visit to Lizzie - Mary and Clarence have been busy each day doing Florence. This afternoon Clarence went off alone to Venice, charged with the precious things and the mission to the Armenian convent of St. Lazarre. We have done the Uffizzi and Academia, and had a lovely afternoon at San Miniato. Wednesday evening Mrs. Bend and her daughters dined with us, and on Thursday Mrs. Costellar and Berenson.

- Sunday after Easter. April 25. + Sunday after Easter. April 25. -

We are just home from the Victoria Hotel, where we have been dining with Mrs. Bend and spent a pleasant evening with her and her two pretty girls. The day has been lovely - Nettie and I had a delicious morning together at the Pitti - and afterwards went to the church of the Carmine to see the Masaccio frescoes - which I knew well from my photographs - and could therefore intelligently enjoy in detail, despite the darkness of the little chapel where they are, and their faded condition. Lizzie Buttles and both girls came to lunch, and stayed to tea. After they had gone, Mrs. Baldwin called. I found her simple, pleasant and unaffected - and I enjoyed talking to her. She has asked us to lunch on Tuesday.

+

We are just home from the Victoria Hotel, where we have been dining with Mrs. Bend and spent a pleasant evening with her and her two pretty girls. The day has been lovely - Nettie and I had a delicious morning together at the Pitti - and afterwards went to the church of the Carmine to see the Masaccio frescoes - which I knew well from my photographs - and could therefore intelligently enjoy in detail, despite the darkness of the little chapel where they are, and their faded condition. Lizzie Buttles and both girls came to lunch, and stayed to tea. After they had gone, Mrs. Baldwin called. I found her simple, pleasant and unaffected - and I enjoyed talking to her. She has asked us to lunch on Tuesday.

Monday. April 26. -

After a morning with Mary and Theodore at the Bargello, among the della Robias and Donatellos - Theodore and I drove out to the Villa Rosa at Fiesole to lunch with Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. A nice scotch woman was there - a Miss Christina Breenner - worker in and writer on education of women. A pleasant visit, and much talking - and a charming drive down the hill and a turn in the Cascine which was quite too lovely - none of the gay throng having arrived - the air so delicious - the birds singing like mad. We had to hurry home, for Mrs. Bend and her girls were coming to tea to meet Lizzie and the girls. Nettie, poor child, detained at home with one of her bad neuralgia headaches - Theodore and I dined alone - and have had a quiet evening, writing letters.

+

After a morning with Mary and Theodore at the Bargello, among the della Robias and Donatellos - Theodore and I drove out to the Villa Rosa at Fiesole to lunch with Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. A nice scotch woman was there - a Miss Christina Breenner - worker in and writer on education of women. A pleasant visit, and much talking - and a charming drive down the hill and a turn in the Cascine which was quite too lovely - none of the gay throng having arrived - the air so delicious - the birds singing like mad. We had to hurry home, for Mrs. Bend and her girls were coming to tea to meet Lizzie and the girls. Nettie, poor child, detained at home with one of her bad neuralgia headaches - Theodore and I dined alone - and have had a quiet evening, writing letters.

Tuesday, April 27. -

Such a busy day - shopping this morning - lunching at Dr. Baldwins - where we had a delightful visit - and a beautiful luncheon, the house charming - home to meet Nettie for some searching of photographs at Alinaris - then to Lizzies to tea - and Nettie sang for us in splendid voice. Then a drive with Theodore and Mary in the Cascine. Mary came to dine, and Nettie came for her with Hassan in the evening. Afterwards Theodore and I went up to Mrs. Woodward Haven's rooms to pay a visit and say goodbye. Weather very warm - off tomorrow for Milan.

+

Such a busy day - shopping this morning - lunching at Dr. Baldwins - where we had a delightful visit - and a beautiful luncheon, the house charming - home to meet Nettie for some searching of photographs at Alinaris - then to Lizzies to tea - and Nettie sang for us in splendid voice. Then a drive with Theodore and Mary in the Cascine. Mary came to dine, and Nettie came for her with Hassan in the evening. Afterwards Theodore and I went up to Mrs. Woodward Haven's rooms to pay a visit and say goodbye. Weather very warm - off tomorrow for Milan.

Wednesday. April 28th. -

A very busy morning with Mary - Lizzie and the girls came to lunch - and at 2 o'clock we had to say goodbye to Lizzie and Mary - and Nettie, Theodore and I started for Milan, which we reached comfortably enough at 10 o'clock - taking possession of our old, pleasant rooms at this Hotel Cavour.

+

A very busy morning with Mary - Lizzie and the girls came to lunch - and at 2 o'clock we had to say goodbye to Lizzie and Mary - and Nettie, Theodore and I started for Milan, which we reached comfortably enough at 10 o'clock - taking possession of our old, pleasant rooms at this Hotel Cavour.

Thursday. April 29. -

Theodore, Nettie and I started out at 10 o'clock for the Brera - where we stayed quite 2 hours - this afternoon Nettie and I drove to the other end of everywhere, to the interesting little church of S. Eustorgio. We found it was a festa, and the little piazza in front of the church full of bazaars and peasants. As the especial picture we wanted to see was near the entrance, we got the wife of the Sacristan to open it for us - the picture is a lovely one of the Madonna enthroned by Borgognone. The 3 different entrances to the church were lined with collections of blind, lame and halt, and the poor things all begging. Then we drove along distance to S. Ambrogio, which I saw some years ago. Here there was a great service going on, and we could see nothing. So we came home, stopping on the way to buy some flowers. What a contrast to Florence - which was literally lined with flowers and roses. Here not a flower for sale on the streets, and hardly any shops to be found of them. The streets of Milan are now so intersected by tramways that driving is impossible and uncomfortable. We found Lord Fitzhardinge and his party here just on their way up from Egypt, and Dr. Bridgman came to dine with us - and stayed until nearly 12 o'clock - talking continually in his amusing way. They go tomorrow direct to London - Clarence came back from Venice, enthusiastic, in time for dinner.

+

Theodore, Nettie and I started out at 10 o'clock for the Brera - where we stayed quite 2 hours - this afternoon Nettie and I drove to the other end of everywhere, to the interesting little church of S. Eustorgio. We found it was a festa, and the little piazza in front of the church full of bazaars and peasants. As the especial picture we wanted to see was near the entrance, we got the wife of the Sacristan to open it for us - the picture is a lovely one of the Madonna enthroned by Borgognone. The 3 different entrances to the church were lined with collections of blind, lame and halt, and the poor things all begging. Then we drove along distance to S. Ambrogio, which I saw some years ago. Here there was a great service going on, and we could see nothing. So we came home, stopping on the way to buy some flowers. What a contrast to Florence - which was literally lined with flowers and roses. Here not a flower for sale on the streets, and hardly any shops to be found of them. The streets of Milan are now so intersected by tramways that driving is impossible and uncomfortable. We found Lord Fitzhardinge and his party here just on their way up from Egypt, and Dr. Bridgman came to dine with us - and stayed until nearly 12 o'clock - talking continually in his amusing way. They go tomorrow direct to London - Clarence came back from Venice, enthusiastic, in time for dinner.

Friday. April 30. -

This morning we spent at the Poldo Pozzoli, and Ambrosiana - delightful but tiring. In the afternoon Dr. Bridgman and Clarence and Nettie went to the Brera - afterwards to the Cathedral - and back in time for lunch. It was so pleasant in our sitting room with its big windows opening to the Park, and the sweet fragrant air pouring in, that after tea we walked over, and looked at the trees, and the swans and pheasants. A beautiful soft evening, with great masses of clouds, touched with rosy light, giving promise of rain tomorrow. We start for Turin at 11:30 tomorrow morning.

+

This morning we spent at the Poldo Pozzoli, and Ambrosiana - delightful but tiring. In the afternoon Dr. Bridgman and Clarence and Nettie went to the Brera - afterwards to the Cathedral - and back in time for lunch. It was so pleasant in our sitting room with its big windows opening to the Park, and the sweet fragrant air pouring in, that after tea we walked over, and looked at the trees, and the swans and pheasants. A beautiful soft evening, with great masses of clouds, touched with rosy light, giving promise of rain tomorrow. We start for Turin at 11:30 tomorrow morning.

- Saturday. May 1st. Turin. Grand Hotel de Turin. + Saturday. May 1st. Turin. Grand Hotel de Turin. -

We left Milan at 10:30 this morning and arrived here at 2 P.M. After lunch we went immediately to the Musée, to see the Egyptian things we had so long wanted to see. After climbing 2 huge stone staircases we came to the Egyptian department, and looked in for a moment, and then went on to the next floor very foolishly to see the paintings. Not much that is interesting, though we were much interested in seeing the Bugiardini with the little St. John, almost the exact counterpart of the St. John in Theodore's so called Francia. The subject was the Madonna and Child, adored by the infant St. John and a lovely picture it was. Berenson had written Theodore a year or more ago, that his picture was a Bugiardini and not a Francia and the other day at Fiesole he had shown him the photograph of this Turin picture, and quite convinced him of Bugiardini as the artist. We lingered so long with these pictures that we were too late for the Egyptian gallery - and put our visit off for tomorrow morning. Then we drove about the town, with its handsome well shaded streets and modern houses, and picturesque river bank, and were quite delighted with it - but long before we had finished our drive, one of the horses being rather restive broke his traces, and we were forced to leave the carriage - Nettie and I taking a cab to the hotel, and Theodore and Clarence walking. We are having a dull evening - in our big gloomy rooms - Theodore is not well - seems to have taken cold, and has been sleeping ever since dinner.

+

We left Milan at 10:30 this morning and arrived here at 2 P.M. After lunch we went immediately to the Musée, to see the Egyptian things we had so long wanted to see. After climbing 2 huge stone staircases we came to the Egyptian department, and looked in for a moment, and then went on to the next floor very foolishly to see the paintings. Not much that is interesting, though we were much interested in seeing the Bugiardini with the little St. John, almost the exact counterpart of the St. John in Theodore's so called Francia. The subject was the Madonna and Child, adored by the infant St. John and a lovely picture it was. Berenson had written Theodore a year or more ago, that his picture was a Bugiardini and not a Francia and the other day at Fiesole he had shown him the photograph of this Turin picture, and quite convinced him of Bugiardini as the artist. We lingered so long with these pictures that we were too late for the Egyptian gallery - and put our visit off for tomorrow morning. Then we drove about the town, with its handsome well shaded streets and modern houses, and picturesque river bank, and were quite delighted with it - but long before we had finished our drive, one of the horses being rather restive broke his traces, and we were forced to leave the carriage - Nettie and I taking a cab to the hotel, and Theodore and Clarence walking. We are having a dull evening - in our big gloomy rooms - Theodore is not well - seems to have taken cold, and has been sleeping ever since dinner.

- Monday, May 3d. Hotel Westminster - Paris. + Monday, May 3d. Hotel Westminster - Paris. -

Yesterday morning Theodore seemed much better, but not well enough to venture upon a visit to stony, cold galleries. So Nettie and I went off at 10 o'clock for a morning in the Egyptian department. What was our dismay and disgust at finding the Museum did not open until 1 o'clock - and we starting for Paris at 2:10! So we ordered lunch at 12:30 and immediately afterwards started again for the Musée, intending to drive from there in half an hour to the station, meeting the rest there. On reaching the gallery we deposited our parasols with the custodian and quickly toiled up those great staircases, only to find the doors of the Egyptian department closed! No words could describe our indignation and dismay - we tried bribery - demanded the director, who was not there of course, and baffled and angry we had to return to our hotel - wishing we had gone as usual to Paris by the Basle and Lucerne route. We got away from Turin at 2:30 and found 2 very comfortable compartments reserved for us in the sleeping car - and the afternoon proved delightful. The Scenery was beautiful - grand with splendid effects - I think I never enjoyed a railway ride so much. As with the help of 2 powerful engines we climbed the Mt. Cenis mountain route, it was charming - green smiling plains - snow tipped mountains - streams of rushing, tumbling water pouring down the mountains sides - and every where fascinating Alpine plants growing - such as we try to cultivate in our rock gardens at home, and generally fail in doing. The night was very comfortable - our beds clean - and by 9 o'clock we were established in our familiar apartments here, which we have already occupied twice before. Paris looks quiet. Few Americans here, it is said.

+

Yesterday morning Theodore seemed much better, but not well enough to venture upon a visit to stony, cold galleries. So Nettie and I went off at 10 o'clock for a morning in the Egyptian department. What was our dismay and disgust at finding the Museum did not open until 1 o'clock - and we starting for Paris at 2:10! So we ordered lunch at 12:30 and immediately afterwards started again for the Musée, intending to drive from there in half an hour to the station, meeting the rest there. On reaching the gallery we deposited our parasols with the custodian and quickly toiled up those great staircases, only to find the doors of the Egyptian department closed! No words could describe our indignation and dismay - we tried bribery - demanded the director, who was not there of course, and baffled and angry we had to return to our hotel - wishing we had gone as usual to Paris by the Basle and Lucerne route. We got away from Turin at 2:30 and found 2 very comfortable compartments reserved for us in the sleeping car - and the afternoon proved delightful. The Scenery was beautiful - grand with splendid effects - I think I never enjoyed a railway ride so much. As with the help of 2 powerful engines we climbed the Mt. Cenis mountain route, it was charming - green smiling plains - snow tipped mountains - streams of rushing, tumbling water pouring down the mountains sides - and every where fascinating Alpine plants growing - such as we try to cultivate in our rock gardens at home, and generally fail in doing. The night was very comfortable - our beds clean - and by 9 o'clock we were established in our familiar apartments here, which we have already occupied twice before. Paris looks quiet. Few Americans here, it is said.

Tuesday, May 4. -

This morning I drove with Theodore away off to the Ave-de la Republique to Calmonts to buy a pair of field glasses for Fuli, and another for Clarence. It was really cold, with piercing winds - and I was very uncomfortable. We stopped at the Hotel de France at Choiseul to see Mrs. Taylor and Florence - and found them both with bad colds, and made them promise to come and dine this evening. They have just gone home.

+

This morning I drove with Theodore away off to the Ave-de la Republique to Calmonts to buy a pair of field glasses for Fuli, and another for Clarence. It was really cold, with piercing winds - and I was very uncomfortable. We stopped at the Hotel de France at Choiseul to see Mrs. Taylor and Florence - and found them both with bad colds, and made them promise to come and dine this evening. They have just gone home.

Wednesday. May 5. -

A very dreadful thing happened here yesterday - about 4 o'clock in the afternoon: a charity Bazaar was being held in a large building built and often used for such purposes in the Rue Jean Gonjou near the Palais de l'Industrie. At the time it was crowded with people representing the very best element in French society. The Duchesse d'Alençon sister of the Queen of Austria being at the head of it. Suddenly flames broke out, in an instant the light painted wooden roof was in flames, and within 20 minutes the whole thing with nearly 200 of the audience, who did not succeed in escaping, were all a charred and smoking mass. People escaped without clothing, and shoes. The crowd of waiting carriages did not receive half of their occupants - almost before help could be rendered the thing was over - the Duchesse d'Alençon was burned at her stall, and no remnant of her has been discovered. The streets are almost silent - a pall over the whole city - one thinks, talks, and sees nothing else. Never was a catastrophe so sudden - so complete - so full of horrible details. The weather is bad - cold - rain and even a little snow.

+

A very dreadful thing happened here yesterday - about 4 o'clock in the afternoon: a charity Bazaar was being held in a large building built and often used for such purposes in the Rue Jean Gonjou near the Palais de l'Industrie. At the time it was crowded with people representing the very best element in French society. The Duchesse d'Alençon sister of the Queen of Austria being at the head of it. Suddenly flames broke out, in an instant the light painted wooden roof was in flames, and within 20 minutes the whole thing with nearly 200 of the audience, who did not succeed in escaping, were all a charred and smoking mass. People escaped without clothing, and shoes. The crowd of waiting carriages did not receive half of their occupants - almost before help could be rendered the thing was over - the Duchesse d'Alençon was burned at her stall, and no remnant of her has been discovered. The streets are almost silent - a pall over the whole city - one thinks, talks, and sees nothing else. Never was a catastrophe so sudden - so complete - so full of horrible details. The weather is bad - cold - rain and even a little snow.

Thursday. May 6. -

We have plunged into the travail of dress making and shopping which seems almost heartless in this stunned and bereaved city. The daily details of this horrible accident grow worse and more harrowing. The whole civilized world stands aghast. The weather of yesterday repeats itself today, - rain, snow, and cold, cold winds. I am a little wretched - and so is Theodore. Terry Boal arrived today from Thonon - with his wife - having left the baby with his Aunt Sara and Annie at their home in Thonon. They are on their way to America - and why they have left the baby, with the mothers heart rent with grief, no one can say - their plans seem very vague and uncertain.

+

We have plunged into the travail of dress making and shopping which seems almost heartless in this stunned and bereaved city. The daily details of this horrible accident grow worse and more harrowing. The whole civilized world stands aghast. The weather of yesterday repeats itself today, - rain, snow, and cold, cold winds. I am a little wretched - and so is Theodore. Terry Boal arrived today from Thonon - with his wife - having left the baby with his Aunt Sara and Annie at their home in Thonon. They are on their way to America - and why they have left the baby, with the mothers heart rent with grief, no one can say - their plans seem very vague and uncertain.

Friday. May 7. -

This is Theodore's birthday - his 58 birthday. We made a little festa this afternoon, and asked Mrs. Taylor and Florence to tea, and Terry and Mathilde were here. A cold, rainy day - I spent most of the morning in Dr. Bull's office, having my eyes examined - and this afternoon Nettie and I tried to accomplish something, but were driven home by the wind and rain. Florence Talylor came to dinner, and has gone to the Opera with Theodore, Nettie and Clarence, to hear Lohengrin. The theatres have been closed for 2 days, on account of the dreadful catastrophe. This morning, I could hardly drive to the Flower market at the Madeline, on account of the carriages ranged around it, and the front draped in black. This is the day of most of the enterrements - some of the churches are dressed in white, marking the funerals of the young, the others in black.

+

This is Theodore's birthday - his 58 birthday. We made a little festa this afternoon, and asked Mrs. Taylor and Florence to tea, and Terry and Mathilde were here. A cold, rainy day - I spent most of the morning in Dr. Bull's office, having my eyes examined - and this afternoon Nettie and I tried to accomplish something, but were driven home by the wind and rain. Florence Talylor came to dinner, and has gone to the Opera with Theodore, Nettie and Clarence, to hear Lohengrin. The theatres have been closed for 2 days, on account of the dreadful catastrophe. This morning, I could hardly drive to the Flower market at the Madeline, on account of the carriages ranged around it, and the front draped in black. This is the day of most of the enterrements - some of the churches are dressed in white, marking the funerals of the young, the others in black.

- Fourth Sunday after Easter. May 16. + Fourth Sunday after Easter. May 16. -

A week or more has gone by, with very little to chronicle, except continued bad and gloomy weather and constant shopping and sight seeing and wrestling with Paris dressmakers and milliners. It has seemed as if the weather were in mourning with the city. The Taylors dined with us last night and said goodbye and Terry and Mathilde come to dine tonight. We are off tomorrow for London, and very glad we all are. We are very much delighted these last days because Theodore has secured the beautiful Chigi Madonna of Botticelli for which he has been bargaining since before we left Rome. He has also stumbled upon a charmingly interesting painting of a Madonna and Child by that rare old Venetian painter the father of the Venetian school, Bartolemmeo Vivarini. He saw it a few days ago at Durand-Ruel's rooms - who had bought it with two or three old Italian daubs at an auction or sale from an old Paris family - he paid 400 dollars for it and evidently did not know its value. It was in a wretched condition - the panel warped and worm eaten. Theodore wanted it from the first and took me and Nettie to see it - we were charmed. Nettie pronounced it excellent and when a day or two after Theodore heard that the Louvre people were looking at it, he decided to buy it and have it transferred to canvas. He paid 1600 dollars for it. The Madonna is seated with the child on her knee - behind her a red curtain hung on a black cord, a gold background, beautifully dulled and reddened by time - signed -

+

A week or more has gone by, with very little to chronicle, except continued bad and gloomy weather and constant shopping and sight seeing and wrestling with Paris dressmakers and milliners. It has seemed as if the weather were in mourning with the city. The Taylors dined with us last night and said goodbye and Terry and Mathilde come to dine tonight. We are off tomorrow for London, and very glad we all are. We are very much delighted these last days because Theodore has secured the beautiful Chigi Madonna of Botticelli for which he has been bargaining since before we left Rome. He has also stumbled upon a charmingly interesting painting of a Madonna and Child by that rare old Venetian painter the father of the Venetian school, Bartolemmeo Vivarini. He saw it a few days ago at Durand-Ruel's rooms - who had bought it with two or three old Italian daubs at an auction or sale from an old Paris family - he paid 400 dollars for it and evidently did not know its value. It was in a wretched condition - the panel warped and worm eaten. Theodore wanted it from the first and took me and Nettie to see it - we were charmed. Nettie pronounced it excellent and when a day or two after Theodore heard that the Louvre people were looking at it, he decided to buy it and have it transferred to canvas. He paid 1600 dollars for it. The Madonna is seated with the child on her knee - behind her a red curtain hung on a black cord, a gold background, beautifully dulled and reddened by time - signed -

- London - Hotel Bristol.Friday - May 21. + London - Hotel Bristol.Friday - May 21. -

We came over from Paris last Monday the 17th - had a good but cold crossing - but a comfortable cabin, in which Nettie and I stretched ourselves out, and slept almost the whole way over. We have a gorgeous appartment here, on the first floor. London is very empty of Americans. Everyone is I suppose waiting for the Queen's 60th anniversary of her reign - it will be a great Jubilee - decorations and scaffoldings for seats are going up everywhere. The weather has been very good ever since our arrival - we have been busy shopping for the house and the dahabeah - seeing pictures and driving. Nettie and I go out to Sanderstead Court tomorrow to stay over Sunday with the Wallaces - and Theodore and Clarence go to Oxford to stay over Sunday.

+

We came over from Paris last Monday the 17th - had a good but cold crossing - but a comfortable cabin, in which Nettie and I stretched ourselves out, and slept almost the whole way over. We have a gorgeous appartment here, on the first floor. London is very empty of Americans. Everyone is I suppose waiting for the Queen's 60th anniversary of her reign - it will be a great Jubilee - decorations and scaffoldings for seats are going up everywhere. The weather has been very good ever since our arrival - we have been busy shopping for the house and the dahabeah - seeing pictures and driving. Nettie and I go out to Sanderstead Court tomorrow to stay over Sunday with the Wallaces - and Theodore and Clarence go to Oxford to stay over Sunday.

Monday. May 24. -

Nettie and I came back from Sanderstead Court this morning, where we had gone on Saturday to pay a visit to those dear Wallaces. The weather was bright - but a cold north east wind blowing - so that it was a great contrast to our last visit there. There was a pleasant house party - especially an interesting old woman, Miss Ogle of Northumberland and we talked and walked about the park, and the terrace, and investigated the gardens - Nettie sang to them in the evenings, to their great delight. There is such comfort and luxury in these English country houses. Gaspard Farrar came to dinner tonight. Wednesday evening. May 26. We made our 3d visit to the National Gallery this morning - weather cold and threatening. We have found driving, even in the park, disagreeable. Busy shopping and seeing things. Last evening we dined at Sir William Farrars - and had a charming evening. Sir William in spite of his age and infirmities very interesting and agreeable. To the play this evening: "My Friend the Prince". Very laughable.

+

Nettie and I came back from Sanderstead Court this morning, where we had gone on Saturday to pay a visit to those dear Wallaces. The weather was bright - but a cold north east wind blowing - so that it was a great contrast to our last visit there. There was a pleasant house party - especially an interesting old woman, Miss Ogle of Northumberland and we talked and walked about the park, and the terrace, and investigated the gardens - Nettie sang to them in the evenings, to their great delight. There is such comfort and luxury in these English country houses. Gaspard Farrar came to dinner tonight. Wednesday evening. May 26. We made our 3d visit to the National Gallery this morning - weather cold and threatening. We have found driving, even in the park, disagreeable. Busy shopping and seeing things. Last evening we dined at Sir William Farrars - and had a charming evening. Sir William in spite of his age and infirmities very interesting and agreeable. To the play this evening: "My Friend the Prince". Very laughable.

