Horizontal Drawers for the COM-8 CSR Frame

Drawers for the horizontal body panels. I designed this for the COM-8 CSR frame. It can be mounted to the frame, or to the skins.

I have included the STL's and the Fusion 360 file that you can open and edit anything you'd like. Each drawer is split up into 4 parts.

1. Drawer Holder
2. Drawer Body
3. Drawer Servo Arm Attachment
4. Skin Mount(Optional if you are mounting it to the skin instead of the frame)

Hardware Needed:

1. ES08MA II Servos - Qty:4 - Link (HITEC HS65 will also work but the standard servo arms that come with them are not long enough. You will need to get longer arms.Somthing longer than 20mm. The hole needs to be about 18mm from the pivot point.)
2. #0-80 5/8" Screws - Qty: 4
3. #0-80 nuts - Qty: 8
4. M3x10mm screws - Qty: 6
5. M3 pressed/heated inserts - Qty: 6 (I also use thse to mount to my frame so I used 11 in total)
6. 10x5x2mm neodynium N48 Magnets - Qty: 88 - Link
7. M3x10 tapered screws - Qty: 5 (Only used if you are using the pressed inserts to mount the drawers to the frame)
8. #4-40 1/2" tapered flat head screw (optional for skirt mount) - Qty 7
9. #4-40 Lock nuts (optional for skirt mount) - Qty 7

I cut the longest servo arm that came with the servos. This is the doublesided one. I cut one side of it off. I then drilled out the middle hole with a 1/16" drill bit to allow the bolt to go through.

I put 2 nuts on each of the #0-80 screws and tightened them against each other to prevent the nut from coming loose.

I used a soldering iron and pressed in the inserts to the side of each holder.

I then sanded the sides of each of the holders to make sure they sit flush with each other. Sometimes the pressing of the inserts leaves extra plastic stickup up and any if the sides aren't completely flush, it can cause the alignment to be off.

You can then screw them together with the M3x10 screws(Not the tapered head ones)

I sanded the bottom of the drawrers and the top of the holders where the drawers sit on and slide to make sure the drawers slide smoothly. With 3D printing, the top layer is rarely very smooth and likely has some variations.

I sanded the bottom of the drawer guides on the holders that stick out to prevent the drawers from lifting up.

THere are holes in the drawers behind the magnets for 2 purposes. 1 is to allow you to get the magnets out if you need to by poking it out from the back, and the 2nd is to allow a place for the glue to go when gluing in the magnets. I found it easier to put all the magnets in the servo arm attachement first. Then I placed the magnets for the body onto the magnets in the servo arm attachment and push them in into the body and twised the servo arm attachment away leaving the magnets with the correct polarity in the drawer body. This helped not only assure the polarity is correct, but also helped me insert the magnets without twisting them.

Installing on the frame

This seciton is going to sound like I'm rambling on, but this is the way I did it.

I started off by removing the skins and all the utility arm risers/center vent holder from the frame. This left me with enough room to get a drill in there later. I then put th skins back on and I measured about .25" spacing from the outer skin and cut that out on each of the 4 drawer openeings to start. I then took the skins off and cut out that opening. I installed the skins again and clamped in the assembled drawer mounts, without the drawers in them. I tried to align it up as best I could to allow it to where I want it to. There is a little room for side to side alignement. I then filed the openings until I could slide the drawers in and out without hitting anything. Once that was done, took off the skins again and drilled a 1/16" pilot hole through the frame and into the part of the drawer holder that toughes the middle ring of the frame. I then took off the drawer assembly and drill a larger hole to allow me to press in the heated inserts. I then also drill out the hole in the frame to allow an M3 screw to go through it, then I tapered that hole in the frame to allow the screw to sit fluch with the frame. Once that's all done, you can put it all back together. You want to put the utility arm carrier/Center vent holder back first since the screws will not be accesible once the drawer assembly is on.

Thanks to Doc Snyder and Matt Hobbs for the inspiration for these drawers.