Sunday - after Ascension. May 30. -

We spent a delightful day on Thursday. Going out to Sevenoaks where we had lunch at the "Royal Crown" and then drove to Knole - and saw that wonderful house with its picturesque courts and rooms and countless treasurers. Theodore and I were fascinated with the beautiful Persian rugs, which are said to have been in the house since the time of Queen Elizabeth. Then we walked and drove about the great park with its renowned beeches, until it was time to take the train back to London. Fielding was with us. On Friday, Theodore and Clarence went to Sanderstead Court to lunch - the day cold and stormy. Nettie and I went to the National Gallery, and took a drive and in the evening we all went to dine with Fielding and his sister Lady Winifride Cary-Elwes and such a pleasant evening, as they are musical, and Nettie sang a great deal - and it was after 12 o'clock when we came home. On Saturday Fielding and Mr. Cary-Elwes came early, and Nettie sang the whole morning - they stayed to lunch, and most of the afternoon. Rain all day - Theodore went out to Hothorpe to stay until Monday. This morning, the weather being fairly pleasant, we decided, Nettie, Clarence and I, that we would go to Hampton Court - and ordered a carriage to be ready at 11 o'clock. Waited until half past, when the porter sent word he had not been able to get a carriage, having tried 3 stables. So very wrathfully we gave up Hampton Court, and ordered a hansom for the National Gallery - which we found closed, the policeman saying it was only open on Sunday from 2 to 6. Then we decided to go to Westminster Abbey, where we found the congregation just dispersing, and were told the Abbey was closed on Sunday between services. There was nothing then to do but come home and have lunch and start for Kno Gardens - for which we had ordered a carriage. We spent 2 delightful hours walking about there - and just after we got home, after 6 o'clock, Mrs. Davis, and Terry Boal and Mathilde arrived from Paris.

+

We spent a delightful day on Thursday. Going out to Sevenoaks where we had lunch at the "Royal Crown" and then drove to Knole - and saw that wonderful house with its picturesque courts and rooms and countless treasurers. Theodore and I were fascinated with the beautiful Persian rugs, which are said to have been in the house since the time of Queen Elizabeth. Then we walked and drove about the great park with its renowned beeches, until it was time to take the train back to London. Fielding was with us. On Friday, Theodore and Clarence went to Sanderstead Court to lunch - the day cold and stormy. Nettie and I went to the National Gallery, and took a drive and in the evening we all went to dine with Fielding and his sister Lady Winifride Cary-Elwes and such a pleasant evening, as they are musical, and Nettie sang a great deal - and it was after 12 o'clock when we came home. On Saturday Fielding and Mr. Cary-Elwes came early, and Nettie sang the whole morning - they stayed to lunch, and most of the afternoon. Rain all day - Theodore went out to Hothorpe to stay until Monday. This morning, the weather being fairly pleasant, we decided, Nettie, Clarence and I, that we would go to Hampton Court - and ordered a carriage to be ready at 11 o'clock. Waited until half past, when the porter sent word he had not been able to get a carriage, having tried 3 stables. So very wrathfully we gave up Hampton Court, and ordered a hansom for the National Gallery - which we found closed, the policeman saying it was only open on Sunday from 2 to 6. Then we decided to go to Westminster Abbey, where we found the congregation just dispersing, and were told the Abbey was closed on Sunday between services. There was nothing then to do but come home and have lunch and start for Kno Gardens - for which we had ordered a carriage. We spent 2 delightful hours walking about there - and just after we got home, after 6 o'clock, Mrs. Davis, and Terry Boal and Mathilde arrived from Paris.

Tuesday evening. June 1st. -

Nettie departed this morning for Florence. Afterwards Theodore and I went to the stores, and at the top of the first staircase, I met Mrs. Sandwith, just arrived from Cairo, and as she turned away, I saw Theodore speaking to Mr. Somers-Clarke who said he left Cairo a few days since, the thermometer had been 106 in the shade - and a damp heat at that. His boat is lying next the Beduin, at Shubron's yards. We left cards this afternoon on various friends - and settled our final arrangements - packing etc. Mrs. Davis, Clarence, Terry Boal and Mathilde all took an early dinner, and departed for the Military Tournament - and at this hour 11:30 are not yet home. Lady Winifride and Mr. Cary-Elwes, Lady Agnes and Mr. de Trafford, and Mr. Fielding came to dinner with Theodore, and me at 8 o'clock, and we had a charming, jolly evening. Delightful people. They have just gone. We are off tomorrow at noon for Liverpool and will sail about 5 in the afternoon. 11

+

Nettie departed this morning for Florence. Afterwards Theodore and I went to the stores, and at the top of the first staircase, I met Mrs. Sandwith, just arrived from Cairo, and as she turned away, I saw Theodore speaking to Mr. Somers-Clarke who said he left Cairo a few days since, the thermometer had been 106 in the shade - and a damp heat at that. His boat is lying next the Beduin, at Shubron's yards. We left cards this afternoon on various friends - and settled our final arrangements - packing etc. Mrs. Davis, Clarence, Terry Boal and Mathilde all took an early dinner, and departed for the Military Tournament - and at this hour 11:30 are not yet home. Lady Winifride and Mr. Cary-Elwes, Lady Agnes and Mr. de Trafford, and Mr. Fielding came to dinner with Theodore, and me at 8 o'clock, and we had a charming, jolly evening. Delightful people. They have just gone. We are off tomorrow at noon for Liverpool and will sail about 5 in the afternoon. 11

From 07724f18a3893107a3c42cc4e9a2a92191966ada Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Sarah Ketchley Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2022 19:42:06 -0800 Subject: [PATCH 10/15] Update volume4.xml --- diary-volumes/volume4.xml | 3 ++- 1 file changed, 2 insertions(+), 1 deletion(-) diff --git a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml index fc7eb3645..705928627 100644 --- a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml +++ b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml @@ -404,7 +404,8 @@ Saturday. March 13. -

Started in a light wind at 6 A.M. at 11 it was blowing such a gale that we tied up at the high cliffs about 2 miles above and opposite Tahtah. Just where there is a group of palms - and the white little mosque against the yellow cliffs. Luckily it was not a hot day, or the reflection from those towering limestone cliffs would have been insufferable. But how the wind has blown - in our sheltered position however we got no sand. The canvass on the river side, and over the deck, and at the back were put up - leaving the land side with its pretty sights open - and under the hooded seats, the deck was charming for sitting. All the others went to walk, but I took mine on the clean deck. The Columbia came in sight this morning, and drew up just above us. At 6:30 we both went off, in the bright moonlight, the wind having fallen very much - and the men are still rowing. (They rowed until 12:30, thus making 27 miles).

+

Started in a light wind at 6 A.M. at 11 it was blowing such a gale that we tied up at the high cliffs about 2 miles above and opposite Tahtah. Just where there is a group of palms - and the white little mosque against the yellow cliffs. Luckily it was not a hot day, or the reflection from those towering limestone cliffs would have been insufferable. But how the wind has blown - in our sheltered position however we got no sand. The canvass on the river side, and over the deck, and at the back were put up - leaving the land side with its pretty sights open - and under the hooded seats, the deck was charming for sitting. All the others went to walk, but I took mine on the clean deck. The Columbia came in sight this morning, and drew up just above us. At 6:30 we both went off, in the bright moonlight, the wind having fallen very much - and the men are still rowing. (They rowed until 12:30, thus making 27 miles). +

From 97670c9243c69d04393d9a3829e16a0fdfdccdf7 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Sarah Ketchley Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2022 19:47:33 -0800 Subject: [PATCH 11/15] Update volume4.xml --- diary-volumes/volume4.xml | 20 +++++++++++--------- 1 file changed, 11 insertions(+), 9 deletions(-) diff --git a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml index 705928627..9396fe494 100644 --- a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml +++ b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml @@ -483,7 +483,7 @@ Friday. March 26. -

Mrs. Taylor and Florence came this morning and made a visit, and were very pleasant - putting us en rapport with everything in and about Cairo - asking us to dine on Saturday with them at the Gesireh to meet Sir John Scott, who wants to know Theodore, and whom Theodore is very keen to meet. Sir John is Judicial Advisor to the Khedive, and did excellent work in India before coming here to help straighten out Egyptian affairs. In the afternoon went to the races - which were rather slow - met Mrs. Hamilton Lang and her daughter - saw Gen. Kitchener, the Sirdâr and other notables.

+

Mrs. Taylor and Florence came this morning and made a visit, and were very pleasant - putting us en rapport with everything in and about Cairo - asking us to dine on Saturday with them at the Gesireh to meet Sir John Scott, who wants to know Theodore, and whom Theodore is very keen to meet. Sir John is Judicial Advisor to the Khedive, and did excellent work in India before coming here to help straighten out Egyptian affairs. In the afternoon went to the races - which were rather slow - met Mrs. Hamilton Lang and her daughter - saw Gen. Kitchener, the Sirdâr and other notables.

@@ -519,13 +519,13 @@ Rome. Bristol Hotel. April 15. -

A long interval in this journal. We left Alexandria the afternoon of the 3d in the fine new S.S. Bohemia for Brindisi. Weather very warm - and we were glad of the welcome change which two or three hours at sea brought. Boat very comfortable - but passage rough - almost every one in his bed - I stayed in mine Sunday and Monday - and we landed at Brindisi at 5 o'clock and made our train, because they were complaisant enough to hold our train 40 minutes for us. The long ride to Naples was not so tiring, and seemed more pleasant than usual. So delightful the country seemed in its fresh spring greenness - and the huge vegetable garden which stretches as far as the eye can see, without boundaries, for miles before reaching Naples, is something quite wonderful. Everything planted under the thin foliaged trees, with their garlands of vines stretching from tree to tree. We found pleasant rooms at the Grand Hotel, but Theodore had taken a cold in crossing, which developed into a light form of grippe, which gave him much suffering and restlessness - and he had the Doctor (Malbrane) who is always so simple and helpful, and stayed in the room all the time, and one day in bed. As the weather was not good, clouds everywhere, Vesuvius and the islands hidden from view most of the time, I stayed at home with Theodore - and on Saturday the 10th he was well enough to come on here - Clarence, Mary, Amilie and Jones spent one day at Pompeii, and Clarence the next day at Vesuvius. We had rooms engaged at the Quirinal, but found them much too small and fortunately having had an offer from the Bristol we came here, which is always my favorite hotel in Rome. But alas, I have since coming here developed the grippe also - and have been in bed and in the house all the time until yesterday, as uncomfortable as I ever remember of being - with Dr. Bull in daily attendance. All the world more or less is in Rome - and to my thinking Holy Week is not the time to visit Rome, unless one is interested in church ceremonies. The pictures in churches covered, many galleries closed etc.

+

A long interval in this journal. We left Alexandria the afternoon of the 3d in the fine new S.S. Bohemia for Brindisi. Weather very warm - and we were glad of the welcome change which two or three hours at sea brought. Boat very comfortable - but passage rough - almost every one in his bed - I stayed in mine Sunday and Monday - and we landed at Brindisi at 5 o'clock and made our train, because they were complaisant enough to hold our train 40 minutes for us. The long ride to Naples was not so tiring, and seemed more pleasant than usual. So delightful the country seemed in its fresh spring greenness - and the huge vegetable garden which stretches as far as the eye can see, without boundaries, for miles before reaching Naples, is something quite wonderful. Everything planted under the thin foliaged trees, with their garlands of vines stretching from tree to tree. We found pleasant rooms at the Grand Hotel, but Theodore had taken a cold in crossing, which developed into a light form of grippe, which gave him much suffering and restlessness - and he had the Doctor (Malbrane) who is always so simple and helpful, and stayed in the room all the time, and one day in bed. As the weather was not good, clouds everywhere, Vesuvius and the islands hidden from view most of the time, I stayed at home with Theodore - and on Saturday the 10th he was well enough to come on here - Clarence, Mary, Amilie and Jones spent one day at Pompeii, and Clarence the next day at Vesuvius. We had rooms engaged at the Quirinal, but found them much too small and fortunately having had an offer from the Bristol we came here, which is always my favorite hotel in Rome. But alas, I have since coming here developed the grippe also - and have been in bed and in the house all the time until yesterday, as uncomfortable as I ever remember of being - with Dr. Bull in daily attendance. All the world more or less is in Rome - and to my thinking Holy Week is not the time to visit Rome, unless one is interested in church ceremonies. The pictures in churches covered, many galleries closed etc.

Hotel Grande Bretagne. Florence. April 22. -

We got away from Rome Tuesday the 20th at 9 o'clock in the morning - I was glad to leave - for Mary had taken cold, and we were all under the weather. On Easter Sunday, I was able to drive out 7 miles on the Campagna to the Villa Livia, where we met by invitation Mrs. Elliott, who had asked some of her friends to take tea with us there. Mrs. Stillman, the once favorite beauty was there - Mr. Larz Anderson - the young Swedish American sculptor Anderson, whose mother lives in Newport was there and others. It was not quite my idea of enjoyment - sitting at 5 o'clock P.M. on rugs on the ground at the top of a windy hill - but Mrs. Elliott's intention was good and kind. The next morning, Theodore, Mary and I went to St. Peters and saw the lovely Melozzo angels and frescoes in the inner sacristy - then drove to the Colosseum and along the Via S. Gregorio, the morning being quite warm and beautiful. Theodore went to lunch with the Elliotts, and in the afternoon Mary and I drove to the Villa Doria Pamphilia, the lovely grounds of which were full of people, it being Easter Monday and a holiday. But the weather had changed and the wind was cold - so we drove to the Piazzo Rusticucci to say goodbye to Mrs. Elliott and had a pleasant visit - meeting for the first time Mr. Elliott - a handsome, rather invalid looking man, whom I liked - especially when he took me on to his roof garden which he cultivates entirely himself, and which has charming views of S. Pietro and the whole quarter. It was gay with vines and climbing roses and flowers and quite fascinating. Clarence met us there, and after tea we all drove home. Mrs. Elliott and her cousin Miss Von Ralem having dined with us the night before. We had a pleasant ride to Florence, found Nettie waiting for us, and who soon went off with Mary. We have pleasant rooms here overlooking the Arno and Ponto Vecchio, and we, that is Theodore and I, have decided to stay here and not go to Venice - Clarence will go alone.

+

We got away from Rome Tuesday the 20th at 9 o'clock in the morning - I was glad to leave - for Mary had taken cold, and we were all under the weather. On Easter Sunday, I was able to drive out 7 miles on the Campagna to the Villa Livia, where we met by invitation Mrs. Elliott, who had asked some of her friends to take tea with us there. Mrs. Stillman, the once favorite beauty was there - Mr. Larz Anderson - the young Swedish American sculptor Anderson, whose mother lives in Newport was there and others. It was not quite my idea of enjoyment - sitting at 5 o'clock P.M. on rugs on the ground at the top of a windy hill - but Mrs. Elliott's intention was good and kind. The next morning, Theodore, Mary and I went to St. Peters and saw the lovely Melozzo angels and frescoes in the inner sacristy - then drove to the Colosseum and along the Via S. Gregorio, the morning being quite warm and beautiful. Theodore went to lunch with the Elliotts, and in the afternoon Mary and I drove to the Villa Doria Pamphilia, the lovely grounds of which were full of people, it being Easter Monday and a holiday. But the weather had changed and the wind was cold - so we drove to the Piazzo Rusticucci to say goodbye to Mrs. Elliott and had a pleasant visit - meeting for the first time Mr. Elliott - a handsome, rather invalid looking man, whom I liked - especially when he took me on to his roof garden which he cultivates entirely himself, and which has charming views of S. Pietro and the whole quarter. It was gay with vines and climbing roses and flowers and quite fascinating. Clarence met us there, and after tea we all drove home. Mrs. Elliott and her cousin Miss Von Ralem having dined with us the night before. We had a pleasant ride to Florence, found Nettie waiting for us, and who soon went off with Mary. We have pleasant rooms here overlooking the Arno and Ponto Vecchio, and we, that is Theodore and I, have decided to stay here and not go to Venice - Clarence will go alone.

@@ -537,19 +537,19 @@ Sunday after Easter. April 25. -

We are just home from the Victoria Hotel, where we have been dining with Mrs. Bend and spent a pleasant evening with her and her two pretty girls. The day has been lovely - Nettie and I had a delicious morning together at the Pitti - and afterwards went to the church of the Carmine to see the Masaccio frescoes - which I knew well from my photographs - and could therefore intelligently enjoy in detail, despite the darkness of the little chapel where they are, and their faded condition. Lizzie Buttles and both girls came to lunch, and stayed to tea. After they had gone, Mrs. Baldwin called. I found her simple, pleasant and unaffected - and I enjoyed talking to her. She has asked us to lunch on Tuesday.

+

We are just home from the Victoria Hotel, where we have been dining with Mrs. Bend and spent a pleasant evening with her and her two pretty girls. The day has been lovely - Nettie and I had a delicious morning together at the Pitti - and afterwards went to the church of the Carmine to see the Masaccio frescoes - which I knew well from my photographs - and could therefore intelligently enjoy in detail, despite the darkness of the little chapel where they are, and their faded condition. Lizzie Buttles and both girls came to lunch, and stayed to tea. After they had gone, Mrs. Baldwin called. I found her simple, pleasant and unaffected - and I enjoyed talking to her. She has asked us to lunch on Tuesday.

Monday. April 26. -

After a morning with Mary and Theodore at the Bargello, among the della Robias and Donatellos - Theodore and I drove out to the Villa Rosa at Fiesole to lunch with Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. A nice scotch woman was there - a Miss Christina Breenner - worker in and writer on education of women. A pleasant visit, and much talking - and a charming drive down the hill and a turn in the Cascine which was quite too lovely - none of the gay throng having arrived - the air so delicious - the birds singing like mad. We had to hurry home, for Mrs. Bend and her girls were coming to tea to meet Lizzie and the girls. Nettie, poor child, detained at home with one of her bad neuralgia headaches - Theodore and I dined alone - and have had a quiet evening, writing letters.

+

After a morning with Mary and Theodore at the Bargello, among the della Robias and Donatellos - Theodore and I drove out to the Villa Rosa at Fiesole to lunch with Mrs. Costellar and Berenson. A nice scotch woman was there - a Miss Christina Breenner - worker in and writer on education of women. A pleasant visit, and much talking - and a charming drive down the hill and a turn in the Cascine which was quite too lovely - none of the gay throng having arrived - the air so delicious - the birds singing like mad. We had to hurry home, for Mrs. Bend and her girls were coming to tea to meet Lizzie and the girls. Nettie, poor child, detained at home with one of her bad neuralgia headaches - Theodore and I dined alone - and have had a quiet evening, writing letters.

Tuesday, April 27. -

Such a busy day - shopping this morning - lunching at Dr. Baldwins - where we had a delightful visit - and a beautiful luncheon, the house charming - home to meet Nettie for some searching of photographs at Alinaris - then to Lizzies to tea - and Nettie sang for us in splendid voice. Then a drive with Theodore and Mary in the Cascine. Mary came to dine, and Nettie came for her with Hassan in the evening. Afterwards Theodore and I went up to Mrs. Woodward Haven's rooms to pay a visit and say goodbye. Weather very warm - off tomorrow for Milan.

+

Such a busy day - shopping this morning - lunching at Dr. Baldwins - where we had a delightful visit - and a beautiful luncheon, the house charming - home to meet Nettie for some searching of photographs at Alinaris - then to Lizzies to tea - and Nettie sang for us in splendid voice. Then a drive with Theodore and Mary in the Cascine. Mary came to dine, and Nettie came for her with Hassan in the evening. Afterwards Theodore and I went up to Mrs. Woodward Haven's rooms to pay a visit and say goodbye. Weather very warm - off tomorrow for Milan.

@@ -561,7 +561,7 @@ Thursday. April 29. -

Theodore, Nettie and I started out at 10 o'clock for the Brera - where we stayed quite 2 hours - this afternoon Nettie and I drove to the other end of everywhere, to the interesting little church of S. Eustorgio. We found it was a festa, and the little piazza in front of the church full of bazaars and peasants. As the especial picture we wanted to see was near the entrance, we got the wife of the Sacristan to open it for us - the picture is a lovely one of the Madonna enthroned by Borgognone. The 3 different entrances to the church were lined with collections of blind, lame and halt, and the poor things all begging. Then we drove along distance to S. Ambrogio, which I saw some years ago. Here there was a great service going on, and we could see nothing. So we came home, stopping on the way to buy some flowers. What a contrast to Florence - which was literally lined with flowers and roses. Here not a flower for sale on the streets, and hardly any shops to be found of them. The streets of Milan are now so intersected by tramways that driving is impossible and uncomfortable. We found Lord Fitzhardinge and his party here just on their way up from Egypt, and Dr. Bridgman came to dine with us - and stayed until nearly 12 o'clock - talking continually in his amusing way. They go tomorrow direct to London - Clarence came back from Venice, enthusiastic, in time for dinner.

+

Theodore, Nettie and I started out at 10 o'clock for the Brera - where we stayed quite 2 hours - this afternoon Nettie and I drove to the other end of everywhere, to the interesting little church of S. Eustorgio. We found it was a festa, and the little piazza in front of the church full of bazaars and peasants. As the especial picture we wanted to see was near the entrance, we got the wife of the Sacristan to open it for us - the picture is a lovely one of the Madonna enthroned by Borgognone. The 3 different entrances to the church were lined with collections of blind, lame and halt, and the poor things all begging. Then we drove along distance to S. Ambrogio, which I saw some years ago. Here there was a great service going on, and we could see nothing. So we came home, stopping on the way to buy some flowers. What a contrast to Florence - which was literally lined with flowers and roses. Here not a flower for sale on the streets, and hardly any shops to be found of them. The streets of Milan are now so intersected by tramways that driving is impossible and uncomfortable. We found Lord Fitzhardinge and his party here just on their way up from Egypt, and Dr. Bridgman came to dine with us - and stayed until nearly 12 o'clock - talking continually in his amusing way. They go tomorrow direct to London - Clarence came back from Venice, enthusiastic, in time for dinner.

@@ -579,7 +579,7 @@ Monday, May 3d. Hotel Westminster - Paris. -

Yesterday morning Theodore seemed much better, but not well enough to venture upon a visit to stony, cold galleries. So Nettie and I went off at 10 o'clock for a morning in the Egyptian department. What was our dismay and disgust at finding the Museum did not open until 1 o'clock - and we starting for Paris at 2:10! So we ordered lunch at 12:30 and immediately afterwards started again for the Musée, intending to drive from there in half an hour to the station, meeting the rest there. On reaching the gallery we deposited our parasols with the custodian and quickly toiled up those great staircases, only to find the doors of the Egyptian department closed! No words could describe our indignation and dismay - we tried bribery - demanded the director, who was not there of course, and baffled and angry we had to return to our hotel - wishing we had gone as usual to Paris by the Basle and Lucerne route. We got away from Turin at 2:30 and found 2 very comfortable compartments reserved for us in the sleeping car - and the afternoon proved delightful. The Scenery was beautiful - grand with splendid effects - I think I never enjoyed a railway ride so much. As with the help of 2 powerful engines we climbed the Mt. Cenis mountain route, it was charming - green smiling plains - snow tipped mountains - streams of rushing, tumbling water pouring down the mountains sides - and every where fascinating Alpine plants growing - such as we try to cultivate in our rock gardens at home, and generally fail in doing. The night was very comfortable - our beds clean - and by 9 o'clock we were established in our familiar apartments here, which we have already occupied twice before. Paris looks quiet. Few Americans here, it is said.

+

Yesterday morning Theodore seemed much better, but not well enough to venture upon a visit to stony, cold galleries. So Nettie and I went off at 10 o'clock for a morning in the Egyptian department. What was our dismay and disgust at finding the Museum did not open until 1 o'clock - and we starting for Paris at 2:10! So we ordered lunch at 12:30 and immediately afterwards started again for the Musée, intending to drive from there in half an hour to the station, meeting the rest there. On reaching the gallery we deposited our parasols with the custodian and quickly toiled up those great staircases, only to find the doors of the Egyptian department closed! No words could describe our indignation and dismay - we tried bribery - demanded the director, who was not there of course, and baffled and angry we had to return to our hotel - wishing we had gone as usual to Paris by the Basle and Lucerne route. We got away from Turin at 2:30 and found 2 very comfortable compartments reserved for us in the sleeping car - and the afternoon proved delightful. The Scenery was beautiful - grand with splendid effects - I think I never enjoyed a railway ride so much. As with the help of 2 powerful engines we climbed the Mt. Cenis mountain route, it was charming - green smiling plains - snow tipped mountains - streams of rushing, tumbling water pouring down the mountains sides - and every where fascinating Alpine plants growing - such as we try to cultivate in our rock gardens at home, and generally fail in doing. The night was very comfortable - our beds clean - and by 9 o'clock we were established in our familiar apartments here, which we have already occupied twice before. Paris looks quiet. Few Americans here, it is said.

@@ -609,7 +609,8 @@ Fourth Sunday after Easter. May 16. -

A week or more has gone by, with very little to chronicle, except continued bad and gloomy weather and constant shopping and sight seeing and wrestling with Paris dressmakers and milliners. It has seemed as if the weather were in mourning with the city. The Taylors dined with us last night and said goodbye and Terry and Mathilde come to dine tonight. We are off tomorrow for London, and very glad we all are. We are very much delighted these last days because Theodore has secured the beautiful Chigi Madonna of Botticelli for which he has been bargaining since before we left Rome. He has also stumbled upon a charmingly interesting painting of a Madonna and Child by that rare old Venetian painter the father of the Venetian school, Bartolemmeo Vivarini. He saw it a few days ago at Durand-Ruel's rooms - who had bought it with two or three old Italian daubs at an auction or sale from an old Paris family - he paid 400 dollars for it and evidently did not know its value. It was in a wretched condition - the panel warped and worm eaten. Theodore wanted it from the first and took me and Nettie to see it - we were charmed. Nettie pronounced it excellent and when a day or two after Theodore heard that the Louvre people were looking at it, he decided to buy it and have it transferred to canvas. He paid 1600 dollars for it. The Madonna is seated with the child on her knee - behind her a red curtain hung on a black cord, a gold background, beautifully dulled and reddened by time - signed -

+

A week or more has gone by, with very little to chronicle, except continued bad and gloomy weather and constant shopping and sight seeing and wrestling with Paris dressmakers and milliners. It has seemed as if the weather were in mourning with the city. The Taylors dined with us last night and said goodbye and Terry and Mathilde come to dine tonight. We are off tomorrow for London, and very glad we all are. We are very much delighted these last days because Theodore has secured the beautiful Chigi Madonna of Botticelli for which he has been bargaining since before we left Rome. He has also stumbled upon a charmingly interesting painting of a Madonna and Child by that rare old Venetian painter the father of the Venetian school, Bartolemmeo Vivarini. He saw it a few days ago at Durand-Ruel's rooms - who had bought it with two or three old Italian daubs at an auction or sale from an old Paris family - he paid 400 dollars for it and evidently did not know its value. It was in a wretched condition - the panel warped and worm eaten. Theodore wanted it from the first and took me and Nettie to see it - we were charmed. Nettie pronounced it excellent and when a day or two after Theodore heard that the Louvre people were looking at it, he decided to buy it and have it transferred to canvas. He paid 1600 dollars for it. The Madonna is seated with the child on her knee - behind her a red curtain hung on a black cord, a gold background, beautifully dulled and reddened by time - signed - +

@@ -635,6 +636,7 @@

Nettie departed this morning for Florence. Afterwards Theodore and I went to the stores, and at the top of the first staircase, I met Mrs. Sandwith, just arrived from Cairo, and as she turned away, I saw Theodore speaking to Mr. Somers-Clarke who said he left Cairo a few days since, the thermometer had been 106 in the shade - and a damp heat at that. His boat is lying next the Beduin, at Shubron's yards. We left cards this afternoon on various friends - and settled our final arrangements - packing etc. Mrs. Davis, Clarence, Terry Boal and Mathilde all took an early dinner, and departed for the Military Tournament - and at this hour 11:30 are not yet home. Lady Winifride and Mr. Cary-Elwes, Lady Agnes and Mr. de Trafford, and Mr. Fielding came to dinner with Theodore, and me at 8 o'clock, and we had a charming, jolly evening. Delightful people. They have just gone. We are off tomorrow at noon for Liverpool and will sail about 5 in the afternoon. 11

+
From b3cb11d128bc8dc94340fdb9fd2a220d9773ef45 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Thurst2165 <59519420+Thurst2165@users.noreply.github.com> Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2022 01:11:51 -0800 Subject: [PATCH 12/15] Update volume4.xml Updated entries from Nov. 17 1896 to Feb. 21. 1897. Pending revision and fixes to comments made that need to be relooked at. Thurston --- diary-volumes/volume4.xml | 117 +++++++++++++++++++------------------- 1 file changed, 60 insertions(+), 57 deletions(-) diff --git a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml index 9396fe494..cbebda0e3 100644 --- a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml +++ b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml @@ -28,7 +28,7 @@ -

Established in 2010, the goals of the Emma B. Andrews Diary Project include the transcription and digitization of a wide range of primary historical material from the 'Golden Age' of Egyptian archaeology at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. A founding partner of Newbook Digital Texts (www.newbookdigitaltexts.org), the EBA Diary Project offers undergraduate and graduate digital humanities education and internships at the University of Washington. Emma B. Andrews is best remembered for her association with the millionaire lawyer turned archaeologist/art and antiquities collector, Theodore M. Davis. Traveling to Egypt with him between 1889 and 1912, she kept detailed journals of these voyages along the Nile, including his important yet under-reported excavations of over 20 significant tombs in the Valley of the Kings. Emma provides a vital commentary on the archaeology and pioneering Egyptologists of the time, painting a revealing picture of the lives of the colonial gentry and the cultural and scientific literati in at the dawn of the twentieth century. Analysis of the content of her diaries, along with a broad range of additional primary source material, will afford scholars information about important historical resources for the first time.

+

Established in 2010, the goals of the Emma B. Andrews Diary Project include the transcription and digitization of a wide range of primary historical material from the 'Golden Age' of Egyptian archaeology at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. A founding partner of Newbook Digital Texts (www.newbookdigitaltexts.org), the EBA Diary Project offers undergraduate and graduate digital humanities education and internships at the University of Washington. Emma B. Andrews is best remembered for her association with the millionaire lawyer turned archaeologist/art and antiquities collector, Theodore M. Davis. Traveling to Egypt with him between 1889 and 1912, she kept detailed journals of these voyages along the Nile, including his important yet under-reported excavations of over 20 significant tombs in the Valley of the Kings. Emma provides a vital commentary on the archaeology and pioneering Egyptologists of the time, painting a revealing picture of the lives of the colonial gentry and the cultural and scientific literati in at the dawn of the twentieth century. Analysis of the content of her diaries, along with a broad range of additional primary source material, will afford scholars information about important historical resources for the first time.

 @@ -37,159 +37,161 @@
- S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896. + S.S. Gens. Nov. 17, 1896. -

S.S. Gens. We sailed at 10 o'clock on Saturday the 14th - Mr. Convers, Mr. Luling and Mr. Jevons were down to see us off. A cold bright morning - and the cold lasted until yesterday - everyone congealed - but we are now in warmer waters - and constant sunshine - I have a large bright room - at a table in which I am writing. The sun looks into my port by day, and the moon by night -for we have fortunately fallen upon the second quarter of the moon. The last thing I do, after having turned out the light at night, is to climb up on the sofa, and take a look at the night, and the wide waste: of blue black water, in which our ship makes its great furrow of dashing white foam - what a beautiful immensity it is, and a grand picture to carry into the oblivion of the night. There are comparatively few passangers - and I have never known such pleasant ones. The Hamilton Fisks of New York - Dr. Doty, the Health Officer of the N. Y. Port, Mrs. Ward Howe Elliot, the daughter of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe - and a Mr. Pratt - now American Consul General at Singapore, and for five years our Minister to Persia - a really cultivated man. We all have tea together in the afternoon, and make very merry - and we have Mrs. Bend of New York and her two daughters at our table. I asked Mr. Pratt how long Benjamin, former Minister to Persia, had lived in that country, and he said 3 years. I said that was rather a short time acquaintance with a country about which to write an exhaustive work. He tole me Benjamin had given great offence to the Shela, and others in his book - and that he had seen absolutely nothing of parts of Persia about which he writes.

+

We sailed at 10 o'clock on Saturday the 14th - Mr. Convers, Mr. Luling and Mr. Jevons were down to see us off. A cold bright morning - and the cold lasted until yesterday - everyone congealed - but we are now in warmer waters - and constant sunshine - I have a large bright room - at a table in which I am writing. The sun looks into my port by day, and the moon by night -for we have fortunately fallen upon the second quarter of the moon. The last thing I do, after having turned out the light at night, is to climb up on the sofa, and take a look at the night, and the wide waste: of blue black water, in which our ship makes its great furrow of dashing white foam - what a beautiful immensity it is, and a grand picture to carry into the oblivion of the night.

+

There are comparatively few passangers - and I have never known such pleasant ones. The Hamilton Fisks of New York - Dr. Doty, the Health Officer of the N. Y. Port, Mrs. Ward Howe Elliot, the daughter of Mrs. Julia Ward Howe - and a Mr. Pratt - now American Consul General at Singapore, and for five years our Minister to Persia - a really cultivated man. We all have tea together in the afternoon, and make very merry - and we have Mrs. Bend of New York and her two daughters at our table. I asked Mr. Pratt how long Benjamin, former Minister to Persia, had lived in that country, and he said 3 years. I said that was rather a short time acquaintance with a country about which to write an exhaustive work. He tole me Benjamin had given great offence to the Shela, and others in his book - and that he had seen absolutely nothing of parts of Persia about which he writes.

Nov. 27. -

We will reach Genoa in a few hours, and I will gladly say au revoir to the sea for 3 or 4 days. It is very cold this morning, but clear. Until we reached Gibraltar our beautiful balmy weather lasted. We passed the Azoros on the 20th - running very close to the large island of San Miguel - very picturesque with its background of mountains, and the steep slopes, some of them quite cultivated to the top - its pleasant looking houses and villages - and the miles of low grass houses, where immense quantities of pineapples are cultivated. On Monday morning the 23d we reached Gibraltar, and went ashore, despite of some threatening clouds. We took Beatrice Bend in our carriage and went as far as Europa Point, but before we again reached the town, rain began to fall, and there was nothing to do but stop at the wretched Hotel Royal, and wait until it was time to go back to the steamer - and there we waited staring out on the same little square where I spent so many hours doing the same thing two years ago. Theodore went out and bought 3 umbrellas - a pair of overshoes for me, and 3 yards of macintosh cloth for us to sit upon on the wet, unprotected decks of the little tender. From that time until last night the gale has raged - and 3 miserable nights have I spent and 2 days in my forward cabin, tossed up and down. Yesterday morning early the 26, we dropped our anchor in the bay of Naples - and in spite of some rain and a high wind, I went ashore with the rest, and spent a pleasant day. The two Bend girls we took immediately to the Grand Hotel, and found pleasant rooms for them, and by the time Mrs. Bend arrived from the PAGE 75 Custom House, we had ordered luncheon, and made a short visit to the Aquarium. How good that lunch was, and how good the stable land was! Then we said goodbye to our friends, and started back to the steamer - stopping a few moments at Squadriblis to buy some shell things. We have had a quiet night, and are running smoothly this morning.

+

We will reach Genoa in a few hours, and I will gladly say au revoir to the sea for 3 or 4 days. It is very cold this morning, but clear. Until we reached Gibraltar our beautiful balmy weather lasted. We passed the Azoros on the 20th - running very close to the large island of San Miguel - very picturesque with its background of mountains, and the steep slopes, some of them quite cultivated to the top - its pleasant looking houses and villages - and the miles of low grass houses, where immense quantities of pineapples are cultivated. On Monday morning the 23d we reached Gibraltar, and went ashore, despite of some threatening clouds. We took Beatrice Bend in our carriage and went as far as Europa Point, but before we again reached the town, rain began to fall, and there was nothing to do but stop at the wretched Hotel Royal, and wait until it was time to go back to the steamer - and there we waited staring out on the same little square where I spent so many hours doing the same thing two years ago. Theodore went out and bought 3 umbrellas - a pair of overshoes for me, and 3 yards of macintosh cloth for us to sit upon on the wet, unprotected decks of the little tender. From that time until last night the gale has raged - and 3 miserable nights have I spent and 2 days in my forward cabin, tossed up and down. Yesterday morning early the 26, we dropped our anchor in the bay of Naples - and in spite of some rain and a high wind, I went ashore with the rest, and spent a pleasant day. The two Bend girls we took immediately to the Grand Hotel, and found pleasant rooms for them, and by the time Mrs. Bend arrived from the Custom House, we had ordered luncheon, and made a short visit to the Aquarium. How good that lunch was, and how good the stable land was! Then we said goodbye to our friends, and started back to the steamer - stopping a few moments at Squadriblis to buy some shell things. We have had a quiet night, and are running smoothly this morning.

- S.S. Freiderick der Grosser. near Port Said. Dec. 6 + S.S. Freiderick der Grosser. near Port Said. Dec. 6 -

I am so thankful that this long voyage has almost come to an end - and that we will arrive at Port Said early tomorrow morning - we reached Genoa on the 27 Nov. just too late to catch the only train to Florence at noon - and after a slight delay at the Custom House, made a long journey through the streets of the town to the "Hotel du Pare" a rather attractive looking ancient Villa standing in large grounds with trees, which might be cheerful on a summers day, but on that chill afternoon, dripping with rain, was truly disconsolate. The palatial rooms and halls, with their tiny fires and enormous windows shaking and rattling in the gale, made us thankful we were only going to stop for the night. The next day we were off for Florence at 12 o'clock - which we reached at 7 P.M. - a weary ride - slow and rough, through never ending tunnels. The girls and Hassan were waiting for us, and went with us to the Grande Bretagne, where we were installed in our old appartment. Florence the next day was cold, but bright. I spent the Sunday morning with Mary shopping - I found her chattering Italian like a native. Theodore and Nettie went to the Uffizzi - PAGE 76 Clarence and Jones to do as much of the town as they could. Lizzie and both girls came to breakfast, and the girls stopped to lunch - after which a drive to Fiesole, and the rest of the time with Lizzie in their pretty little appartment, 2 Via Venezia, and then all came home with us to dinner. Berenson also came to dinner, looking very well. The next day we were off to Genoa again, with Mary along and went for the night to the "Hotel Isotta", much more comfortable than the other. At 2 o'clock the next day we went out to the Frederick the Great - and after enormous trouble and anxiety, through the insufficiency and want of order of the North German Lloyd Co. we succeeded at last in getting all our 30 pieces of luggage out of the Custom House and aboard the steamer - and sailed about 5 o'clock the next morning for Naples. We found the steamer very pleasant, but rather durious in her arrangement. Large as she is she only carries 120 first class passengers - but she carries enormous freight to Australia - her decks are charming - the service and the food very poor. Reached Naples the next morning - rain pouring - everyone else went ashore - I stayed at home - Dr. Peabody and family, Mr. Pratt and Dr. Doty arrived in the afternoon. So did the Kaiser Wilhelm, just from New York, a week later than ourselves. We were at last off on the home stretch for Egypt at 6 P.M. Since then the weather has been bad, and heavy seas until today - which is lovely. In my room during most of the voyage from Genoa.

+

I am so thankful that this long voyage has almost come to an end - and that we will arrive at Port Said early tomorrow morning - we reached Genoa on the 27 Nov. just too late to catch the only train to Florence at noon - and after a slight delay at the Custom House, made a long journey through the streets of the town to the "Hotel du Pare" a rather attractive looking ancient Villa standing in large grounds with trees, which might be cheerful on a summers day, but on that chill afternoon, dripping with rain, was truly disconsolate. The palatial rooms and halls, with their tiny fires and enormous windows shaking and rattling in the gale, made us thankful we were only going to stop for the night. The next day we were off for Florence at 12 o'clock - which we reached at 7 P.M. - a weary ride - slow and rough, through never ending tunnels. The girls and Hassan were waiting for us, and went with us to the Grande Bretagne, where we were installed in our old appartment. Florence the next day was cold, but bright. I spent the Sunday morning with Mary shopping - I found her chattering Italian like a native. Theodore and Nettie went to the Uffizzi - Clarence and Jones to do as much of the town as they could. Lizzie and both girls came to breakfast, and the girls stopped to lunch - after which a drive to Fiesole, and the rest of the time with Lizzie in their pretty little appartment, 2 Via Venezia, and then all came home with us to dinner. Berenson also came to dinner, looking very well. The next day we were off to Genoa again, with Mary along and went for the night to the "Hotel Isotta", much more comfortable than the other. At 2 o'clock the next day we went out to the Frederick the Great - and after enormous trouble and anxiety, through the insufficiency and want of order of the North German Lloyd Co. we succeeded at last in getting all our 30 pieces of luggage out of the Custom House and aboard the steamer - and sailed about 5 o'clock the next morning for Naples. We found the steamer very pleasant, but rather durious in her arrangement. Large as she is she only carries 120 first class passengers - but she carries enormous freight to Australia - her decks are charming - the service and the food very poor. Reached Naples the next morning - rain pouring - everyone else went ashore - I stayed at home - Dr. Peabody and family, Mr. Pratt and Dr. Doty arrived in the afternoon. So did the Kaiser Wilhelm, just from New York, a week later than ourselves. We were at last off on the home stretch for Egypt at 6 P.M. Since then the weather has been bad, and heavy seas until today - which is lovely. In my room during most of the voyage from Genoa.

Shepheards Hotel. Cairo. Dec. 9 - 96 -

PAGE 77 We arrived day before yesterday the 7th at 6 P.M. and took possession of our pleasant old appartment facing the street no. 120 et suite. On the evening of the 6th we passed the Damietta light, and the ship steamed slowly and almost imperceptibly along until she dropped anchor at Port Said about 2 o'clock A.M. There was but little sleep to be had - what with the coaling, the babbling and shrieking outside, and the stir inside - and as the night was warm, and all the doors and ports closed because of the coaling, sleep was far from every one. At 6 o'clock Amilie came to call me, and I was glad to give up the struggle and get up. We had little trouble at the Custom House, and were soon in a clean and very comfortable railway carriage for Ismailia, where we got an excellent lunch at the new hotel established lately by Shepheards, and waited for the Cairo train. We find Shepheards practically empty - and this season is to be a bad one for Egypt I fear. The next morning we had a grand disappointment in finding that our boat was a month behind time - painters and carpenters still at work - the boom not raised, and general helplessness. The English foreman of Thubron is quite ineffectual - and Thubron has shown gross negligence and carelessness. Instead of the boat ready, and in sailing order for the 1st of Dec. as the contract calls for - Thubron has evidently given his whole attention to building gunboats up the river. He has been at Dongola for 3 months - and has allowed the Beduin to care for herself. Theodore with admirable patience made PAGE 78 himself master of facts through the dire confusion of falsehoods and incompetency, and then he went for Thubron and his foreman, with such well directed effort and so much energetic talking, that the foreman is scared out of his life, and the workmen are jumping about like monkeys. I am busy all the time now with an hundred practical details.

+

We arrived day before yesterday the 7th at 6 P.M. and took possession of our pleasant old appartment facing the street no. 120 et suite. On the evening of the 6th we passed the Damietta light, and the ship steamed slowly and almost imperceptibly along until she dropped anchor at Port Said about 2 o'clock A.M. There was but little sleep to be had - what with the coaling, the babbling and shrieking outside, and the stir inside - and as the night was warm, and all the doors and ports closed because of the coaling, sleep was far from every one. At 6 o'clock Amilie came to call me, and I was glad to give up the struggle and get up. We had little trouble at the Custom House, and were soon in a clean and very comfortable railway carriage for Ismailia, where we got an excellent lunch at the new hotel established lately by Shepheards, and waited for the Cairo train. We find Shepheards practically empty - and this season is to be a bad one for Egypt I fear. The next morning we had a grand disappointment in finding that our boat was a month behind time - painters and carpenters still at work - the boom not raised, and general helplessness. The English foreman of Thubron is quite ineffectual - and Thubron has shown gross negligence and carelessness. Instead of the boat ready, and in sailing order for the 1st of Dec. as the contract calls for - Thubron has evidently given his whole attention to building gunboats up the river. He has been at Dongola for 3 months - and has allowed the Beduin to care for herself. Theodore with admirable patience made himself master of facts through the dire confusion of falsehoods and incompetency, and then he went for Thubron and his foreman, with such well directed effort and so much energetic talking, that the foreman is scared out of his life, and the workmen are jumping about like monkeys. I am busy all the time now with an hundred practical details.

Sunday, Dec. 13. -

Mary and Clarence have gone off in the carriage with Salah to see the Tombs of the Mameluks and the Khalifs - Theodore, Dr. Doty and Dr. Peabody, have gone on donkeys to see the dahabeah. We go every day to the boat to watch and direct its progress - and we hope to be able to get off by the 1st of January. The great trouble now is that the furniture was not shipped from England until the 6th of Dec.! We have engaged our old cook Hanna - poor Selim having died here not more than a month ago - Hanna speaks no French or English, but as we have engaged a very promising young Nubian as waiter whom Salah knows very well, and who has lived for years in England, we can get on very well. Ibrahim too is engaged as 2d man and laundress - and my Mohammed Ibrahim is going in no capacity that I can think of, except to learn more English, and if he can, to wait and do domestic work. It is impossible now to tell how much English he knows, as he is so shy and frightened when he trys to speak. Theodore gave a dinner last night, and had Dr. Sandwith and Peabody and Doty. Theodore and I had a delicious drive yesterday in the afternoon to the Ghezireh Palace, and walked about the shady avenues PAGE 79 and among the flowers - stopping to return the visit of Dr. Sandwith and Mrs. Sandwith on our way home.

+

Mary and Clarence have gone off in the carriage with Salah to see the Tombs of the Mameluks and the Khalifs - Theodore, Dr. Doty and Dr. Peabody have gone on donkeys to see the dahabeah. We go every day to the boat to watch and direct its progress - and we hope to be able to get off by the 1st of January. The great trouble now is that the furniture was not shipped from England until the 6th of Dec.! We have engaged our old cook Hanna - poor Selim having died here not more than a month ago - Hanna speaks no French or English, but as we have engaged a very promising young Nubian as waiter whom Salah knows very well, and who has lived for years in England, we can get on very well. Ibrahim too is engaged as 2d man and laundress - and my Mohammed Ibrahim is going in no capacity that I can think of, except to learn more English, and if he can, to wait and do domestic work. It is impossible now to tell how much English he knows, as he is so shy and frightened when he trys to speak

+

Theodore gave a dinner last night, and had Dr. Sandwith and Peabody and Doty. Theodore and I had a delicious drive yesterday in the afternoon to the Ghezireh Palace, and walked about the shady avenues and among the flowers - stopping to return the visit of Dr. Sandwith and Mrs. Sandwith on our way home.

- Ghesireh Palace Hotel. Dec. 27. + Ghesireh Palace Hotel. Dec. 27. -

We left Shepheards this morning and came over here, to escape the smells and noise of Cairo and are so enchanted with the delicious air and space - our rooms are really palatial - and look out on the beautiful garden - and the sitting room opens on a balcony, which the present hot weather makes quite delightful. The sun was so hot this afternoon that the awning was necessary. The house is practically empty - and it is so enormous, that only in the evening after dinner, when everyone congregated in the big hall, that there seems to be anyone here. We are so busy, trying to help along the boat - and there are so many vexatious delays, that our patience is fairly exhausted. I am amazed at Theodore's apparent patience with Thubron and his unprincipled inefficiency. I have never been so long in Cairo before - and I think I am tired of it - if not of Cairo, certainly of the life of hotels - and the dreary people. It is nice to see the interest and enjoyment of Clarence and Mary in everything. I am well - and quite free from cold for the first time in Cairo.

+

We left Shepheards this morning and came over here, to escape the smells and noise of Cairo and are so enchanted with the delicious air and space - our rooms are really palatial - and look out on the beautiful garden - and the sitting room opens on a balcony, which the present hot weather makes quite delightful. The sun was so hot this afternoon that the awning was necessary. The house is practically empty - and it is so enormous, that only in the evening after dinner, when everyone congregated in the big hall, that there seems to be anyone here. We are so busy, trying to help along the boat - and there are so many vexatious delays, that our patience is fairly exhausted. I am amazed at Theodore's apparent patience with Thubron and his unprincipled inefficiency. I have never been so long in Cairo before - and I think I am tired of it - if not of Cairo, certainly of the life of hotels - and the dreary people. It is nice to see the interest and enjoyment of Clarence and Mary in everything. I am well - and quite free from cold for the first time in Cairo.

- Jan. 3. + Second Sunday after Christmas. Jan. 3. -

Second Sunday after Christmas. Still waiting impatiently to get off - some progress has been made during the past week to be sure. The obscure and troublesome - PAGE 80 Jan. 9th - what I intended saying when I began that last sentence, quite a week ago, I have now not the faintest idea. Each day since has been so busy, with tiresome occupations, driving down to the dahabeah through that squalid Boulak-Ramleh quarter - until I am fairly sick with the sight of so much misery that no one can relieve. The long delayed furniture came yesterday - and with much trepidation I saw it unpacked, and if my worst fears were not realized, there were enough disappointments to make it almost unbearable. Chairs too large for the rooms - everything a little too big, or a little too small - the side board entirely forgotten - and I had to get into the carriage with Thubron, and drive to 3 different furniture places before I found a little second hand buffet that freshened and polished, will answer for this winter - then I bought finger bowls, caraffes - liqeur glasses - candlesticks - match boxes - soap dishes etc. etc. etc. Still with all these drawbacks the Beduin is so comfortable and so convenient and pretty, that we are thoroughly happy that on Monday morning we will take possession of her, and at last start up the river. We have had real Cairo winter weather for 10 days - high winds, clouds, occasional sharp rains. These things would not be unbearable - were it not for the discomfort of indoors in such weather. We would never think it possible at home to sit in a room where the thermometer stood at 62° only. But my thermometer has been just there for several days. There is in each of our big rooms, a tiny, ornamented accidental fireplace, between two of the big windows - these are strictly ornamental, and are almost hidden by the magnificent satin draperies of the windows. But two or PAGE 81 three days ago when the wind was high and cold, I asked the waiter if we could have a fire, and it was made, much to the cost of our comfort, for the only draught was out into the room - and if the fuel had been anything but charcoal, the consequences might have been disastrous - as it was, all the wooden mantle was scorched, and the windows had to be opened to clear the room. We learned afterwards that there were no openings at the top to these chimneys - so that the fireplaces were purely pieces of ornamental furniture.

+

Still waiting impatiently to get off - some progress has been made during the past week to be sure. The obscure and troublesome - Jan. 9th - what I intended saying when I began that last sentence, quite a week ago, I have now not the faintest idea. Each day since has been so busy, with tiresome occupations, driving down to the dahabeah through that squalid Boulak-Ramleh quarter - until I am fairly sick with the sight of so much misery that no one can relieve. The long delayed furniture came yesterday - and with much trepidation I saw it unpacked, and if my worst fears were not realized, there were enough disappointments to make it almost unbearable. Chairs too large for the rooms - everything a little too big, or a little too small - the side board entirely forgotten - and I had to get into the carriage with Thubron, and drive to 3 different furniture places before I found a little second hand buffet that freshened and polished, will answer for this winter - then I bought finger bowls, caraffes - liqeur glasses - candlesticks - match boxes - soap dishes etc. etc. etc. Still with all these drawbacks the Beduin is so comfortable and so convenient and pretty, that we are thoroughly happy that on Monday morning we will take possession of her, and at last start up the river. We have had real Cairo winter weather for 10 days - high winds, clouds, occasional sharp rains. These things would not be unbearable - were it not for the discomfort of indoors in such weather. We would never think it possible at home to sit in a room where the thermometer stood at 62° only. But my thermometer has been just there for several days. There is in each of our big rooms, a tiny, ornamented accidental fireplace, between two of the big windows - these are strictly ornamental, and are almost hidden by the magnificent satin draperies of the windows. But two or three days ago when the wind was high and cold, I asked the waiter if we could have a fire, and it was made, much to the cost of our comfort, for the only draught was out into the room - and if the fuel had been anything but charcoal, the consequences might have been disastrous - as it was, all the wooden mantle was scorched, and the windows had to be opened to clear the room. We learned afterwards that there were no openings at the top to these chimneys - so that the fireplaces were purely pieces of ornamental furniture.

- Dahabeah "Beduin". Monday, Jan. 11. 1897. + Dahabeah "Beduin". Monday, Jan. 11. 1897. -

We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to Bedrasheen, where we are now lying. Mary and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the Beduin, under convoy of the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o'clock. Just as we reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our "Beduin" stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her go by - and I heard her pronounced the "handsomest craft on the river". Immediately after lunch, when poor Theodore had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us, until we came down. In the midst of it, Mrs. and Miss Taylor arrived for a parting visit. Then there was the "debbil to pay" as dear old Salah would say, as Theodore PAGE 82 discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as Assiut; they had no food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt blessing from us all to the impossible Thubron, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are happy, if not yet in order.

+

We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to Bedrasheen, where we are now lying. Mary and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the Beduin, under convoy of the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o'clock. Just as we reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our "Beduin" stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her go by - and I heard her pronounced the "handsomest craft on the river". Immediately after lunch, when poor Theodore had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us, until we came down. In the midst of it, Mrs. and Miss Taylor arrived for a parting visit. Then there was the "debbil to pay" as dear old Salah would say, as Theodore discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as Assiut; they had no food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt blessing from us all to the impossible Thubron, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are happy, if not yet in order.

Jan. 12. -

We have made about 18 miles - and are somewhere between Bedreschein and Wasta. The tug proves a worthless thing. She can make about 2 miles with us, an hour, without any assistance from us - but if we have a wind that at all fills our sails, we sail right on to her and she has to cast off. Various "désagrémens" have developed themselves, the most important of which is old Henna, our cook, who was with us for 2 winters on the Herodotus has taken fright at the range in his kitchen, and thinks he can do nothing with it, although he makes much better bread with it, than I have ever known him do before. And, we greatly need the forgotten sideboard - and many rather necessary things have been overlooked. However, we are so pretty and convenient, that we are quite ashamed of ourselves in complaining of anything. My room is entirely charming - and so are all the bedrooms in their pretty chintzs and simple fittings - and the saloon would be a charming interior anywhere - with its Morris green brocades and art fabrics. Then the big upper deck is entirely perfection, with its pretty rugs, its big brown PAGE 83 wicker hooded chairs and easy chairs, with their bright yellow and black cushions and pillows in bandana stuffs. But best of all, the Beduin has proved a rattling good sailor, and there can be no happier man on earth than our Rais Fuli, who for the first time in his life is 1st Captain. He has been twice with us as 2d Captain and we have always said he should be captain of our dahabeah when it was built. He is such a fine specimen of a calm, serene Mohammedan, and has a gentle personal dignity I have never seen equalled. He is a Nubian, knows the river thoroughly, and we could trust him with everything we have. The boat will now be his house summer as well as winter - and he will get ￡3. a month and during the summer feed himself - I think I am as pleased as he is. He has chosen an admirable crew - I never saw so good a one on the Nile - and in their brown cardigans with "Beduin" in blue letters across the breast, they look very well.

+

We have made about 18 miles - and are somewhere between Bedreschein and Wasta. The tug proves a worthless thing. She can make about 2 miles with us, an hour, without any assistance from us - but if we have a wind that at all fills our sails, we sail right on to her and she has to cast off. Various "désagrémens" have developed themselves, the most important of which is old Henna, our cook, who was with us for 2 winters on the Herodotus has taken fright at the range in his kitchen, and thinks he can do nothing with it, although he makes much better bread with it, than I have ever known him do before. And, we greatly need the forgotten sideboard - and many rather necessary things have been overlooked. However, we are so pretty and convenient, that we are quite ashamed of ourselves in complaining of anything. My room is entirely charming - and so are all the bedrooms in their pretty chintzs and simple fittings - and the saloon would be a charming interior anywhere - with its Morris green brocades and art fabrics. Then the big upper deck is entirely perfection, with its pretty rugs, its big brown wicker hooded chairs and easy chairs, with their bright yellow and black cushions and pillows in bandana stuffs. But best of all, the Beduin has proved a rattling good sailor, and there can be no happier man on earth than our Rais Fuli, who for the first time in his life is 1st Captain. He has been twice with us as 2d Captain and we have always said he should be captain of our dahabeah when it was built. He is such a fine specimen of a calm, serene Mohammedan, and has a gentle personal dignity I have never seen equalled. He is a Nubian, knows the river thoroughly, and we could trust him with everything we have. The boat will now be his house summer as well as winter - and he will get ￡3. a month and during the summer feed himself - I think I am as pleased as he is. He has chosen an admirable crew - I never saw so good a one on the Nile - and in their brown cardigans with "Beduin" in blue letters across the breast, they look very well.

Jan. 13. -

Made 23 miles - are now lying near Wasta - day calm, with some head wind - heavy storm of wind during the night - very busy settling.

+

Made 23 miles - are now lying near Wasta - day calm, with some head wind - heavy storm of wind during the night - very busy settling.

Jan. 14. -

Beautiful warm weather - though my self-registering barometer on my little verandah went down to 40° during the night. Passed Benisoef about noon - ran until 8 o'clock this evening, - made 23 miles today.

+

Beautiful warm weather - though my self-registering barometer on my little verandah went down to 40° during the night. Passed Benisoef about noon - ran until 8 o'clock this evening, - made 23 miles today.

Jan. 15. -

PAGE 84 A long run today - starting at 6 A.M. and bringing up at 7 o'clock P.M. within 3 miles of Golasseheh - busy all day - made 57 miles.

+

A long run today - starting at 6 A.M. and bringing up at 7 o'clock P.M. within 3 miles of Golasseheh - busy all day - made 57 miles.

Jan. 16. -

Jan. 16. I wakened before it was light this morning and heard the rippling of the water that showed how fast we were slipping along - but, a little after 7 o'clock we ran into a dense fog - I never saw such a sight before on the Nile - and we pulled up awhile until the hot sun had dissipated it. We passed Minieh at 11 o'clock - and Beni Hassan this afternoon and are now lying at Rhodah having made 51 miles. Some high wind today from the right quarter - and we have had to cast the tug off, but the wind has been fitful. Have passed such lovely palm fringed shores. This morning the usual begging saint from Der el-Tayr, or Mountain of the Bird, swam out to us - and demanded the usual toll. The boat is now in perfect order - and I am now resting from my labors. Thermometer registered last night 45° and today at 2 o'clock 72°. I had my little stove lighted and brought into my room for the first time this morning.

+

I wakened before it was light this morning and heard the rippling of the water that showed how fast we were slipping along - but, a little after 7 o'clock we ran into a dense fog - I never saw such a sight before on the Nile - and we pulled up awhile until the hot sun had dissipated it. We passed Minieh at 11 o'clock - and Beni Hassan this afternoon and are now lying at Rhodah having made 51 miles. Some high wind today from the right quarter - and we have had to cast the tug off, but the wind has been fitful. Have passed such lovely palm fringed shores. This morning the usual begging saint from Der el-Tayr, or Mountain of the Bird, swam out to us - and demanded the usual toll. The boat is now in perfect order - and I am now resting from my labors. Thermometer registered last night 45° and today at 2 o'clock 72°. I had my little stove lighted and brought into my room for the first time this morning.

- Jan. 17. + Jan. 17 Second Sunday after Epiphany. -

Second Sunday after Epiphany. We have only made 20 miles today. There has been but little wind, and what there was, from the wrong quarter. Something was the matter with the tug, and we had to stop for 3 hours to have her tickered. PAGE 85 We are now within 4 miles of Gebel Abou Fedah - day has been overcast, and a little cool. Thermometer last night 42° - today 72°. A remarkable sunset - really the most wonderful and gorgeous in its beauty I ever saw.

+

We have only made 20 miles today. There has been but little wind, and what there was, from the wrong quarter. Something was the matter with the tug, and we had to stop for 3 hours to have her tickered. We are now within 4 miles of Gebel Abou Fedah - day has been overcast, and a little cool. Thermometer last night 42° - today 72°. A remarkable sunset - really the most wonderful and gorgeous in its beauty I ever saw.

Jan. 18. -

A very disappointing day. Thubrons wretched little tug has given out entirely, and been abandoned by us. The Engineer reported early this morning a leak in the boiler - but as that has been the case for several days, it seemed to be no reason that we should not go on in the same slow way. So Theodore went aboard the tug - found that the engineer in order to "see in the boiler" as he said, had taken off the cylinder head, and then found a loose nut kicking about somewhere, and said if he moved their lives would be in danger. There was nothing to do but to leave her, which we did, declining to give the man 2 oars as he wished us to do, to paddle back to Cairo. Day warm and beautiful - sailed for nearly 2 hours in a very light wind and think we have made about 10 miles. On deck until nearly 7 o'clock, watching the radiant moon-rise and the colors on the Gebel Abu-Fedah chain.

+

A very disappointing day. Thubrons wretched little tug has given out entirely, and been abandoned by us. The Engineer reported early this morning a leak in the boiler - but as that has been the case for several days, it seemed to be no reason that we should not go on in the same slow way. So Theodore went aboard the tug - found that the engineer in order to "see in the boiler" as he said, had taken off the cylinder head, and then found a loose nut kicking about somewhere, and said if he moved their lives would be in danger. There was nothing to do but to leave her, which we did, declining to give the man 2 oars as he wished us to do, to paddle back to Cairo. Day warm and beautiful - sailed for nearly 2 hours in a very light wind and think we have made about 10 miles. On deck until nearly 7 o'clock, watching the radiant moon-rise and the colors on the Gebel Abu-Fedah chain.

Jan. 19. -

We began tracking a little after seven o'clock this morning - a very little south wind made it hard work for our poor fellows - but in spite of it, we have made 9 or 10 miles. The English dahabeah Thames passed us in tow about dark. Our people inquired about our tug, and PAGE 86 they answered they had passed her near Hager Kandil, floating down to Cairo. A pleasant little walk this A.M. along the banks of the Bar Jusef canal - larks singing - wheat to my knees.

+

We began tracking a little after seven o'clock this morning - a very little south wind made it hard work for our poor fellows - but in spite of it, we have made 9 or 10 miles. The English dahabeah Thames passed us in tow about dark. Our people inquired about our tug, and they answered they had passed her near Hager Kandil, floating down to Cairo. A pleasant little walk this A.M. along the banks of the Bar Jusef canal - larks singing - wheat to my knees.

Jan. 20. -

A trying day as far as getting on - warm, still and a haze that about noon assumed a rather threatening look. Our fellows have tracked and pulled to the anchor - and in this fashion we have been creeping past the Abu Fedah cliffs this afternoon. A strong north wind sprang up and helped us along, though the weather was so threatening we did not dare hoist a sail. About 6 o'clock the gale broke upon us - but no rain, and we are safely tied up for the night under the lee of a high bank. The air has cleared and the moon shows faintly from a veil of light clouds.

+

A trying day as far as getting on - warm, still and a haze that about noon assumed a rather threatening look. Our fellows have tracked and pulled to the anchor - and in this fashion we have been creeping past the Abu Fedah cliffs this afternoon. A strong north wind sprang up and helped us along, though the weather was so threatening we did not dare hoist a sail. About 6 o'clock the gale broke upon us - but no rain, and we are safely tied up for the night under the lee of a high bank. The air has cleared and the moon shows faintly from a veil of light clouds.

Jan. 21. -

We began sailing at 8 o'clock this morning with a strong north wind - and the Beduin had her first good opportunity to test her true sailing qualities. She behaved splendidly to the great delight of her Captain and her crew, to say nothing of her owner. She sailed on the wind in so fine a fashion, that the crew were enthusiastic. I found the wind too strong on deck, and went below to the entrance deck, where I stood sometime watching the sailors, who were laughing and cheering apostrophising the wind - then the boat - then shaking hands in congratulation. We careered and made more motion than I have ever felt on the PAGE 87 Nile.- but then we had never sailed like that in such a wind before. In the midst of our triumphal progress in making a difficult bend of the river we came in collision with a working or ferry boat, anchored just at the point. Her boom scraped our sides a little to the great distress of Rais Fuli - but no real harm done. In swinging round to avoid as much as possible the shock of the contact, we went aground on the sand - and it was 3 hours before we got off, so that we did not reach Assiut until after 5 P.M. - too late to go into the town - Theodore, Clarence and Jones set off for the P.O. We found waiting for us, the 2 tables from Hatoun's for which we had written - and the box of table linen from Paris. The "Thames" lying opposite Assiut. We made about 30 miles today.

+

We began sailing at 8 o'clock this morning with a strong north wind - and the Beduin had her first good opportunity to test her true sailing qualities. She behaved splendidly to the great delight of her Captain and her crew, to say nothing of her owner. She sailed on the wind in so fine a fashion, that the crew were enthusiastic. I found the wind too strong on deck, and went below to the entrance deck, where I stood sometime watching the sailors, who were laughing and cheering apostrophising the wind - then the boat - then shaking hands in congratulation. We careered and made more motion than I have ever felt on the Nile.- but then we had never sailed like that in such a wind before. In the midst of our triumphal progress in making a difficult bend of the river we came in collision with a working or ferry boat, anchored just at the point. Her boom scraped our sides a little to the great distress of Rais Fuli - but no real harm done. In swinging round to avoid as much as possible the shock of the contact, we went aground on the sand - and it was 3 hours before we got off, so that we did not reach Assiut until after 5 P.M. - too late to go into the town - Theodore, Clarence and Jones set off for the P.O. We found waiting for us, the 2 tables from Hatoun's for which we had written - and the box of table linen from Paris. The "Thames" lying opposite Assiut. We made about 30 miles today.

Jan. 22. -

Mary and I took Abdul this morning, and rowed down to the town, and took a carriage there. We made a few little purchases - drove through the bazaars, to the imminent risk it seemed to me of the lives of everybody there - certainly to their great discomfort. These carriages are an innovation. I have never seen them before. In trying to find some flower pots, I came across a young Egyptian in European dress, who got into the carriage with us, and took us to his garden, where he gave us everything that was in bloom, which was not much, as the gardens are at this season practically dead as to flowers. Among other things he gave us 2 remarkable fruits I had never seen before, which he called "Kishta" or cream. It seems it is an imported delicacy PAGE 88 from the West Indies - the Anona squamosa. I got my pots - but we were not allowed to pay for anything - our young host being an amateur gardiner, and as polite and kind as he could be. After many thanks, we left him and came home, it being too late to go to the American College as I had intended, to inquire about the 2 American women doctors who have lately arrived and about whom I wish to know something. There was no wind to get away - in the afternoon the "Ramesis the Great" from up the river, and the "Ramesis" from Cairo arrived, and were near us. On the former were the Case family from Boston, people who were on the Gens, and whom Theodore knew. They came aboard to see the Beduin. An evening of wonderful beauty and color - with a late full moon rising over the placid water. There are splendid trees - palms and scents all about Assiut.

+

Mary and I took Abdul this morning, and rowed down to the town, and took a carriage there. We made a few little purchases - drove through the bazaars, to the imminent risk it seemed to me of the lives of everybody there - certainly to their great discomfort. These carriages are an innovation. I have never seen them before. In trying to find some flower pots, I came across a young Egyptian in European dress, who got into the carriage with us, and took us to his garden, where he gave us everything that was in bloom, which was not much, as the gardens are at this season practically dead as to flowers. Among other things he gave us 2 remarkable fruits I had never seen before, which he called "Kishta" or cream. It seems it is an imported delicacy from the West Indies - the Anona squamosa. I got my pots - but we were not allowed to pay for anything - our young host being an amateur gardiner, and as polite and kind as he could be. After many thanks, we left him and came home, it being too late to go to the American College as I had intended, to inquire about the 2 American women doctors who have lately arrived and about whom I wish to know something. There was no wind to get away - in the afternoon the "Ramesis the Great" from up the river, and the "Ramesis" from Cairo arrived, and were near us. On the former were the Case family from Boston, people who were on the Gens, and whom Theodore knew. They came aboard to see the Beduin. An evening of wonderful beauty and color - with a late full moon rising over the placid water. There are splendid trees - palms and scents all about Assiut.

- Jan. 23. + Jan. 23d. -

We are still in sight of Assiut - though we have made 5 miles by tracking and pulling to the anchor - the wind when there was any, being dead ahead. Mary and I have been spending the afternoon on my pleasant little verandah - reading and working.

+

We are still in sight of Assiut - though we have made 5 miles by tracking and pulling to the anchor - the wind when there was any, being dead ahead. Mary and I have been spending the afternoon on my pleasant little verandah - reading and working.

- Jan. 24. + Jan. 24. Third Sunday after Epiphany. -

Third Sunday after Epiphany. A day of almost perfect calm - by tracking and polling and using the occasional little puffs of wind, we have made 15 miles. Such beautiful opalescent effects all day - the whole world done in pearly, pink, gray heat. PAGE 89

+

A day of almost perfect calm - by tracking and polling and using the occasional little puffs of wind, we have made 15 miles. Such beautiful opalescent effects all day - the whole world done in pearly, pink, gray heat.

Jan. 25. -

Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o'clock the wind came up, and we got about an hour's sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking and poling, brought us within 10 miles of Tahtah - making 12 miles altogether. The Mena, flying the English flag - and the Elephantine flying the French flag, passed us today - and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°.

+

Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o'clock the wind came up, and we got about an hour's sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking and poling, brought us within 10 miles of Tahtah - making 12 miles altogether. The Mena, flying the English flag - and the Elephantine flying the French flag, passed us today - and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°.

Jan. 26. -

A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are tonight 5 miles from Sohag - passed Tahtah at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and exhilerating, that seems to renew one's life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their animals before them, or dragging them PAGE 90 after. It is no unusual thing to see donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing 3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a time.

+

A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are tonight 5 miles from Sohag - passed Tahtah at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and exhilerating, that seems to renew one's life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their animals before them, or dragging them after. It is no unusual thing to see donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing 3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a time.

Jan. 27. -

Started this morning in a strong wind and came to Sohag just as breakfast was ready. Most of the male population of this good looking thriving town were ranged along the bank above us - we had to stop for mail and butter, which took about an hour - and in the mean time we bought some of the bright Akmim cloths which a merchant was displaying on the bank. They used to be made in Akmim, but I suspect they more often now, come from Birmingham, England. The river here makes a very bad turn, and north and south seem to change places. We came to grief here once before in the Herodotus - and again this morning, our delay of an hour resulted in staying all day near Sohag - for the strong wind at last found us on shore about 2 miles above the town - and opposite Akmim. The wind blew a hurricane all day - and all windows and doors had to be closed to keep out the driving fine sand. Towards evening we pulled to the anchor across the river near Akmim - and would rather have been above than below the town - as the cholera raged at this place during the summer. Made 9 miles.

+

Started this morning in a strong wind and came to Sohag just as breakfast was ready. Most of the male population of this good looking thriving town were ranged along the bank above us - we had to stop for mail and butter, which took about an hour - and in the mean time we bought some of the bright Akmim cloths which a merchant was displaying on the bank. They used to be made in Akmim, but I suspect they more often now, come from Birmingham, England. The river here makes a very bad turn, and north and south seem to change places. We came to grief here once before in the Herodotus - and again this morning, our delay of an hour resulted in staying all day near Sohag - for the strong wind at last found us on shore about 2 miles above the town - and opposite Akmim. The wind blew a hurricane all day - and all windows and doors had to be closed to keep out the driving fine sand. Towards evening we pulled to the anchor across the river near Akmim - and would rather have been above than below the town - as the cholera raged at this place during the summer. Made 9 miles.

Jan. 28. -

We have made 35 miles today - beginning at 6:30 o'clock with a PAGE 91 fair wind that grew so strong we had to lie by at Balliana for more than 2 hours.

+

We have made 35 miles today - beginning at 6:30 o'clock with a fair wind that grew so strong we had to lie by at Balliana for more than 2 hours.

Jan. 29. -

With the exception of Jan. 15, we have made today our best record - 49 miles - and are lying tonight near Keneh. Passed the Philetus - like a dream.

+

With the exception of Jan. 15, we have made today our best record - 49 miles - and are lying tonight near Keneh. Passed the Philetus - like a dream.

@@ -199,104 +201,105 @@
- Jan. 31. Luxor. Fourth Sunday after Epiphany. + Jan. 31. Luxor. Fourth Sunday after Epiphany. -

We made the intervening 12 miles between our landing place of last night and Luxor at 4:30 - having had a variable light wind all day - sometimes no wind, when we tracked and poled. About 11 o'clock, we descried the streamer of a dahabieh in the distance - then her sails, and the sails of 3 more - to our great delight as we have been thirsting for a foe worthy of our steel. We crept slowly along towards them, making Luxor the same time as the Manhattan, and just behind the Zenet-el Nil, the Sesostris and the Ammon Ra - in front of which last we tied up, just below the Castle. The rest went into the town, and I stayed to enjoy the quiet of our dahabeah and our beautiful deck - and the wonders of the setting sun - and the shadows creeping over the mountains. Heaps of letters and newspapers. PAGE 92

+

We made the intervening 12 miles between our landing place of last night and Luxor at 4:30 - having had a variable light wind all day - sometimes no wind, when we tracked and poled. About 11 o'clock, we descried the streamer of a dahabieh in the distance - then her sails, and the sails of 3 more - to our great delight as we have been thirsting for a foe worthy of our steel. We crept slowly along towards them, making Luxor the same time as the Manhattan, and just behind the Zenet-el Nil, the Sesostris and the Ammon Ra - in front of which last we tied up, just below the Castle. The rest went into the town, and I stayed to enjoy the quiet of our dahabeah and our beautiful deck - and the wonders of the setting sun - and the shadows creeping over the mountains. Heaps of letters and newspapers.

- Feb. 3. Luxor. + Feb. 3. Luxor. -

We have had a tremendously high wind for 2 days - yesterday neither Mary nor I stirred from the boat. Although protected by the high bank, we were really buffetted about and the waves race high - everything was kept closed - doors, windows, screens and tambooshes - but in spite of all the dust penetrated everywhere - though to a much less degree than in any other boat I have been on. Across the river, the sand obscured the sight of the mountains at times - and I was sorry for the Cookites, who were swarming on the sands, starting for their various excursions - for 2 or 3 steamers are in - and of course their passengers cannot wait for more favorable weather. Mary and I this morning climbed up the high bank, with the intention of walking back into the country - but our skirts blew over our heads, our hats off our heads - and our eyes were blinded with sand - so that we soon gave up the contest and came home, glad to finish our walk on the sheltered deck. Salah came to see us soon after our arrival, very proud of us, and of our sailing record. He is almost willing to let us beat his Zenet-el Nil -M. Goleinschief's boat, of which he has charge. Old Mohammed Mohassib also came one evening - excessively pleased - and we presented our little gifts to him. Theodore reports Karnak in the hands of the Excavation Society - I have not yet seen it. Mr. Baldwin who is on the Ammon-Ra, with his wife, and son-in-law, Dr. Grinell - was here today. Mrs. Baldwin is very wretched since she came on the river. They want us to start for Assouan when they do. The Fell party on the Zenet-el-Fil go back to Cairo from here - much to Salah's PAGE 93 disgust. This morning we had a visit from Rev. Mr. Huhatt - the English clergyman at Luxor, and Mr. Coulson - they begged us to go to the Luxor Hotel to a "Cinderella Fancy Dress" Ball for the benefit of the little Hospital here. Theodore made no promises, but took several tickets. Ramadan begins today - very early this year.

+

We have had a tremendously high wind for 2 days - yesterday neither Mary nor I stirred from the boat. Although protected by the high bank, we were really buffetted about and the waves race high - everything was kept closed - doors, windows, screens and tambooshes - but in spite of all the dust penetrated everywhere - though to a much less degree than in any other boat I have been on. Across the river, the sand obscured the sight of the mountains at times - and I was sorry for the Cookites, who were swarming on the sands, starting for their various excursions - for 2 or 3 steamers are in - and of course their passengers cannot wait for more favorable weather. Mary and I this morning climbed up the high bank, with the intention of walking back into the country - but our skirts blew over our heads, our hats off our heads - and our eyes were blinded with sand - so that we soon gave up the contest and came home, glad to finish our walk on the sheltered deck. Salah came to see us soon after our arrival, very proud of us, and of our sailing record. He is almost willing to let us beat his Zenet-el Nil - M. Goleinschief's boat, of which he has charge. Old Mohammed Mohassib also came one evening - excessively pleased - and we presented our little gifts to him. Theodore reports Karnak in the hands of the Excavation Society - I have not yet seen it. Mr. Baldwin who is on the Ammon-Ra, with his wife, and son-in-law, Dr. Grinell - was here today. Mrs. Baldwin is very wretched since she came on the river. They want us to start for Assouan when they do. The Fell party on the Zenet-el-Fil go back to Cairo from here - much to Salah's disgust. This morning we had a visit from Rev. Mr. Huhatt - the English clergyman at Luxor, and Mr. Coulson - they begged us to go to the Luxor Hotel to a "Cinderella Fancy Dress" Ball for the benefit of the little Hospital here. Theodore made no promises, but took several tickets. Ramadan begins today - very early this year.

- Luxor. Feb. 5. + Luxor. Feb. 5. -

Yesterday afternoon we rode over to Medinet Habout - very warm going - this splendid temple has been much excavated since I saw it last. Today we had our photographs taken by old Beato, who afterwards came into the boat to see it - and was loud in praises of it. Then we pulled across the river to the gizereh, and went again to Medinet, where we had lunch - and afterwards rode over the burning desert to Der el Bahari -leaving Mary at Medinet to finish her sketches It was very hot - and I am well tired tonight.

+

Yesterday afternoon we rode over to Medinet Habout - very warm going - this splendid temple has been much excavated since I saw it last. Today we had our photographs taken by old Beato, who afterwards came into the boat to see it - and was loud in praises of it. Then we pulled across the river to the gizereh, and went again to Medinet, where we had lunch - and afterwards rode over the burning desert to Der el Bahari -leaving Mary at Medinet to finish her sketches It was very hot - and I am well tired tonight.

Feb. 6. -

We did not much want to leave Luxor this morning - but as Mrs. Baldwin has religious scruples about starting on Sunday - it was today or next week - and as Theodore is anxious to test the sailing qualities of the Beduin with the Ammon-Re, Cooks best and largest boat, we left about noon, twenty minutes or more after they were under way - the wind was very light, but in an hour we had easily overtaken and passed her, to the intense disgust of her men, and the delight of our own. Indeed Rais Fuli, with his calm, serene manner repressed the too PAGE 94 exultant manner of our men - though it must have been the triumph of his own life. About 6 o'clock after much tracking we pulled up near Erment where we now are. I was rather sorry to leave Luxor so soon. We had one very busy day while there - to Karnak in the morning - the races in the afternoon - Mr. and Mrs. Huhatt, Mr. and Mrs. Brown - Miss Scott - and Miss Norton, to tea at 5 o'clock, and Laura Billings and her sister and Mr. Fahenstock of New York to dine in the evening. We had a lovely dinner - and I had some splendid red roses from the Luxor Hotel. This morning before leaving, I went to the Roman Catholic Italian Convent, to see if it were possible to arrange for Zenobia, my little arab child here in whom we have been much interested, to enter the school. I had an interview with the Mother Superior, or rather Mary had, for she could speak only Italian. We found the cleanest, quietest place I have ever seen in Luxor - pleasant airy courts, good gardens - and everything so spotlessly clean - the the Superior herself, clean, fat and sweet as she could be - and strongly reminding us of "The Abbess" of Moroni - a photograph of which I brought with me from home. Zenobia, her father, and her sister, now married - the sweet child of 2 years ago, were at the boat this morning. The sister well clothed, in the usual Arab fashion - veiled as becomes a married woman - and Zenobia as pretty and taking, and round and brown, as she used to be. I fear it will be impossible to get her into the Italian school - but I may succeed with the American Mission school when I go down. I would like to lift the child somewhat out of her dirt and poverty. For the first time at Luxor, I rode in one of the carriages, PAGE 95 2 or 3 of which are supplied by the Hotel - and I felt almost ashamed of myself - one doesn't like to see such unnecessary innovations.

+

We did not much want to leave Luxor this morning - but as Mrs. Baldwin has religious scruples about starting on Sunday - it was today or next week - and as Theodore is anxious to test the sailing qualities of the Beduin with the Ammon-Re, Cooks best and largest boat, we left about noon, twenty minutes or more after they were under way - the wind was very light, but in an hour we had easily overtaken and passed her, to the intense disgust of her men, and the delight of our own. Indeed Rais Fuli, with his calm, serene manner repressed the too exultant manner of our men - though it must have been the triumph of his own life. About 6 o'clock after much tracking we pulled up near Erment where we now are. I was rather sorry to leave Luxor so soon. We had one very busy day while there - to Karnak in the morning - the races in the afternoon - Mr. and Mrs. Huhatt, Mr. and Mrs. Brown - Miss Scott - and Miss Norton, to tea at 5 o'clock, and Laura Billings and her sister and Mr. Fahenstock of New York to dine in the evening. We had a lovely dinner - and I had some splendid red roses from the Luxor Hotel. This morning before leaving, I went to the Roman Catholic Italian Convent, to see if it were possible to arrange for Zenobia, my little arab child here in whom we have been much interested, to enter the school. I had an interview with the Mother Superior, or rather Mary had, for she could speak only Italian. We found the cleanest, quietest place I have ever seen in Luxor - pleasant airy courts, good gardens - and everything so spotlessly clean - the the Superior herself, clean, fat and sweet as she could be - and strongly reminding us of "The Abbess" of Moroni - a photograph of which I brought with me from home. Zenobia, her father, and her sister, now married - the sweet child of 2 years ago, were at the boat this morning. The sister well clothed, in the usual Arab fashion - veiled as becomes a married woman - and Zenobia as pretty and taking, and round and brown, as she used to be. I fear it will be impossible to get her into the Italian school - but I may succeed with the American Mission school when I go down. I would like to lift the child somewhat out of her dirt and poverty. For the first time at Luxor, I rode in one of the carriages, 2 or 3 of which are supplied by the Hotel - and I felt almost ashamed of myself - one doesn't like to see such unnecessary innovations.

- Feb. 7. + Feb. 7. Fifth Sunday after Epiphany. -

Fifth Sunday after Epiphany. We stopped a short time at the Erment garden to get oranges and lemons this morning, and the Ammon-Ra passed ahead - light wind and calms most of the day. We overtook the Ammon-Ra and sailed her out of sight. Tied up at Esneh at 7:30 - but the wind coming out strong at 9 o'clock, we pulled up our stakes, and were off and did not stop until one o'clock, when we pulled up at Al-Kab having made in all 41 miles. The nights have now a wonderful beauty. A little new moon appeared 3 nights ago - and Venus is resplendent - and so is Sirius. Yesterday and today warm.

+

We stopped a short time at the Erment garden to get oranges and lemons this morning, and the Ammon-Ra passed ahead - light wind and calms most of the day. We overtook the Ammon-Ra and sailed her out of sight. Tied up at Esneh at 7:30 - but the wind coming out strong at 9 o'clock, we pulled up our stakes, and were off and did not stop until one o'clock, when we pulled up at Al-Kab having made in all 41 miles. The nights have now a wonderful beauty. A little new moon appeared 3 nights ago - and Venus is resplendent - and so is Sirius. Yesterday and today warm.

Feb. 8th. -

Did not sail early this morning - and as we began tracking about 11, the Ammon-Ra appeared in sight. At 2 o'clock we pulled up at Al-Kab, to see Mr. Somers-Clarke - who is living there on his dahabeah at work at excavations. He came on the Beduin for a short visit, and it was quite an hour before we got away, the A.R. being by that time more than a mile in advance - before an hour had gone by, we had caught and passed her. Passed Edfou about 5 o'clock - what beautiful wide country - what splendid great domes of sycamore trees! We have come about 5 miles above Edfou - and have made 24 miles today. The Beduin seems to sail almost without wind - so smoothly she glided along PAGE 96 mile after mile this evening, through the glittering moon lit water, without a ripple, other than she made.

+

Did not sail early this morning - and as we began tracking about 11, the Ammon-Ra appeared in sight. At 2 o'clock we pulled up at Al-Kab, to see Mr. Somers-Clarke - who is living there on his dahabeah at work at excavations. He came on the Beduin for a short visit, and it was quite an hour before we got away, the A.R. being by that time more than a mile in advance - before an hour had gone by, we had caught and passed her. Passed Edfou about 5 o'clock - what beautiful wide country - what splendid great domes of sycamore trees! We have come about 5 miles above Edfou - and have made 24 miles today. The Beduin seems to sail almost without wind - so smoothly she glided along mile after mile this evening, through the glittering moon lit water, without a ripple, other than she made.

Feb. 9. -

I do not know how we have made 23 miles today - it has been so calm with so little wind - but at 7 o'clock we passed Silsilis, and are now lying 2 miles above - such a perfect night and so warm. We crept silently along by the dangerous Silsileh rocks, as it was growing dark, and I never saw a more beautiful scene - the water without a ripple - everything bathed in moonlight - and Venus almost as bright as the moon. Ammon-Ra came up later and tied up behind us - and before we had finished dinner Dr. and Mrs. Grinell came over. Busy all day, writing and working, having succeeded in rousing myself out of my long indolence.

+

I do not know how we have made 23 miles today - it has been so calm with so little wind - but at 7 o'clock we passed Silsilis, and are now lying 2 miles above - such a perfect night and so warm. We crept silently along by the dangerous Silsileh rocks, as it was growing dark, and I never saw a more beautiful scene - the water without a ripple - everything bathed in moonlight - and Venus almost as bright as the moon. Ammon-Ra came up later and tied up behind us - and before we had finished dinner Dr. and Mrs. Grinell came over. Busy all day, writing and working, having succeeded in rousing myself out of my long indolence.

Feb. 10. -

A hot calm day - a little tracking this A.M. then laid up, with the Ammon-Ra just behind us. Thermometer at 86° in the afternoon. At 7 came a good wind and we were off, and sailed until 9 o'clock - 2 miles above Kom Ombo which was beautiful as we passed it in the moonlight - made 15 miles.

+

A hot calm day - a little tracking this A.M. then laid up, with the Ammon-Ra just behind us. Thermometer at 86° in the afternoon. At 7 came a good wind and we were off, and sailed until 9 o'clock - 2 miles above Kom Ombo which was beautiful as we passed it in the moonlight - made 15 miles.

- Feb. 11. + Feb. 11. Thuesday. Assouan. -

Thuesday. Assouan. Arrived at 10:30 this morning - having started at 6 o'clock, with the Ammon-Ra and Manhattan within sight behind us - and made 23 miles in 4 hours -having lost sight of both boats. Passed the Gazelle PAGE 97 just below Assouan on her way down. Found the "Sesestris", "Istan", "Philetus" and "Thames" here at Elephantine - and now that the "Ammon-Ra" and "Manhattan" have arrived, we make 7 dahabeahs here. The Philetus started this afternoon for the ascent of the Cataract. Sailed in the felucca towards the Cataract, rowing home. This scenery and these rocks never lose in vividness of expression - and the same beautiful afterglow, that I always associate with Assouan.

+

Arrived at 10:30 this morning - having started at 6 o'clock, with the Ammon-Ra and Manhattan within sight behind us - and made 23 miles in 4 hours - having lost sight of both boats. Passed the Gazelle just below Assouan on her way down. Found the "Sesestris", "Istan", "Philetus" and "Thames" here at Elephantine - and now that the "Ammon-Ra" and "Manhattan" have arrived, we make 7 dahabeahs here. The Philetus started this afternoon for the ascent of the Cataract. Sailed in the felucca towards the Cataract, rowing home. This scenery and these rocks never lose in vividness of expression - and the same beautiful afterglow, that I always associate with Assouan.

Feb. 12. -

Went over to Philae by train - Mary and I - with all our entourage of servants and sailors and hampers - Theodore and Clarence following later on their donkeys, in time for lunch. I found Yemma waiting for me, having heard through one of our sailors that we would arrive. He is little grown - and is really a very efficient little guide - Dendowi too, the unapproachable - who appropriated Mary for the day. Newmans not here this year. Mary at once selected an eligible spot for painting and set to work - and after wandering about and photographing all the children and Mohammet the sailor, I established myself in the long colonnade near Mary, out of the sun, and wind - and read - while Jones and Ibrahim got the lunch ready - I made Yemma and the children sing for me - and when I grew tired of their shouting, I begged them to sing me something soft and low - and they sang squatted on the ground about me, the song I always call the cataract song - as one hears it about here all the time - they sang it softly - in a constantly recurring refrain, putting their heads on their hand to express PAGE 98 sleep - I asked Yemma what the song was, and they all replied that it was the "Dongola" song - and when I asked what it meant, Yemma replied that it was a slumber song (though of course these are not his words) that the mother was singing the baby to sleep - and was telling him not to be afraid, although there was war and fighting in Dongola, here it was safe and quiet - to sleep and not fear. I thought it very pretty, but I believe one song is used for various words. After lunch we walked about, and climbed to the roof of the temple - where of course the views were delicious - and the birds eye view of the island gave a very good idea of the extent of Capt. Lyons work and explorations of last year. Dr. and Mrs. Grinnell also lunched out there but they were in Pharaoh's Bed. We came home by one of the Cataract boats -bringing Yemma and Dendowi with us to show them the boat - then sent them back. They were such amusing little guests.

+

Went over to Philae by train - Mary and I - with all our entourage of servants and sailors and hampers - Theodore and Clarence following later on their donkeys, in time for lunch. I found Yemma waiting for me, having heard through one of our sailors that we would arrive. He is little grown - and is really a very efficient little guide - Dendowi too, the unapproachable - who appropriated Mary for the day. Newmans not here this year. Mary at once selected an eligible spot for painting and set to work - and after wandering about and photographing all the children and Mohammet the sailor, I established myself in the long colonnade near Mary, out of the sun, and wind - and read - while Jones and Ibrahim got the lunch ready - I made Yemma and the children sing for me - and when I grew tired of their shouting, I begged them to sing me something soft and low - and they sang squatted on the ground about me, the song I always call the cataract song - as one hears it about here all the time - they sang it softly - in a constantly recurring refrain, putting their heads on their hand to express sleep - I asked Yemma what the song was, and they all replied that it was the "Dongola" song - and when I asked what it meant, Yemma replied that it was a slumber song (though of course these are not his words) that the mother was singing the baby to sleep - and was telling him not to be afraid, although there was war and fighting in Dongola, here it was safe and quiet - to sleep and not fear. I thought it very pretty, but I believe one song is used for various words. After lunch we walked about, and climbed to the roof of the temple - where of course the views were delicious - and the birds eye view of the island gave a very good idea of the extent of Capt. Lyons work and explorations of last year. Dr. and Mrs. Grinnell also lunched out there but they were in Pharaoh's Bed. We came home by one of the Cataract boats -bringing Yemma and Dendowi with us to show them the boat - then sent them back. They were such amusing little guests.

Feb. 17. -

Before 5 o'clock this morning, I heard the preparations for departure. Our splendid big boom was taken down the day we spent at Philae - and for 2 or 3 days the boat has been getting ready for her downward journey. We have had a lovely week at Assouan - the pleasantest I have ever known - at our same old landing, with the same views before us, we felt quite at home. Assouan has greatly improved since we were here, the river front has been faced with stone, and steps made here and there to the water. The main street following the river bank is now clean, and quite well built, with some good government houses, PAGE 99 which with the hotel, give a very bright, clean look. It is very quiet almost no soldiers at the garrison - all having gone to the front. I like the air here better than any place along the river - it is so pure and so entirely from the desert, there being so little vegetation here. A day or two after we arrived, Prof. Sayce and Lord Fitz-Hardinge came to call. The Fitz-Hardinges have the little Thames which they built years ago - and Prof. Sayce on his Istar, was just behind us. A nice, entertaining young fellow with the Fitz-Hardinges, Dr. Bridgman, who found him an enthusiastic gardener, and the only person I ever met who could tell me anything about horticulture in Egypt. We had Prof. Sayce one evening to dinner - and found him very interesting -telling us a great many things we wanted to know. We left Lord Fitz-Hardinge very ill - with threatened pneumonia. He has during the past year succeeded to the title, we having formerly known of him as Hon. Mr. Berkeley. With this title which is one of the oldest in England, dating from the time of King Stephen, he has become owner of Berkeley Castle one of the most interesting historical Castles of England, and also to an income of ￡70,00 a year. He has no children, he and his wife are past 60 - have very quiet tastes - devoted to church work - schools and charities, and terribly depressed by this change of fortune, which breaks up old habits, and entails so much state and responsibility for which they have no liking. The next heir, is Lord Berkeley of Oxford - a man no longer young - no children, and who cares only for chemistry and geology - and devoutly dreads the day when he shall succeed. - Next to him is an unmarried woman not young, the oldest of 9 children of a clergyman, who has just 600 ￡s PAGE 100 to spend a year! Prof. Sayce on the Istar, started down at the same time we did this morning - but he told us yesterday, that he would float faster than we could, as his boat is heavy, with a keel - one of the heavy, old fashioned wooden boats, which would not have the ghost of a chance with us in sailing. We have floated against the wind, but with so little progress that at 7 this morning we stopped judging we have made about 15 miles. We are lying in the cove of the bend of the river, at anchor, some distance from shore, with the "Istar" near below, her lights showing hospitably against this desert shore. The night most resplendent, the moon full and the great yellow sand drifts over the mountain sides, glowing with almost as much color as they do by day. I would not have my blinds closed, and slept with all the curtains back from the windows that I might get all the outside beauty possible - and waking several times during the night, I sat up in my bed and looked out at it all. What beautiful, resplendent loneliness!

+

Before 5 o'clock this morning, I heard the preparations for departure. Our splendid big boom was taken down the day we spent at Philae - and for 2 or 3 days the boat has been getting ready for her downward journey. We have had a lovely week at Assouan - the pleasantest I have ever known - at our same old landing, with the same views before us, we felt quite at home. Assouan has greatly improved since we were here, the river front has been faced with stone, and steps made here and there to the water. The main street following the river bank is now clean, and quite well built, with some good government houses, which with the hotel, give a very bright, clean look. It is very quiet almost no soldiers at the garrison - all having gone to the front. I like the air here better than any place along the river - it is so pure and so entirely from the desert, there being so little vegetation here. A day or two after we arrived, Prof. Sayce and Lord Fitz-Hardinge came to call. The Fitz-Hardinges have the little Thames which they built years ago - and Prof. Sayce on his Istar, was just behind us. A nice, entertaining young fellow with the Fitz-Hardinges, Dr. Bridgman, who found him an enthusiastic gardener, and the only person I ever met who could tell me anything about horticulture in Egypt. We had Prof. Sayce one evening to dinner - and found him very interesting - telling us a great many things we wanted to know. We left Lord Fitz-Hardinge very ill - with threatened pneumonia. He has during the past year succeeded to the title, we having formerly known of him as Hon. Mr. Berkeley. With this title which is one of the oldest in England, dating from the time of King Stephen, he has become owner of Berkeley Castle one of the most interesting historical Castles of England, and also to an income of ￡70,000 a year. He has no children, he and his wife are past 60 - have very quiet tastes - devoted to church work - schools and charities, and terribly depressed by this change of fortune, which breaks up old habits, and entails so much state and responsibility for which they have no liking. The next heir, is Lord Berkeley of Oxford - a man no longer young - no children, and who cares only for chemistry and geology - and devoutly dreads the day when he shall succeed. - Next to him is an unmarried woman not young, the oldest of 9 children of a clergyman, who has just 600 ￡s to spend a year! Prof. Sayce on the Istar, started down at the same time we did this morning - but he told us yesterday, that he would float faster than we could, as his boat is heavy, with a keel - one of the heavy, old fashioned wooden boats, which would not have the ghost of a chance with us in sailing. We have floated against the wind, but with so little progress that at 7 this morning we stopped judging we have made about 15 miles. We are lying in the cove of the bend of the river, at anchor, some distance from shore, with the "Istar" near below, her lights showing hospitably against this desert shore. The night most resplendent, the moon full and the great yellow sand drifts over the mountain sides, glowing with almost as much color as they do by day. I would not have my blinds closed, and slept with all the curtains back from the windows that I might get all the outside beauty possible - and waking several times during the night, I sat up in my bed and looked out at it all. What beautiful, resplendent loneliness!

Feb. 18. -

We made about 3 miles, starting at half past 6 this morning, but this wretched north wind increasing we gave it up, and lay again in the stream as the shore was so sandy - the Istar almost a mile below us. Prof. Sayce sent over a note, asking us to come to tea - which we did going down in the felucca - very hard rowing against the wind, even with the current, and there really were waves. We had a charming visit Prof. S. Showing us some of his interesting works on Egypt - Belzoni's splendid great volume, with hand painted pictures of the temples and PAGE 101 tombs - his rendering of the hieroglyphs, being remarkably accurate, though at that time there was no key to them - and of course he was ignorant of their meaning - and it was like copying any other detail of decoration. The great Napeonic work, of the French Scientific Expedition which I had never seen before - the travels of Ligh, the Englishman a copy of which Howard Amory gave me from his grandfather's library, and others - one an account of travel written by and Italian "del Valle" in 16____. The Istar is a big, old fashioned boat, and looked most comfortable - 20 ft. wide. We and Cooks new boats are 17 ft. This width gives her a beautiful saloon, and a wide corridor to the stern cabin, which is also very large, and fitted as a library - with bookcases to the ceiling - a charming, scholarly room - and here Prof. S. says he really does his work for the whole year. Another wonderful night but the wind as strong as ever - and we are rocking uncomfortably - indeed I never rocked so much on the river as we have been doing all day.

+

We made about 3 miles, starting at half past 6 this morning, but this wretched north wind increasing we gave it up, and lay again in the stream as the shore was so sandy - the Istar almost a mile below us. Prof. Sayce sent over a note, asking us to come to tea - which we did going down in the felucca - very hard rowing against the wind, even with the current, and there really were waves. We had a charming visit Prof. S. Showing us some of his interesting works on Egypt - Belzoni's splendid great volume, with hand painted pictures of the temples and tombs - his rendering of the hieroglyphs, being remarkably accurate, though at that time there was no key to them - and of course he was ignorant of their meaning - and it was like copying any other detail of decoration. The great Napeonic work, of the French Scientific Expedition which I had never seen before - the travels of Ligh, the Englishman a copy of which Howard Amory gave me from his grandfather's library, and others - one an account of travel written by an Italian "del Valle" in 16 . The Istar is a big, old fashioned boat, and looked most comfortable - 20 ft. wide. We and Cooks new boats are 17 ft. This width gives her a beautiful saloon, and a wide corridor to the stern cabin, which is also very large, and fitted as a library - with bookcases to the ceiling - a charming, scholarly room - and here Prof. S. says he really does his work for the whole year. Another wonderful night but the wind as strong as ever - and we are rocking uncomfortably - indeed I never rocked so much on the river as we have been doing all day.

Friday. Feb. 19. -

We began the morning very early with a light wind, but it soon changed into a big blow - and we were soon driven upon the lee bank, where we pounded up and down in the sand, until Theodore suggested an anchor put out at the stern when we were more comfortable. I have just finished reading Stevenson's "South-Sea Sketches", and a second reading of his Vailima Letters - and are now going to read Ebb Tide. A great blow going on. PAGE 102

+

We began the morning very early with a light wind, but it soon changed into a big blow - and we were soon driven upon the lee bank, where we pounded up and down in the sand, until Theodore suggested an anchor put out at the stern when we were more comfortable. I have just finished reading Stevenson's "South-Sea Sketches", and a second reading of his Vailima Letters - and are now going to read Ebb Tide. A great blow going on.

Feb. 20. -

Feb. 20. I had quite an attack of neuralgia or rheumatism in my back and chest last night, which kept me from sleeping - and finding when my morning cup of tea was brought me at 7 o'clock - that the gale was still blowing and the boat rocking, I decided after having my bath to go back to bed, and have my breakfast. Wind continued all day, and weather hopeless. I began reading Prof. Sayce's "Egypt of the Hebrews". Last night we got away from our lee shore, and took refuge on the opposite side of the river, where we are now lying, more quietly. Read aloud a long time in Milner's "England in Egypt".

+

I had quite an attack of neuralgia or rheumatism in my back and chest last night, which kept me from sleeping - and finding when my morning cup of tea was brought me at 7 o'clock - that the gale was still blowing and the boat rocking, I decided after having my bath to go back to bed, and have my breakfast. Wind continued all day, and weather hopeless. I began reading Prof. Sayce's "Egypt of the Hebrews". Last night we got away from our lee shore, and took refuge on the opposite side of the river, where we are now lying, more quietly. Read aloud a long time in Milner's "England in Egypt".

Feb. 21. Sexagesima Sunday. -

The men rowed, or we floated all the latter part of the night until 7 this morning, when I saw Kom Ombo directly in front of us. A fine all around view of it, perched so high on its cliff - we pulled up soon, and after breakfast went up to the Temple - it is charming in its height, though not specially interesting; and is certainly very much swept and garnished. The wind falling, we decided not to linger, but pushed off, just as Gage's Steamer "Memphis" was coming up to her landing. Passed the Istar lying by a little below Kom Ombo. This is our 5th day from Assouan, and we have only covered 29 miles.

+

The men rowed, or we floated all the latter part of the night until 7 this morning, when I saw Kom Ombo directly in front of us. A fine all around view of it, perched so high on its cliff - we pulled up soon, and after breakfast went up to the Temple - it is charming in its height, though not specially interesting; and is certainly very much swept and garnished. The wind falling, we decided not to linger, but pushed off, just as Gage's Steamer "Memphis" was coming up to her landing. Passed the Istar lying by a little below Kom Ombo. This is our 5th day from Assouan, and we have only covered 29 miles.

Feb. 22. Monday. -

We were off before 6 o'clock this morning - rowing - and in the face of the north wind which still holds with more or less fitfullness - PAGE 103 we passed Silsilis about 3 o'clock - but did not stop, as we are so belated. About an hour afterwards we had gained very much upon the Istar - and our men were pulling lustily - when the order from the Rais was suddenly given to stop, and in a moment after, we went rather hard upon a sand bank - which delayed us about an hour - when we went on until 7 o'clock - apparently by the light of Venus, almost as good as a moon. We tied up at a pleasant bank under some scent trees, having come between 3 and 4 miles below Silsilis - making today 15 miles. It is so easy to tell who is keeping Ramadan. Quite a proportion of crew are and they are so solemn and melancholy. Our nice Mathar, the 2d captain, hasn't even a smile - Rais Fuli, and he, and 5 or 6 of the crew, are carefully keeping it.

+

We were off before 6 o'clock this morning - rowing - and in the face of the north wind which still holds with more or less fitfullness - we passed Silsilis about 3 o'clock - but did not stop, as we are so belated. About an hour afterwards we had gained very much upon the Istar - and our men were pulling lustily - when the order from the Rais was suddenly given to stop, and in a moment after, we went rather hard upon a sand bank - which delayed us about an hour - when we went on until 7 o'clock - apparently by the light of Venus, almost as good as a moon. We tied up at a pleasant bank under some scent trees, having come between 3 and 4 miles below Silsilis - making today 15 miles. It is so easy to tell who is keeping Ramadan. Quite a proportion of crew are and they are so solemn and melancholy. Our nice Mathar, the 2d captain, hasn't even a smile - Rais Fuli, and he, and 5 or 6 of the crew, are carefully keeping it.

Tuesday Feb. 23. -

We have allowed ourselves just a month from today to reach Cairo - there will be so much to do there about changes in the boat, and getting her ready to leave her, that the 10 days between March 23 and April 3d when we leave for Hrindisi will not be more than we need. But this north wind must cease blowing! This morning we started out before 6 - and when Ainely came to my room, she reported the Istar some distance in advance of us, and another dahabeah. We are wondering if it can be the Gazelle, which left Assouan, the day we arrived. Yesterday the Nephtis passed up, with the Duke of Hamilton on board. His own flag I suppose at the mast, yellow, with a grimping lion - very effective. He has only lately succeeded to the title we were told - and jumped from a lieutenant in the navy to his present titles and possessions. A pleasant thing. Reached El Kab - 36 miles.

+

We have allowed ourselves just a month from today to reach Cairo - there will be so much to do there about changes in the boat, and getting her ready to leave her, that the 10 days between March 23 and April 3d when we leave for Hrindisi will not be more than we need. But this north wind must cease blowing! This morning we started out before 6 - and when Ainely came to my room, she reported the Istar some distance in advance of us, and another dahabeah. We are wondering if it can be the Gazelle, which left Assouan, the day we arrived. Yesterday the Nephtis passed up, with the Duke of Hamilton on board. His own flag I suppose at the mast, yellow, with a grimping lion - very effective. He has only lately succeeded to the title we were told - and jumped from a lieutenant in the navy to his present titles and possessions. A pleasant thing. Reached El Kab - 36 miles.

+
From ccff920f85f6b783899c6a83af3ec6ac0dacbc99 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Sarah Ketchley Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2022 18:01:11 -0800 Subject: [PATCH 13/15] Update volume4.xml --- diary-volumes/volume4.xml | 12 +++++++----- 1 file changed, 7 insertions(+), 5 deletions(-) diff --git a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml index cbebda0e3..5b4b248ec 100644 --- a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml +++ b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml @@ -52,7 +52,7 @@ S.S. Freiderick der Grosser. near Port Said. Dec. 6 -

I am so thankful that this long voyage has almost come to an end - and that we will arrive at Port Said early tomorrow morning - we reached Genoa on the 27 Nov. just too late to catch the only train to Florence at noon - and after a slight delay at the Custom House, made a long journey through the streets of the town to the "Hotel du Pare" a rather attractive looking ancient Villa standing in large grounds with trees, which might be cheerful on a summers day, but on that chill afternoon, dripping with rain, was truly disconsolate. The palatial rooms and halls, with their tiny fires and enormous windows shaking and rattling in the gale, made us thankful we were only going to stop for the night. The next day we were off for Florence at 12 o'clock - which we reached at 7 P.M. - a weary ride - slow and rough, through never ending tunnels. The girls and Hassan were waiting for us, and went with us to the Grande Bretagne, where we were installed in our old appartment. Florence the next day was cold, but bright. I spent the Sunday morning with Mary shopping - I found her chattering Italian like a native. Theodore and Nettie went to the Uffizzi - Clarence and Jones to do as much of the town as they could. Lizzie and both girls came to breakfast, and the girls stopped to lunch - after which a drive to Fiesole, and the rest of the time with Lizzie in their pretty little appartment, 2 Via Venezia, and then all came home with us to dinner. Berenson also came to dinner, looking very well. The next day we were off to Genoa again, with Mary along and went for the night to the "Hotel Isotta", much more comfortable than the other. At 2 o'clock the next day we went out to the Frederick the Great - and after enormous trouble and anxiety, through the insufficiency and want of order of the North German Lloyd Co. we succeeded at last in getting all our 30 pieces of luggage out of the Custom House and aboard the steamer - and sailed about 5 o'clock the next morning for Naples. We found the steamer very pleasant, but rather durious in her arrangement. Large as she is she only carries 120 first class passengers - but she carries enormous freight to Australia - her decks are charming - the service and the food very poor. Reached Naples the next morning - rain pouring - everyone else went ashore - I stayed at home - Dr. Peabody and family, Mr. Pratt and Dr. Doty arrived in the afternoon. So did the Kaiser Wilhelm, just from New York, a week later than ourselves. We were at last off on the home stretch for Egypt at 6 P.M. Since then the weather has been bad, and heavy seas until today - which is lovely. In my room during most of the voyage from Genoa.

+

I am so thankful that this long voyage has almost come to an end - and that we will arrive at Port Said early tomorrow morning - we reached Genoa on the 27 Nov. just too late to catch the only train to Florence at noon - and after a slight delay at the Custom House, made a long journey through the streets of the town to the "Hotel du Pare" a rather attractive looking ancient Villa standing in large grounds with trees, which might be cheerful on a summers day, but on that chill afternoon, dripping with rain, was truly disconsolate. The palatial rooms and halls, with their tiny fires and enormous windows shaking and rattling in the gale, made us thankful we were only going to stop for the night. The next day we were off for Florence at 12 o'clock - which we reached at 7 P.M. - a weary ride - slow and rough, through never ending tunnels. The girls and Hassan were waiting for us, and went with us to the Grande Bretagne, where we were installed in our old appartment. Florence the next day was cold, but bright. I spent the Sunday morning with Mary shopping - I found her chattering Italian like a native. Theodore and Nettie went to the Uffizzi - Clarence and Jones to do as much of the town as they could. Lizzie and both girls came to breakfast, and the girls stopped to lunch - after which a drive to Fiesole, and the rest of the time with Lizzie in their pretty little appartment, 2 Via Venezia, and then all came home with us to dinner. Berenson also came to dinner, looking very well. The next day we were off to Genoa again, with Mary along and went for the night to the "Hotel Isotta", much more comfortable than the other. At 2 o'clock the next day we went out to the Frederick the Great - and after enormous trouble and anxiety, through the insufficiency and want of order of the North German Lloyd Co. we succeeded at last in getting all our 30 pieces of luggage out of the Custom House and aboard the steamer - and sailed about 5 o'clock the next morning for Naples. We found the steamer very pleasant, but rather durious in her arrangement. Large as she is she only carries 120 first class passengers - but she carries enormous freight to Australia - her decks are charming - the service and the food very poor. Reached Naples the next morning - rain pouring - everyone else went ashore - I stayed at home - Dr. Peabody and family, Mr. Pratt and Dr. Doty arrived in the afternoon. So did the Kaiser Wilhelm, just from New York, a week later than ourselves. We were at last off on the home stretch for Egypt at 6 P.M. Since then the weather has been bad, and heavy seas until today - which is lovely. In my room during most of the voyage from Genoa.

@@ -83,13 +83,13 @@ Dahabeah "Beduin". Monday, Jan. 11. 1897. -

We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to Bedrasheen, where we are now lying. Mary and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the Beduin, under convoy of the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o'clock. Just as we reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our "Beduin" stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her go by - and I heard her pronounced the "handsomest craft on the river". Immediately after lunch, when poor Theodore had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us, until we came down. In the midst of it, Mrs. and Miss Taylor arrived for a parting visit. Then there was the "debbil to pay" as dear old Salah would say, as Theodore discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as Assiut; they had no food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt blessing from us all to the impossible Thubron, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are happy, if not yet in order.

+

We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to Bedrasheen, where we are now lying. Mary and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the Beduin, under convoy of the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o'clock. Just as we reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our "Beduin" stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her go by - and I heard her pronounced the "handsomest craft on the river". Immediately after lunch, when poor Theodore had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us, until we came down. In the midst of it, Mrs. and Miss Taylor arrived for a parting visit. Then there was the "debbil to pay" as dear old Salah would say, as Theodore discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as Assiut; they had no food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt blessing from us all to the impossible Thubron, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are happy, if not yet in order.

Jan. 12. -

We have made about 18 miles - and are somewhere between Bedreschein and Wasta. The tug proves a worthless thing. She can make about 2 miles with us, an hour, without any assistance from us - but if we have a wind that at all fills our sails, we sail right on to her and she has to cast off. Various "désagrémens" have developed themselves, the most important of which is old Henna, our cook, who was with us for 2 winters on the Herodotus has taken fright at the range in his kitchen, and thinks he can do nothing with it, although he makes much better bread with it, than I have ever known him do before. And, we greatly need the forgotten sideboard - and many rather necessary things have been overlooked. However, we are so pretty and convenient, that we are quite ashamed of ourselves in complaining of anything. My room is entirely charming - and so are all the bedrooms in their pretty chintzs and simple fittings - and the saloon would be a charming interior anywhere - with its Morris green brocades and art fabrics. Then the big upper deck is entirely perfection, with its pretty rugs, its big brown wicker hooded chairs and easy chairs, with their bright yellow and black cushions and pillows in bandana stuffs. But best of all, the Beduin has proved a rattling good sailor, and there can be no happier man on earth than our Rais Fuli, who for the first time in his life is 1st Captain. He has been twice with us as 2d Captain and we have always said he should be captain of our dahabeah when it was built. He is such a fine specimen of a calm, serene Mohammedan, and has a gentle personal dignity I have never seen equalled. He is a Nubian, knows the river thoroughly, and we could trust him with everything we have. The boat will now be his house summer as well as winter - and he will get ￡3. a month and during the summer feed himself - I think I am as pleased as he is. He has chosen an admirable crew - I never saw so good a one on the Nile - and in their brown cardigans with "Beduin" in blue letters across the breast, they look very well.

+

We have made about 18 miles - and are somewhere between Bedreschein and Wasta. The tug proves a worthless thing. She can make about 2 miles with us, an hour, without any assistance from us - but if we have a wind that at all fills our sails, we sail right on to her and she has to cast off. Various "désagrémens" have developed themselves, the most important of which is old Henna, our cook, who was with us for 2 winters on the Herodotus has taken fright at the range in his kitchen, and thinks he can do nothing with it, although he makes much better bread with it, than I have ever known him do before. And, we greatly need the forgotten sideboard - and many rather necessary things have been overlooked. However, we are so pretty and convenient, that we are quite ashamed of ourselves in complaining of anything. My room is entirely charming - and so are all the bedrooms in their pretty chintzs and simple fittings - and the saloon would be a charming interior anywhere - with its Morris green brocades and art fabrics. Then the big upper deck is entirely perfection, with its pretty rugs, its big brown wicker hooded chairs and easy chairs, with their bright yellow and black cushions and pillows in bandana stuffs. But best of all, the Beduin has proved a rattling good sailor, and there can be no happier man on earth than our Rais Fuli, who for the first time in his life is 1st Captain. He has been twice with us as 2d Captain and we have always said he should be captain of our dahabeah when it was built. He is such a fine specimen of a calm, serene Mohammedan, and has a gentle personal dignity I have never seen equalled. He is a Nubian, knows the river thoroughly, and we could trust him with everything we have. The boat will now be his house summer as well as winter - and he will get ￡3. a month and during the summer feed himself - I think I am as pleased as he is. He has chosen an admirable crew - I never saw so good a one on the Nile - and in their brown cardigans with "Beduin" in blue letters across the breast, they look very well.

@@ -167,13 +167,15 @@ Jan. 25. -

Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o'clock the wind came up, and we got about an hour's sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking and poling, brought us within 10 miles of Tahtah - making 12 miles altogether. The Mena, flying the English flag - and the Elephantine flying the French flag, passed us today - and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°.

+

Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o'clock the wind came up, and we got about an hour's sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking and poling, brought us within 10 miles of Tahtah - making 12 miles altogether. The Mena, flying the English flag - and the Elephantine flying the French flag, passed us today - and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°. +

Jan. 26. -

A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are tonight 5 miles from Sohag - passed Tahtah at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and exhilerating, that seems to renew one's life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their animals before them, or dragging them after. It is no unusual thing to see donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing 3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a time.

+

A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are tonight 5 miles from Sohag - passed Tahtah at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and exhilerating, that seems to renew one's life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their animals before them, or dragging them after. It is no unusual thing to see donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing 3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a time. +

From 68e4e6beb4fa83d989a2c3e5fe63d877c49c6bdb Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Sarah Ketchley Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2022 18:39:25 -0800 Subject: [PATCH 14/15] Update volume4.xml --- diary-volumes/volume4.xml | 10 ++++------ 1 file changed, 4 insertions(+), 6 deletions(-) diff --git a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml index 5b4b248ec..4a82f206f 100644 --- a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml +++ b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml @@ -52,7 +52,7 @@ S.S. Freiderick der Grosser. near Port Said. Dec. 6 -

I am so thankful that this long voyage has almost come to an end - and that we will arrive at Port Said early tomorrow morning - we reached Genoa on the 27 Nov. just too late to catch the only train to Florence at noon - and after a slight delay at the Custom House, made a long journey through the streets of the town to the "Hotel du Pare" a rather attractive looking ancient Villa standing in large grounds with trees, which might be cheerful on a summers day, but on that chill afternoon, dripping with rain, was truly disconsolate. The palatial rooms and halls, with their tiny fires and enormous windows shaking and rattling in the gale, made us thankful we were only going to stop for the night. The next day we were off for Florence at 12 o'clock - which we reached at 7 P.M. - a weary ride - slow and rough, through never ending tunnels. The girls and Hassan were waiting for us, and went with us to the Grande Bretagne, where we were installed in our old appartment. Florence the next day was cold, but bright. I spent the Sunday morning with Mary shopping - I found her chattering Italian like a native. Theodore and Nettie went to the Uffizzi - Clarence and Jones to do as much of the town as they could. Lizzie and both girls came to breakfast, and the girls stopped to lunch - after which a drive to Fiesole, and the rest of the time with Lizzie in their pretty little appartment, 2 Via Venezia, and then all came home with us to dinner. Berenson also came to dinner, looking very well. The next day we were off to Genoa again, with Mary along and went for the night to the "Hotel Isotta", much more comfortable than the other. At 2 o'clock the next day we went out to the Frederick the Great - and after enormous trouble and anxiety, through the insufficiency and want of order of the North German Lloyd Co. we succeeded at last in getting all our 30 pieces of luggage out of the Custom House and aboard the steamer - and sailed about 5 o'clock the next morning for Naples. We found the steamer very pleasant, but rather durious in her arrangement. Large as she is she only carries 120 first class passengers - but she carries enormous freight to Australia - her decks are charming - the service and the food very poor. Reached Naples the next morning - rain pouring - everyone else went ashore - I stayed at home - Dr. Peabody and family, Mr. Pratt and Dr. Doty arrived in the afternoon. So did the Kaiser Wilhelm, just from New York, a week later than ourselves. We were at last off on the home stretch for Egypt at 6 P.M. Since then the weather has been bad, and heavy seas until today - which is lovely. In my room during most of the voyage from Genoa.

+

I am so thankful that this long voyage has almost come to an end - and that we will arrive at Port Said early tomorrow morning - we reached Genoa on the 27 Nov. just too late to catch the only train to Florence at noon - and after a slight delay at the Custom House, made a long journey through the streets of the town to the "Hotel du Pare" a rather attractive looking ancient Villa standing in large grounds with trees, which might be cheerful on a summers day, but on that chill afternoon, dripping with rain, was truly disconsolate. The palatial rooms and halls, with their tiny fires and enormous windows shaking and rattling in the gale, made us thankful we were only going to stop for the night. The next day we were off for Florence at 12 o'clock - which we reached at 7 P.M. - a weary ride - slow and rough, through never ending tunnels. The girls and Hassan were waiting for us, and went with us to the Grande Bretagne, where we were installed in our old appartment. Florence the next day was cold, but bright. I spent the Sunday morning with Mary shopping - I found her chattering Italian like a native. Theodore and Nettie went to the Uffizzi - Clarence and Jones to do as much of the town as they could. Lizzie and both girls came to breakfast, and the girls stopped to lunch - after which a drive to Fiesole, and the rest of the time with Lizzie in their pretty little appartment, 2 Via Venezia, and then all came home with us to dinner. Berenson also came to dinner, looking very well. The next day we were off to Genoa again, with Mary along and went for the night to the "Hotel Isotta", much more comfortable than the other. At 2 o'clock the next day we went out to the Frederick the Great - and after enormous trouble and anxiety, through the insufficiency and want of order of the North German Lloyd Co. we succeeded at last in getting all our 30 pieces of luggage out of the Custom House and aboard the steamer - and sailed about 5 o'clock the next morning for Naples. We found the steamer very pleasant, but rather durious in her arrangement. Large as she is she only carries 120 first class passengers - but she carries enormous freight to Australia - her decks are charming - the service and the food very poor. Reached Naples the next morning - rain pouring - everyone else went ashore - I stayed at home - Dr. Peabody and family, Mr. Pratt and Dr. Doty arrived in the afternoon. So did the Kaiser Wilhelm, just from New York, a week later than ourselves. We were at last off on the home stretch for Egypt at 6 P.M. Since then the weather has been bad, and heavy seas until today - which is lovely. In my room during most of the voyage from Genoa.

@@ -83,7 +83,7 @@ Dahabeah "Beduin". Monday, Jan. 11. 1897. -

We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to Bedrasheen, where we are now lying. Mary and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the Beduin, under convoy of the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o'clock. Just as we reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our "Beduin" stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her go by - and I heard her pronounced the "handsomest craft on the river". Immediately after lunch, when poor Theodore had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us, until we came down. In the midst of it, Mrs. and Miss Taylor arrived for a parting visit. Then there was the "debbil to pay" as dear old Salah would say, as Theodore discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as Assiut; they had no food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt blessing from us all to the impossible Thubron, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are happy, if not yet in order.

+

We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to Bedrasheen, where we are now lying. Mary and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the Beduin, under convoy of the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o'clock. Just as we reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our "Beduin" stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her go by - and I heard her pronounced the "handsomest craft on the river". Immediately after lunch, when poor Theodore had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us, until we came down. In the midst of it, Mrs. and Miss Taylor arrived for a parting visit. Then there was the "debbil to pay" as dear old Salah would say, as Theodore discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as Assiut; they had no food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt blessing from us all to the impossible Thubron, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are happy, if not yet in order.

@@ -167,15 +167,13 @@ Jan. 25. -

Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o'clock the wind came up, and we got about an hour's sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking and poling, brought us within 10 miles of Tahtah - making 12 miles altogether. The Mena, flying the English flag - and the Elephantine flying the French flag, passed us today - and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°. -

+

Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o'clock the wind came up, and we got about an hour's sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking and poling, brought us within 10 miles of Tahtah - making 12 miles altogether. The Mena, flying the English flag - and the Elephantine flying the French flag, passed us today - and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°.

Jan. 26. -

A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are tonight 5 miles from Sohag - passed Tahtah at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and exhilerating, that seems to renew one's life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their animals before them, or dragging them after. It is no unusual thing to see donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing 3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a time. -

+

A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are tonight 5 miles from Sohag - passed Tahtah at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and exhilerating, that seems to renew one's life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their animals before them, or dragging them after. It is no unusual thing to see donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing 3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a time.

From 023c4cc4bddb796430958994046ea50f6637ebd8 Mon Sep 17 00:00:00 2001 From: Thurst2165 <59519420+Thurst2165@users.noreply.github.com> Date: Sun, 30 Jan 2022 17:30:53 -0800 Subject: [PATCH 15/15] Update volume4.xml --- diary-volumes/volume4.xml | 70 +++++++++++++++++++-------------------- 1 file changed, 35 insertions(+), 35 deletions(-) diff --git a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml index cbebda0e3..d4cffb591 100644 --- a/diary-volumes/volume4.xml +++ b/diary-volumes/volume4.xml @@ -71,7 +71,7 @@ Ghesireh Palace Hotel. Dec. 27. -

We left Shepheards this morning and came over here, to escape the smells and noise of Cairo and are so enchanted with the delicious air and space - our rooms are really palatial - and look out on the beautiful garden - and the sitting room opens on a balcony, which the present hot weather makes quite delightful. The sun was so hot this afternoon that the awning was necessary. The house is practically empty - and it is so enormous, that only in the evening after dinner, when everyone congregated in the big hall, that there seems to be anyone here. We are so busy, trying to help along the boat - and there are so many vexatious delays, that our patience is fairly exhausted. I am amazed at Theodore's apparent patience with Thubron and his unprincipled inefficiency. I have never been so long in Cairo before - and I think I am tired of it - if not of Cairo, certainly of the life of hotels - and the dreary people. It is nice to see the interest and enjoyment of Clarence and Mary in everything. I am well - and quite free from cold for the first time in Cairo.

+

We left Shepheards this morning and came over here, to escape the smells and noise of Cairo and are so enchanted with the delicious air and space - our rooms are really palatial - and look out on the beautiful garden - and the sitting room opens on a balcony, which the present hot weather makes quite delightful. The sun was so hot this afternoon that the awning was necessary. The house is practically empty - and it is so enormous, that only in the evening after dinner, when everyone congregated in the big hall, that there seems to be anyone here. We are so busy, trying to help along the boat - and there are so many vexatious delays, that our patience is fairly exhausted. I am amazed at Theodore's apparent patience with Thubron and his unprincipled inefficiency. I have never been so long in Cairo before - and I think I am tired of it - if not of Cairo, certainly of the life of hotels - and the dreary people. It is nice to see the interest and enjoyment of Clarence and Mary in everything. I am well - and quite free from cold for the first time in Cairo.

@@ -83,55 +83,55 @@ Dahabeah "Beduin". Monday, Jan. 11. 1897. -

We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to Bedrasheen, where we are now lying. Mary and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the Beduin, under convoy of the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o'clock. Just as we reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our "Beduin" stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her go by - and I heard her pronounced the "handsomest craft on the river". Immediately after lunch, when poor Theodore had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us, until we came down. In the midst of it, Mrs. and Miss Taylor arrived for a parting visit. Then there was the "debbil to pay" as dear old Salah would say, as Theodore discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as Assiut; they had no food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt blessing from us all to the impossible Thubron, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are happy, if not yet in order.

+

We are actually in possession - have started - and made 15 miles to Bedrasheen, where we are now lying. Mary and I flew about this morning doing last things - we lunched at the Gesireh, but went down before lunch on the terrace, to see the Beduin, under convoy of the tug, go by, on her way to above the bridge, which opens at one o'clock. Just as we reached the terrace, I saw away down the river, the tug pulling out, and our "Beduin" stately, tall, and shapely in her tow. Several people gathered on the terrace to see her go by - and I heard her pronounced the "handsomest craft on the river". Immediately after lunch, when poor Theodore had finished all his backsheeshs, we drove above the bridge, and went aboard. There was hurry and scrambling for 15 minutes, as our trunks were literally turned upside down, and sent back empty to the hotel to be kept for us, until we came down. In the midst of it, Mrs. and Miss Taylor arrived for a parting visit. Then there was the "debbil to pay" as dear old Salah would say, as Theodore discovered that the men on the tug did not know that they were to go further than above the bridge, and were aghast at the idea of taking us as far as Assiut; they had no food - no blankets - no preparations, but go they had to, and with many a heartfelt blessing from us all to the impossible Thubron, we started at 3:40 this P.M. I have been working like a slave all the afternoon, and am too tired to see or think, but we are happy, if not yet in order.

Jan. 12. -

We have made about 18 miles - and are somewhere between Bedreschein and Wasta. The tug proves a worthless thing. She can make about 2 miles with us, an hour, without any assistance from us - but if we have a wind that at all fills our sails, we sail right on to her and she has to cast off. Various "désagrémens" have developed themselves, the most important of which is old Henna, our cook, who was with us for 2 winters on the Herodotus has taken fright at the range in his kitchen, and thinks he can do nothing with it, although he makes much better bread with it, than I have ever known him do before. And, we greatly need the forgotten sideboard - and many rather necessary things have been overlooked. However, we are so pretty and convenient, that we are quite ashamed of ourselves in complaining of anything. My room is entirely charming - and so are all the bedrooms in their pretty chintzs and simple fittings - and the saloon would be a charming interior anywhere - with its Morris green brocades and art fabrics. Then the big upper deck is entirely perfection, with its pretty rugs, its big brown wicker hooded chairs and easy chairs, with their bright yellow and black cushions and pillows in bandana stuffs. But best of all, the Beduin has proved a rattling good sailor, and there can be no happier man on earth than our Rais Fuli, who for the first time in his life is 1st Captain. He has been twice with us as 2d Captain and we have always said he should be captain of our dahabeah when it was built. He is such a fine specimen of a calm, serene Mohammedan, and has a gentle personal dignity I have never seen equalled. He is a Nubian, knows the river thoroughly, and we could trust him with everything we have. The boat will now be his house summer as well as winter - and he will get ￡3. a month and during the summer feed himself - I think I am as pleased as he is. He has chosen an admirable crew - I never saw so good a one on the Nile - and in their brown cardigans with "Beduin" in blue letters across the breast, they look very well.

+

We have made about 18 miles - and are somewhere between Bedreschein and Wasta. The tug proves a worthless thing. She can make about 2 miles with us, an hour, without any assistance from us - but if we have a wind that at all fills our sails, we sail right on to her and she has to cast off. Various "désagrémens" have developed themselves, the most important of which is old Henna, our cook, who was with us for 2 winters on the Herodotus has taken fright at the range in his kitchen, and thinks he can do nothing with it, although he makes much better bread with it, than I have ever known him do before. And, we greatly need the forgotten sideboard - and many rather necessary things have been overlooked. However, we are so pretty and convenient, that we are quite ashamed of ourselves in complaining of anything. My room is entirely charming - and so are all the bedrooms in their pretty chintzs and simple fittings - and the saloon would be a charming interior anywhere - with its Morris green brocades and art fabrics. Then the big upper deck is entirely perfection, with its pretty rugs, its big brown wicker hooded chairs and easy chairs, with their bright yellow and black cushions and pillows in bandana stuffs. But best of all, the Beduin has proved a rattling good sailor, and there can be no happier man on earth than our Rais Fuli, who for the first time in his life is 1st Captain. He has been twice with us as 2d Captain and we have always said he should be captain of our dahabeah when it was built. He is such a fine specimen of a calm, serene Mohammedan, and has a gentle personal dignity I have never seen equalled. He is a Nubian, knows the river thoroughly, and we could trust him with everything we have. The boat will now be his house summer as well as winter - and he will get ￡3. a month and during the summer feed himself - I think I am as pleased as he is. He has chosen an admirable crew - I never saw so good a one on the Nile - and in their brown cardigans with "Beduin" in blue letters across the breast, they look very well.

Jan. 13. -

Made 23 miles - are now lying near Wasta - day calm, with some head wind - heavy storm of wind during the night - very busy settling.

+

Made 23 miles - are now lying near Wasta - day calm, with some head wind - heavy storm of wind during the night - very busy settling.

Jan. 14. -

Beautiful warm weather - though my self-registering barometer on my little verandah went down to 40° during the night. Passed Benisoef about noon - ran until 8 o'clock this evening, - made 23 miles today.

+

Beautiful warm weather - though my self-registering barometer on my little verandah went down to 40° during the night. Passed Benisoef about noon - ran until 8 o'clock this evening, - made 23 miles today.

Jan. 15. -

A long run today - starting at 6 A.M. and bringing up at 7 o'clock P.M. within 3 miles of Golasseheh - busy all day - made 57 miles.

+

A long run today - starting at 6 A.M. and bringing up at 7 o'clock P.M. within 3 miles of Golasseheh - busy all day - made 57 miles.

Jan. 16. -

I wakened before it was light this morning and heard the rippling of the water that showed how fast we were slipping along - but, a little after 7 o'clock we ran into a dense fog - I never saw such a sight before on the Nile - and we pulled up awhile until the hot sun had dissipated it. We passed Minieh at 11 o'clock - and Beni Hassan this afternoon and are now lying at Rhodah having made 51 miles. Some high wind today from the right quarter - and we have had to cast the tug off, but the wind has been fitful. Have passed such lovely palm fringed shores. This morning the usual begging saint from Der el-Tayr, or Mountain of the Bird, swam out to us - and demanded the usual toll. The boat is now in perfect order - and I am now resting from my labors. Thermometer registered last night 45° and today at 2 o'clock 72°. I had my little stove lighted and brought into my room for the first time this morning.

+

I wakened before it was light this morning and heard the rippling of the water that showed how fast we were slipping along - but, a little after 7 o'clock we ran into a dense fog - I never saw such a sight before on the Nile - and we pulled up awhile until the hot sun had dissipated it. We passed Minieh at 11 o'clock - and Beni Hassan this afternoon and are now lying at Rhodah having made 51 miles. Some high wind today from the right quarter - and we have had to cast the tug off, but the wind has been fitful. Have passed such lovely palm fringed shores. This morning the usual begging saint from Der el-Tayr, or Mountain of the Bird, swam out to us - and demanded the usual toll. The boat is now in perfect order - and I am now resting from my labors. Thermometer registered last night 45° and today at 2 o'clock 72°. I had my little stove lighted and brought into my room for the first time this morning.

Jan. 17 Second Sunday after Epiphany. -

We have only made 20 miles today. There has been but little wind, and what there was, from the wrong quarter. Something was the matter with the tug, and we had to stop for 3 hours to have her tickered. We are now within 4 miles of Gebel Abou Fedah - day has been overcast, and a little cool. Thermometer last night 42° - today 72°. A remarkable sunset - really the most wonderful and gorgeous in its beauty I ever saw.

+

We have only made 20 miles today. There has been but little wind, and what there was, from the wrong quarter. Something was the matter with the tug, and we had to stop for 3 hours to have her tickered. We are now within 4 miles of Gebel Abou Fedah - day has been overcast, and a little cool. Thermometer last night 42° - today 72°. A remarkable sunset - really the most wonderful and gorgeous in its beauty I ever saw.

Jan. 18. -

A very disappointing day. Thubrons wretched little tug has given out entirely, and been abandoned by us. The Engineer reported early this morning a leak in the boiler - but as that has been the case for several days, it seemed to be no reason that we should not go on in the same slow way. So Theodore went aboard the tug - found that the engineer in order to "see in the boiler" as he said, had taken off the cylinder head, and then found a loose nut kicking about somewhere, and said if he moved their lives would be in danger. There was nothing to do but to leave her, which we did, declining to give the man 2 oars as he wished us to do, to paddle back to Cairo. Day warm and beautiful - sailed for nearly 2 hours in a very light wind and think we have made about 10 miles. On deck until nearly 7 o'clock, watching the radiant moon-rise and the colors on the Gebel Abu-Fedah chain.

+

A very disappointing day. Thubrons wretched little tug has given out entirely, and been abandoned by us. The Engineer reported early this morning a leak in the boiler - but as that has been the case for several days, it seemed to be no reason that we should not go on in the same slow way. So Theodore went aboard the tug - found that the engineer in order to "see in the boiler" as he said, had taken off the cylinder head, and then found a loose nut kicking about somewhere, and said if he moved their lives would be in danger. There was nothing to do but to leave her, which we did, declining to give the man 2 oars as he wished us to do, to paddle back to Cairo. Day warm and beautiful - sailed for nearly 2 hours in a very light wind and think we have made about 10 miles. On deck until nearly 7 o'clock, watching the radiant moon-rise and the colors on the Gebel Abu-Fedah chain.

Jan. 19. -

We began tracking a little after seven o'clock this morning - a very little south wind made it hard work for our poor fellows - but in spite of it, we have made 9 or 10 miles. The English dahabeah Thames passed us in tow about dark. Our people inquired about our tug, and they answered they had passed her near Hager Kandil, floating down to Cairo. A pleasant little walk this A.M. along the banks of the Bar Jusef canal - larks singing - wheat to my knees.

+

We began tracking a little after seven o'clock this morning - a very little south wind made it hard work for our poor fellows - but in spite of it, we have made 9 or 10 miles. The English dahabeah Thames passed us in tow about dark. Our people inquired about our tug, and they answered they had passed her near Hager Kandil, floating down to Cairo. A pleasant little walk this A.M. along the banks of the Bar Jusef canal - larks singing - wheat to my knees.

@@ -143,7 +143,7 @@ Jan. 21. -

We began sailing at 8 o'clock this morning with a strong north wind - and the Beduin had her first good opportunity to test her true sailing qualities. She behaved splendidly to the great delight of her Captain and her crew, to say nothing of her owner. She sailed on the wind in so fine a fashion, that the crew were enthusiastic. I found the wind too strong on deck, and went below to the entrance deck, where I stood sometime watching the sailors, who were laughing and cheering apostrophising the wind - then the boat - then shaking hands in congratulation. We careered and made more motion than I have ever felt on the Nile.- but then we had never sailed like that in such a wind before. In the midst of our triumphal progress in making a difficult bend of the river we came in collision with a working or ferry boat, anchored just at the point. Her boom scraped our sides a little to the great distress of Rais Fuli - but no real harm done. In swinging round to avoid as much as possible the shock of the contact, we went aground on the sand - and it was 3 hours before we got off, so that we did not reach Assiut until after 5 P.M. - too late to go into the town - Theodore, Clarence and Jones set off for the P.O. We found waiting for us, the 2 tables from Hatoun's for which we had written - and the box of table linen from Paris. The "Thames" lying opposite Assiut. We made about 30 miles today.

+

We began sailing at 8 o'clock this morning with a strong north wind - and the Beduin had her first good opportunity to test her true sailing qualities. She behaved splendidly to the great delight of her Captain and her crew, to say nothing of her owner. She sailed on the wind in so fine a fashion, that the crew were enthusiastic. I found the wind too strong on deck, and went below to the entrance deck, where I stood sometime watching the sailors, who were laughing and cheering apostrophising the wind - then the boat - then shaking hands in congratulation. We careered and made more motion than I have ever felt on the Nile.- but then we had never sailed like that in such a wind before. In the midst of our triumphal progress in making a difficult bend of the river we came in collision with a working or ferry boat, anchored just at the point. Her boom scraped our sides a little to the great distress of Rais Fuli - but no real harm done. In swinging round to avoid as much as possible the shock of the contact, we went aground on the sand - and it was 3 hours before we got off, so that we did not reach Assiut until after 5 P.M. - too late to go into the town - Theodore, Clarence and Jones set off for the P.O. We found waiting for us, the 2 tables from Hatoun's for which we had written - and the box of table linen from Paris. The "Thames" lying opposite Assiut. We made about 30 miles today.

@@ -155,61 +155,61 @@ Jan. 23d. -

We are still in sight of Assiut - though we have made 5 miles by tracking and pulling to the anchor - the wind when there was any, being dead ahead. Mary and I have been spending the afternoon on my pleasant little verandah - reading and working.

+

We are still in sight of Assiut - though we have made 5 miles by tracking and pulling to the anchor - the wind when there was any, being dead ahead. Mary and I have been spending the afternoon on my pleasant little verandah - reading and working.

Jan. 24. Third Sunday after Epiphany. -

A day of almost perfect calm - by tracking and polling and using the occasional little puffs of wind, we have made 15 miles. Such beautiful opalescent effects all day - the whole world done in pearly, pink, gray heat.

+

A day of almost perfect calm - by tracking and polling and using the occasional little puffs of wind, we have made 15 miles. Such beautiful opalescent effects all day - the whole world done in pearly, pink, gray heat.

Jan. 25. -

Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o'clock the wind came up, and we got about an hour's sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking and poling, brought us within 10 miles of Tahtah - making 12 miles altogether. The Mena, flying the English flag - and the Elephantine flying the French flag, passed us today - and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°.

+

Another day like yesterday - until about 6 o'clock the wind came up, and we got about an hour's sailing - which with the pulling to anchor, tracking and poling, brought us within 10 miles of Tahtah - making 12 miles altogether. The Mena, flying the English flag - and the Elephantine flying the French flag, passed us today - and tonight we are tied up just above the latter. Mercury today - 80°.

Jan. 26. -

A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are tonight 5 miles from Sohag - passed Tahtah at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and exhilerating, that seems to renew one's life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their animals before them, or dragging them after. It is no unusual thing to see donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing 3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a time.

+

A more successful day - a good wind this afternoon having brought us 30 miles and we are tonight 5 miles from Sohag - passed Tahtah at 3 this afternoon - I have been the whole day on deck - very hot, very bright - flies tormenting - but an air, pure, warm and exhilerating, that seems to renew one's life - and such colouring! The great cliffs of El Haradeh have been near us all day - their soft yellow, with heliotrope, and ashes of roses shadows. It seems a bad employment of time to read, or work, or look at anything but this strange country - with its simplicity of feature, the changing life of the banks of the river, - one of the most interesting things is the ferry boats - with their loads of men, women, children, and every description of animal. They are common working sail boats - their sails sometimes so tattered and chiffonnée that one wonders there can be any propelling power about them. Then they cannot often approach the low shores, and men and women unceremoniously kilt up their clothes and wade to shore, driving their animals before them, or dragging them after. It is no unusual thing to see donkeys lifted bodily into these boats and the other day we were much diverted by seeing 3 camels, scolding their protests, lifted in as it were in sections, - one leg at a time.

Jan. 27. -

Started this morning in a strong wind and came to Sohag just as breakfast was ready. Most of the male population of this good looking thriving town were ranged along the bank above us - we had to stop for mail and butter, which took about an hour - and in the mean time we bought some of the bright Akmim cloths which a merchant was displaying on the bank. They used to be made in Akmim, but I suspect they more often now, come from Birmingham, England. The river here makes a very bad turn, and north and south seem to change places. We came to grief here once before in the Herodotus - and again this morning, our delay of an hour resulted in staying all day near Sohag - for the strong wind at last found us on shore about 2 miles above the town - and opposite Akmim. The wind blew a hurricane all day - and all windows and doors had to be closed to keep out the driving fine sand. Towards evening we pulled to the anchor across the river near Akmim - and would rather have been above than below the town - as the cholera raged at this place during the summer. Made 9 miles.

+

Started this morning in a strong wind and came to Sohag just as breakfast was ready. Most of the male population of this good looking thriving town were ranged along the bank above us - we had to stop for mail and butter, which took about an hour - and in the mean time we bought some of the bright Akmim cloths which a merchant was displaying on the bank. They used to be made in Akmim, but I suspect they more often now, come from Birmingham, England. The river here makes a very bad turn, and north and south seem to change places. We came to grief here once before in the Herodotus - and again this morning, our delay of an hour resulted in staying all day near Sohag - for the strong wind at last found us on shore about 2 miles above the town - and opposite Akmim. The wind blew a hurricane all day - and all windows and doors had to be closed to keep out the driving fine sand. Towards evening we pulled to the anchor across the river near Akmim - and would rather have been above than below the town - as the cholera raged at this place during the summer. Made 9 miles.

Jan. 28. -

We have made 35 miles today - beginning at 6:30 o'clock with a fair wind that grew so strong we had to lie by at Balliana for more than 2 hours.

+

We have made 35 miles today - beginning at 6:30 o'clock with a fair wind that grew so strong we had to lie by at Balliana for more than 2 hours.

Jan. 29. -

With the exception of Jan. 15, we have made today our best record - 49 miles - and are lying tonight near Keneh. Passed the Philetus - like a dream.

+

With the exception of Jan. 15, we have made today our best record - 49 miles - and are lying tonight near Keneh. Passed the Philetus - like a dream.

Jan. 30. -

A good wind this morning then sailed and tracked until we tied up for the night, having made 32 miles.

+

A good wind this morning then sailed and tracked until we tied up for the night, having made 32 miles.

Jan. 31. Luxor. Fourth Sunday after Epiphany. -

We made the intervening 12 miles between our landing place of last night and Luxor at 4:30 - having had a variable light wind all day - sometimes no wind, when we tracked and poled. About 11 o'clock, we descried the streamer of a dahabieh in the distance - then her sails, and the sails of 3 more - to our great delight as we have been thirsting for a foe worthy of our steel. We crept slowly along towards them, making Luxor the same time as the Manhattan, and just behind the Zenet-el Nil, the Sesostris and the Ammon Ra - in front of which last we tied up, just below the Castle. The rest went into the town, and I stayed to enjoy the quiet of our dahabeah and our beautiful deck - and the wonders of the setting sun - and the shadows creeping over the mountains. Heaps of letters and newspapers.

+

We made the intervening 12 miles between our landing place of last night and Luxor at 4:30 - having had a variable light wind all day - sometimes no wind, when we tracked and poled. About 11 o'clock, we descried the streamer of a dahabieh in the distance - then her sails, and the sails of 3 more - to our great delight as we have been thirsting for a foe worthy of our steel. We crept slowly along towards them, making Luxor the same time as the Manhattan, and just behind the Zenet-el Nil, the Sesostris and the Ammon Ra - in front of which last we tied up, just below the Castle. The rest went into the town, and I stayed to enjoy the quiet of our dahabeah and our beautiful deck - and the wonders of the setting sun - and the shadows creeping over the mountains. Heaps of letters and newspapers.

Feb. 3. Luxor. -

We have had a tremendously high wind for 2 days - yesterday neither Mary nor I stirred from the boat. Although protected by the high bank, we were really buffetted about and the waves race high - everything was kept closed - doors, windows, screens and tambooshes - but in spite of all the dust penetrated everywhere - though to a much less degree than in any other boat I have been on. Across the river, the sand obscured the sight of the mountains at times - and I was sorry for the Cookites, who were swarming on the sands, starting for their various excursions - for 2 or 3 steamers are in - and of course their passengers cannot wait for more favorable weather. Mary and I this morning climbed up the high bank, with the intention of walking back into the country - but our skirts blew over our heads, our hats off our heads - and our eyes were blinded with sand - so that we soon gave up the contest and came home, glad to finish our walk on the sheltered deck. Salah came to see us soon after our arrival, very proud of us, and of our sailing record. He is almost willing to let us beat his Zenet-el Nil - M. Goleinschief's boat, of which he has charge. Old Mohammed Mohassib also came one evening - excessively pleased - and we presented our little gifts to him. Theodore reports Karnak in the hands of the Excavation Society - I have not yet seen it. Mr. Baldwin who is on the Ammon-Ra, with his wife, and son-in-law, Dr. Grinell - was here today. Mrs. Baldwin is very wretched since she came on the river. They want us to start for Assouan when they do. The Fell party on the Zenet-el-Fil go back to Cairo from here - much to Salah's disgust. This morning we had a visit from Rev. Mr. Huhatt - the English clergyman at Luxor, and Mr. Coulson - they begged us to go to the Luxor Hotel to a "Cinderella Fancy Dress" Ball for the benefit of the little Hospital here. Theodore made no promises, but took several tickets. Ramadan begins today - very early this year.

+

We have had a tremendously high wind for 2 days - yesterday neither Mary nor I stirred from the boat. Although protected by the high bank, we were really buffetted about and the waves race high - everything was kept closed - doors, windows, screens and tambooshes - but in spite of all the dust penetrated everywhere - though to a much less degree than in any other boat I have been on. Across the river, the sand obscured the sight of the mountains at times - and I was sorry for the Cookites, who were swarming on the sands, starting for their various excursions - for 2 or 3 steamers are in - and of course their passengers cannot wait for more favorable weather. Mary and I this morning climbed up the high bank, with the intention of walking back into the country - but our skirts blew over our heads, our hats off our heads - and our eyes were blinded with sand - so that we soon gave up the contest and came home, glad to finish our walk on the sheltered deck. Salah came to see us soon after our arrival, very proud of us, and of our sailing record. He is almost willing to let us beat his Zenet-el Nil - M. Goleinschief's boat, of which he has charge. Old Mohammed Mohassib also came one evening - excessively pleased - and we presented our little gifts to him. Theodore reports Karnak in the hands of the Excavation Society - I have not yet seen it. Mr. Baldwin who is on the Ammon-Ra, with his wife, and son-in-law, Dr. Grinell - was here today. Mrs. Baldwin is very wretched since she came on the river. They want us to start for Assouan when they do. The Fell party on the Zenet-el-Fil go back to Cairo from here - much to Salah's disgust. This morning we had a visit from Rev. Mr. Huhatt - the English clergyman at Luxor, and Mr. Coulson - they begged us to go to the Luxor Hotel to a "Cinderella Fancy Dress" Ball for the benefit of the little Hospital here. Theodore made no promises, but took several tickets. Ramadan begins today - very early this year.

@@ -221,84 +221,84 @@ Feb. 6. -

We did not much want to leave Luxor this morning - but as Mrs. Baldwin has religious scruples about starting on Sunday - it was today or next week - and as Theodore is anxious to test the sailing qualities of the Beduin with the Ammon-Re, Cooks best and largest boat, we left about noon, twenty minutes or more after they were under way - the wind was very light, but in an hour we had easily overtaken and passed her, to the intense disgust of her men, and the delight of our own. Indeed Rais Fuli, with his calm, serene manner repressed the too exultant manner of our men - though it must have been the triumph of his own life. About 6 o'clock after much tracking we pulled up near Erment where we now are. I was rather sorry to leave Luxor so soon. We had one very busy day while there - to Karnak in the morning - the races in the afternoon - Mr. and Mrs. Huhatt, Mr. and Mrs. Brown - Miss Scott - and Miss Norton, to tea at 5 o'clock, and Laura Billings and her sister and Mr. Fahenstock of New York to dine in the evening. We had a lovely dinner - and I had some splendid red roses from the Luxor Hotel. This morning before leaving, I went to the Roman Catholic Italian Convent, to see if it were possible to arrange for Zenobia, my little arab child here in whom we have been much interested, to enter the school. I had an interview with the Mother Superior, or rather Mary had, for she could speak only Italian. We found the cleanest, quietest place I have ever seen in Luxor - pleasant airy courts, good gardens - and everything so spotlessly clean - the the Superior herself, clean, fat and sweet as she could be - and strongly reminding us of "The Abbess" of Moroni - a photograph of which I brought with me from home. Zenobia, her father, and her sister, now married - the sweet child of 2 years ago, were at the boat this morning. The sister well clothed, in the usual Arab fashion - veiled as becomes a married woman - and Zenobia as pretty and taking, and round and brown, as she used to be. I fear it will be impossible to get her into the Italian school - but I may succeed with the American Mission school when I go down. I would like to lift the child somewhat out of her dirt and poverty. For the first time at Luxor, I rode in one of the carriages, 2 or 3 of which are supplied by the Hotel - and I felt almost ashamed of myself - one doesn't like to see such unnecessary innovations.

+

We did not much want to leave Luxor this morning - but as Mrs. Baldwin has religious scruples about starting on Sunday - it was today or next week - and as Theodore is anxious to test the sailing qualities of the Beduin with the Ammon-Re, Cooks best and largest boat, we left about noon, twenty minutes or more after they were under way - the wind was very light, but in an hour we had easily overtaken and passed her, to the intense disgust of her men, and the delight of our own. Indeed Rais Fuli, with his calm, serene manner repressed the too exultant manner of our men - though it must have been the triumph of his own life. About 6 o'clock after much tracking we pulled up near Erment where we now are. I was rather sorry to leave Luxor so soon. We had one very busy day while there - to Karnak in the morning - the races in the afternoon - Mr. and Mrs. Huhatt, Mr. and Mrs. Brown - Miss Scott - and Miss Norton, to tea at 5 o'clock, and Laura Billings and her sister and Mr. Fahenstock of New York to dine in the evening. We had a lovely dinner - and I had some splendid red roses from the Luxor Hotel. This morning before leaving, I went to the Roman Catholic Italian Convent, to see if it were possible to arrange for Zenobia, my little arab child here in whom we have been much interested, to enter the school. I had an interview with the Mother Superior, or rather Mary had, for she could speak only Italian. We found the cleanest, quietest place I have ever seen in Luxor - pleasant airy courts, good gardens - and everything so spotlessly clean - the thethe Superior herself, clean, fat and sweet as she could be - and strongly reminding us of "The Abbess" of Moroni - a photograph of which I brought with me from home. Zenobia, her father, and her sister, now married - the sweet child of 2 years ago, were at the boat this morning. The sister well clothed, in the usual Arab fashion - veiled as becomes a married woman - and Zenobia as pretty and taking, and round and brown, as she used to be. I fear it will be impossible to get her into the Italian school - but I may succeed with the American Mission school when I go down. I would like to lift the child somewhat out of her dirt and poverty. For the first time at Luxor, I rode in one of the carriages, 2 or 3 of which are supplied by the Hotel - and I felt almost ashamed of myself - one doesn't like to see such unnecessary innovations.

Feb. 7. Fifth Sunday after Epiphany. -

We stopped a short time at the Erment garden to get oranges and lemons this morning, and the Ammon-Ra passed ahead - light wind and calms most of the day. We overtook the Ammon-Ra and sailed her out of sight. Tied up at Esneh at 7:30 - but the wind coming out strong at 9 o'clock, we pulled up our stakes, and were off and did not stop until one o'clock, when we pulled up at Al-Kab having made in all 41 miles. The nights have now a wonderful beauty. A little new moon appeared 3 nights ago - and Venus is resplendent - and so is Sirius. Yesterday and today warm.

+

We stopped a short time at the Erment garden to get oranges and lemons this morning, and the Ammon-Ra passed ahead - light wind and calms most of the day. We overtook the Ammon-Ra and sailed her out of sight. Tied up at Esneh at 7:30 - but the wind coming out strong at 9 o'clock, we pulled up our stakes, and were off and did not stop until one o'clock, when we pulled up at Al-Kab having made in all 41 miles. The nights have now a wonderful beauty. A little new moon appeared 3 nights ago - and Venus is resplendent - and so is Sirius. Yesterday and today warm.

Feb. 8th. -

Did not sail early this morning - and as we began tracking about 11, the Ammon-Ra appeared in sight. At 2 o'clock we pulled up at Al-Kab, to see Mr. Somers-Clarke - who is living there on his dahabeah at work at excavations. He came on the Beduin for a short visit, and it was quite an hour before we got away, the A.R. being by that time more than a mile in advance - before an hour had gone by, we had caught and passed her. Passed Edfou about 5 o'clock - what beautiful wide country - what splendid great domes of sycamore trees! We have come about 5 miles above Edfou - and have made 24 miles today. The Beduin seems to sail almost without wind - so smoothly she glided along mile after mile this evening, through the glittering moon lit water, without a ripple, other than she made.

+

Did not sail early this morning - and as we began tracking about 11, the Ammon-Ra appeared in sight. At 2 o'clock we pulled up at Al-Kab, to see Mr. Somers-Clarke - who is living there on his dahabeah at work at excavations. He came on the Beduin for a short visit, and it was quite an hour before we got away, the A.R. being by that time more than a mile in advance - before an hour had gone by, we had caught and passed her. Passed Edfou about 5 o'clock - what beautiful wide country - what splendid great domes of sycamore trees! We have come about 5 miles above Edfou - and have made 24 miles today. The Beduin seems to sail almost without wind - so smoothly she glided along mile after mile this evening, through the glittering moon lit water, without a ripple, other than she made.

Feb. 9. -

I do not know how we have made 23 miles today - it has been so calm with so little wind - but at 7 o'clock we passed Silsilis, and are now lying 2 miles above - such a perfect night and so warm. We crept silently along by the dangerous Silsileh rocks, as it was growing dark, and I never saw a more beautiful scene - the water without a ripple - everything bathed in moonlight - and Venus almost as bright as the moon. Ammon-Ra came up later and tied up behind us - and before we had finished dinner Dr. and Mrs. Grinell came over. Busy all day, writing and working, having succeeded in rousing myself out of my long indolence.

+

I do not know how we have made 23 miles today - it has been so calm with so little wind - but at 7 o'clock we passed Silsilis, and are now lying 2 miles above - such a perfect night and so warm. We crept silently along by the dangerous Silsileh rocks, as it was growing dark, and I never saw a more beautiful scene - the water without a ripple - everything bathed in moonlight - and Venus almost as bright as the moon. Ammon-Ra came up later and tied up behind us - and before we had finished dinner Dr. and Mrs. Grinell came over. Busy all day, writing and working, having succeeded in rousing myself out of my long indolence.

Feb. 10. -

A hot calm day - a little tracking this A.M. then laid up, with the Ammon-Ra just behind us. Thermometer at 86° in the afternoon. At 7 came a good wind and we were off, and sailed until 9 o'clock - 2 miles above Kom Ombo which was beautiful as we passed it in the moonlight - made 15 miles.

+

A hot calm day - a little tracking this A.M. then laid up, with the Ammon-Ra just behind us. Thermometer at 86° in the afternoon. At 7 came a good wind and we were off, and sailed until 9 o'clock - 2 miles above Kom Ombo which was beautiful as we passed it in the moonlight - made 15 miles.

Feb. 11. Thuesday. Assouan. -

Arrived at 10:30 this morning - having started at 6 o'clock, with the Ammon-Ra and Manhattan within sight behind us - and made 23 miles in 4 hours - having lost sight of both boats. Passed the Gazelle just below Assouan on her way down. Found the "Sesestris", "Istan", "Philetus" and "Thames" here at Elephantine - and now that the "Ammon-Ra" and "Manhattan" have arrived, we make 7 dahabeahs here. The Philetus started this afternoon for the ascent of the Cataract. Sailed in the felucca towards the Cataract, rowing home. This scenery and these rocks never lose in vividness of expression - and the same beautiful afterglow, that I always associate with Assouan.

+

Arrived at 10:30 this morning - having started at 6 o'clock, with the Ammon-Ra and Manhattan within sight behind us - and made 23 miles in 4 hours - having lost sight of both boats. Passed the Gazelle just below Assouan on her way down. Found the "Sesestris", "Istar", "Philetus" and "Thames" here at Elephantine - and now that the "Ammon-Ra" and "Manhattan" have arrived, we make 7 dahabeahs here. The Philetus started this afternoon for the ascent of the Cataract. Sailed in the felucca towards the Cataract, rowing home. This scenery and these rocks never lose in vividness of expression - and the same beautiful afterglow, that I always associate with Assouan.

Feb. 12. -

Went over to Philae by train - Mary and I - with all our entourage of servants and sailors and hampers - Theodore and Clarence following later on their donkeys, in time for lunch. I found Yemma waiting for me, having heard through one of our sailors that we would arrive. He is little grown - and is really a very efficient little guide - Dendowi too, the unapproachable - who appropriated Mary for the day. Newmans not here this year. Mary at once selected an eligible spot for painting and set to work - and after wandering about and photographing all the children and Mohammet the sailor, I established myself in the long colonnade near Mary, out of the sun, and wind - and read - while Jones and Ibrahim got the lunch ready - I made Yemma and the children sing for me - and when I grew tired of their shouting, I begged them to sing me something soft and low - and they sang squatted on the ground about me, the song I always call the cataract song - as one hears it about here all the time - they sang it softly - in a constantly recurring refrain, putting their heads on their hand to express sleep - I asked Yemma what the song was, and they all replied that it was the "Dongola" song - and when I asked what it meant, Yemma replied that it was a slumber song (though of course these are not his words) that the mother was singing the baby to sleep - and was telling him not to be afraid, although there was war and fighting in Dongola, here it was safe and quiet - to sleep and not fear. I thought it very pretty, but I believe one song is used for various words. After lunch we walked about, and climbed to the roof of the temple - where of course the views were delicious - and the birds eye view of the island gave a very good idea of the extent of Capt. Lyons work and explorations of last year. Dr. and Mrs. Grinnell also lunched out there but they were in Pharaoh's Bed. We came home by one of the Cataract boats -bringing Yemma and Dendowi with us to show them the boat - then sent them back. They were such amusing little guests.

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Went over to Philae by train - Mary and I - with all our entourage of servants and sailors and hampers - Theodore and Clarence following later on their donkeys, in time for lunch. I found Yemma waiting for me, having heard through one of our sailors that we would arrive. He is little grown - and is really a very efficient little guide - Dendowi too, the unapproachable - who appropriated Mary for the day. Newmans not here this year. Mary at once selected an eligible spot for painting and set to work - and after wandering about and photographing all the children and Mohammet the sailor, I established myself in the long colonnade near Mary, out of the sun, and wind - and read - while Jones and Ibrahim got the lunch ready - I made Yemma and the children sing for me - and when I grew tired of their shouting, I begged them to sing me something soft and low - and they sang squatted on the ground about me, the song I always call the cataract song - as one hears it about here all the time - they sang it softly - in a constantly recurring refrain, putting their heads on their hand to express sleep - I asked Yemma what the song was, and they all replied that it was the "Dongola" song - and when I asked what it meant, Yemma replied that it was a slumber song (though of course these are not his words) that the mother was singing the baby to sleep - and was telling him not to be afraid, although there was war and fighting in Dongola, here it was safe and quiet - to sleep and not fear. I thought it very pretty, but I believe one song is used for various words. After lunch we walked about, and climbed to the roof of the temple - where of course the views were delicious - and the birds eye view of the island gave a very good idea of the extent of Capt. Lyons work and explorations of last year. Dr. and Mrs. Grinnell also lunched out there but they were in Pharaoh's Bed. We came home by one of the Cataract boats - bringing Yemma and Dendowi with us to show them the boat - then sent them back. They were such amusing little guests.

Feb. 17. -

Before 5 o'clock this morning, I heard the preparations for departure. Our splendid big boom was taken down the day we spent at Philae - and for 2 or 3 days the boat has been getting ready for her downward journey. We have had a lovely week at Assouan - the pleasantest I have ever known - at our same old landing, with the same views before us, we felt quite at home. Assouan has greatly improved since we were here, the river front has been faced with stone, and steps made here and there to the water. The main street following the river bank is now clean, and quite well built, with some good government houses, which with the hotel, give a very bright, clean look. It is very quiet almost no soldiers at the garrison - all having gone to the front. I like the air here better than any place along the river - it is so pure and so entirely from the desert, there being so little vegetation here. A day or two after we arrived, Prof. Sayce and Lord Fitz-Hardinge came to call. The Fitz-Hardinges have the little Thames which they built years ago - and Prof. Sayce on his Istar, was just behind us. A nice, entertaining young fellow with the Fitz-Hardinges, Dr. Bridgman, who found him an enthusiastic gardener, and the only person I ever met who could tell me anything about horticulture in Egypt. We had Prof. Sayce one evening to dinner - and found him very interesting - telling us a great many things we wanted to know. We left Lord Fitz-Hardinge very ill - with threatened pneumonia. He has during the past year succeeded to the title, we having formerly known of him as Hon. Mr. Berkeley. With this title which is one of the oldest in England, dating from the time of King Stephen, he has become owner of Berkeley Castle one of the most interesting historical Castles of England, and also to an income of ￡70,000 a year. He has no children, he and his wife are past 60 - have very quiet tastes - devoted to church work - schools and charities, and terribly depressed by this change of fortune, which breaks up old habits, and entails so much state and responsibility for which they have no liking. The next heir, is Lord Berkeley of Oxford - a man no longer young - no children, and who cares only for chemistry and geology - and devoutly dreads the day when he shall succeed. - Next to him is an unmarried woman not young, the oldest of 9 children of a clergyman, who has just 600 ￡s to spend a year! Prof. Sayce on the Istar, started down at the same time we did this morning - but he told us yesterday, that he would float faster than we could, as his boat is heavy, with a keel - one of the heavy, old fashioned wooden boats, which would not have the ghost of a chance with us in sailing. We have floated against the wind, but with so little progress that at 7 this morning we stopped judging we have made about 15 miles. We are lying in the cove of the bend of the river, at anchor, some distance from shore, with the "Istar" near below, her lights showing hospitably against this desert shore. The night most resplendent, the moon full and the great yellow sand drifts over the mountain sides, glowing with almost as much color as they do by day. I would not have my blinds closed, and slept with all the curtains back from the windows that I might get all the outside beauty possible - and waking several times during the night, I sat up in my bed and looked out at it all. What beautiful, resplendent loneliness!

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Before 5 o'clock this morning, I heard the preparations for departure. Our splendid big boom was taken down the day we spent at Philae - and for 2 or 3 days the boat has been getting ready for her downward journey. We have had a lovely week at Assouan - the pleasantest I have ever known - at our same old landing, with the same views before us, we felt quite at home. Assouan has greatly improved since we were here, the river front has been faced with stone, and steps made here and there to the water. The main street following the river bank is now clean, and quite well built, with some good government houses, which with the hotel, give a very bright, clean look. It is very quiet almost no soldiers at the garrison - all having gone to the front. I like the air here better than any place along the river - it is so pure and so entirely from the desert, there being so little vegetation here. A day or two after we arrived, Prof. Sayce and Lord Fitz-Hardinge came to call. The Fitz-Hardinges have the little Thames which they built years ago - and Prof. Sayce on his Istar, was just behind us. A nice, entertaining young fellow with the Fitz-Hardinges, Dr. Bridgman, who found him an enthusiastic gardener, and the only person I ever met who could tell me anything about horticulture in Egypt. We had Prof. Sayce one evening to dinner - and found him very interesting - telling us a great many things we wanted to know. We left Lord Fitz-Hardinge very ill - with threatened pneumonia. He has during the past year succeeded to the title, we having formerly known of him as Hon. Mr. Berkeley. With this title which is one of the oldest in England, dating from the time of King Stephen, he has become owner of Berkeley Castle one of the most interesting historical Castles of England, and also to an income of ￡70,000 a year. He has no children, he and his wife are past 60 - have very quiet tastes - devoted to church work - schools and charities, and terribly depressed by this change of fortune, which breaks up old habits, and entails so much state and responsibility for which they have no liking. The next heir, is Lord Berkeley of Oxford - a man no longer young - no children, and who cares only for chemistry and geology - and devoutly dreads the day when he shall succeed. - Next to him is an unmarried woman not young, the oldest of 9 children of a clergyman, who has just 600 ￡s to spend a year! Prof. Sayce on the Istar, started down at the same time we did this morning - but he told us yesterday, that he would float faster than we could, as his boat is heavy, with a keel - one of the heavy, old fashioned wooden boats, which would not have the ghost of a chance with us in sailing. We have floated against the wind, but with so little progress that at 7 this morning we stopped judging we have made about 15 miles. We are lying in the cove of the bend of the river, at anchor, some distance from shore, with the "Istar" near below, her lights showing hospitably against this desert shore. The night most resplendent, the moon full and the great yellow sand drifts over the mountain sides, glowing with almost as much color as they do by day. I would not have my blinds closed, and slept with all the curtains back from the windows that I might get all the outside beauty possible - and waking several times during the night, I sat up in my bed and looked out at it all. What beautiful, resplendent loneliness!

Feb. 18. -

We made about 3 miles, starting at half past 6 this morning, but this wretched north wind increasing we gave it up, and lay again in the stream as the shore was so sandy - the Istar almost a mile below us. Prof. Sayce sent over a note, asking us to come to tea - which we did going down in the felucca - very hard rowing against the wind, even with the current, and there really were waves. We had a charming visit Prof. S. Showing us some of his interesting works on Egypt - Belzoni's splendid great volume, with hand painted pictures of the temples and tombs - his rendering of the hieroglyphs, being remarkably accurate, though at that time there was no key to them - and of course he was ignorant of their meaning - and it was like copying any other detail of decoration. The great Napeonic work, of the French Scientific Expedition which I had never seen before - the travels of Ligh, the Englishman a copy of which Howard Amory gave me from his grandfather's library, and others - one an account of travel written by an Italian "del Valle" in 16 . The Istar is a big, old fashioned boat, and looked most comfortable - 20 ft. wide. We and Cooks new boats are 17 ft. This width gives her a beautiful saloon, and a wide corridor to the stern cabin, which is also very large, and fitted as a library - with bookcases to the ceiling - a charming, scholarly room - and here Prof. S. says he really does his work for the whole year. Another wonderful night but the wind as strong as ever - and we are rocking uncomfortably - indeed I never rocked so much on the river as we have been doing all day.

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We made about 3 miles, starting at half past 6 this morning, but this wretched north wind increasing we gave it up, and lay again in the stream as the shore was so sandy - the Istar almost a mile below us. Prof. Sayce sent over a note, asking us to come to tea - which we did going down in the felucca - very hard rowing against the wind, even with the current, and there really were waves. We had a charming visit Prof. S. Showing us some of his interesting works on Egypt - Belzoni's splendid great volume, with hand painted pictures of the temples and tombs - his rendering of the hieroglyphs, being remarkably accurate, though at that time there was no key to them - and of course he was ignorant of their meaning - and it was like copying any other detail of decoration. The great Napeonic work, of the French Scientific Expedition which I had never seen before - the travels of Ligh, the Englishman a copy of which Howard Amory gave me from his grandfather's library, and others - one an account of travel written by an Italian "del Valle" in 16 . The Istar is a big, old fashioned boat, and looked most comfortable - 20 ft. wide. We and Cooks new boats are 17 ft. This width gives her a beautiful saloon, and a wide corridor to the stern cabin, which is also very large, and fitted as a library - with bookcases to the ceiling - a charming, scholarly room - and here Prof. S. says he really does his work for the whole year. Another wonderful night but the wind as strong as ever - and we are rocking uncomfortably - indeed I never rocked so much on the river as we have been doing all day.

Friday. Feb. 19. -

We began the morning very early with a light wind, but it soon changed into a big blow - and we were soon driven upon the lee bank, where we pounded up and down in the sand, until Theodore suggested an anchor put out at the stern when we were more comfortable. I have just finished reading Stevenson's "South-Sea Sketches", and a second reading of his Vailima Letters - and are now going to read Ebb Tide. A great blow going on.

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We began the morning very early with a light wind, but it soon changed into a big blow - and we were soon driven upon the lee bank, where we pounded up and down in the sand, until Theodore suggested an anchor put out at the stern when we were more comfortable. I have just finished reading Stevenson's "South-Sea Sketches", and a second reading of his Vailima Letters - and are now going to read Ebb Tide. A great blow going on.

Feb. 20. -

I had quite an attack of neuralgia or rheumatism in my back and chest last night, which kept me from sleeping - and finding when my morning cup of tea was brought me at 7 o'clock - that the gale was still blowing and the boat rocking, I decided after having my bath to go back to bed, and have my breakfast. Wind continued all day, and weather hopeless. I began reading Prof. Sayce's "Egypt of the Hebrews". Last night we got away from our lee shore, and took refuge on the opposite side of the river, where we are now lying, more quietly. Read aloud a long time in Milner's "England in Egypt".

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I had quite an attack of neuralgia or rheumatism in my back and chest last night, which kept me from sleeping - and finding when my morning cup of tea was brought me at 7 o'clock - that the gale was still blowing and the boat rocking, I decided after having my bath to go back to bed, and have my breakfast. Wind continued all day, and weather hopeless. I began reading Prof. Sayce's "Egypt of the Hebrews". Last night we got away from our lee shore, and took refuge on the opposite side of the river, where we are now lying, more quietly. Read aloud a long time in Milner's "England in Egypt".

Feb. 21. Sexagesima Sunday. -

The men rowed, or we floated all the latter part of the night until 7 this morning, when I saw Kom Ombo directly in front of us. A fine all around view of it, perched so high on its cliff - we pulled up soon, and after breakfast went up to the Temple - it is charming in its height, though not specially interesting; and is certainly very much swept and garnished. The wind falling, we decided not to linger, but pushed off, just as Gage's Steamer "Memphis" was coming up to her landing. Passed the Istar lying by a little below Kom Ombo. This is our 5th day from Assouan, and we have only covered 29 miles.

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The men rowed, or we floated all the latter part of the night until 7 this morning, when I saw Kom Ombo directly in front of us. A fine all around view of it, perched so high on its cliff - we pulled up soon, and after breakfast went up to the Temple - it is charming in its height, though not specially interesting; and is certainly very much swept and garnished. The wind falling, we decided not to linger, but pushed off, just as Gage's Steamer "Memphis" was coming up to her landing. Passed the Istar lying by a little below Kom Ombo. This is our 5th day from Assouan, and we have only covered 29 miles.

Feb. 22. Monday. -

We were off before 6 o'clock this morning - rowing - and in the face of the north wind which still holds with more or less fitfullness - we passed Silsilis about 3 o'clock - but did not stop, as we are so belated. About an hour afterwards we had gained very much upon the Istar - and our men were pulling lustily - when the order from the Rais was suddenly given to stop, and in a moment after, we went rather hard upon a sand bank - which delayed us about an hour - when we went on until 7 o'clock - apparently by the light of Venus, almost as good as a moon. We tied up at a pleasant bank under some scent trees, having come between 3 and 4 miles below Silsilis - making today 15 miles. It is so easy to tell who is keeping Ramadan. Quite a proportion of crew are and they are so solemn and melancholy. Our nice Mathar, the 2d captain, hasn't even a smile - Rais Fuli, and he, and 5 or 6 of the crew, are carefully keeping it.

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We were off before 6 o'clock this morning - rowing - and in the face of the north wind which still holds with more or less fitfullness - we passed Silsilis about 3 o'clock - but did not stop, as we are so belated. About an hour afterwards we had gained very much upon the Istar - and our men were pulling lustily - when the order from the Rais was suddenly given to stop, and in a moment after, we went rather hard upon a sand bank - which delayed us about an hour - when we went on until 7 o'clock - apparently by the light of Venus, almost as good as a moon. We tied up at a pleasant bank under some scent trees, having come between 3 and 4 miles below Silsilis - making today 15 miles. It is so easy to tell who is keeping Ramadan. Quite a proportion of crew are and they are so solemn and melancholy. Our nice Mathar, the 2d captain, hasn't even a smile - Rais Fuli, and he, and 5 or 6 of the crew, are carefully keeping it.

Tuesday Feb. 23. -

We have allowed ourselves just a month from today to reach Cairo - there will be so much to do there about changes in the boat, and getting her ready to leave her, that the 10 days between March 23 and April 3d when we leave for Hrindisi will not be more than we need. But this north wind must cease blowing! This morning we started out before 6 - and when Ainely came to my room, she reported the Istar some distance in advance of us, and another dahabeah. We are wondering if it can be the Gazelle, which left Assouan, the day we arrived. Yesterday the Nephtis passed up, with the Duke of Hamilton on board. His own flag I suppose at the mast, yellow, with a grimping lion - very effective. He has only lately succeeded to the title we were told - and jumped from a lieutenant in the navy to his present titles and possessions. A pleasant thing. Reached El Kab - 36 miles.

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We have allowed ourselves just a month from today to reach Cairo - there will be so much to do there about changes in the boat, and getting her ready to leave her, that the 10 days between March 23 and April 3d when we leave for Brindisi will not be more than we need. But this north wind must cease blowing! This morning we started out before 6 - and when Ainely came to my room, she reported the Istar some distance in advance of us, and another dahabeah. We are wondering if it can be the Gazelle, which left Assouan, the day we arrived. Yesterday the Nephtis passed up, with the Duke of Hamilton on board. His own flag I suppose at the mast, yellow, with a grimping lion - very effective. He has only lately succeeded to the title we were told - and jumped from a lieutenant in the navy to his present titles and possessions. A pleasant thing. Reached El Kab - 36 miles.